






V,** /^fe'- V.c-^* -'^Va- -e. ^«'»^ 





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LIFE 



EXPLORATIONS AND PUBLIC SERVICES 



OF 



JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. 



BY 



CHARLES AVENTWORTII UPHAM. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 



For thou wert of the mountains; they proclaim 
The ererlasting creed of liberty. 

B&7AKT. 



FIFTIETH THOUSAND. X^, ^ ^ 

BOSTON: 7-:^^i--^-' 

TICKNOR AND FIELDS. 

M.DOOC.LYI. 







%■ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by Ticknob 
AND Fields, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District 
of Massachusetts. 



EmiRSIDB, cambkidqe: 

BTEREOTYPKD AND PRINTED 8T 

a. 0. HODOUTON AND COMPANT. 



EDUCATION. 13 

ca Minora, about the half of the first volume of 
Graica Majora, and four books of Homer's Iliad. 
And whatever he read, he retained. It seemed 
to me, in fact, as if he learned by mere intuition. 
I was myself utterly astonished, and at the same 
time delighted with his progress. I have hinted 
that he was designed for the Church, but when 
I contemplated his bold, fearless disposition, his 
powerful inventive genius, his admiration of war- 
like exploits, and his love of heroic and adven- 
turous deeds, I did not think it likely he would be 
a minister of the Gospel. He had not, however, 
the least appearance of any vice whatever. On 
the contrary, he was always the very pattern of 
virtue and modesty. I could not help loving 
him, so much did he captivate me by his gentle- 
manly conduct and extraordinary progress. It 
was easy to see that he would one day i»aise 
himself to eminence. Whilst under my instruc- 
tion, I discovered his early genius for poetic 
composition in the following manner. When 
the Greek class read the account that Herodotus 
gives of the battle of Marathon, the bravery of 
Miltiades and his ten thousand Greeks raised his 
patriotic feelings to enthusiasm, and drew from 
him expressions which I thought were embodied, 
a few days afterward, in some well-written 
verses in a Charleston paper, on that far-famed 
unequal but successful conflict against tyranny 
and oppression ; and suspecting my talented 



14 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

scholar to be the author, I went to his desk and 
asked him if he did not write them ; and hesitat- 
ing at first, rather blushingly, he confessed he 
did. I then said : * I knew you could do such 
things, and suppose you have some such pieces 
by you, which I should like to see. Do bring 
them to me.' He consented, and in a day or 
two brought me a number, which I read with 
pleasure and admiration at the strong marks of 
genius stamped on all, but here and there requir- 
ing, as I thought, a very slight amendment. 

" I had hired a mathematician to teach both 
him and myself, (for I could not then teach that 
science,) and in this he also made such wonder- 
ful progress, that at the end of one year he en- 
tered the Junior Class in Charleston College 
triumphantly, while others who had been study- 
ing four years and more, were obliged to take 
the Sophomore Class. About the end of the 
year 1828, I left Charleston. After that he 
taught Mathematics for some time. Ills career 
afterwards has been one of heroic adventure, of 
hair-breadth escapes by flood and field, and of 
scientific explorations, which have made him 
world-wide renowned. In a letter I received 
from him very lately, he expresses his gratitude to 
me in the following words : ^ I am very far from 
either forgetting you or neglecting you, or in any 
way losing the old regard I had for you. There 
is no time to which I go back with more pleasure 




J. tlo-f£A^ Se 381 2 W- _ 'V 



PREFACE. 



The second and third chapters of this work, em- 
bracing the period covered by the first two expeditions, 
have substantially the value and authority of an auto- 
biography. Fremont tells his own story, in passages 
extracted from his Reports. This part of the volume 
gives, with the accompanying illustrations, a perfectly 
authentic account — as good as can be found — of the 
interior of the North American continent, its great 
features, and the races that occupy it. The Rocky 
Mountains, the parallel range of the Sierra Nevada, 
with the Basin — so full of strange interest, and not yet 
wholly made known to geography — between them ; and 
the Pacific regions, are here described, in his own 
fresh and effective style, by their explorer. 

The topics of the work, generally, are regarded by 
the writer as having an interest and dignity entirely 
independent of any of the excitements and poHtical 
operations of the day ; and it has been prepared with 

1* 



VI PKEFACE. 

no other feeling than to present what men of all parties 
and sections will hereafter, at all times, recognize as a 
true picture of a character and a life that have justly- 
attracted attention, and will occupy a permanent place 
in our annals. 

The facts have been, in part, gathered from public 
records, and sources open to all. Many of the details 
and dates, with some very interesting documents, were 
obtained from Col. Fremont. But for all the senti- 
ments and opinions advanced in the work, the writer is 
wholly and exclusively responsible. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Parentage — Education — Early History 9 

CHAPTER n. 

First Expedition — Prairies — Fort Laramie — South Pass 
— Rocky Mountains — Platte or Nebraska River 23- 

CHAPTER m. 

Second Expedition — Kansas — Salt Lake — Columbia 
River — Central Basin — Sierra Nevada — California — 
Kat Carson — Wahsatch Mountains — Three Parks. ... 107 

CHAPTER IV. 

Third Expedition — Arkansas — Great Basin — Hawks 
Peak on the Sierra — Tlamath Lake 208 

CHAPTER V. 

North California — Bear War — Conquest of California 
— Wah-lah-wah-lah Indians — Insurrection — California 
Battalion — Insurgents surrender to Fremont — Capitu- 
lation of Cowenga 226 



VIII CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Arrival of General Kearney — Difficulties between Stock- 
ton and Kearney — Fremont's Arrest — Court-Martial . 252 

CHAPTER YH. 

Fourth Expedition — Great Sufferings — Mariposa Pur- 
chase — Constitution of California 273 

CHAPTER Vm. 
Fremont a Senator of the United States 301 

CHAPTER IX. 

Engages in Cattle Business in California — Gold discov- 
ery — Visit to England and France — Imprisonment in 
London — Fifth Expedition — Pacific Railroad — Mari- 
posa Title finally confirmed by Supreme Court of the 
United States 321 

CHAPTER X. 
General Remarks 336 



LIFE OF FREMONT. 



CHAPTER I. 

PARENTAGE EDUCATION EARLY HISTORY. 

John Charles Fremont was born on the 
21st of January, 1813. The usual residence of 
his family was in the city of Charleston, South 
Carolina. His father, who bore the same name, 
was deeply interested in studying the character 
and condition of the North American Indians, 
and spent the last years of his life in visiting 
many of their tribes. On these excursions he 
took his family with him, and moved slowly, 
stopping leisurely at the larger towns and points 
of chief interest. It was on one of these tours 
that the subject of this memoir was born, in the 
city of Savannah. The father, following his 
favorite pursuit, subsequently visited with his 
family, and remained, for greater or less periods 
of time, in various parts of Georgia, Tennessee, 

(9) 



10 ' LIFE OF FREMONT. 

the Carolinas, and Virginia. The mother, cele- 
brated for her beauty and worth, was Ann Bev- 
erly Whiting, a native of Gloucester County, 
Virginia. Her family was connected with many 
distinguished names, including that of Wash- 
ington, to whom she was nearly related. 

The father died in 1818, leaving a widow and 
three children, two sons and a daughter. Col. 
Fremont is the sole survivor of his family, with 
the exception of an orphan niece, the daughter 
of his brother, who since nine years of age has 
been a member of his family. The mother died 
in 1847, at Aiken, South Carolina ; the brother 
and sister some years before. 

After the death of her husband, Mrs. Fremont 
remained some time in Virginia, where John 
Charles received the rudiments of his education, 
at Dinwiddle Court House. She then removed 
back to Charleston, where she fixed her residence, 
and the education of her children was continued. 
Although born and reared in affluence, and ac- 
customed to the free and liberal expenditures of 
the hospitable and generous class to which her 
Virginia relatives belonged, she was left, with 
her young charge, in very limited circumstances, 
but, fortunately in a community which appre- 
ciated her claims to respect, sympathy, and all 
kind offices. She is still remembered by many 
faithful friends in Charleston, as a lady of great 
piety and worth. 



EDUCATION. 11 

When John Charles was about thirteen years 
of age, John W. Mitchell, Esq., a lawyer in 
Charleston, a gentleman of great respectability, 
in no way connected with the family, but actu- 
ated only by benevolent impulses, although per- 
ceiving, it is not unlikely, the bright promise of 
the lad, took him into his office for the purpose 
of making a lawyer of him. At a subsequent 
period, it became a favorite object of Mr. Mitch- 
ell, to have him prepare himself for the ministry 
of the church. 

IVIr. Mitchell placed him under the tuition of 
Dr. Roberton, a learned instructor at that time in 
Charleston, and now engaged in the same employ- 
ment in Philadelphia. Dr. Roberton published 
an edition of Xenophon's Anabasis, in 1850. In 
the preface he gives the following account of 
the youth whom Mr. Mitchell placed in his 
hands. It is a most interesting document, and 
shows how the character, which Col. Fremont 
has ever exhibited, was formed, and illustrates 
the early development of the energy and talent 
that have borne him on through life : — 

" For your further encouragement, I will here 
relate a very remarkable instance of patient dili- 
gence and indomitable perseverance. 

" In the year 1827, after I had returned to 
Charleston from Scotland, and my classes were 
going on, a very respectable lawyer came to my 
school, I think some time in the month of Octo- 



12 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

ber, with a youth, apparently about sixteen, or 
perhaps not so much, (fourteen,) of middle size, 
graceful in manners, rather slender, but well 
formed, and, upon the whole, what I should call 
handsome; of a keen, piercing eye, and a noble 
forehead, seemingly the very seat of genius. The 
gentleman stated that he found him given to 
study, that he had been about three weeks 
learning the Latin rudiments, and (hoping, I 
suppose, to turn the youth's attention from the 
law to the ministry,) had resolved to place him 
under my care for the purpose of learning 
Greek, Latin, and Mathematics, sufficient to 
enter Charleston College. I very gladly received 
him, for I immediately perceived he was no 
common youth, as intelligence beamed in his 
dark eye, and shone brightly on his countenance, 
indicating great ability, and an assurance of his 
future progress. I at once put him in the high- 
est class, just beginning to read Cesar's Com- 
mentaries, and, although at first inferior, his 
prodigious memory and enthusiastic application 
soon enabled him to surpass the best. He began 
Greek at the same time, and read with some 
who had been long at it, in which he also soon 
excelled. In short, in the space of one year he 
had with the class, and at odd hours with my- 
self, read four books of Csesar, Cornelius Nepos, 
Sallust, six books of Virgil, nearly all Horace, 
and two books of Livy ; and in Greek, all Gras- 



EDUCATION — EARLY HISTORY. 15 

than that spent with you, for there was no time 
so thoroughly well spent ; and of any thing I may 
have learned, I remember nothing so well, and so 
distinctly, as what I acquired with you.' Here I 
cannot help saying that the merit was almost all 
his own. It is true that I encouraged and 
cheered him on, but if the soil into which I put 
the seeds of learning had not been of the richest 
quality, they would never have sprung up to a 
hundred-fold in the full ear. Such, my young 
friends, is but an imperfect sketch of my once 
beloved and favorite pupil, now a senator, and 
who may yet rise to be at the head of this gi-eat 
and growing Republic. My prayer is that he 
may ever be opposed to war, injustice, and op- 
pression of every Idnd, a blessing to his country 
and an example of every noble virtue to the 
whole world." 

He was confirmed, in his seventeenth year, as 
a member of the Protestant Episcopal Church, 
in which communion he was brought up, and 
continues to this day. Immediately after leav- 
ing college, which was before the close of the 
academic term, he opened a school in Charles- 
ton. At such hours as he could command, 
he attended in other schools to instruct classes 
in mathematics ; and, in addition to all these 
labors, took charge, for a considerable period, of 
an evening school. Persons who have been en- 
gaged in similar pursuits can appreciate how ex* 



16 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

hausting such continuous labors must have been, 
So early did he develop the indefatigable energy 
and power of endurance that have marked his 
whole subsequent life. While engaged in these 
humble and persevering toils, for the support of 
his widowed mother and her family, his merits 
were brought into particular notice by the fol- 
lowing circumstance : — 

It became necessary, in the prosecution of 
a lawsuit, in which a certain rice-field in the 
neighborhood of Charleston was involved, to 
have it carefully and accurately surveyed. It 
was at the height of the sickly season, and the 
locality was so particularly dangerous from that 
cause, that difficulty was experienced in induc- 
ing surveyors to go upon it. The mathematical 
attainments of young Fremont happened to be 
brought to the knowledge of the party concerned. 
He promptly agreed to perform the service. The 
courage with which he engaged in the enter- 
prise, and the scientific skill and clerical neat- 
ness with which he executed it, attracted the 
attention and admiration of so many persons of 
influence, that he was at once secure of employ- 
ment and patronage. 

Soon after this, he was engaged in the survey 
of tlie railroad leading from Charleston to Ham- 
burg. About the beginning of the year 1833, 
the sloop of war Natchez arrived in Charleston, 
to enforce the proclamation of President Jack- 



EARLY HISTORY. 17 

son. By the influence of Mr. Poinsett, after- 
wards Secretary of War, and others friendly to 
his family, young Fremont obtained the situa- 
tion of teacjjer of mathematics and instructor 
of the midshipmen on board the' Natchez, and 
sailed in her, in that capacity, to the Brazilian 
station. At the termination of her cruise, she 
returned to New York. After appearing before 
a board of examiners, in Baltimore, Mr. Fremont 
was regularly commissioned as a professor of 
mathematics in the navy, and assigned to the 
Frigate Independence. The distinguished man- 
ner in which he passed the examination coming 
to the ears of the Faculty of the College in 
Charleston, they instantly conferred upon him 
both the academic degrees, of Bachelor and 
Master of Arts. 

An Act of Congress, passed on the 30th of 
April, 1824, authorized the President of the 
United States " to employ two or more skilful 
civil engineers, and such officers of the corps of 
engineers, or who may be detailed to do duty 
v/ith that corps, as he may think proper, to 
cause the necessary surveys, plans, and estimates 
to be made of the routes of such roads and ca- 
nals as he may deem of national importance, in 
a commercial or military point of view, or for 
the transportation of the public mail." Under 
this act, Mr. Fremont received his first appoint- 
ment in that branch of the public service, where 



18 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

SO signal distinction and wide renown were 
in reserve for him. President Jackson selected 
him to be .associated as a civil engineer with 
Captain Williams of the topogrgtphical corps 
of engineers, — an officer of distinguished merit, 
and who will ever be remembered as one of the 
heroes that fell at Monterey, — in making a 
survey, plans, and estimates of the route of the 
Charleston and Cincinnati Kailroad. Resign- 
ing his commission in the navy, he repaired 
with alacrity to his chosen work. The portion 
of the route assigned him was the mountain 
regions of the Carolinas and Tennessee, and he 
there commenced those observations and ex- 
plorations which have since extended over such 
immense regions. The winter of 1837 and 1838 
was spent also under Captain Williams, in a 
survey of the Cherokee country, in conducting 
the field-work, and participating in preparing 
the military map which was the result of the 
expedition. 

During the administration of Mr. Van Buren, 
an act was passed aijd approved by him >9n the 
5th of July, 1838, to increase the military estab- 
lishment. The fourth section required that the 
corps of topographical engineers should be or- 
ganized and increased, by regular promotion in 
the same, so that the said corps should consist 
of one colonel, one lieutenant-colonel, four ma- 
jors, ten captains, ten first lieutenants, and ten 



EAKLY HISTORY. 19 

second lieutenants ; and the fifth section or- 
dained that the vacancies created by said 
organization, over and above those which could 
be filled by the corps itself, should be taken 
from the army, and from such as it may be 
deemed advisable of the civil engineers em- 
ployed under the act of the 30th of April, 1824. 

This latter clause let in Mr. Fremont. It was 
probably designed to do so, as his friend and 
patron, Mr. Poinsett, was then Secretary of War. 
He was accordingly commissioned, two days 
afterwards, on the 7th of July, 1838, as a sec- 
ond lieutenant of the topographical engineers. 
About this time, he had been transferred to the 
theatre of his fame, the field where his great 
work in life was to be done. 

A thorough exploration and survey of the 
vast region north of the Missouri, and west of 
the Mississippi, was deemed by the administra- 
tion to, have become necessary, and arrange- 
ments were made to accomplish it. Mr. Nicho- 
let, a learned and distinguished astronomer, and 
man of science, a member of the French Acad- 
emy, and a gentleman of great general accom- 
plishments and worth, then residing in St. Louis, 
was appointed to conduct the service. He re- 
quested to have associated with him a younger 
person, to act as his assistant, with the requisite 
qualities of science, energy, courage, and enter- 
prise. Mr. Poinsett offered the situation to 



20 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Lieutenant Fremont, who promptly and gladly 
accepted it. The years 1838 and 1839 were 
spent in this field, and the whole country was 
explored up to the British line. Mr. Fremont 
participated zealously in the work, and in mak- 
ing the map of that region, which was presented 
to the government by ]\Ir. Nicholei In the 
course of these surveys there were seventy thou- 
sand meteorological observations, and the topog- 
raphy was minutely determined by the proper 
calculations at innumerable points. The map 
thus constructed has been the source from which 
all subsequent ones relating to that region have 
been derived. 

In the spring of 1841, Lieutenant Fremont 
went in command of a small party to survey 
the Desmoines River. 

On the 19th of October, 1841, he was mamed> 
in the city of "Washington, to Jessie, daughter 
of the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, a Senator in 
Congress from the State of Missouri. It is not 
at all strange that objections Avere made to the 
match. A second lieutenant, — in a corps where 
promotion is very slow, and having no other 
means of support than the unreasonably small 
pay allowed to subordinate officers in our army, 
" — surely had nothing to recommend him, in 
the way of worldly goods or prospects. He 
had not then commenced his great career, — no 
world-wide lustre had begun to emblazon his 



EARLY niSTOKY. 21 

name, — no perilous adventures, on a broad 
theatre, had drawn out, to general view, his 
heroic qualities. But the instincts of a pure 
heart are often the truest wisdom ; and he was 
preferred before ail that fashion, wealth, and 
great station could offer. 

All know the pride and fidelity with which 
Colonel Benton has, ever since that time, cher- 
ished the character of his son-in-law. Bereft of 
his own sons by early death, his heart has gath- 
ered its affections around Fremont. He has 
four daughters, all living, and all married. IVIrs. 
Fremont is the second daughter, and was born 
in Virginia, at the family seat of her grandfather, 
Colonel McDowell, on the 31st May, 1824. All 
that it would be proper to say of her in this 
work, is all that could be said of any woman, — 
she is worthy of her origin, and of her lot. 

We have now reached the point at which 
Mr. Fremont arrested that universal attention 
which has followed him ever since. His two 
first expeditions, on a large scale, will be related 
mostly in his own language, in consecutive ex- 
tracts from his Reports published by Congress. 
The first Report was republished, together with 
the second, by an order of the Senate of the 
United States, passed March 3, 1845. These 
Reports at once established his reputation, as a 
scientific explorer and heroic adventurer, through- 
out the world. Large editions of them have been 



22 LIFE OE FREMONT. 

reprinted by booksellers in this country, and also 
in England, and they have been noticed with 
the highest commendation in the various literary 
and scientific journals, at home and abroad. 
The Smithsonian Institution inserted among 
its publications a description of the plants col- 
lected by him, in California, prepared by John 
Torrey, F. L. S., with illustrative plates, enti- 
tled " Plantce Fremontiance.''^ Nothing has con- 
tributed more to the honor of our country than 
the manner in which its gallant and enlightened 
officers have conducted various exploring expe- 
ditions, and prepared reports of them. A rich 
and interesting body of national literature has 
thus been accumulated. Fremont's Reports of 
his first and second expeditions, at once gave 
him an European reputation, which has not yet 
been rivalled. When the Reports of the last 
three expeditions are given to the world, it will 
be found that his explorations cover mor,e 
ground, and bring a larger contribution to geo- 
graphical and other science, than can be claimed 
for any othernameinour annals. 

Of the literary style of these Reports, the 
reader will be able to judge from the following 
chapters 



CHAPTER 11. 

FIRST EXPEDITION PRAIRIES FORT LARAMIE 

SOUTH PASS ROCKY MOUNTAINS PLATTE OR 

NEBRASKA RIVER. 

The first expedition of Lieutenant Fremont, 
in command of an exploring party on a large 
scale, occupied the summer of 1842, and embraced 
the country between the Missouri River and the 
Rocky Mountains, along the line of the Kansas, 
and the Great Platte, or Nebraska, river. Hav- 
ing received his insti'uctions from Colonel J. J. 
Abert, chief of the corps of topographical en- 
gineers, he left Washington City on the 2d of 
May, and arrived at St. Louis, by way of New 
York, on the 22d of that month, where he made 
the principal preparations for the service. Hav- 
ing ascended the Missouri in a steamboat, he 
proceeded to Choteau's Landing, on the right 
bank of the Kansas, about ten miles from its 
mouth, and six miles beyond the western boiuid- 
ary of Missouri. Here the final arrangements 
were completed, every requisite point provided 

(23) 



24 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

for, and the expedition organized into working 
order and shape. 

The party, which had been collected in St. 
Louis, consisted principally of Creole and Cana- 
dian voyageurs, who had been trained to prairie 
life and^wilderness adventures in the employ of 
fur companies in the Indian country, and con-, 
sisted of twenty-two men. Besides them, there 
was Mr. Charles Preuss, a native of Germany, 
who had been thoroughly educated to sketch the 
topographical features of a country, and to whose 
extraordinary skill and enthusiasm, in the prose- 
cution of the service assigned him. Col. Fremont 
has always borne the most affectionate and grate- 
ful testimony. Mr. L. Maxwell was engaged as 
a hunter, and Christopher Carson, celebrated the 
world over for his genius and exploits as a moun- 
taineer, and everywhere known as Kit Carson, 
was the guide of the expedition. Henry Brant, 
a son of Col. J. H. Brant, of St. Louis, nineteen 
years of age, and Randolph, a son of Col. Benton, 
twelve years of age, also accompanied it. The 
latter, of course, was especially under the charge 
of Mr. Fremont. Such an experience, it was 
thought, would be favorable to his physical and 
mental development ; and it was justly sup- 
posed that an interesting lad of that age would 
be a source of amusement and an object of at- 
tachment to men, v/hose mode of life had given 
them but little opportunity to enjoy the society 



FIRST EXPEDITION. 25 

of such a companion. Randolph was undoubt- 
edly the pet and the pride of the party. Eight 
men conducted as many carts, which contained 
stores, baggage, and instruments, and were each 
drawn by two mules. All the rest were well 
armed and mounted. A few extra horses, and 
four oxen, as an addition to the stock of pro- 
visions, completed the train. It started on the 
morning of Friday, the 10th of June. Mr. Cho- 
teau accompanied the party until they met an 
Indian, whom he had engaged to conduct them 
some forty miles, thus giving them a fair start. 

It will be well, before entering upon a detail 
of the adventures of the expedition in its route, 
to describe the general regulations and ordinary 
arrangements, in travel and in camp, from day 
to day. 

" During our journey, it was the customary 
practice to encamp an hour or two before sunset, 
when the carts were disposed so as to form a sort 
of barricade around a circle some eighty yards in 
diameter. The tents were pitched, and the horses 
hobbled and turned loose to graze ; and but a 
few minutes elapsed before the cooks of the 
messes, of which there were four, were busily 
engaged • in preparing the evening meal. At 
nightfall the horses, mules, and oxen were driven 
hi, and picketed — that is, secured by a halter, of 
which one end was tied to a small steel-shod 
picket, and driven into the ground; the halter 
3 



26 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

being twenty or thirty feet long, which enabled 
them to obtain a little food during the night. 
When we had reached a part of the country 
where such a precaution became necessary, the 
carts being regularly arranged for defending the 
camp, guard was mounted at eight o'clock, con- 
sisting of three men, who were relieved every 
two hours ; the morning watch being horse guard 
for the day. At daybreak the camp was roused, 
the animals turned loose to graze, and breakfast 
generally over between six and seven o'clock, 
when we resumed our march, making regularly 
a halt at noon for one or two hours. Such was 
usually the order of the day, except when acci- 
dent of countiy forced a variation ; which, how- 
ever, happened but rarely." 

The party was now fairly afloat on the bound- 
less ocean of prairie, the Indian guide had left, 
and the excitements and perils of the service 
began. 

" We reached the ford of the Kansas late in 
the afternoon of the 14th, where the river was 
two hundred and thirty yards wide, and com- 
menced immediately preparations for crossing. 
I had expected to find the river fordable ; but it 
had been swollen by the late rains, and was 
sweeping by with an angry current, yellow and 
turbid as the Missouri. Up to this point, the 
road we had travelled was a remarkably fine one, 
well beaten, and level — the usual road of a 



FIRST EXPEDITION. 27 

prairie country. By our route, the ford was one 
hundred miles from the mouth of the Kansas 
River. Several mounted men led the way into 
the stream, to swim across. The animals were 
driven in after them, and in a few minutes all 
had reached the opposite bank in safety, with the 
exception of the oxen, which swam some dis- 
tance down the river, and, returning to the right 
bank, were not got over until the next morning. 
In the mean time, the carts had been unloaded 
and dismantled, and an India-rubber boat, which 
I had brought with me for the survey of the Platte 
River, placed in the water. The boat was twenty 
feet long, and five broad, and on it were placed 
the body and wheels of a cart, with the load 
belonging to it, and three men with paddles. 

" The velocity of the current, and the inconven- 
ient freight, rendering it difficult to be managed, 
Basil Lajeunesse, one of our best swimmers, took 
in his teeth a line attached to the boat, and swam 
ahead in order to reach a footing as soon as pos- 
sible, and assist in drawing her over. In this 
manner, six passages had been successfully made, 
and as many carts with their contents, and a 
greater portion of the party deposited on the left 
bank ; but night was drawing near, and, in our 
anxiety to have all over before the darkness 
closed in, I put upon the boat the remaining two 
carts, with thek accompanying load. The man 
at tlie helm was timid on water, and, in his alarm, 



28 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

capsized the boat. Carts, barrels, boxes, and 
bales, were in a moment floating down the cur- 
rent ; but all the men who were on the shore 
jumped into the water, without stopping to think 
if they could swim, and almost everything — even 
heavy articles, such as guns and lead — was 
recovered. 

" Two of the men, who could not swim, came 
nigh being drowned, and all the sugar belonging 
to one of the messes wasted its sweets on the 
muddy waters ; but our heaviest loss was a bag 
of coffee, which contained nearly all our provision. 
It was a loss which none but a traveller in a 
strange and inhospitable country can appreciate ; 
and often afterward, when excessive toil and long 
marching had overcome us with fatigue and 
weariness, we remembered and mourned over 
our loss in the Kansas. Carson and Maxwell 
had been much in the water yesterday, and both, 
in consequence, were taken ill." 

The various aspects and incidents of prairie 
scenery and life are presented with great felicity 
of description. The following passages will be 
read with interest. They had met a party of 
trappers belonging to the American Fur Com- 
pany :— 

" We laughed then at their forlorn and vaga- 
bond appearance, and in our turn, a month or 
two afterward, furnished the same occasion for 
merriment to others. Even their stock of tobac- 



THE PRAIRIE. 29 

CO, that sine qua non of a voyageur, without 
which the night fire is gloomy, was entirely ex- 
hausted. However, we shortened their home- 
ward journey by a small supply of our own provis- 
ion. They gave us the welcome intelligence that 
the buffalo were abundant some two days' march 
in advance, and made us a present' of some choice 
pieces, which were a very acceptable change 
from our salt pork. In the interchange of news, 
and the renewal of old acquaintanceships, we 
found wherewithal to fill a busy hour ; then we 
mounted our horses, and they shouldered their 
packs, and we shook hands and parted. Among 
them, I had found an old companion on the 
northern prairie, a hardened and hardly served 
veteran of the mountains, w^ho had been as 
much hacked and scarred as an old inoustache of 
Napoleon's " old guard." He flourished in the 
sobriquet of La Tulipe, and his real name I never 
knew. Finding that Tie was going to the States 
only because his company was bound in that 
dkection, and that he was rather more willing to 
return with me, I took him again into my ser- 
vice." 

La Tulipe, so graphically described by Fre- 
mont in the foregoing extract, belongs to a class 
of men who add much to the romantic interest 
of the great * interior wilds of our continent. 
The sailors of the prairie, their only home is 
9n those mighty wastes, their life is spent in 
3* 



30 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

wandering from point to point, their eyes delight 
in the boundless landscape, their hearts in scenes 
of peril and adventure. They are as completely 
severed from the ties of locality, and the re- 
straints of ordinary life, as the sailor ; they are 
as familiar with physical suffering, and with ex- 
posure to storm and death, as free from care, and 
as brave, generous, and noble-hearted. 

" At our evening camp, about sunset, three 
figures were discovered approaching, which our 
glasses made out to be Indians. They proved 
to be Cheyennes — -two men, and a boy of thir- 
teen. About a month since, they had left their 
people on the south fork of the river, some three 
hundred miles to the westward, and a party of 
only four in number had been to the Pawnee 
villages on a horse-stealing excursion, from which 
they were returning unsuccessful. They were 
miserably mounted on wild horses from the 
Arkansas plains, and had rfo other weapons than 
bows and long spears ; and had they been dis- 
covered by the Pawnees, could not, by any 
possibility, have escaped. They v/ere mortified 
by their ill success, and said the Pawnees were 
cowards, who shut up their horses in their lodges 
at night. I invited them to supper with me, 
and Randolph and the young Cheyenne, who 
had been eyeing each other suspiciously and 
curiously, soon became intimate friends. 

" A few miles brought us into the midst of the 




t^heyenne Family — a Warrior, hii? Mother, Wife aiul Child. 



THE PRAIKIE. 31 

buffalo, swarming in immense numbers over the 
plains, where they had left scarcely a blade of 
grass standing. Mr. Preuss, who was sketching 
at a little distance in the rear, had at first noted 
them as large groves of timber. In the sight of 
such a mass of life, the traveller feels a strange 
emotion of grandeur. We had heard from a dis- 
tance a dull and confused murmuring, and, when 
we came in view of their dark masses, there was 
not one among us who did not feel his heart beat 
quicker. It was the early part of the day, when 
the herds are feeding ; and everywhere they were 
4n motion. Here and there a huge old bull was 
rolling in the grass, and clouds of dust rose in 
the air from various parts of the bands, each the 
scene of some obstinate fis^ht. Indians and buf- 
falo make the poetry and life of the prairie, and 
our camp was full of their exhilaration. In place 
of the quiet monotony of the march, relieved 
only by the cracking of the whip, and an * avance 
done ! enfant de garee I ' shouts and songs re- 
sounded from every part of the line, and our 
evening camp was always the commencement 
of a feast, which terminated only with our de- 
parture on the following morning. At any time 
of the night might be seen pieces of the most 
delicate and choicest meat, roasting en appolas^ 
on sticks around the fire, and the guard were 
never without company. With pleasant weather 
and no enemy to fear, and abundance of the most 



32 LIFE OF FEEMONT. 

excellent meat, and no scarcity of bread or to- 
bacco, they were enjoying the oasis of a voy- 
ageur's life. Three cows were killed to-day. 
Kit Carson had shot one, and was continuing 
the chase in the midst of another herd, when 
his horse fell headlong, but sprang up and joined 
the flying band. Though considerably hurt, he 
had the good fortune to break no bones ; and 
Maxwell, who was mounted on a fleet hunter, 
captured the runaway after a hard chase. He 
was on the point of shooting him, to avoid the 
loss of his bridle, (a handsomely mounted Span- 
ish one,) when he found that his horse was able to 
come up with him. Animals are frequently lost 
in this way ; and it is necessary to keep close 
watch over them, in the vicinity of the buffalo, 
in the midst of which they scour off to the 
plains, and are rarely retaken. One of our mules 
took a sudden freak into his head, and joined a 
neighboring band to-day. As we were not in a 
condition to lose horses, I sent several men in 
pursuit, and remained in camp, in the hope of 
retiovering him ; but lost the afternoon to no 
purpose, as we did not see him again. Astro- 
nomical observations placed us in longitude 100^ 
05' 47^', latitude 40^ 49' 55^\ 

" Mt/ 1. As we were riding quietly along the 
bank, a grand herd of buffalo, some seven or eight 
hundred in number, came crowding up from the 
river, where they had been to drink, and com- 



PRAIEIES. 33 

menced crossing the plain slowly, eating as they 
went. The wind was favorable ; the coolness 
bf the morning invited to exercise ; the ground 
was apparently good, and the distance across 
the prairie (two or 'three miles) gave us a fine 
opportunity to charge them before they could 
get among the river hills. It was too fine a 
prospect for a chase to be lost; and, halting for 
a few moments, the hunters were brought up 
and saddled, and Kit Carson, Maxwell, and 
I started together. They were now somewhat 
less than half a mile distant, and we rode easily 
along- until within about three hundred yards, 
when a sudden agitation, a wavering in the 
band, and a galloping to and fro of some which 
were scattered along the skirts, gave us the inti- 
mation that we were discovered. We started 
together at a hand gallop, riding steadily abreast 
of each other, and here the interest of the chase 
became so engrossingly intense, that we were 
sensible to nothing else. We were now closing 
upon them rapidly, and the front of the mass 
was already in rapid motion for the hills, and in 
a few seconds the movement had communicated 
itself to the whole herd. 

" A crowd of bulls, as usual, brought up the 
rear, and every now and then some of them 
faced about, and then dashed on after the band 
a short distance, and turned and looked again, 
as if more than half inclined to stand and fight< 



34 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

In a few moments, however, during which we 
had been quickening our pace, the rout was uni- 
versal, and we were going over the ground lil^e 
a hurricane. When at about' thirty yards, we 
gave the usual shout, (the * hunter's battle-cry,) 
and broke into the herd. We entered on the 
side, the mass giving way in every direction in 
their heedless course. Many of the bulls, less 
active and less fleet than the cows, paying no 
attention to the ground, and occupied solely 
with the hunter, were precipitated to the earth 
with great force, rolling over and over with the 
violence of the shock, and hardly distinguish- 
able in the dust. We separated on entering, 
each singling out his game. 

" My horse was a trained hunter, famous in 
the west under the ' name of Proveau, and, with 
his eyes flashing, and the foam flying from his 
mouth, sprang on after the cow like a tiger. In 
a few moments he brought me alongside of her, 
and, rising in the stirrups, I fired at the distance 
of a yard, the baU entering at the termination 
of the long hair, and passing near the heart. 
She fell headlong at the report of the gun, and 
checking my horse, I looked around for my 
companions. At a little distance. Kit was on the 
ground, engaged in tying his horse to the horn? 
of a cow which he was preparing to cut up. 
Among the scattered bands, at some distance 
Delow, I caught a glimpse of Maxwell ; and 



PRAIRIES. 35 

while I was looking, a light wreath of white 
smoke curled away from his gun, from which T 
was too far to hear the report. Nearer, and be- 
tween me and* the hills, towards which they 
were directing their course, was the body of the 
herd, and giving my horse the rein, we dashed 
after them. A thick cloud of dust hung upon 
their rear, which filled my mouth and eyes, and 
nearly smothered me. In the midst of this I 
could see- nothing, and the buffalo were not 
distinguishable until within thirty feet. They 
crowded together more densely still as I came 
upon them, .and rushed along in such a com- 
pact body, that I could not obtain an entrance, 
— ^the horse almost leaping upon them. In a 
few moments the mass divided to the right and 
left, the horns clattering with a noise heard 
above every thing else, and my horse darted 
into the opening. Five or six bulls charged on 
us as we dashed along the line, but were left 
far behind, and singling out a cow, I gave her 
my fire, but struck too high. She gave a tre- 
mendous leap, and scoured on swifter than be- 
fore. I reined up my horse, and the band swept 
on like a torrent, and left the place quiet and 
clear. Our chase had led us into dangerous 
ground. A prairie-dog village, so thickly settlied 
that there were three or four holes in every 
twenty yards square, occupied the whole bot- 
tom for nearly two miles in length. Looking 



36 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

around, I saw only one of the hunters, nearly 
out of sight, and the long dark line of our cara- 
van crawling along, three or four miles distant." 

The expedition had now rea(!hed the heart of 
the prairie country, and the report contains 
graphic descriptions of the scenery and general 
features of the landscape. The botanical rich^ 
ness of these vast plains is one of their most 
striking attractions. 

" Along our route the amorpha has been in 
very abundant but variable bloom — in some 
places, bending beneath the weight of purple 
clusters ; in others, without a flower. It seems 
to love best the sunny slopes, with a dark soil 
and southern exposure. Everywhere the^ rose is 
met with, and reminds us of cultivated gardens 
and civilization. It is scattered over the prairies 
in small bouquets, and, when glittering in the 
dews and waving in the pleasant breeze of the 
early morning, is the most beautiful of the prairie 
flowers. The artemisia, absinthe, or prairie sage, 
as it is variously called, is increasing in size, and 
glitters like silver, as the southern breeze turns 
up its leaves to the sun. All these plants have 
their insect inhabitants, variously colored ; taldng 
generally the hue of the flower on which they 
live. The artemisia has its sniall fly accompa- 
nying it through every change of elevation and 
latitude ; and wherever I have seen the asclepias 
tuberosa, I have always remarked, too, on the 



PRAIRIES. 37 

flower a large butterfly, so nearly resembling it 
in color, as to be distinguishable at a little. dis- 
tance only by the motion of its wings." 

As they approached the regions where danger 
from Indian hostility was to be apprehended, 
the men were practised, dm-ing the noon and 
evening halts, at target-shooting, and increased 
vigilance was exercised by the guards. 

" We had travelled thirty-one miles. A heavy 
bank of black clouds' in the west came on us 
in a storm between nine and ten, preceded by 
a violent wind. The rain fell in such torrents 
that it was difficult to breathe facing the wind, 
the thunder rolled incessantly, and the whole sky 
was tremulous with lightning ; now and then illu- 
minated by a blinding flash, succeeded by pitchy 
darkness. Carson had the watch from ten to 
midnight, and to him had been assigned our 
young compagnons de voyage^ Messrs. Brant and 
R. Benton. This was their first night on guard, 
and such an introduction did not augur very 
auspiciously of the pleasures of the expedition. 
Many things conspired to render their situation 
uncomfortable ; stories of desperate and bloody 
Indian fights were rife in the camp ; our position 
was badly chosen, surrounded on all sides by 
timbered hollows, and occupying an area of sev- 
eral hundred feet, so that necessarily the guards 
were far apart ; and now and then I could hear 
Randolph, as if relieved by the sound of a voice 

4 



38 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

in the darkness, calling out to the sergeant of 
the ^uard, to direct his attention to some imagi- 
nary alarm ; but they stood it out, and took their 
tm'n regularly afterward." 

The incidents of camp and prairie life are 
pleasantly told in the following passages : — 

^'July 4. The morning was very smoky, the sun 
shining dimly and red, as in a thick fog. The 
camp was roused with a salute at daybreak. 
While we were at breakfast, a buffalo calf broke 
through the camp, followed by a couple of wolves. 
In its fright, it had probably mistaken us for a 
band of buffalo. The wolves were obliged to 
make a circuit around the camp, so that the calf 
got a little the start, and strained every nerve to 
reach a large herd at the foot of the hills, about 
two miles distant ; but first one, and then an- 
other, and another wolf joined in the chase, until 
his pursuers amounted to twenty or thirty, and 
they ran him down before he could reach his 
friends. There were a few bulls near the place, 
and one of them attacked the wolves, and tried 
to rescue him ; but was driven off immediately, 
and the little animal fell an easy prey, half de- 
voured before he was dead. We watched the 
chase with the interest always felt for the weak ; 
and had there been a saddled horse at hand, he 
would have fared better. 

" As we were riding slowly along this after- 
noon, clouds of dust in the ravines, among the 



PRAIRIES. 39 

hills to the right, suddenly attracted our attention, 
and in a few minutes column after column of 
buffalo came galloping down, making directly to 
the* river. By the time the leading herds had 
reached the water, the prakie was darkened with 
the dense masses. Immediately before us, when 
the bands first came down into the valley, 
stretched an unbroken line, the head of which 
was lost among the river hills on the opposite 
side ; and still they poured down from the ridge 
on our right. From hill to hill, the prairie bottom 
was certainly not less than two miles wide ; and 
allowing the animals to be ten feet apart, and 
only ten in a line, there were already eleven 
thousand in view. Some idea may thus be 
formed of their number when they had occupied 
the whole plain. In a short time they surrounded 
us on every side ; extending for several miles in 
the rear, and forward as far as the eye could 
reach ; leaving around us, as we advanced, an 
open space of only two or three hundred yards. 
This movement of the buffalo indicated to us the 
presence of Indians on the North fork. 

" I halted earlier than usual, about forty miles 
from the junction, and all hands were soon busily 
engaged in preparing a feast to celebrate the day. 
The kindness of our friends at St. Louis had 
provided us with a large supply of excellent pre- 
serves and rich fruit-cake ; and when these were 
added to a macaroni soup, and variously prepared 



40 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

dishes of the choicest buffalo meat, crowned with 
a cup of coffee, and enjoyed with prairie* appetite, 
we felt, as we sat in barbaric luxury around our 
smoking supper on the grass, a greater sensation 
of enjoyment than the Roman epicure at his 
perfumed feast. But most of all it seemed to 
please our Indian friends, who, in the unre- 
strained enjoyment of the moment, demanded to 
know if our " medicine days came often." 

The route of the expedition had been along 
the southern side of the Kansas about one hun- 
dred miles, then across that river ; after contin- 
uing some time near its northern side, across the 
country to Grand Island, in the Platte, then along 
the course of that river to the junction of its north 
and south forks, and then up the south fork. 

At the distance of about forty miles from the 
junction, on the 5th of July, Mr. Fremont divided 
his party. With Mr. Preuss, Maxwell, Bernier, 
Ayot, and Basil Lajeunesse, he continued up the 
course of the south fork, taking with him the 
Cheyennes, as their home was in that direction. 
The residue of the party was placed under the 
command of Clement Lambert, who was directed 
to cross over to the north fork, and at some con- 
venient place, make a cache of everything not 
absolutely necessary to the further progress of 
the expedition. It is the custom of parties trav- 
elling far into the wilderness, at points which 
they expect to pass again on their route, to con- 



PRAIRIES. 41 

ceal, by burying, or in any way covering, so as 
to protect and preserve them, such articles as* 
may be dispensed with in the mean time. These 
places of hidden deposit are called caches. After 
attending to this, Lambert was instructed to 
make his way to the American company's fort 
at the mouth of Laramie's Fork, and there wait 
the arrival of Fremont, who designed to reach the 
fort in season to observe certain occultations that 
were to take place on the nights of the 16th and 
17th of July. 

"Jw/t/ 5. Before breakfast all was ready. We 
had one led horse in addition to those we rode, 
and a pack mule, destined to carry our instru- 
ments, provisions, and baggage ; the last two 
articles not being of very great weight. The 
instruments consisted of a sextant, artificial hor- 
izon, &c., a barometer, spy-glass, and compass. 
The chronometer I of course kept on my person. 
I had ordered the cook to put up for us some 
flour, coffee, and sugar, and our rifles were to 
furnish the rest. One blanket, in addition to his 
saddle and saddle blanket, furnished the mate- 
rials for each man's bed, and every one was pro- 
vided with a change of linen. All were armed 
with rifles or double-barrelled guns ; and, in ad- 
dition to these, Maxwell and myself were fur- 
nished with excellent pistols. Thus accoutred, 
we took a parting breakfast with our fiiends, and 
Bet forth. 

4 * 



42 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

" Our journey the first day afforded nothing 
of any interest. We shot a buffalo toward sun- 
set, and, having obtained some meat for our 
evening meal, encamped where a little timber 
afforded us the means of making a fire. Having 
disposed our meat on roasting sticks, we pro- 
ceeded to unpack our bales in search of coffee 
and sugar, and flour for bread. "With the excep- 
tion of a little parched coffee, unground, we 
found nothing. Our cook had neglected to put 
it up, or it had been somehow forgotten. Tired 
and hungry, with tough bull meat without salt, 
(for we had not been able to kill a cow,) and a 
little bitter coffee, we sat down in silence to our 
miserable fare, a very disconsolate party ; for 
yesterday's feast was yet fresh in our memories, 
and this was our first brush with misfortune. 
Each man took his blanket, and laid himself 
down silently. To-day we had travelled about 
thu*ty-six miles. 

" July 6. Finding that our present excursion 
would be attended with considerable hardship, 
and unwilling to expose more persons than neces- 
sary, I determined to send Mr. Preuss back to 
the party. His horse, too, appeared in no condi- 
tion to support the journey; and accordingly, 
after breakfast, he took the road across the hills, 
attended by one of our most trusty men, Bernier. 
The ridge between the rivers is here about fifteen 
miles broad, and I expected he would probably 



PRAIRIES. 43 

strike the fork near their evening camp. At all 
events, he would not fail to find their trail, and 
rejoin them the next day." 

After his people had composed themselves for 
the night, and silence and slumber had fallen 
upon the camp, it was the invariable practice of 
the commander, when the condition of the atmo- 
sphere, the state of the weather, and the aspect 
of the heavens allowed, to get out his instru- 
ments, take astronomical observations, and deter- 
mine and record the latitude and longitude. 

" My companions slept rolled up in their 
blankets, and the Indians lay in the grass near 
the fire ; but my sleeping-place generally had 
an air of more pretension. Our rifles were tied 
together near the muzzle, the butts resting on 
the ground, and a knife laid on the rope, to cut 
away in case of an alarm. Over this, which 
made a kind of frame, was thrown a large In- 
dia rubber cloth, which we used to cover our 
packs. This made a tent sufficiently large to 
receive about half of my bed, and was a place 
of shelter for my instruments ; and as I was 
careful always to put this part against the wind, 
I could lie here with a sensation of satisfied 
enjoyment, and hear the wind blow, and the 
rain patter close to my head, and know that I 
should be at least half dry. Certainly, I never 
slept more soundly. The barometer at sunset 
was 26.010, thermometer 81^, and cloudy ; but 



44 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

a gale from the west sprang up with the setting 
sun, and in a few minutes swept away every 
cloud from the sky. The evening was very fine, 
and I remained up to take some astronomical 
observations." 

The following passage brings the incidents of 
wild prairie life, and some traits and aspects of 
Indian character and habits, vividly before the 
mind. 

" There were some dark-looking objects among 
the hills, about two miles to the left, here low 
and undulating, which we had seen for a little 
time, and supposed to be buffalo coming in to 
water ; but, happening to look behind, Max- 
well saw the Cheyennes whipping up furiously, 
and another glance at the dark objects showed 
them at once to be Indians coming up at speed. 

" Had we been weU mounted, and disencum- 
bered of instruments, we might have set them 
at defiance; but as it was, we were fairly 
caught. It was too late to rejoin our friends, 
and we endeavored to gain a clump of timber 
about half a mile ahead ; but the instruments 
and the tired state of our horses did not allow 
us to go faster than a steady canter, and they 
were gaining on us fast. At first they did not 
appear to be more than fifteen or twenty in 
number, but group after group darted into view 
at the top of the hills, until all the little emi- 
nences seemed in motion, and, in a few minutes 



PRAIRIES. 45 

from the lime they were first discovered, two or 
three hundred, naked to the breech-cloth, were 
sweeping across the prairie. In a few hundred 
yards we discovered that the timber we were 
endeavoring to make was on the opposite side 
of the river ; and before we could reach the 
bank, down came the Indians upon us. 

" I am inclined to think that in a few seconds 
more the leading man, and, perhaps, some of 
his companions, would have rolled in the dust ; 
for we had jerked the covers from our guns, 
and our fingers were on the triggers; men in 
such cases generally act from instinct, and a 
charge from three hundred naked savages is a 
circumstance not well calculated to promote a 
cool exercise of judgment. Just as he was 
about to fire, -Maxwell recognized the leading 
Indian, and shouted to him in the Indian lan- 
guage : ' You're a fool ; don't you know me ? ' 
The sound of his own language seemed to 
shock the savage, and, swerving his horse a 
little, he passed us like an arrow. He wheeled, 
as I rode out toward him, and gave me his 
hand, striking his breast and exclaiming ' Ara- 
paho ! ' They proved to be a village of that 
nation among whom Maxwell had resided as a 
trader a year or two previously, and recognized 
him accordingly. We were soon in the midst 
of the band, answering as well as we could a 
multitude of questions ; of which the very first 



46 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

was, of what tribe were our Indian companions 
who were coming in the rear ? They seemed 
disappointed to know that they were Che- 
yennes, for they had fully anticipated a grand 
dance around a Pawnee scalp that night." ^ 

The party ascended the South Fork, arriving, 
late in the evening of the 10th, at St. Vrain's 
Fort, which is at the foot of the mountains, 
about seventeen miles from Long's Peak. On 
the morning of the 12th, it started across the> 
country in the direction of Fort Laramie, which 
was reached by the evening of the 15th. They 
passed on the way some of those wonderful 
natural formations, which the face of the rocks 
and outlines of the mountains often present in 
the interior of the continent. 

" The hill on the western side imitates, in 
an extraordinary manner, a massive fortified 
place, with a remarkable fulness of detail. The 
rock is marl and earthy limestone, white, with- 
out the least appearance of vegetation, and 
much resembles masonry at a little distance ; 
and here it sweeps around a level area two or 
three hundred yards in diameter, and in the 
form of a half-moon, terminating on either ex- 
tremity in enormous bastions. Along the whole 
line of the parapets appear domes and slender 
minarets, forty or fifty feet high, giving it every 
appearance of an old fortified town. On the 
waters of White River, where this formation 



FORT LARAMIE. 47 

exists in great extent, it presents appearances 
which excite the admiration of the solitary 
voyageur, and form a frequent theme of theii 
conversation when speaking .of the wonders of 
the country. Sometimes it offers the perfectly 
illusive appearance of a large city, with numer- 
ous streets and magnificent buildings, among 
which the Canadians never fail to see their 
cabaret; and sometimes it takes the form of a 
solitary house, with many large chambers, into 
which they drive* their horses at night, and sleep 
in these natural defences perfectly secure from 
any attack of prowling savages. Before reach- 
ing our camp at Goshen's Hole, in crossing the 
immense detritus at the foot of the Castle Rock, 
we were involved amidst winding passages cut 
by the waters of the hill ; and where, w^ith a 
breadth scarcely large enough for the passage of 
a horse, the walls rise thirty and forty feet per- 
pendicularly. This formation supplies the dis- 
coloration of the Platte." 

. Upon reaching Fort Laramie, Fremont found 
the residue of his party there. They had ar- 
rived on the evening of the 13th. Mr. Preuss, 
with his companion Bernier, had intercepted 
them at the expected point. Some extracts from 
Preuss's journal will be read with interest, and 
prepare the mind to appreciate the energy and 
decision of character of Fremont, and the heroic 
fidelity of those of his followers who resolved to 



48 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

share with him the now imminent dangers and 
increasing hardships of the enterprise. 

It seems that after leaving Fremont, on the 
6th of July, Preuss and Bernier reached the 
north fork of the Platte, in about six hours. 
There was no sign that Lambert's party had 
passed. Bernier rode down along the river to 
find them, leaving Preuss, who was too much 
exhausted to accompany him. The night ap- 
proached and Bernier did not return. Of course 
there is always more or less danger in those 
vast unknown regions w^hen parties get sepa- 
rated and out of sight, and where all are liable 
to be suddenly cut off, of not meeting again. 
Preuss describes his situation and feelings on 
the occasion : — 

" The sun went down ; he did not come. Un- 
easy I did not feel, but very hungry ; I had no 
provisions, but I could make a fire ; and, as I 
espied two doves in a tree, I tried to kill one ; 
but it needs a better marksman than myself to 
kill a little bird with a rifle. I made a large 
fire, however, lighted my pipe — this true friend 
of mine in every emergency — lay down and let 
my thoughts wander to the far east. It was not 
many minutes after when I heard the tramp of 
a horse, and my faithful companion was by my 
side. He had found the party, who had been 
delayed by making their cache.) about seven 
miles below. To the good supper which he 



FORT LARAMIE. 49 

brought with him I did ample justice. He had 
forgotten salt, and I tried the soldier's substitute 
in time of war, and used gunpowder; but it 
answered badly — bitter enough, but no flavor of 
Idtchen salt. I slept well; and was only dis- 
turbed by two owls, which were attracted by the 
fii'e, and took their place in the tree under which 
we slept. Their music seemed as disagreeable 
to my companion as to myself; he fired his rifle 
twice, and then they let us alone." 

Under date of July 8, Preuss relates as fol- 
lows : — 

" Our road to-day was a solitary one. No 
game made its appearance — not even a buffalo 
or a stray antelope ; and nothing occurred to 
break the monotony until about five o'clock, 
when the caravan made a sudden halt. There 
was a galloping in of scouts and horsemen from 
every side — a hurrying to and fro in noisy con- 
fusion ; rifles were taken from their cover ; bul- 
let pouches examined ; in short, there was the 
cry of ' Indians ' heard again. I had become so 
much accustomed to these alarms, that now they 
made but little impression on me ; and before 
I had time to become excited, the new-comers 
were ascertained to be whites. It was a large 
party of traders and trappers, conducted by Mr. 
Bridger, a man well known in the history of the 
country. As the sun was low, and there was a 
fine grass patch not far ahead, they turned back 
5 



60 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and encamped for the night with us. Mr. Bridger 
was invited to supper; and we listened with 
eager interest to an account of their adventures. 
What they had met, we would be likely to 
encounter ; the chances which had befallen them, 
would probably happen to us ; we looked upon 
their life as a picture of our own. He informed 
us that the condition of the country had become 
exceedingly dangerous. The Sioux, who had 
been badly disposed, had broken out" into open 
hostility, and in the preceding autumn his party 
had encountered them in a severe engagement, 
in which a number of lives had been lost oiv 
both sides. United with the Cheyenne and Gro& 
Ventre Indians, they were scouring the upper 
country in war parties of great force, and were 
at this time in the neighborhood of the Red 
Buttes, a famous landmark, which was directly on 
our path. They had declared war upon every 
living thing which should be found westward 
of that point, though their main object was 
to attack a large camp of whites and Snake 
Indians, who had a rendezvous in the Sweet- 
water valley. Availing himself of his intimate 
knowledge of the country,* he had reached Lara- 
mie by an unusual route through the Black Hills, 
and avoided coming into contact with any of 
the scattered parties. This gentleman offered 
his services to accompany us so far as the head 
of the Sweetwater; but the absence of our 



FORT LARAMIE. 51 

leader, which was deeply regretted by us all, 
rendered it impossible for us to enter upon such 
arrangement. In a camp consisting of men 
whose lives had been spent in this country, I 
expected to find every one prepared for occur- 
rences of this nature ; but, to my great surprise, 
I found, on the contrary, that this news had 
thrown them all into the greatest consternation, 
and on every side I heard only one exclamation, 
* 11 rCy aura pas de vie pour nous,'' — ' There will 
be no more life for us,' ' our days are numbered.' 
All the night, scattered groups were assembled 
around the fires, smoking their pipes, and listen- 
ing with the greatest eagerness to exaggerated 
details of Indian hostilities ; and in the morn- 
ing I found the camp dispuited, and agitated by 
a variety of conflicting opinions. A majority 
of the people were strongly disposed to return ; 
but Clement Lambert, with some five or six 
others, professed their determination to follow 
Mr. Fremont to the uttermost limit of his jour- 
ney. The others yielded to their remonstrances, 
and, somewhat ashamed of their cowardice, 
concluded to advance at least so far as Laramie 
Fork, eastward of which they were aware no 
danger was to be apprehended." 

Upon Fremont's reaching the fort, a variety of 
circumstances, related to him by Mr. Boudeau, the 
gentleman in charge of that station — corrobor- 
ated by the testimony of all who had means of 



52 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

knowledge — confirmed the alarming statements 
made by Mr. Bridger. Extracts from Fremont's 
Journal will enable the reader to realize the 
pressure made upon him at Fort Laramie to 
prevent the further prosecution of his journey : — 

" Thus it w^ould appear that the country was 
swarming with scattered war parties ; and when 
I heard, during the day, the various contradic- 
tory and exaggerated rumors which were inces- 
santly repeated to them, I was not surprised 
that so much alarm prevailed among my men. 
Carson, one of the best and most experienced 
mountaineers, fully supported the opinion given 
by Bridger of the dangerous state of the country, 
and openly expressed his conviction that we could 
not escape without some sharp encounters with 
the Indians. In addition to this, he made his 
wiU ; and among the circumstances which were 
constantly occurring to increase their alarm, this 
was the most unfortunate ; and I found that a 
number of my party had become so much 
intimidated, that they had requested to be dis- 
charged at this place. 

" So far as frequent interruption from the 
Indians would allow, we occupied ourselves in 
making some astronomical calculations, and 
bringing up the general map to this stage of our 
journey ; but the tent was generally occupied by 
a succession of our ceremonious visitors. Some 
came for presents, and others for information of 



FORT LARAMIE. 53 

our object in coming to the country ; now and 
then, one would dart up to the tent on horseback, 
jerk off his trappings and stand silent at the 
door, holding his horse by the halter, signifying 
his desire to trade ; occasionally, a savage would 
stalk in with -an invitation to a feast of honor, 
a dog feast, and deliberately sit down and wait 
quietly until I was ready to accompany him. I 
went to one ; the women and children were sit- 
ting outside the lodge, and we took our seats on 
buffalo robes spread around. The dog was in a 
large pot over the fire, in the middle of the lodge, 
and immediately on our arrival was dished up 
in large wooden bowls, one of which was handed 
to each. The flesh appeared very glutinous, 
with something of the flavor and appearance of 
mutton. Feeling something move behind me, 
I looked round and found that I had taken my 
seat among a litter of fat young puppies. Had 
I been nice in such matters the prejudices of 
civilization might have interfered with my tran- 
quillity ; but, fortunately, I am not of delicate 
nerves, and continued quietly to empty my 
platter. 

" During our stay here, the men had been 
engaged in making numerous repairs, arranging 
pack-saddles, and otherwise preparing for the 
chances of a rough road and mountain travel. 
All things of this nature being ready, I gathered 
them around me in the evening, and told thun 
5* 



54 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

that ' I had determined to proceed the next day. 
They were all well armed. I had engaged the 
services of Mr. Bissonette as interpreter, and 
had taken, in the circumstances, every possible 
means to insure our safety. In the rumors we 
had heard, I believed there was much exaggera- 
tion ; and then, they were men accustomed to 
this kind of life and to the country ; and that 
these were the dangers of every day occun-ence, 
and to be expected in the ordinary course of 
their service. They had heard of the unsettled 
condition of -the country before leaving St. 
Louis, and therefore could not make it a reason 
for breaking their engagements. Still, I was 
unwilling to take with me, on a service of some 
certain danger, men on whom I could not rely ; 
and as I had understood that there were among 
them some who were disposed to cowardice, and 
anxious to return, they had but to come forward 
at once, and state their desire, and they would 
be discharged with the amount due to them for 
the time they had served.' To their honor be 
it said, there was but one among them who had 
the face to come forward and avail himself 
of the permission. I did not think that the 
situation of the country justified me in taking 
our young companions, Messrs. Brant and Benton, 
along with us. In case of misfortune, it would 
have been thought, at the least, an act of great 
imprudence; and therefore, though reluctantly, 



FORT LARAMIE. 55 

I determined to leave them. Randolph had 
been the life of the camp, and the petit garcon, 
was much regretted by the men, to whom his 
buoyant spirits had afforded great amusement. 
They all, however, agreed in the propriety of 
leaving him at the fort, because, as they said, he 
miafht cost the lives of some of the men in a 
fisht with the Indians. 

" We were ready to depart ; the tents were 
struck, the mules geared up, and our horses 
saddled, and we walked up to the fort to take 
the stirrup-cup with our friends in an excellent 
home-brewed preparation. While thus pleasantly 
engaged, seated in one of the little cool chambers, 
at the door of which a man had been stationed 
to prevent all intrusion from the Indians, a number 
of chiefs, several of them powerful fine-looking 
men, forced their way into the room in spite of 
all opposition. Handing me the following letter, 
they took their seats in silence : — 

*roRT Platte, July 1, 1842. 

* Mr. Fremont : The chiefs having assembled 
in council, have just told me to warn you not to 
set out before the party of young men which 
is now out shall have returned. Furthermore, 
they tell me that they are very sure they will fire 
upon you as soon as they meet you. They are 
expected back in seven or eight days. Excuse 
me for making these observations, but it seems 



56 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

my duty to warn you of danger. Moreover, 
the chiefs who prohibit your setting out be- 
fore the return of the warriors are the bearers of 
this note. 

* I am your obedient servant, 

* Joseph Bissonette, 

' By L. B. Chartrain. 

^ Names of some of the chiefs. The Otter Hat, 
the Breaker of Arrows, the Black Night, the 
BuU's Tail.' 

" After reading this, I mentioned its purport to 
my companions ; and, seeing that all were fully 
possessed of its contents, one of the Indians rose 
up, and having first shaken hands with me, 
spoke as follows : — 

' You have come among us at a bad time. 
Some of our people have been killed, and our 
young men, who are gone to the mountains, are 
eager to avenge the blood of their relations, 
which has been shed by the whites. Our young 
men are bad, and, if they meet you, they will 
believe that you are carrying goods and ammu- 
nition to their enemies, and will fire upon you. 
You have told us that this will make war. We 
know that our great father has many soldiers 
and big guns, and we are anxious to have our 
lives. We love the whites, and are desirous of 
peace. Thinking of all these things, we have 
determined to keep you here until our warriors 



FORT LARAMIE. 67 

return. We are glad to see you among us. Our 
father is rich, and we expected that you would 
have brought presents to us — horses, and guns, 
and blankets. But we are glad to see you. We 
look upon your coming as the light which goes 
before the sun ; for you will tell our great father 
that you have seen us, and that we are naked 
and poor, and have nothing to eat ; and he will 
send us all these things.' He was followed by 
the others to the same effect. 

" The observations of the savage appeared 
reasonable ; but I was aware that they had in 
view only the present object of detaining me, 
and were unwilling I should go further into the 
country. In reply, I asked them, through the 
interpretation of Mr. Boudeau, to select two or 
three of their number to accompany us until we 
should meet their people — they should spread 
their robes in my tent and eat at my table, and 
on our return I would give them presents in 
reward of their services. They declined, saying 
that there were no young men left in the village, 
and that they were too old to travel so many 
days on horseback, and preferred now to smoke 
their pipes in the lodge, and let the warriors go 
on the war-path. Besides, they had no power 
over the young men, and were afraid to interfere 
with them. In my turn I addressed them : 
* You say that you love the whites ; why have 
you killed so many already this spring ? You 



58 LIFE OP FEEMONT. 

say that you love the whites, and are full of 
many expressions of friendship to us ; but you 
are not willing to undergo the fatigue of a few 
days' ride to save our lives. We do not believe 
what you have said, and will not listen to you. 
Whatever a chief among us tells his soldiers to 
do, is done. We are the soldiers of the great 
chief, your father. He has told us to come here 
and see this country, and all the Indians, his 
children. Why should we not go ? Before we 
came, we heard that you had killed his people, 
and ceased to be his children ; but we came 
among you peaceably, holding out our hands. 
Now we find that the stories we heard are not 
lies, and that you are no longer his friends and 
children. We have thrown away our bodies^ and 
will not turn hack. When you told us that your 
young men would kill us, you did not know that 
our hearts were strong, and you did not see the 
rifles which my young men carry in their hands. 
We are few, and you are many, and may kill 
us all ; but there will be much crying in your 
villages, for many of your young men will stay 
behind, and forget to return with your warriors 
from the mountains. Do you think that our 
great chief will let his soldiers die, and forget 
to cover their graves ? Before the snows melt 
again, his warriors will sweep away your villages 
as the fire does the prairie in the autumn. See I 
I have pulled down my white houses^ and my 



FORT LARAMIE. 59 

people are ready; when the sun is ten paces 
higher, we shall be on the march. If you have 
any thing to tell us, you will say it soon.' I 
broke up the conference, as I could do nothing 
with these people; and, being resolved to pro- 
ceed, nothing was to be gained by delay. Accom- 
panied by our hospitable friends, we returned to 
the camp. We had mounted our horses, and 
our parting salutations had been exchanged, 
when one of the chiefs (the Bull's Tail) arrived 
to tell me that they had determined to send a 
young man with us ; and if I would point out 
the place of our evening camp, he should join us 
there. ' The young man is poor,' said he ; 'he 
has no horse, and expects you to give him one.' 
I described to him the place where I intended to 
encamp, and, shaking hands, in a few minutes 
we were among the hills, and this last habitation 
of whites shut out from our view." 

The intrepid resolution evinced by Fremont 
on this occasion is truly remarkable. He was a 
young man, and life had charms and ties as 
strong as ever could have appealed, in any heart, 
to the motives of self-preservation. A fond wife, 
and a dependent and devoted mother, were 
anxiously awaiting his safe return. There was 
ample justification, had he concluded to return. 
Indians, traders, hunters, his own people, even 
the stoutest of them all, conspired with one voice 
to implore him not to expose him and them to 



60 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

what they regarded as all but certain death It 
is, indeed, hard to tell upon what principles, or 
by what processes of reasoning, he was led to 
his inflexible determination. Like rnany other 
instances in his history, it illustrates an extraor- 
dinary sagacity and firmness of mind. He often 
exhibited similar daring, and was always justi- 
fied by the result. The decision at Fort Lara- 
mie was the tm'ning-point in his destiny. K he 
had yielded to the fears that had overcome all 
other minds, failure would have been stamped 
upon him forever. But as it was, he won the 
glory of inflexible and invincible resolution in 
the hearts of his admiring followers, and gave to 
the savages and all others who dealt with him 
an impression they ever after retained, that he 
was indeed a brave, and that nothing could 
prevent his accomplishing whatever he undertook. 
At Fort Laramie, an Indian lodge, about 
eighteen feet in diameter, and twenty in height, 
was procured in place of the tents, which had 
been found too thin to protect the instruments 
from the penetrating rains, or to withstand the 
violent winds prevalent in that region. These 
lodges constitute a warm and dry shelter in cold 
and storms, and are so constructed as to allow 
the lower part of the sides to be lifted up, per- 
mitting the breeze to pass freely through them 
in warm weather. They are particularly com- 
fortable, then, as mosquitoes are never known to 



PLATTE RIVER. 61 

enter them. At the encampment, on the close 
of the first day's march, while the men were 
busily attempting to put up the lodge, Mr. Bis- 
sonette, a trader resident at Fort Laramie, who 
had agreed to accompany the party to a limited 
point, overtook them. The Indian who had 
been engaged as a guide, accompanied by his 
wife, came in with Mr. Bissonette. Upon seeing 
the men engaged in their unaccustomed work, 
attempting to put up the lodge, she laughed 
heartily at their awkwardness, at once took hold 
herself, and pitched it with an expertness which 
it was some time before they learned to equal. 

The point where the Platte leaves the Black 
Hills, presents a most remarkable and beautiful 
scene. The breadth of the stream, generally 
occupying nearly the whole width of the chasm 
through which it flows, is from two to three 
hundred feet. The wall on each side is of per- 
pendicular rock, sometimes even overhanging, 
of a bright red color, from two to four hundred 
feet high, crowned with green summits, fringed 
with occasional pines. The river flows through 
with a swift stream of perfectly clear water, 
occasionally broken into rapids. 

Here, as in all other portions of those vast 
plains, the surface of the .fields is often covered 
with thickly set clumps of artemisia, and the 
whole air is saturated with the odor of camphor 
and spirits of turpentine proceeding from that 



62 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

plant. The aromatic fragrance is found favor- 
able to the restoration of invalids, particularly to 
persons threatened with consumptive complaints. 

'^July 28. We continued our way, and four 
miles beyond the ford Indians were discovered 
again ; and I halted while a party was sent for- 
ward to ascertain who they were. In a short 
time they returned, accompanied by a number 
of Indians of the Oglallah band of Sioux. They 
gave us a very discouraging picture of the coun- 
try. The great drought, and the plague of 
grasshoppers, had swept it so that scarce a blade 
of grass was to be seen, and there was not a 
buffalo to be found in the whole region. Their 
people, they further said, had been nearly starved 
to death, and we would find their road marked 
by lodges which they had thrown away in order 
to move more rapidly, and by the carcasses of 
the horses which they had eaten, or which had 
perished by starvation. Such was the prospect 
before us. 

" When he had finished the interpretation of 
these things, Mr. Bissonette immediately rode up 
to me, and urgently advised that I should en- 
tirely abandon the further prosecution of my ex- 
ploration. ' The best advice I can give you, is 
to turn back at once.' It was his own intention 
to return, as we had now reached the point to 
which he had engaged to attend me. In reply, 
I called up my men, and communicated to them 



PLATTE RIVER. 63 

fully the information I had just received. I then 
expressed to them my fixed determination to 
proceed to the end of the enterprise on which I 
had been sent ; but as the situation of the coun- 
try gave me some reason to apprehend that it 
might be attended with an unfortunate result to 
some of us, I would leave it optional with them 
to continue with me or to return. 

" Among them were some five or six who I 
knew would remain. We had still ten days' 
provisions ; and, should no game be found, when 
this stock was expended, we had our horses and 
mules, which we could eat when other means of 
subsistence failed. But not a man flinched from 
the undertaking. ' We'll eat the mules,' said 
Basil Lajeunesse ; and thereupon we shook hands 
with our interpreter and his Indians, and parted. 
With them I sent back one of my men, Dumes, 
whom the effects of an old wound in the leg 
rendered incapable of continuing the journey on 
foot, and his horse seemed on the point of giving 
out. Having resolved to disencumber ourselves 
immediately of everything not absolutely neces- 
sary to our future operations, I turned directly in 
toward the river, and encamped on the left bank, a 
little above the place where our council had been 
held, and where a thick grove of willows offered 
a suitable spot for the object I had in view. 

" The carts having been discharged, the covers 
and wheels were taken off, and, with the frames, 



64 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

carried into some low places among the willows, 
and concealed in the dense foliage in, such a man- 
ner that the glitter of the iron work might not 
attract the observation of some straggling Indian. 
In the sand, which had been blown up into waves 
among the willows, a large hole was then dug, 
ten feet square and six deep. In the mean time, 
all our effects had been spread out upon the 
ground, and whatever was designed to be carried 
a;long with us separated and laid aside, and the 
remaining part canied to the hole and carefully 
covered up. As much as possible, all traces of 
our proceedings were obliterated, and it wanted 
but a rain to render our cache safe beyond 
discovery. AU the men were now set at work to 
arrange the pack-saddles and make up the packs. 
" The day was very warm and calm, and the 
sky entirely clear, except where, as usual along 
the summits of the mountainous ridge opposite, 
the clouds had congregated in masses. Our 
lodge had been planted, and, on account of the 
heat, the ground-pins had been taken out, and 
the lower part slightly raised. * Near to it was 
standing the barometer, which swung in a tripod 
frame ; and within the lodge, where a small fire 
had been built, Mr. Preuss was occupied in ob- 
serving the temperature of boiling water. At this 
instant, and without any warning, until it was 
within fifty yards, a violent gust of wind dashed 
down the lodge, burying under it Mr. Preuss and 



SOUTH PASS. 65 

about a dozen men, who had attempted to keep 
it from being carried away. I succeeded in sav- 
ing the barometer, which the lodge was carrying 
off with itself, but the thermometer was bl'oken." 

On the return of the party, a month after- 
wards, this cache was found unmolested. 

Following up the Platte, they passed the lofty 
escarpments of red argillaceous sandstone, called 
the Red Buttes. The Hot Spring Gate is about 
four hundred yards in length. The river flows 
through with a quiet and even current. On each 
side is a smooth green shelf of prairie. The 
walls areof white sandstone, rise perpendicularly, 
and are about seventy yards apart. The height 
of the lower one of the two was found to be 
three hundred and sixty feet. 

On the 31st of July they left the Platte, and 
crossed to the Sweetwater River. The next day 
they reached the vicinity of Rock Independence, 
an isolated mass of granite, about six hundred 
and fifty yards long, and forty high. A few 
miles further is the Devil's Gate. The length of 
the passage is about three hundred yards, and its 
width thirty-five yards. The walls are vertical, 
of granite, about four hundred feet in height. 
On the 8th of August they entered the South 
Pass. 

" About six miles from our encampment 
brought us to the summit. The ascent had been 
so gradual, that, with all the intimate knowledge 
6* 



66 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

possessed by Carson, who had made this country 
his home for seventeen years, we were obliged to 
watch very closely to find the place at which we 
had reached the culminating point. This was 
between two low hills, rising on either hand fifty 
or sixty feet. When I looked back at them, from 
the foot of the immediate slope on the western 
plain, their summits appeared to be about one 
hundred and twenty feet above. From the im- 
pression on my miind at this time, and subse- 
quently on our return, I should compare the 
elevation which we surmounted immediately at 
the Pass, to the ascent of the Capitol hill from 
the avenue at Washington. It is difficult for me 
to fix positively the breadth of this pass. From 
the broken ground where it commences, at the 
foot of the Wind River chain, the view to the 
southeast is over a champaign country, broken, 
at the distance of nineteen miles, by the Table 
Rock ; which, with the other isolated hills in its 
vicinity, seems to stand on a comparative plain. 
This I judged to be its termination, the ridge 
recovering its rugged character with the Table 
Rock. It will be seen that it in no manner re- 
sembles the places to which the term is common- 
ly applied; nothing of the gorge-like character 
and winding ascents of the Alleghany passes in 
America ; nothing of the Great St. Bernard and 
Simplon passes in Europe. Approaching it 
from the mouth of the Sweetwater, a sandy 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 67 

plain, one hundred and twenty miles long, con- 
ducts by a gradual and regular ascent, to the 
summit, about seven thousand feet above the 
sea ; and the traveller, without being reminded 
of any change by toilsome ascents, suddenly 
finds himself on the waters which flow to the 
Pacific Ocean. By the route we had travelled, 
the distance from Fort Laramie is three hundred 
and twenty miles, or nine hundred and fifty from 
the mouth of the Kansas." 

From the South Pass, the route continued be- 
hind, or to the westward of the Wind River 
Mountains, among the head streams of the Colo- 
rado. But here Fremont must be allowed to 
tell his own story : — 

^'August 10. The air at sunrise is clear and 
pure, and the morning extremely cold, but beau- 
tiful. A lofty snow peak of the mountain is 
glittering in the first rays of the sun, which has 
not yet reached us. The long mountain wall to 
the east rising two thousand feet abruptly from 
the plain, behind which we see the peaks, is still 
dark, and cuts clear against the glowing sky. A 
fog, just risen from the river, lies along the base 
of the mountain. A little before sunrise the 
thermometer was at 35*^, and at sunrise 33^. 
Water froze last night, and fires are very com- 
fortable. The scenery becomes hourly more 
interesting and grand, and the view here is truly 
magnificent ; but, indeed, it needs something to 



68 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

repay the long prairie journey of a thousand 
miles. The sun has just shot above the wall, 
and makes a magical change. The whole valley 
is glowing and bright, and all the mountain 
peaks are gleaming like silver. Though these 
snow mountains are not the Alps, they have 
their own character of grandeur and magnifi- 
cence, and wiU doubtless find pens and pencils 
to do them justice. In the scene before us, we 
feel how much wood improves a view. The 
pines on the mountain seemed to give it much 
additional beauty. I was agreeably disappointed 
in the character of the streams on this side of 
the ridge. Instead of the creeks, which descrip- 
tion had led me to expect, I find bold, broac? 
streams, with three or four feet water, and 9 
rapid current. The fork on which we are ee 
camped is upwards of a hundred feet wide, 
timbered with groves or thickets of the low wil- 
low. We were now approaching the loftiest 
part of the Wind River chain ; and I left the 
valley a few miles from our encampment, intend- 
ing to penetrate the mountains as far as possible 
with the whole party. We were soon involved 
in very broken ground, among long ridges cov- 
ered with fragments of granite. Winding our 
way up a long ravine, we came unexpectedly in 
view of a most beautiful lake, set like a gem in 
the mountains. The sheet of water lay trans- 
versely across the direction we had been pursu- 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 69 

ing; and, descending the steep, rocky ridge, 
where it was necessary to lead our horses, we 
followed its banks to the southern extremity. 
Here a view of the utmost magnificence and 
grandeur burst upon our eyes. With nothing 
between us and their feet to lessen the effect 
of the whole height, a grand bed of snow- 
capped mountains rose before us, pile upon pile, 
glowing in the bright light of an August day. 
Immediately below them lay the lake, between 
two ridges, covered wdth dark pines, which swept 
down from the main chain to the spot where we 
stood. Here, where the lake glittered in the 
open sunlight, its banks of yellow sand and the 
light foliage of aspen groves contrasted well with 
the gloomy pines. ' Never before,' said Mr. 
Preuss, ' in this country or in Europe, have I 
seen such magnificent, grand rocks.' I was so 
much pleased with the beauty of the place, that 
I determined to make the main camp here, where 
our animals would find good pasturage, and ex- 
plore the mountains, with a small party of men. 
Proceeding a little further, we came suddenly 
upon the outlet of the lake, where it found its 
way through a narrow passage between low hills. 
Dark pines, which overhung the stream, and 
masses of rock, where the water foamed along, 
gave it much romantic beauty. Where we 
crossed, which was immediately at the outlet, it 
is two hundred and fifty feet wide, and so deep 



70 LITE OF EREMONT. 

that with difficulty we were able to ford it. Its 
bed was an accumulation of rocks, boulders, and 
broad slabs, and large angular fragments, among 
which the animals fell repeatedly. 

" The current was very swift, and the water 
cold, and of a crystal purity. In crossing this 
stream, I met with a great misfortune in having 
my barometer broken. It was the only one. A 
great part of the interest of the journey for me 
was in the exploration of these mountains, of 
which so much had been said that was doubtful 
and contradictory; and now their snowy peaks 
rose majestically before me, and the only means 
of giving them authentically to science, the 
object of my anxious solicitude by night and 
day, was destroyed. We had brought this ba- 
rometer in safety a thousand miles, and broke it 
almost among the snow of the mountains. The 
loss was felt by the whole camp — all had seen 
my anxiety, and aided me in preserving it. The 
height of these mountains, considered by the 
hunters and traders the highest in the whole 
range, had been a theme of constant discus- 
sion among them ; and all had looked forward 
with pleasure to the moment when the instru- 
ment, which they believed to be true as the sun, 
should stand upon the summits, and decide their 
disputes. Their grief was only inferior to my 
own. 

"As soon as the camp was formed, I set about 



KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 71 

endeavoring to repair my barometer. As I have 
already said, this was a standard cistern-barome- 
ter, of Troughton's construction. The glass 
cistern had been broken about midway; but as 
the instrument had been kept in a proper posi- 
tion, no air had found its way into the tube, the 
end of which had always remained covered. I 
had with me a number of vials of tolerably 
thick glass, some of which were of the same 
diameter as the cistern, and I spent the day in 
Blowly working on these, endeavoring to cut 
them of the requisite length ; but as my instru- 
ment was a very rough file, I invariably broke 
them. A groove was cut in one of the trees, 
where the barometer was placed during the 
night, to be out of the way of any possible dan- 
ger, and in the morning I commenced again. 
Among the powder-horns in the camp, I found 
one which was very transparent, so that its con- 
sents could be almost as plainly seen as through 
glass. This I boiled and stretched on a piece of 
wood to the requisite diameter, and scraped it 
very thin, in order to increase to the utmost its 
transparency. I tlien, secured it firmly in its 
place on the instrument, with strong glue made 
/rom a buffalo, and filled it with mercury, prop- 
erly heated. A piece of skin, which had covered 
one of the vials, furnished a good pocket, which 
was well secured with strong thread and glue, 
and then the brass cover was Screwed to its 



72 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

place. The instrument was left some time to 
dry ; and when I reversed it, a few hom's after, I 
had the satisfaction to find it in perfect order ; its 
indications being about the same as on the other 
side of the lake before it had been broken. Our 
success in this little incident diftused pleasm'e 
throughout the camp ; and we immediately set 
about our preparations for ascending the moun- 
tains. 

" I was desirous to keep strictly within the 
scope of my instructions; and it would have 
required ten or fifteen additional days for the 
accomplishment of this object; our animals had 
become very much worn out with the length of 
the journey ; game was very scarce, and, though 
it does not appear in the course of the narrative, 
(as I have avoided dwelling upon trifling inci- 
dents not connected with the objects of the ex- 
pedition,) the spirits of the men had been much 
exhausted by the hardships and privations to 
which they had been subjected. Our provisions 
had wellnigh all disappeared. Bread had been 
long out of the question ; and of all our stock, 
we had remaining two or three pounds of coffee, 
and a small quantity of macaroni, which had 
been husbanded with great care for the moun- 
tain expedition we were about to undertake. 
Our daily meal consisted of dry buffalo meat, 
cooked in tallow ; and, as we had not dried this 
with Indian skill, part of it was spoiled; and 



ROOKY MOUNTAINS. 73 

what remained of good, was as hard as wood, 
having much the taste and appearance of so 
many pieces of bark. Even of this, our stock 
was rapidly diminishing in a camp which was 
capable of consuming two buffaloes in every 
twenty-four hom's. These animals had entirely 
disappeared ; and it was not probable that we 
should fall in with them again until we returned 
to the Sweetwater. 

" Our arrangements for the ascent were rap- 
idly completed. We were in a hostile country, 
which rendered the greatest vigilance and cir- 
cumspection necessary. The pass at the north 
end of the mountain was generally infested by 
Blackfeet; and immediately opposite was one 
of their forts, on the edge of a little thicket, two 
or three hundred feet from our encampment. 
We were posted in a grove of beech, on the 
margin of the lake, and a few hundred feet long, 
with a naiTow prairillon on the inner side, bor- 
dered by the rocky ridge. In the upper end of 
this grove we cleared a circular space about 
forty feet in diameter, and with the felled tim- 
ber and interwoven branches, surrounded it with 
a breastwork five feet in height. A gap was 
left for a gate on the inner side, by which the 
animals were to be driven in and secured, while 
the men slept around the little work. It was 
half hidden by the foliage ; and, garrisoned by 
twelve resolute men, would have set at defiance 

7 



74 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

any band of savages which might chance to dis- 
cover them in the interval of our absence. Fif- 
teen of the best mules, with fourteen men, were 
selected for the mountain party. Our provis- 
ions consisted of dried meat for two days, with 
our little stock of coffee and some macaroni. 
In addition to the barometer and a thermome- 
ter, I took with me a sextant and spy-glass, and 
we had, of course, our compasses. In charge 
of the camp I left Bernier, one of my most trust- 
worthy men, who possessed the most deter- 
mined courage. 

'•''August 12. Early in the morning we left 
the camp, fifteen in number, well armed, of 
course, and mounted on our best mules. A 
pack animal carried our provisions, with a 
coffee-pot and kettle, and three or four tin cups. 
Every man had a blanket strapped over his 
saddle, to serve for his bed, and the instruments 
were carried by turns on their backs. We en- 
tered directly on rough and rocky ground ; and, 
just after crossing the ridge, had the good for- 
tune to shoot an antelope. We heard the roar, 
and had a glimpse of a waterfall as we rode 
along ; and, crossing in our way two fine 
streams, tributary to the Colorado, in about 
two hours' ride we reached the top of the first 
row or range of the mountains. Here, again, a 
view of the most romantic beauty met our eyes 
It seemed as if, from the vast expanse of unin- 



• ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 75 

teresting prairie we had passed over, Nature 
had collected all her beauties together in one 
chosen place. We were overlooking a deep 
valley, which was entirely occupied by three 
lakes, and from the brink the surrounding ridges 
rose precipitously five hundred and a thou- 
sand feet, covered with the dark green of the 
balsam pine, relieved on the border of the lake 
with the light foliage of the aspen. They aU 
communicated with each other; and the green 
of the waters, common to mountain lakes of 
great depth, showed that it would be impossi- 
ble to cross them. The surprise manifested by 
our guides when these impassable obstacles 
suddenly barred our progress, proved that they 
were among the hidden treasures of the place, 
unknown even to the wandering trappers of the 
region. Descending the hill, we proceeded to 
make our way along the margin to the southern 
extremity. A narrow strip of angular fragments 
of rock sometimes afforded a rough pathway for 
our mules, but generally we rode along the 
shelving side, occasionally scrambling up, at a 
considerable risk of tumbling back into the lake. 
" The slope was frequently 60° ; the pines 
grew densely together, and the ground was cov- 
ered with the branches and trunks of trees. The 
air was fragrant with the odor of the pines; 
and I realized this delightful morning the plea- 
sure of breathing that mountain air which makes 



76 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

a constant theme of the hunter's praise, and 
which now made us feel as if we had all been 
drinking some exhilarating gas. The depths of 
this unexplored forest were a place to delight 
the heart of a botanist. There was a rich un- 
dergrowth of plants, and numerous gay-colored 
flowers in brilliant bloom. 

" We had reached a very elevated point, and 
in the valley below, and among the hills, were a 
number of lakes at different levels ; some, two 
or three hundred feet above others, with which 
they communicated by foaming torrents. Even 
to our great height, the roar of the cataracts 
came up, and we could see them leaping down 
in lines of snowy foam. From this scene of 
busy waters, we turned abruptly into the still- 
ness of a forest, where we rode among the open 
boUs of the pines, over a lawn of verdant grass, 
having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds. 
This led us, after a time, among masses of rock 
which had no vegetable earth but in hollows 
and crevices, though still the pine forest contin- 
ued. Toward evening, we reached a defile, or 
rather a hole in the mountains, entirely shut in 
by dark pine-covered rocks. 

" Our table service was rather scant ; and we 
held the meat in our hands, and clean rocks 
made good plates, on which we spread our 
macaroni. Among all the strange places on 
which we had occasion to encamp during our 



EOCKY MOUNTAINS. 77 

long journey, none have left so vivid an impres- 
sion on my mind as the camp of this evening. 
The disorder of the masses which surrounded 
us ; the little hole through which we saw the 
stars overhead ; the dark pines where we slept; 
and the rocks lit up with the glow of our fires, 
made a night-picture of very wild beauty. 

'•'•August 13. The morning was bright and 
pleasant, just cool enough to make exercise 
agreeable, and we soon entered the defile I had 
seen the preceding day. It was smoothly car- 
peted with a soft grass, and scattered over with 
groups of flowers, of which yellow was the pre- 
dominant color. Sometimes we were forced, by 
an occasional difficult pass, to pick our way on 
a narrow ledge along the side of the defile, and 
the mules were frequently on their knees ; but 
these obstructions were rare, and we journeyed 
on in the sweet morning air, delighted at our 
good fortune in having found such a beautiful 
entrance to the mountains. This road contin- 
ued for about three miles, when we suddenly 
reached its termination in one of the grand 
views, which, at every turn, meet the traveller in 
this magnificent region. Here the defile up 
which we had travelled, opened out into a small 
lawn, where, in a little lake, the stream had its 
source. 

" It is not by the splendor of far-off views, 
which have lent such a glory to the Alps, that 

7* 



78 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

these impress the mind ; but by a gigautie 
disorder of enormous masses, and a savage sub- 
limity of naked rock, in wonderful contrast with 
innumerable green spots of a rich floral beauty, 
shut up in their stern recesses. Their wildness 
seems well suited to the character of the 
people who inhabit the country. 

" I determined to leave our animals here, and 
make the rest of our way on foot. The peak 
appeared so near, that there was no doubt of our 
returning before night ; and a few men were 
left in charge of the mules, with our provisions 
and blankets. We took with us nothinsr but 
our arms and instruments, and, as the day had 
become warm, the greater part left our coats. 
Having made an early dinner, we started again. 
We were soon involved in the most ragged 
precipices, nearing the central chain very slowly, 
and rising but little. The first ridge hid a 
succession of others ; and when, with great fa- 
tigue and difficulty, we had climbed up five 
hundred feet, it was but to make an equal de- 
scent on the other side; all these intervening 
places were filled with small deep lakes, which 
met the eye in every direction, descending 
from one level to another, sometimes under 
bridges formed by huge fragments of granite, 
beneath which was heard the roar of the water. 
These constantly obstructed our path, forcing 
us to make long dStours ; frequently obliged to 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 79 

retrace our steps, and frequently falling among 
the rocks. Maxwell was precipitated toward 
the face of a precipice, and saved himself from 
going over by throwing himself flat on the 
ground. We clambered on, always expecting, 
with every ridge that we crossed, to reach the 
foot of the peaks, and always disappointed, 
until about four o'clock, when, pretty well worn 
out, we reached the shore of a little lake, in 
which there was a rocky island, 

" By the time we had reached the further side 
of the lake, we found ourselves all exceedingly 
fatigued, and, much to the satisfaction of the 
whole party, we encamped. The spot we had 
chosen was a broad, flat rock, in some measure 
protected from the winds by the surrounding 
crags, and the trmiks of fallen pines afforded us 
bright fires. Near by was a foaming torrent, 
which tumbled into the little lake about one 
hundred and fifty feet below us, and which, by 
way of distinction, we have called Island Lake. 
We had reached the upper limit of the piney 
region ; as, above this point, no tree was to be 
seen, and patches of snow lay everywhere around 
us on the cold sides of the rocks. The flora of 
the region we had traversed since leaving our 
mules was extremely rich, and, among the char- 
acteristic plants, the scarlet flowers of the dodC' 
catheon dentatum everywhere met the eye in 
great abundance. A small green ravine, on the 



80 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

edge of which we were encamped, was filled 
with a profusion of alpine plants in brilliant 
bloom. 

" I was taken ill shortly after we had encamped, 
and continued so until late in the night, with 
violent headache, and vomiting. This was 
probably caused by the excessive fatigue I had 
undergone, and want of food, and perhaps, also, 
in some measure, by the rarity of the air. The 
night was cold, as a violent gale from the north 
had sprung up at sunset, which entirely blew 
away the heat of the fires. The cold, and our 
granite beds, had not been favorable to sleep, 
and we were glad to see the face of the sun in 
the morning. Not being delayed by any prepar- 
ation for breakfast, we set out immediately. , 

" On every side as we advanced was heard the 
roar of waters, and of a torrent, which we fol- 
lowed up a short distance, until it expanded into 
a lake about one mile in length. On the north- 
ern side of the lake was a bank of ice, or rather 
of snow covered with a crust of ice. Carson 
had been our guide into the mountains, and, 
agreeably to his advice, we left this little valley, 
and took to the ridges again ; which we found 
extremely broken, and where we were again 
involved among precipices. Here were ice- 
fields ; among which we were all dispersed, 
seeking each the best path to ascend the peak. 
Mr. Preuss attempted to walk along the upper 



ROCKY MOlINTAmS. 81 

edge of one of these fields, which sloped away 
at an angle of about twenty degrees ; but his 
feet slipped from under him, and he went plung- 
ing down the plane. A few hundred feet below, 
at the bottom, w^ere some fragments of sharp 
rock, on which he landed ; and though he turned 
a couple of somersets, fortunately received no 
injury beyond a few bruises. Two of the men, 
Clement Lambert and Descoteaux, had been 
taken ill, and lay down on the rocks a short dis- 
tance below ; and at this point I was attacked 
with headache and giddiness, accompanied by 
vomiting, as on the day before. Finding myself 
unable to proceed, I sent the barometer over to 
Mr. Preuss, who tvas in a gap two or three hun- 
dred yards distant, desiring him to reach the 
peak, if possible, and take an observation there. 
He found himself unable to proceed further in 
that direction, and took an observation, where 
the barometer stood at 19.401 ; attached ther- 
mometer 50*^, in the gap. Carson, who had 
gone over to him, succeeded in reaching one of 
the snowy summits of the main ridge, whence 
he saw the peak towards which all our efforts 
had been directed, towering eight or ten hundred 
feet into the air above him. In the mean time, 
finding myself grow rather worse than better, 
and doubtful how far my strength would carry 
me, I sent Basil Lajeunesse, with four men, 
back to the place where the mules had been 
left. 



82 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

" We were now better acquainted with the 
topography of the country, and I directed him 
to bring back with him, if it were in any way 
possible, four or five mules, with provisions and 
blankets. With me were Maxwell and Ayer ; 
and after we had remained nearly an hour on 
the rock, it became so unpleasantly cold, though 
the day was bright, that we set out on our 
return to the camp, at which we all arrived 
safely, straggling in one after the other. I con- 
tinued ill during the afternoon, but became 
better towards sundown, when my recovery was 
completed by the appearance of Basil and four 
men, all mounted. The men who had gone with 
him had been too much fatigued to return, and 
were relieved by those in charge of tlie horses ; 
but in his powers of endurance Basil resembled 
more a mountain goat than a man. They 
brought blankets and provisions, and we enjoyed 
well our dried meat and a cup of good coffee. 
We rolled ourselves up in our blankets, and, 
with our feet tm'ned to a blazing fire, slept 
soundly until morning. 

" August 15. It had been supposed that we 
had finished with the mountains ; and the even- 
ing before, it had been arranged that Carson 
should set out at daylight, and return to break- 
fast at the Camp of the Mules, taking with him 
all but four or five men, who were to stay with 
me and bring back the mules and instruments. 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 83 

Accordingly, at the break of day they set out. 
With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil 
Lajeunesse, Clement Lambert, Janisse, and 
Descoteaux. When we had secm-ed strength 
for the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered 
what remained, which was enough for one meal, 
with rocks, in order that it might be safe from 
any marauding bird ; and, saddling our mules, 
turned our faces once more towards the peaks. 
This time we determined to proceed quietly and 
cautiously, deliberately resolved to accomplish 
our object if it were within the compass of 
human means. We were of opinion that a 
long defile which lay to the left of yesterday's 
route would lead us to the foot of the main 
peak. Our mules had been refreshed by the 
fine grass in the little ravine at the Island camp, 
and we intended to ride up the defiJe as far as 
possible, in order to husband our strength for 
the main ascent. Though this was a fine pas- 
sage, still, it was a defile of the most rugged 
mountains known, and we had many a rough 
and steep sUppery place to cross before reaching 
the end. In this place the sun rarely shone ; 
snow lay along the border of the small stream 
which flowed through it, and occasional icy 
passages made the footing of the mules very 
insecure, and the rocks and ground were moist 
with the trickling waters in this spring of 
mighty rivers. We soon had the satisfaction to 



84 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

find ourselves riding along the huge wall which 
forms the central summit of the chain. There 
at last it rose by our sides, a nearly perpendicular 
wall of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet 
above our heads in a serrated line of broken, 
jugged cones. We rode on until we came 
almost immediately below the main peak, which 
I denominated the Snow Peak, as it exhibited 
more snow to the eye than any of the neighbor- 
ing summits. Here were three small lakes of a 
green color, each of perhaps a thousand yards in 
diameter, and apparently very deep. These lay 
in a kind of chasm ; and, according to the barom- 
eter, we had attained but a few hundred feet 
above the Island lake. The barometer here 
stood at 20.450, attached thermometer 70^. 

" We managed to get our mules up to a little 
bench about a hundred feet above the lakes, 
where there was a patch of good grass, and 
turned them loose to graze. During our rough 
ride to this place, they had exhibited a wonder- 
ful surefootedness. Parts of the defile were 
filled with angular, sharp fragments of rock, 
three or four and eight or ten feet cube ; and 
among these they had worked their way, leap- 
ing from one narrow point to another, rarely 
making a false step, and giving us no occasion 
to dismount. Having divested ourselves of 
every unnecessary encumbrance, we commenced 
the ascent. This time, like experienced travel- 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 85 

lers, we did not press ourselves, but climbed 
leisurely, sitting down so soon as we found 
breath beginning to fail. At intervals, we 
reached places where a number of springs 
gushed from the rocks, and about 1,800 feet 
above the lakes came to the snow line. From 
this point our progress was uninterrupted- 
climbing. Hitherto, I had worn a pair of 
thick moccasins, with soles of parfleche ; but 
here I put on a light thin pair, which I had 
brought for the pm-pose, as now the use of our 
toes became necessary to a further advance. I 
availed myself of a sort of cpmb of the moun- 
tain, which stood against the wall like a buttress, 
and which the wind and the solar radiation,, 
joined to the steepness of the smooth rock, had 
kept almost entirely free from snow. Up this I 
made my way rapidly. Our cautious method 
of advancing in the outset had spared my 
strength ; and, with the exception of a slight 
disposition to headache, I felt no remains of 
yesterday's illness. In a few minutes we 
reached a point where the buttress was over- 
hanging, and there was no other way of sur- 
mounting the difficulty than by passing around 
one side of it, which was the face of a vertical 
precipice of several hundred feet." 

Parfleche is the name given to buffalo hide. 
The Indian women prepare it by scraping and 
drying. It is exceedingly tough and hard, and 
8 



86 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

receives its name from the circumstancfc th^t it 
cannot be pierced by arrows or spearsc The en- 
tire dress of Fremont and liis party, on their as- 
cent to the " top of America," consisted of a blue 
flannel shkt, free and open at the neck, the collai 
turning down over a black silk handkerchief tied 
loosely, blue cloth pantaloons, a slouched broad- 
brimmed hat, and moccasins as above described. 
It was well adapted to climbing, — quite light, 
and at the same time warm, and every way com- 
fortable. 

" Putting hands and feet in the crevices be- 
tween the blocks, I succeeded in getting over it, 
and, when I reached the top, found my compan- 
ions in a small valley below. Descending to 
them, we continued climbing, and in a short time 
reached the crest. I sprang upon the summit, 
and another step would have precipitated me 
into an immense snow-field five hundred feet 
below. To the edge of this field was a sheer 
icy precipice ; and then, with a gradual fall, the 
field sloped off" for about a mile, until it struck 
the foot of another lower ridge. I stood on a 
narrow crest, about three feet in width, with an 
inclination of about 20^^ N. 51° E. As soon as 
I had gratified the first feehngs of curiosity, I 
descended, and each man ascended in his turn 
for I would only allow one at a time to mount, 
the unstable and precarious slab, which it seemed 
a breath would hur] into the abyss below. ' We 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 87 

mounted the barometer in the snow of the sum- 
mit, and, fixing a ramrod in a crevice, unfurled 
the national flag, to wave in the breeze where 
never flag waved before. Daring our morning's 
ascent, we had met no sign of animal life, 
except a small bird having the appearance of 
a sparrow. A stillness the most profound and 
a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly 
on the mind as the great features of the place. 
Here, on the summit, where the stillness was ab- 
solute, unbroken by any sound, and the solitude 
complete, we thought ourselves beyond the re- 
gion of animated life ; but while we were sitting 
on the rock, a solitary bee [hromus^ the humble 
bee) came winging his flight from the eastern 
valley, and lit on the knee of one of the men. 

" Around us, the whole scene had one main 
striking feature, which was that of terrible con- 
vulsion. Parallel to its length, the ridge was 
split into chasms and fissures, between which 
rose the thin, lofty walls, terminated with slen- 
der minarets and columns, which is correctly 
represented in the view from the camp on Island 
Lake. According to the barometer, the little 
crest of the wall on which we stood was three 
thousand five hundred and seventy feet above 
that place, and two thousand seven hundred and 
eighty above the little lakes at the bottom, im- 
mediately at our feet. Our camp at the Two 
Hills (an astronomical station) bore south 3*^ 



88 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

east, which, with a bearing afterward obtained 
from a fixed position, enabled us to locate the 
peak. The bearing of the Trois Tetons was 
north 50'^ west, and the direction of the central 
ridge of the Wind River Mountains south 39^ 
east. The summit rock was gneiss, succeeded 
by sienitic gneiss. Sienite arid feldspar suc- 
ceeded in our descent to the snow line, where 
■we found a feldspathic granite. I had remarked 
that the noise produced by the explosion of our 
pistols had the usual degree of loudness, but was 
not in the least prolonged, expiring almost 
instantaneously. Having now made what obser- 
vations our means afforded, we proceeded to de- 
scend. We had accomplished an object of laud- 
able ambition, and beyond the strict order of our 
instructions. We had climbed the loftiest peak 
of the R-ocky Mountains, and looked down upon 
the snow a thousand feet below, and, standing 
where never human foot had stood before, felt 
the exultation of first explorers. It was about 
two o'clock when we left the summit; and when 
we reached the bottom, the sun had already sunk 
behind the wall, and the day was drav/ing to a 
close. It would have been pleasant to have lin- 
gered here and on the summit longer ; but we 
hurried away as rapidly as the ground would 
perniit, for it was an object to regain our party 
as soon as possible, not knowing what accident 
the next hour might bring forth. 




Hoisting the American Flag on the highest peak of the llock> ■^^.^nnta^Ila 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 89 

" We reached our deposit of provisions at 
nightfall. Here was not the inn which awaits 
the tired traveller on his return from Mont Blanc, 
or the orange groves of South America, with 
their refreshing juices and soft fragrant air ; but 
we found our little cache of dried meat and coffee 
undisturbed. Though the moon was bright, the 
road was full of precipices, and the fatigue of 
the day had been gTcat. We therefore aban- 
doned the idea of rejoining our friends, and lay 
down on the rock, and, in spite of the cold, slept 
soundly. 

^^ August 16. We left our encampment with the 
daylight. We saw on our way large flocks of the 
mountain goat looking down on us from the 
cliffs. At the crack of a rifle they would bound 
off among the rocks, and in a few minutes make 
their appearance on some lofty peak, some hun- 
dred or a thousand feet above. It is needless to 
attempt any further description of the countiy ; 
the portion over which we travelled this morning 
was rough as imagination could picture it, and 
to us seemed equally beautiful. A concourse 
of lakes and rushing waters, mountains of rocks 
naked and destitute. of vegetable earth, dells and 
ravines of the most exquisite beauty, all kept 
green and fresh by the great moisture in the air, 
and sown with brilliant flowers, and everywhere, 
thrown around all, the glory of most magnificent 
scenes ; these constitute the features of the placfe, 

8* 



90 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and impress themselves vividly on the mind of 
the traveller. It was not until 11 o'clock that 
we reached the place where onr animals had 
been left when we first attempted the mountains 
on foot. Near one of the still burning fires we 
found a piece of meat, which our friends had 
thrown away, and which furnished us a mouth- 
ful — a very scanty breakfast. We continued 
directly on, and reached our camp on the moun- 
tain lake at dusk. We found all well. Nothing 
had occurred to interrupt the quiet since our 
departure, and the fine grass and good cool 
water had done much to re-establish our animals. 
All heard with great delight the order to turn 
our faces homeward; and toward sundown of 
the 17th, we encamped again at the Two 
Buttes." 

The Peak which had thus been reached was 
found to be, by the barometer, 13,570 feet above 
the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and is sup- 
posed to be the highest point of the E-ocky 
Mountains. On the north, within the range of 
the eye, were the snow-clad mountains that con- 
tain the sources of the Columbia and Missouri, 
on the west the inumerable- lakes and streams 
that feed the Colorado of the Gulf of California, 
and on the east the springs of the Yellow Stone 
branch of the Missouri. On the south the head- 
waters of the Platte or Nebraska gush from their 
fountains, and not far beyond them are the orig- 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 91 

inal mountain reservoirs of the Arkansas. It is 
the great central summit of the continent, and is 
properly marked, on ail maps, in honor of the 
first man that ever stood upon it, Fremont's Peak. 

The reader will notice, when we reach the 
period just prior to the opening of the California 
war, that it also fell to the lot of Fremont to un- 
furl the banner of our country for the first time 
from the top of the Sierra, on a mountain range 
near the Pacific coast, at Hawk's Peak. 

It is, by the way, an interesting fact that the 
Indians have a superstitious awe of the craggy, 
cavernous, and perilous recesses and declivities 
of these great mountain ranges. Hidden cata- 
racts and torrents produce sounds and echoes that 
appall the untutored imagination. The whole 
scene is felt to be the abode of supernatural 
beings, and the savage shr^inks from ascending 
the slopes, or threading their broken passages. 
We may consider it certain, therefore, that no 
Indian had ever attempted to climb Fremont's 
Peak. 

On the 19th, the returning party repassed the 
point where the waters divide, to seek the At- 
lantic and Pacific, and reached Rock Indepen- 
dence on the evening of the 22d. Except in a 
depression on the summit, where there is a 
scanty growth of shrubs, and a solitary dwarf 
pine, the rock is entu'cly bare. Wherever the 
jfcurface is sufficiently smooth, and in some in- 



92 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

stances as high up as sixty or eighty feet, the 
names of visitors are inscribed. Those of traders, 
missionaries, and scientific travellers, are legible 
at all points. 

" Here," says Fremont, in his Journal, " not 
unmindful of the custom of early travellers and 
explorers in our country, I engraved on this rock 
of the Far West a symbol of the Christian faith. 
Among the thickly inscribed names, I made on 
the hard granite the impression x)f a large cross, 
which I covered with a black preparation of 
India rubber, well calculated to resist the in- 
fluence of wind and rain. It stands amidst the 
names of many who have long since found their 
way to the grave, and for whom the huge rock 
is a giant gravestone. 

" One George Weymouth was sent out to 
Maine, by the Earl of Southampton, Lord 
Arundel, and others, and in the narrative of his 
discoveries he says : * the next day, we ascended 
in our pinnace that part of the river which lies 
more to the westward, carrying with us a cross, — 
a thing never omitted by any Christian traveller, 
— which we erected at the ultimate end of our 
route.' This was in the year 1605 ; and in 1842 
I obeyed the feeling of early travellers, and left 
the impression of the cross deeply engraved on 
the vast rock, one thousand miles beyond the 
Mississippi, to which discoverers have given the. 
national name of Hock Independence.-' 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 93 

Having planted the Flag of the Union on the 
topmost peak of the central mountains, and in- 
scribed the symbol, dear to all believing hearts, 
upon the mighty monumental rock at theii' base, 
he had fulfilled the holiest aspirations of patri- 
otism and piety, and, as the Explorer of the vast 
interior of North America, had pledged and 
consecrated it to Republican Freedom and 
Christian Civilization. 

As his instructions required him to survey the 
course and bed of the Platte, if possible, he sent 
the main body of his men across the country to 
Goat Island, with orders to remain there until 
he rejoined them, and with Mr. Preuss, and five 
of his best men, namely, Clement Lambert, Basil 
Lajeunesse, Honore Ayot, Benoist and Desco- 
teaux, he pursued the descending river. The 
India-rubber boat was filled with air, and placed 
in the water, with what was necessary for their 
purpose, and they put forth upon its current. 
The thrilling adventures of the voyage, he relates 
as follows : — 

" There appeared no scarcity of water, and 
we took on board, with various instruments and 
baggage, provisions for ten or twelve days. We 
paddled down the river rapidly, for our little 
craft was light as a duck on the water ; and the 
sun had been sometime risen, when we heard 
before us a hollow roar, which we supposed to 
be that of a fall, of which we had heard a vague 



94 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

rumor, but whose exact locality no one had been 
able to describe to us. We were approaching a 
ridge, through which the river passes by a place 
called ' canon,' (pronounced kanyon^) a Spanish 
word, signifying a piece of artillery, the barrel 
of a gun, or any kind of tube ; and which, in 
this couijtry, has been adopted to describe the 
passage of a river between perpendicular rocks 
of great height, which frequently approach each 
other so closely overhead as to form a kind of 
tunnel over the stream, which foams along below, 
half-choked up by fallen fragments. Between 
the mouth of the Sweetwater and Goat Island, 
there is probably a fall of three hundred feet, 
and that was principally made in the canons 
before us ; as, without them, the water was com- 
paratively smooth. As we neared the ridge, 
the river made a sudden turn, and swept squarely 
down against one of the wails of the caiion with 
a great velocity, and so steep a descent, that it 
had to the eye the appearance of an inclined 
plane. When we launched into this, the men 
jumped overboard, to cheek the velocity of the 
boat, but were soon in water up to their necks 
and our boat ran on ; but we succeeded in bring 
ing her to a small point of rocks on the right, at 
the mouth of the caiion. Here was a kind of ele- 
vated sand beach, not many yards square, backed 
by the rocks, and around the point the river 
swept at a right angle. Trunks of trees depos* 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 95 

ited on jutting points twenty or thirty feet above, 
and other marks, showed that the water here 
frequently rose to a considerable height. The 
ridge was of the same decomposing granite 
already mentioned, and the water had worked 
the surface, in many places, into a wavy surface 
of ridfi^es and holes. We ascended the rocks to 
reconnoitre the ground, and from the summit 
the passage a,ppeared to be a continued cataract 
foaming over many obstructions, and broken by 
a number of small falls. We saw nowhere a 
fall ansv/ering to that which had been described 
to us as having twenty or twenty-five feet; but 
still concluded this to be the place in question, 
as, in the season of floods, the rush of the river 
against the wall would produce a great rise, and 
the waters, reflected squarely off, would descend 
through the passage in a sheet of foam, having 
every appearance of a large fall. Eighteen 
years previous to this time, as I subsequently 
learned from himself, Mr. Fitzpatrick, some- 
where above on this river, had embarked with a 
valuable cargo of beaver. Unacquainted with 
the stream, which he believed would conduct 
him safely to the Missouri, he came unexpectedly 
into this canon, where he was wrecked, with the 
total loss of his furs. It would have been a 
work of great time and labor to pack our bag- 
gage across the ridge, and I determined to run 
the caiion. We all again embarked, and at 



96 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

first attempted to check the way of the boat ; 
but the water swept through with so much vio- 
lence that we narrowly escaped being swamped, 
and were obliged to let her go in the full force 
of the current, and trust to the skill of the boat- 
men. The dangerous places in this canon were 
where huge rocks had fallen {rom above, and 
hemmed in the already narrow pass of the river 
to an open space of three or four and five feet. 
These obstructions raised the water consider- 
ably above, which was sometimes precipitated 
over in a fall ; and at other places, where this 
dam was too high, rushed through the contracted 
opening with tremendous violence. Had our 
boat been made of wood, in passing the narrows 
she would have been staved ; but her elasticity 
preserved her unhurt from every shock, and she 
seemed fairly to leap over the falls. 

" In this way we passed three cataracts in 
succession, where, perhaps, one hundred feet of 
smooth water intervened; and finally, with a 
shout of pleasure at our success, issued from 
our tunnel into the open day beyond. We were 
iSO delighted with the performance of our boat, 
and so confident in her powers, that we would 
not have hesitated to leap a fall of ten feet with 
her. We put to shore for breakfast at some 
willows on the right bank, immediately below 
the mouth of the canon ; for it was now eight 
o'clock, and we had been working since daylight, 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 97 

and were all wet, fatigued, and hungry. While 
the men were preparing breakfast, I went out to 
reconnoitre. The view was very limited. The 
com'se of the river was smooth, so far as I could 
see ; on both sides were broken hills ; and but a 
mile or two below was a^nother high ridge. The 
rock at the mouth of the caiion was still the 
decomposing granite, with great quantities of 
mica, which made a very glittering sand. 

" We reembarked at nine o'clock, and in about 
twenty minutes reached the next canon. Land- 
ing on a rocky shore at its commencement, we 
ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage was 
out of the question. So far as we could see, 
the jagged rocks pointed out the course of the 
caiion, on a winding line of seven or eight miles. 
It was simply a narrow, dark chasm in the rock ; 
and here the perpendicular faces were much 
higher than in the previous pass, being at this 
end two to three hundred, and further down, as 
we afterward ascertained, five hundred feet in. 
vertical height. Our previous success had made 
us bold, and we determined again to run the 
caiion. Every thing was secured as firmly as 
possible ; and, having divested ourselves of the 
greater part of our clothing, we pushed into the 
stream. To save our chronometer from accident, 
Mr. Preuss took it, and attempted to proceed 
along the shore on the masses of rock, which in 
places were piled up on either side ; but, after 
d 



98 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

he had walked about five minutes, every thing 
(ike shore disappeared, and the vertical wall 
came squarely down into the water. He there- 
fore waited until we came up. An ugly pass 
lay before us. We had made fast to the stern 
of the boat a strong rope ^about fifty feet long ; 
and three of the men clambered along among 
the roclvs, and with this rope let her down slowly 
through the pass. In several places high rocks 
lay scattered about in the channel ; and in the 
narrows it required all our strength and skill to 
avoid staving the boat on the sharp points. In 
one of these, the boat proved a little too broad, 
and stuck fast for an instant, while the water 
flew over us ; fortunately it was but for an instant, 
as our united strength forced her immediately 
through. The water swept overboard only a 
sextant and a pair of saddlebags. I caught the 
sextant as it passed by me ; but the saddlebags 
became the prey of the whirlpools. We reached 
the place where Mr. Preuss was standing, took 
him on board, and, with the aid of the boat, put 
the men with the rope on the succeeding pile of 
rocks. We found this passage much worse than 
the previous one, and our position was rather a 
bad one. To go back, was impossible ; before 
us, the cataract was a sheet of foam ; and, shut 
up in the chasm by the rocks, which in some 
places seemed almost to meet overhead, the roar 
of the water was deafening. We pushed off 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 99 

again; but, after making a little distance, the 
force of the current became too great for the 
men on shore, and two of them let go the rope. 
Lajeunesse, the third man, hung on, and was 
jerked headforemost into the river from a rock 
about twelve feet high y and down the boat shot 
like an arrow, Basil following us in the rapid 
current, and exerting all his strength to keep in 
raid channel — his head , only seen occasionally 
like a black spot in the white foam. How far 
w^e went, I do not exactly know ; but we suc- 
ceeded in turning the boat into an eddy below. 
' ' Cre DieUy said Basil Lajeunesse, as he arrived 
immediately after us, ' Je crois Men que fai nage 
im demi mile,^ — 'I believe, indeed, that I have 
swum half a mile.' *He had owed his life to his 
sldll as a swimmer; and I determined to take 
him and the others on board, and trust to skill 
and fortune to reach the other end in safety. 
We placed ourselves on our knees, with the 
short paddles in our hands, the most skilful 
boatman being at the bow ; and again we com- 
menced our rapid descent. We cleared rock 
after rock, and shot past fall after fall, our little 
boat seeming to play with the cataract. We be- 
came flushed with success and familiar with the 
danger ; and, yielding to the excitement of the oc- 
casion, broke forth together into a Canadian boat 
song. Singing, or rather shouting, we dashed 
along ; and were, I believe, in the midst of the 



100 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

chorus, when the boat struck a concealed rock 
immediately at the foot of a fall, which whuied 
her over in an instant. Three of my men could 
not swim, and my first feeling was to assist them, 
and save some of our effects ; but a sharp con- 
cussion or two convinced me that I had not yet 
saved myself. A few strokes brought me into 
an eddy, and I landed on a pile of rocks on the 
left side. Looking around, I saw that Mr. Preuss 
had gained the shore on the same side, about 
twenty yards below ; and a little climbing and 
swimming soon brought him to my side. On 
the opposite side, against the wall, lay the boat 
bottom up ; and Lambert was in the act of 
saving Descoteaux, whom he had grasped by the 
hair, and who could not swim ; 'Lache ])asj said 
he, as I afterward learned, ' lache pas^ clier frere^ 
— ' Don't let go, don't let go, dear brother.' ' Grains 
pas^ was the reply, '■Je rnJen vais mourir avant que 
de te Idcherj' — ' Fear not, I will die before I let 
you go.' Such was the reply of courage and 
generosity in this danger. For a hundred yards 
below, the current was covered with floating 
books and boxes, bales of blankets, and scattered 
articles of clothing; and so strong and boiling 
was the stream, that even our heavy instruments, 
which were all in cases, kept on the surface, and 
the sextant, circle, and the long black box of the 
telescope, were in view at once. For a moment, 
I felt somewhat disheartened. All our books — 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 101 

almost every record of the journey — our journals 
and registers of astronomical and barometiical 
observations — had been lost in a moment. But 
it was no time to indulge in regrets ; and I 
immediately set about endeavoring to save some- 
thing from the wreck. Making ourselves under- 
stood as well as possible by signs, (for nothing 
could be heard in the roar of waters,) we com- 
menced our operations. Of every thing on board, 
the only article that had been saved was my 
double-baiTclied gun, which Descoteaux had 
caught, and clung to with drowning tenacity. 
The men continued down the river on the left 
bank. Mr. Preuss and myself descended on the 
side we were on ;x and Lajeunesse, with a pad- 
dle in his hand, jumped on the boat alone, and 
continued down the caiion. She was now light, 
and cleared every bad place with much less 
difficulty. In a short time, he was joined by 
Lambert; and the search was continued for 
about a mile and a half, which was as far as the 
boat could proceed in the pass. 

" Here the walls were about five hundred feet 
high, and the fragments of rocks from above had 
choked the river into a hollow pass but one or 
two feet above the surface. Through this and 
the interstices of the rock, the water found its 
way. Favored beyond our expectations, all of 
our registers had been recovered, with the excep- 
tion of one of my journals, which contained the 

-9* 



102 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

notes and incidents of travel, and topographica, 
descriptions, a number of scattered astronomical 
observations, principally meridian altitudes of 
the sun, and our barometrical register west of 
Laramie. Fortunately, our other journals con- 
tained duplicates of the most important barome- 
trical observations which had been taken in the 
mountains. These, with a few scattered notes, 
were all that had been preserved of our meteoro- 
logical observations. In addition to these, we 
saved the circle ; and these, with a few blankets, 
constituted every thing that had been rescued 
from the waters. 

" The day was running rapidly away, and it 
was necessary to reach Goat Island, whither the 
party had preceded us, before night. In this 
uncertain country, the traveller is so much in the 
power of chance, that we became somewhat 
uneasy in regard to them. Should any thing 
have occurred, in the brief interval of our separa- 
tion, to prevent our rejoining them, our situation 
would be rather a desperate one. We had not 
a morsel of provisions — our arms and ammuni- 
tion were gone — and we were entirely at the 
mercy of any straggling party of savages, and 
not a little in danger of starvation. We there- 
fore set out at once in two parties. Mr. Preuss 
and myself on the left, and the men on the 
opposite side of the river. Climbing out of the 
canon, we found ourselves in a veiy broken 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 103 

country, where we were not yet able to rec- 
ognize any locality. In the course of our descent 
through the cailon, the rock, which at the upper 
end was of the decomposing granite, changed 
into a varied sandstone formation. The hills 
and points of the ridges were covered with frag- 
ments of a yellow sandstone, of which the strata 
were sometimes displayed in the broken ravines 
which interrupted our course, and made our 
walk extremely fatiguing. At one point of the 
caiion the red argillaceous sandstone rose in a 
wall of five hundred feet, surmounted by a stra- 
tum of white sandstone ; and in an opposite 
ravine a column of red sandstone rose, in form 
like a steeple, about one hundred and fifty feet 
high. The scenery was extremely picturesque, 
tind, notwithstanding our forlorn condition, we 
were frequently obliged to stop and admire it. 
Our progress was not very rapid. We had 
emerged from the water half naked, and, on 
arriving at the top of the precipice, I found 
myself with only one moccasin. The fi-agments 
of rock made walking painful, and I was fre- 
quently obliged to stop and pull out the thorns 
of the cactus, here the prevailing plant, and with 
which a few minutes' walk covered the bottom 
of my feet. From this ridge the river emerged 
into a smiling prairie, and, descending to the 
bank for water, we were joined by Benoist. The 
rest of the party were out of sight, having taken 



104 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

a more inland route. We crossed the river 
repeatedly — sometimes able to ford it, and some- 
times swimming — climbed over the ridges of 
two more canons, and towards evening reached 
the cut, which we here named the Hot Spring 
Gate. On our previous visit in July, we had not 
entered this pass, reserving it for our descent in 
the boat ; and when we entered it this evening, 
Mr. Preuss was a few hundred feet in advance. 
Heated with the long march, he came suddenly 
upon a fine bold spring gushing from the rock, 
about ten feet above the river. Eager to enjoy 
the crystal water, he threw himself down for a 
hasty draught, and took a mouthful of water 
almost boiling hot. He said nothing to Benoist, 
who laid himself down to drink ; but the steam 
from the water arrested his eagerness, and he 
escaped the hot draught. We had no ther- 
mometer to ascertain the temperature, but I 
could hold my hand in the water just long 
enough to count two seconds. There are eight 
or ten of these springs, discharging themselves 
by streams large enough to be called runs. A 
loud hollow noise was heard from the rock, 
which I supposed to be produced by the fall of 
the water. The strata immediately where they 
issue is a fine white and calcareous sandstone, 
covered with an incrustation of common salt. 
Leaving this Thermopylae of the West, in a short 
walk we reached the red ridge which has been 



NEBRASKA RIVER. 105 

described as lying just above Goat Island. 
Ascending this, we found some fresh tracks and 
a button, which showed that the other men had 
akeady arrived. A shout from the man who 
first reached the top of the ridge, responded to 
from below, informed us that our friends v^ere 
all on the island ; and we were soon among 
them. We found some pieces of buffalo stand- 
ing around the fire for us, and managed to get 
some dry clothes among the people. A sudden 
storm of rain drove us into the best shelter we 
could find, where we slept soundly, after one of 
the most fatiguing days I have ever experi- 
enced." 

A week afterwards, at a point of course much 
lower down, another attempt was made to sur- 
vey the river, which is thus described : — 

"At this place I had determined to make 
another attempt to descend the Platte by water, 
and accordingly spent two days in the construc- 
tion of a bull-boat. Men v/ere sent out on the 
evening of our arrival, the necessary number of 
bulls killed, and their skins brought to the camp. 
Four of the best of them were strongly sewed 
together with buffalo sinew, and stretched over 
a basket frame of willow. The seams were 
then covered with ashes and tallow, and the boat 
left exposed to the sun for the greater part of 
one day, which was sufficient to dry and con- 
tract the sldn, and make the whole work solid 



106 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and strong. It had a rounded bow, was eight 
feet long and five broad, and drew with four 
men about four inches water. On the morning 
of the 15th we embarked in our hide-boat, Mr. 
Preuss and myself, with two men. We dragged 
her over the sands for three or four miles, and 
then left her on a bar, and abandoned entirely 
all further attempts to navigate this river. The 
names given by the Indians are always remark- 
ably appropriate; and certainly none was ever 
more so than that which they have given to 
this stream — ' The Nebraska, or Shallow Eiver.' 
Walking steadily the remainder of the day, a 
little before dark we overtook our people at their 
evening camp, about twenty-one miles below 
the junction. The next morning we crossed the 
Platte, and continued our way down the river 
bottom on the left bank, where we found an 
excellent, plainly beaten road." 

On the morning of October 1, the cow-bells 
were heard at the break of day on the Missourian 
farms. St. Louis was reached on the 17th, and 
Lieut. Fremont reported himself to the chief of 
his corps at the city of Washington on the 23d 
of October. 



CHAPTER HI. 

SECOND EXPEDITION KANSAS SALT LAKE CO- 
LUMBIA RIVER CENTRAL BASIN SIERRA NE- 
VADA CALIFORNIA^KIT CARSON WAHSATCH* 

MOUNTAINS THREE PARKS. 

Early in the spring of 1843, Mr. Fremont 
started on his Second Expedition. His iiastruc- 
tions were to connect his explorations of the pre- 
ceding year with the surveys of Commander 
Wilkes on the coast of the Pacific, so as to give 
a connected view of the great interior tracts of 
the continent. 

The party was placed in a state of final prep- 
aration for its long march at the town of Kansas, 
near the junction of the river of that name with 
the Missouri. Mr. Thomas Fitzpatrick, whom 
an experience of many years' hardship and ex- 
posure in the western regions fitted for the post, 
was selected as guide, and proved of invalu- 
able service in all respects and at all times. 
Mr. Charles Preuss was attached to the expedi- 
tion in the same capacity as in the former one. 
Mr. Theodore Talbot, of Washington City, and 

(107) 



108 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Mr. Frederick Dwight, of Massachusetts, accom- 
panied the party. Jacob Dodson, a free young 
colored man of Washington City, who volun- 
teered for the service, was found most useful and 
worthy of confidence, in all the perils and trials 
of the journey to its end. L. Maxwell, who had 
accompanied the former expedition, and was on 
his way to Taos, joined the party at Kansas. 
Two Delaware Indians — a fine-looking old man 
and his son — were engaged as hunters. There 
were thirty-two men in the body of the party^ 
constituting in all forty persons besides the com 
mander. They w«3re generally armed with Hall\ • 
carbines, and took with them a brass twelve- 
pound howitzer. The hunters and Delawares 
had rifles. The camp equipage and provisions 
were transported in twelve carts, drawn each by 
two mules ; and a light, covered spring-wagon, 
well mounted, carried the instruments. 

The expedition started on the morning of the 
29th of May. A few days afterwards Mr. Gil- 
pin, of Missouri, joined it. Its route was along 
the line of the Kansas, to the mouth of the Re- 
publican Fork, which it followed some distance, 
and thence across the country to St. Vrain's 
Fort, on the south fork of the Platte, which it 
reached on the 4th of July. On the 6th it left 
St. Vrain's, and continued on up the Platte. On 
the 10th, snow fell heavily during tlie night on 
the mountains, and in the morning Pike's Peak 



ARKANSAS RIVER. 109 

was covered, from the summit as far down as 
it was visible, with glittering white, giving it a 
luminous and grand appearance. On the 14th 
the party reached the point where the Boiling 
Spring River enters the Arkansas. Here Fre- 
mont was delighted to meet and again secure 
the services of Kit Carson. Having discovered 
that it would not be possible to obtain supplies 
from Taos, he determined, without delay, to re- 
turn to St. Vrain's, having first despatched Car- 
son to procure, if possible, a reinforcement of 
mules from Mr. Charles Bent, whose post was 
about seventy-five miles lower down on the Ar- 
kansas, and rejoin him at St. Vrain's. On the 
16th the party resumed its journey up the Boil- 
ing Spring River, so called in consequence of 
some very remarkable springs, which Mr. Fre- 
mont visited the next day, and describes as fol- 
lows : — 

" Leaving the camp to follow slowly, I rode 
ahead in the afternoon in search of the springs. 
In the mean time the clouds, which had been 
gathered all the afternoon over the mountains, 
began to roll down their sides ; and a storm so 
violent burst upon me that it appeared I had 
entered the storehouse of the thunder-storms. I 
continued, however, to ride along up the river 
until about sunset, and was beginning to be 
doubtful of finding the springs before the next 
day, when I came suddenly upon a large smooth 

10 



110 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

rock about twenty yards in diameter, where the 
water from several springs was bubbling and 
boiling up in the midst of a white incrustation 
with which it had covered a portion of the rock. 
As this did not correspond with a description 
given me by the hunters, I did not stop to taste 
the water, but, dismounting, walked a little way 
up the river, and, passing through a narrow 
thicket of shrubbery bordering the stream, stepped 
directly upon a huge white rock, at the foot of 
which the river, already become a torrent, foamed 
along, broken by a small fall. A deer which had 
been drinking at the spring was startled by my 
approach, and, springing across the river, bound- 
ed off up the mountain. In the upper part of the 
rock, which had apparently been formed by de- 
position, was a beautiful white basin, overhung 
by currant-bushes, in which the cold, clear water 
bubbled up, kept in constant motion by the 
escaping gas, and overflowing the rock which it 
had almost entirely covered with a smooth crust 
of glistening white. I had all day refrained from 
drinking, reserving myself for the spring ; and as 
I could not well be more wet than the rain had 
already made me, I lay down by the side of the 
basin, and drank heartily of the delightful water. 
The water has a very agreeable taste, which 
Mr. Preuss found very much to resemble that of 
the famous Selter Springs in the grand-duchy of 
Nassau, a country famous for wine and mineral 



ARKANSAS RIVER. Ill 

waters;' and it is almost entirely of the same 
character, though still more agreeable than that 
of the famous Bear Springs, near Bear River of 
the Great Salt Lake. The following is an anal- 
ysis of an incrustation with which the water had 
covered a piece of wood lying on the rock : — 

Carbonate of lime .... 92.25 

Carbonate of magnesia . . . 1.21 

Sulphate of lime ^ 

Chloride of calcium > . . .23 

Chloride of magnesia ) 
* Silica * . 1.50 

Vegetable matter .... .20 

Moisture and loss .... 4.61 



100.00 



^' July 20. We continued our march up the 
stream along a green sloping bottom, between 
pine hills on the one hand, and the main Black 
Hills on the other, towards the ridge which separ- 
ates the waters of the Platte from those of the 
Arkansas. As we approached the dividing ridge, 
the whole valley was radiant with flowers ; blue, 
yellow, pink, white, scarlet, and purple vied with 
each other in splendor. Esparcette was one of 
the highly characteristic plants, and a bright- 
looking flower (gaillardia aristata) was very 
frequent ; but the most abundant plant along our 
road to-day was geranium maculatum, which is 
the characteristic plant on this portion of the 



112 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

dividing grounds. Crossing to the waters of the 
Platte, fields of blue flax added to the magnifi- 
cence of this mountain garden ; this was occa- 
sionally four feet in height, which was a luxu- 
riance of gTowth that I rarely saw this almost 
universal plant attain throughout the journey.'^ 

Mr. Fitzpatrick had been left behind a month 
before, to follow on with twenty-five men, and the 
heavier baggage of the expedition. 

" Reaching St. Vrain's Fort on the morning of 
the 23d, we found Mr. Fitzpatrick and his party 
in good order and excellent health, and my tru^ 
and reliable friend, Kit Carson, who had brought 
with him ten good mules with the necessary pack- 
saddles. Mr. Fitzpatrick, who had often endured 
every extremity of want during the course of his 
mountain life, and knew well the value of pro- 
visions in this country, had watched over our 
stock with jealous vigilance, and there was an 
abundance of flour, rice, sugar, and coffee in the 
camp ; and again we fared luxuriously. Meat 
was, however, very scarce ; and two very small 
pigs, which we obtained at the fort, did not go 
far among forty men. Mr. Fitzpatrick had been 
here a week, during which time his men had 
been occupied in refitting the camp ; and the 
repose had been very beneficial to his animals, 
which were now in tolerably good condition. 

" I had been able to obtain no certain informa 
tion in regard to the character of the passes in 



TRAPPERS. 113 

this portion of the Rocky Mountain range, which 
had always been represented as impracticable 
for carriages, but the exploration of which was 
incidentally contemplated by my instructions, 
with the view of finding some convenient point 
of passage for the road of emigration, which 
would enable it to reach, on a more du-ect line, 
the usual ford of the Great Colorado — a place 
considered as determined by the nature of the 
country beyond that river. It is singular, that, 
immediately at the foot of the mountains, I could 
find no one sufliiciently acquainted with them to 
guide us to the plains at their western base ; but 
the race of trappers who formerly lived in their 
recesses has almost entirely disappeared — dwin- 
dled to a few scattered individuals — some one 
or two of whom are regularly killed in the course 
of each year by the Indians. You will remem- 
ber that, in the previous year, I brought with me 
to their village near this post, and hospitably 
treated on the way, several Cheyenne Indians, 
whom I had met on the Lower Platte. Shortly 
after their arrival here, they were out with a 
party of Indians, (themselves the principal men,) 
which discovered a few trappers in the neigh- 
boring mountains, whom they immediately mur- 
dered, although one pf them had been nearly 
thirty years in the country, and was perfectly 
well known, as he had grown gray among 
them." 

• 10* 



114 LIEE OF FREMONT. 

Having determined to traverse the eastern side 
of the Medicine Bow Mountains to find, if pos- 
sible, a pass through them, Mr. Fremont again 
divided his party, sending Fitzpatrick with a 
large portion of it to the mouth of the Laramie, 
and thence by the usual emigrant route to Fort 
Hall, there to await his arrival. 

" Our Delaware Indians having determined to 
return to their homes, it became necessary to 
provide this party with a good hunter; and I 
accordingly engaged in that capacity Alexander 
Godey, a young man about twenty-five years of 
age, who had been in this country six or seven 
years, all of which time had been actively em- 
ployed in hunting for the support of the posts, or 
in solitary trading expeditions among the Indians. 
In courage and professional skill he was a for- 
midable rival to Carson, and constantly after- 
wards was among the best and most efficient of 
the party, and in difficult situations was of in- 
calculable value. 

" For my own party I selected the following 
men, a number of whom old associations ren- 
dered agreeabfe to me : — 

" Charles Preuss, Christopher Carson, Basil La- 
jeunesse, Francois Badeau, J. B. Bernier, Louis 
Menard, Raphael Proue, Jacob Dodson, Louis 
Zindel, Henry Lee, J. B. Derosier, Francois La- 
jeunesse, and Auguste Vasquez." 

Going through what is called the Medicine 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 115 

Butte Pass, Fremont followed the Platte and 
Sweetwater, and crossed the dividing ridge, 
along the southern border of the South Pass, 
which is about twenty miles in width. He 
then directed his course towards Bear River, a 
tributary of the Great Salt Lake on the north. 
Many of his animals died during this part of the 
tour, and it was not accomplished without con- 
siderable difficulty and hardship. 

On the 21st of August, they reached the fer- 
tile and picturesque valley of Bear River, the 
principal tributary of the Great Salt Lake. 

" We were now entering a region which, for 
us, possessed a strange and extraordinary in- 
terest. We were upon the waters of the fam- 
ous lake which forms a salient point among the 
remarkable geographical features of the coun- 
try, and around which the vague and supersti- 
tious accounts of the trappers had thrown a de- 
lightful obscurity, which we anticipated pleasure 
in dispelling, but which, in the mean time, left 
a crowded field for the exercise of our imagina- 
tion. 

" In our occasional conversations with the few 
1 Id hunters who had visited the region, it had 
been a subject of frequent speculation ; and the 
wonders which they related were not the less 
agreeable because they were highly exaggerated 
and impossible. 

" Hitherto this lake had been seen only by trap- 



116 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

pers, who were wandering through the country 
in search of new beaver streams, caring very 
little for geography ; its islands had never been 
visited ; and none were to be found who had 
entirely made the circuit of its shores ; and no 
instrumental observations, or geographical sur- 
vey of any description, had ever been made 
anywhere in the neighboring region. It was 
generally supposed that it had no visible outlet ; 
but among the trappers, including those in my 
own camp, were many who beheved that some- 
where on its surface was a terrible whirlpool, 
through which its waters found their way to the 
ocean by some subterranean communication. 
All these things had made a frequent subject of 
discussion in our desultory conversations around 
the fires at night ; and my own mind had be- 
come tolerably well filled with their indefinite 
pictures, and insensibly colored with their ro- 
mantic descriptions, which, in the pleasure of 
excitement, I was well disposed to believe, and 
half expected to realize. 

" In about six mUes' travel fi'om our encamp- 
ment, we reached one of the points in our jour- 
ney to which we had always looked forward 
with great interest — the famous Beer Springs, 
which, on account of the effervescing gas and 
acid taste, had received their name from the 
voyageurs and. trappers of the country, who, in 
the midst of their rude and hard lives, are fond 



GREAT SALT LAKE. IIY 

of finding some fancied resemblance to the 
luxm'ies they rarely have the good fortune to 
enjoy. 

" Although somewhat disappointed in the ex- 
pectations which various descriptions had led 
me to form of unusual beauty of situation and 
scenery, I found it altogether a place of very 
great interest ; and a traveller for the first time 
in a volcanic region remains in a constant ex- 
citement, and at every step is arrested by some- 
thing remarkable and new. There is a con- 
fusion of interesting objects gathered together 
in a small space. Around the place of encamp- 
ment the Beer Springs were numerous ; but, as 
far as we could ascertain, were entirely confined 
to that locality in the bottom. In the bed of 
the river, in front, for a space of several hundred 
yards, they were very abundant; the efferves- 
cing gas rising up and agitating the water in 
countless bubbling columns. In the vicinity 
round about were numerous springs of an en- 
tirely different and equally marked mineral char- 
acter. In a rather picturesque spot, about 1,300 
yards below our encampment, and immediately 
on the river bank, is the most remarkable spring 
of the place. In an opening on the rock, a 
white column of scattered water is thrown up, 
in form like a jet-d'eau, to a variable height of 
about three feet, and, though it is maintained in 
a constant supply, its greatest height is attained 



118 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

only at regular intervals, according to the action 
of the force below. It is accompanied by a 
subterranean noise, which, together with the 
motion of the water, makes very much the im- 
pression of a steamboat in motion ; and, with- 
out knowing that it had been already previously 
so called, we gave to it the name of the Steam- 
boat Spring. The rock through which it is 
forced is slightly raised in a convex manner, and 
gathered at the opening into an urn-mouthed 
form, and is evidently formed by continued de- 
position from the water, and colored bright red 
by oxide of iron. 

" It is a hot spring, and the water has a pun- 
gent and disagreeable metallic taste, leaving a 
burning effect on the tongue. Within perhaps 
two yards of the jet-d'eau^ is a small hole of 
about an inch in diameter, through which, at 
regular intervals, escapes a blast of hot air with 
a light wreath of smoke, accompanied by a reg- 
ular noise." 

As they approached the lake they passed 
over a country of bold and striking scenery, and 
through several "gates," as they called certain 
narrow valleys. The " standing rock" is a huge 
column, occupying the centre of one of these 
passes. It feU from a height of perhaps 3,000 
feet, and happened to remain in its present up- 
right position. 

At last, on the 6th of September, the object 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 119 

for which their eyes had long been straining, 
was brought to view. 

" SejH. 6. This time we reached the butte 
without any difficulty; and, ascending to the 
summit, immediately at our feet beheld the ob- 
ject of our anxious search, the waters of the 
Inland Sea, stretching in still and solitary gran- 
deur far beyond the limit of our vision. It was 
one of the great points of the exploration ; and 
as we looked eagerly over the lake in the first 
emotions of excited pleasure, I am doubtful if 
the followers of Balboa felt more enthusiasm 
when, from the heights of the Andes, they saw 
for the fii'st time the great Western Ocean. It 
was certainly a magnificent object, and a noble 
terminus to this part of our expedition ; and to 
travellers so long shut up among mountain 
ranges, a sudden view over the expanse of silent 
waters had in it something sublime. Several 
large islands raised their high rocky heads out of 
the waves ; but whether or not they were timbered 
was still left to our imagination, as the distance 
was too great to determine if the dark hues upon 
them were woodland or nailed rock. During the 
day the clouds had been gathering black over the 
mountains to the westward, and while we were 
looking a storm burst down with sudden fury 
upon the lake, and entkely hid the islands from 
our view. 

" On the edge of the stream a favorable spot 



120 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

was selected in a grove ; and, felling the timber, 
we made a strong coral^ or horse-pen, for the an- 
imals, and a little fort for the people who were 
to remain. We were now probably in the coun- 
try of the Utah Indians, though none reside 
upon the lake. The India-rubber boat was re- 
paired with prepared cloth and gum, and filled 
with air, in readiness for the next day. 

" The provisions which Carson had brought 
with him being now exhausted, and our stock 
reduced to a small quantity of roots, I deter-r 
mined to retain with me only a sufficient num^ 
ber of men for the execution of our design ; and 
accordingly seven were sent back to Fort Hall, 
under the guidance of Frangois Lajeunesse, who, 
having been for many years a trapper in the 
country, was an experienced mountaineer. 

" We formed now but a small family. With 
Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, Bernier, and 
Basil Lajeunesse had been selected for the boat 
expedition — the first ever attempted on this inte- 
rior sea; and Badeau, with Derosier, and Jacob, 
(the colored man,) were to be left in charge of 
the camp. We were favored with most delight- 
ful weather. To-night there was a brilliant sun- 
set of golden orange and green, which left the 
western sky clear and beautifully pure ; but 
clouds in the east made me lose an occultation. 
The summer frogs were singing around us, and 
the evening was very pleasant, with a tempera- 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 121 

ture of 60° — a night of a more southern autumn. 
For our supper we had yanipah, the most agree- 
ably flavored of the roots, seasoned by a small 
fat duck, which had come in the way of Jacob's 
rifle. Around our fire to-night were many spec- 
ulations on what to-morrow would bring forth ; 
and in our busy conjectures we fancied that we 
•should find every one of the large islands a tan- 
gled wilderness of trees and shrubbery, teeming 
with game of every description that the neigh- 
boring region afforded, and which the foot of a 
white man or Indian had never violated. Fre- 
quently, during the day, clouds had rested on 
the summits of their lofty mountains, and we 
believed that we should find clear streams and 
springs of fresh water ; and we indulged in an- 
ticipations of the luxurious repasts with which 
we were to indemnify ourselves for past priva- 
tions. Neither, in our discussions, were the 
whirlpool and other mysterious dangers forgot- 
ten, which Indian and hunters' stories attributed 
to this unexplored lake. The men had discov- 
ered that, instead of being strongly sewed, (like 
that of the preceding year, which had so triumph- 
antly rode the caiions of the Upper Great Platte,) 
our present boat was only pasted together in a 
very insecure manner, the maker having been 
allowed so little time in the construction that he 
was obliged to crowd the labor of two months 
into several days. The insecurity of the boat 
11 



122 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

was sensibly felt by us ; and, mingled with the 
enthusiasm and excitement that we all felt at the 
prospect of an undertaking which had never be- 
fore been accomplished, was a certain impression 
of danger, sufficient to give a serious character 
to our conversation. The momentary view 
which had been had of the lake the day before, 
its great extent and rugged islands, dimly seen* 
amidst the dark waters in the obscurity of the 
sudden storm, were well calculated to heighten 
the idea of undefined danger with which the 
lake was generally associated. 

" Sept. 8. A calm, clear day, with a sunrise 
temperature of 41°. In view of our present en- 
terprise, a part of the equipment of the boat had 
been made to consist of three air-tight bags, 
about three feet long, and capable each of con- 
taining five gallons. These had been filled with 
water the night before, and were now placed iu 
the boat, with our blankets and instruments, con- 
sisting of a sextant, telescope, spy-glass, ther- 
mometer, and barometer. 

" In the course of the morning we disco veered 
that two of the cylinders leaked so much as to 
require one man constantly at the bellows, to 
keep them sufficiently full of air to support the 
boat. Although we had made a very early start, 
we loitered so much on the way — stopping every 
now and then, and floating silently along, to get 
a shot at a goose or a duck — that it was late in 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 123 

the day when we reached the outlet. The rivei 
here divided into several branches, filled with 
fluvials, and so very shallow that it was with 
difficulty we could get the boat along, being 
obliged to get out and wade. We encamped on 
a low point among rushes and young willows, 
where there was a quantity of driftwood, which 
served for our fires. The evening was mild and 
clear ; we made a pleasant bed of the yojang 
willows ; and geese and ducks enough had been 
killed for an abundant supper at night, and for 
breakfast next morning. The stillness of the 
night was enlivened by millions of water-fowl. 

" September 9. The day was clear and calm ; 
the thermometer at sunrise at 49.° As is usual 
with the ti'appers on the eve of any enterprise, 
our people had made dreams, and theirs hap- 
pened to be a bad one — one which always pre- 
ceded evil — and consequently they looked very 
gloomy this morning ; but we hmTied through 
our breakfast, in order to make an early start, 
and have all the day before us for our adventure. 
The channel in a short distance became so shal- 
low that our navigation was at an end, being 
merely a sheet of soft mud, with a few inches of 
water, and sometimes none at all, forming the 
low-water shore of the lake. AU this place was 
absolutely covered with flocks of screaming 
plover. We took off our clothes, and, getting 
overboard, commenced dragging the boat — mak- 



124 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

ing, by this operation, a very curious trail, and a 
very disagreeable smell in stirring up the mud 
as we sank above the knee at every step. The 
water here was still fresh, with only an insipid 
and disagreeable taste, probably derived from the 
bed of fetid mud. After proceeding in this way 
about a mile, we came to a small black ridge on 
the bottom, beyond which the water became sud 
denly salt, beginning gradually to deepen, and 
the bottom was sandy and firm. It was a re- 
markable division, separating the fresh water of 
the rivers from the briny water of the lake, which 
was entirely saturated with common salt. Push- 
ing our little vessel across the narrow boundary, 
we sprang on board, and at length were afloat 
on the waters of the unknown sea. 

" We did not steer for the mountainous is- 
lands, but directed our course towards a lower 
one, which it had been decided we should first 
visit, the summit of which was formed like the 
crater at the upper end of Bear River valley. So 
long as we could touch the bottom with our 
paddles, we were very gay ; but gradually, as 
the water deepened, we became more still in our 
frail batteau of gum cloth distended with air, 
and with pasted seams. Although the day was 
very calm, there was a considerable swell on the 
lake ; and there were white patches of foam on 
the surface, which were slowly moving to the 
southward, indicating the set of a current in that 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 125 

direction, and recalling the recollection of the 
whirlpool stories. The water continued to 
deepen as we advanced; the lake becoming 
almost transparently clear, of an extremely 
beautiful bright-green color; and the spray, 
which was thrown into the boat and over our 
clothes, was directly converted into a crust of 
common salt, which covered also our hands and 
arms. ' Captain,' said Carson, who for some 
time had been looking suspiciously at some 
whitening appearances outside the nearest is- 
lands, ' what are those yonder ? — won't you just 
take a look with the glass ? ' We ceased pad- 
dling for a moment, and found them to be the 
caps of the waves that were beginning to break 
under the force of a strong breeze that was com- 
ing up the lake. The form of the boat seemed 
to be an admirable one, and it rode on the waves 
like a water bird ; but, at the same time, it was 
extremely slow in its progress. When we were 
a little more than half-way across the reach, two 
of the divisions between the cylinders gave way, 
and it required the (Constant use of the bellows 
to keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a 
long time we scarcely seemed to approach our 
island, but gradually we worked across the 
rougher sea of the open channel, into the 
smoother water under the lee of the island ; and 
began to discover that what we took for a long 
row of pelicans, ranged on the beach, were only 
11* • 



126 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

low cliffs whitened with salt by the spray of the 
waves; and about noon we reached the shore, 
the transparency of the water enabling us to see 
the bottom at a considerable depth. 

" The cliffs and masses of rock along the shore 
were whitened by an incrustation of salt where 
the waves dashed up against them ; and the 
evaporating water, which had been left in holes 
and hollows on the surface of the rocks, was 
covered with a crust of salt about one eighth of 
an inch in thickness. 

" Carrying with us the barometer and other 
instruments, in the afternoon we ascended to 
the highest point of the island — a bare rocky 
peak, 800 feet above the lake. Standing on the 
summit, we enjoyed an extended view of the 
lake, enclosed in a basin of rugged mountains, 
which sometimes left marshy flats and extensive 
bottoms between them and the shore, and in 
other places came directly down into the water 
with bold and precipitous bluffs. 

" As we looked over the vast expanse of water 
spread out beneath us, and strained our eyes 
along the silent shores over which hung so much 
doubt and uncertainty, and which were so full 
of "interest to us, I could hardly repress the 
almost irresistible desire to continue our explora- 
tion ; but the lengthening snow on the moun- 
tains was a plain indication of the advancing 
season, and our frail linen boat appeared so 

m 



GREAT SALT LAKE. 127 

insecure that I was unwilling to trust our lives 
to the uncertainties of the lake. I therefore 
unwillingly resolved to terminate our survey 
here, and remain satisfied for the present with 
what we had been able to add to the unknown 
geography of the region. We felt pleasure also 
in remembering that we were the first who, in 
the traditionary annals of the country, had 
visited the islands, and broken, with the cheer- 
ful sound of human voices, the long solitude of 
the place. 

" I accidentally left on the summit the brass 
cover to the object end of my spy- glass ; and as 
it will probably remain there undisturbed by 
Indians, it will fm*nish matter of speculation to 
some future traveller. In our excursions about 
the island, we did not meet with any kind of 
animal ; a magpie, and another larger bird, prob- 
ably attracted by the smoke of our fire, paid 
us a visit from the shore, and were the only 
living things seen during our stay. The rock 
constituting the cliffs along the shore where we 
were encamped, is a talcous rock, or steatite, 
with brown spar. 

" At sunset, the temperature was 70°. We 
had arrived just in time to obtain a meridian 
altitude of the sun, and other observations were 
obtained this evening, which place our camp in 
latitude 41° 10' 42^', and .longitude 112° 21' 05'- 
from Greenwich. From a discussion of the 



128 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

barometrical observations made during our stay 
on the shores of the lake, we have adopted 
4,200 feet for its elevation above the gulf of 
Mexico. In the first disappointment we felt 
from the dissipation of our dream of the fertile 
islands, I called this Disappointment Island. 

" Out of the driftwood, we made ourselves 
pleasant little lodges, open to the water, and, 
after having kindled large fires to excite the 
wonder of any straggling savage on the lake 
shores, lay down, for the first time in a long 
journey, in perfect security ; no one thinking 
about his arms. The evening was extremely 
bright and pleasant ; but the wind rose during 
the night, and the waves began to break heavily 
on the shore, making our island tremble. I had 
not expected in our inland journey to hear the 
roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of 
our situation, and the excitement we felt in the 
associated interests of the place, made this one 
of the most interesting nights I remember during 
our long expedition. 

" In the morning, the surf was breaking heavily 
on the shore, and we were up early. The lake 
was dark and agitated, and we hurried through 
our scanty breakfast, and embarked — having 
first fiUed one of the buckets with water from 
the lake, of which it was intended to make salt. 
The sun had risen by ■ the time we were ready 
to start ; and it was blowing a strong gale of 



COLUMBIA RIVER. 129 

wind, almost directly off the shore, and raising 
a considerable sea, in which our boat strained 
very much. It roughened as we got away from 
the island, and it required all the efforts of the 
men to make any head against the wind and 
sea ; the gale rising with the sun ; and there 
was danger of being blown into one of the open 
reaches beyond the island. At the distance of 
half a mile from the beach, the depth of water 
was 16 feet, with a clay bottom ; but, as the 
working of the boat was very severe labor, and 
during the operation of sounding it was neces- 
sary to cease paddling, during which the boat 
lost considerable way, I was unwilling to dis- 
courage the men, and reluctantly gave up my 
intention of ascertaining the depth, and the 
character of the bed. There was a general 
shout in the boat when we found ourselves in 
one fathom, and we soon after landed." 

On the afternoon of the 12th they started 
from their Salt Lake encampment, for the 
Columbia River, and reached Fort Hall on the 
18th, at sunset. Here the party was again 
united, and preparations were made to push on 
to the Columbia. 

" The early approach of winter, and the diffi- 
culty of supporting a large party, determined me 
to send back a number of the men who had 
become satisfied that they were not fitted for 
the laborious service and frequent privation to 



130 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

which they were necessarily exposed, and which 
there was reason to believe would become more 
severe in the further extension of the voyage. I 
accordingly called them together, and, informing 
them of my intention to continue our journey 
during the ensuing winter, in the course of 
which they would probably be exposed to con- 
siderable hardship, succeeded in prevailing upon 
a nuqjber of them to return voluntarily. These 
were : Charles De Forrest, Henry Lee, J. Camp- 
bell, Wm. Creuss, A. Vasquez, A. Pera, Patrick 
"White, B. Tesson, M. Creely, Francois Lajeu- 
nesse, Basil Lajeunesse. Among these, I re- 
gretted very much to lose Basil Lajeunesse, 
one of the best men in my party, who was 
obliged, by the condition of his family, to be at 
lome in the coming winter." 

Fremont, with the residue of his party, started 
on the 23d of September, and pursued, for the 
most part, the course of the Snake River, or 
Lewis's Fork, and came in sight of the Colum- 
bia on the 2oth of October, at the junction of 
the Wahlahwahlah, where it was twelve hun- 
dred yards wide. On the 4th of November they 
reached the Dalles of the Columbia, so called 
from the trough-like aspect of the narrow chasm, 
at one place only fifty-eight yards wide, through 
which the great river passes between perpendic- 
ular walls of basaltic rock of an average height 
of twenty-five feet. From the Dalles to Fort 



COLUMBIA RIVER. 181 

Vancouver the route was pursued in a canoe, 
Fremont, Preuss, Bernier, and Dodson, with three 
Indians to whom the canoe belonged, constitut- 
ing the party. The remainder were left in charge 
of Carson. 

After collecting at the fort the necessary pro- 
visions and supplies to refit and support his 
party during the winter journey on which they 
were about to enter, — in which he was aided by 
the cordial cooperation of Dr. McLaughlin, the 
executive officer of the Hudson Bay Company, 
— he started on his return to the Dalles in 
the afternoon of November 10, his flotilla 
consisting of a Mackinaw barge and three 
canoes. 

'-'-November 13. We had a day of disagree- 
able and cold rain, and late in the afternoon 
began to approach the rapids of the cascades. 

" The current was now very swift, and we were 
obliged to cor dell e the boat along the left shore, 
where the bank was covered with large masses 
of rocks. Night overtook us at the upper end 
of the island, a short distance below the cas- 
cades, and we halted on the open point. In the 
mean time, the lighter canoes, paddled altogether 
by Indians, had passed ahead, and were out of 
sight. With them was the lodge, which was the 
only shelter we had, with most of the bedding 
and provisions. We shouted, and fired guns, 
but all to no purpose, as it was impossible foi 



132 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

them to hear above the roar of the river ; and 
we remained all night without shelter, the rain 
pouring down all the time. The old voyageurs 
did not appear to mind it much, but covered 
themselves up as well as they could, and lay 
down on the sand-beach, where they remained 
quiet until morning. The rest of us spent a 
rather miserable night ; and, to add to our dis- 
comfort, the incessant rain extinguished our fires 
and we were glad when at last daylight ap- 
peared, and we again embarked. 

" Crossing to the right bank, we cordelled the 
boat along the shore, there being no longer any 
use for the paddles, and put into a little bay be- 
low the upper rapids. Here we found the lodge 
pitched, and about twenty Indians sitting around 
a blading fire within, making a luxurious break- 
fast with salmon, bread, butter, sugar, coffee, and 
other provisions. In the forest, on the edge of 
the high bluff overlooking the river, is an Indian 
graveyard, consisting of a collection of tombs, 
in each of which were the scattered bones of 
many skeletons. The tombs were made of 
boards, which were ornamented with many fig- 
ures of men and animals of the natural size, — 
from their appearance constituting the armorial 
device by which, among Indians, the chiefs are 
usually known. 

*' The masses of rock displayed along the shores 
of the ravine in the neighborhood of the cas- 



COLUMBIA RIVER. 133 

cades, are clearly volcanic products. Between 
this cove, Y\^hich I called Graveyard Bay, and 
another spot of smooth water above on the right 
called LiJders Bay, sheltered by a jutting point 
of huge rocky masses at the foot of the cascades, 
the shore along the intervening rapids is lined 
with precipices of distinct strata of red and vari- 
ously colored lavas in inclined positions. 

" A gentleman named LiJders, a botanist, from 
the city of Hamburg, arrived at the bay I have 
called by his name while we were occupied 
in bringing up the boats. I was delighted to 
meet at such a place a man of kindred pursuits ; 
but we had only the pleasure of a brief conver- 
sation, as his canoe, under the guidance of two 
Indians, was about to run the rapids ; and I 
could not enjoy the satisfaction of regaling him 
with a breakfast which, after his recent journey, 
would have been an extraordinary luxury. All 
of his few instruments and baggage were in the 
canoe, and he hurried around by land to meet it 
at the Graveyard Bay ; but he was scarcely out 
of sight, when, by the carelessness of the In- 
dians, the boat was dxawn into the midst of 
the rapids, and glanced down the river, bottom 
up, with the loss of every thing it contained. 
In the natural concern I felt for his misfortune, 
I gave to the little cove the name of Liiders Bay. 

^^Novemher 15. We continued to-day our 
work at the portage." 

12 



134 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

In the afternoon of Nov. 18, they reached 
the Dalles. The camp was immediately busy 
with the last preparations for a journey through 
the unexplored regions between the Columbia 
River and California, and embracing the central 
basin of the continent between the Rocky Moun- 
tains and the Sierra Nevada. It was not origi- 
nally designed to cross the latter, but to turn 
homewards over the Rocky Mountains, at some 
pass near the head waters of the Arkansas. 

" This was our projected line of return — a great 
part of it absolutely new to geographical, botani- 
cal, and geological science — and the subject of 
reports in relation to lakes, rivers, deserts, and 
savages hardly above the condition of mere wild 
animals, which inflamed desire to know what 
this terra incognita really contained. It was a 
serious enterprise, at the commencement of win- 
ter, to undertake the traverse of such a region, 
and with a party consisting only of twenty-five 
persons, and they of many nations — American, 
French, German, Canadian, Indian, and colored 
— and most of them young, several being under 
twenty-one years of age. AU knew that a 
strange country was to be explored, and dangers 
and hardships to be encountered; but no one 
blenched at the prospect. On the contrary, 
courage and confidence animated the whole 
party. Cheerfulness, readiness, subordination, 
prompt obedience, characterized all ; nor did any 



CENTRAL BASIN. 135 

i 

extjemity of peril and privation, to which we 
were aftenvards exposed, ever belie, or derogate 
from, the fine spirit of this brave and generous 
commencement. The course of the narrative 
will show at what point, and for what reasons, 
we were prevented from the complete execution 
of this plan, after having made considerable pro- 
gress upon it, and how we were forced by desert 
plains, and mountain ranges, and deep snows, far 
to the south and near to the Pacific ocean, and 
along the western base of the Sien'a Nevada ; 
where, indeed, a new and ample field of explora- 
tion opened itself before us. For the present, 
we must follow the narrative, which will first lead 
us south along the valley of Fall River, and the 
eastern base of the Cascade range, to the Tla- 
math lake, from which, or its margin, three rivers 
go in three directions — one west, to the ocean ; 
another north, to the Columbia ; the third south, 
to California. 

" For the support of the party, I had provided 
at Vancouver a supply of provisions for not less 
than three months, consisting principally of flour, 
peas, and tallow — the latter being used in cook- 
ing ; and, in addition to this, I had purchased at 
the mission some California cattle, which were to 
be driven on the hoof. We had 104 mules and 
horses — part of the latter procured from the In- 
dians about the mission ; and for the sustenance 
of which, our reliance was upon the grass which 



136 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

we should find, and the soft porous wood, which 
was to be its substitute when there was none. 

" Mr. Perkins succeeded in obtaining as guide 
to the Tlamath lake two Indians, one of whom 
had been there, and bore the marks of several 
wounds he had received from some of the Indians 
in the neighborhood ; and the other went along 
for company. In order to enable us to obtain 
horses, he despatched messengers to the various 
Indian villages in the neighborhood, informing 
them that we were desirous to purchase, and 
appointing a day for them to bring them in. 

" We made, in the mean time, several excur- 
sions in the vicinity. Mr. Perkins walked with 
Mr. Preuss and myself to the heights, about nine 
miles distant on the opposite side of the river; 
whence, in fine weather, an extensive view may 
be had over the mountains, including seven greai 
peaks of the Cascade range ; but clouds, on this 
occasion, destroyed the anticipated pleasure, and 
we obtained bearings only to three that were 
visible — Mount Regnier, St. Helens, and Mount 
Hood. On the heights, about one mile south of 
the mission, a very fine view may be had of 
Mount Hood and St. Helens. In order to de- 
termine their positions with as much accuracy 
as possible, the angular distances of the peaks 
were measured with the sextant, at different 
fixed points from which they could be seen. 

" The Indians brought in their horses at the 



CENTRAL BASIN. 137 

appointed time, and we succeeded in obtaining 
a number in exchange for goods ; but they were 
relatively much higher here, where goods are 
plenty and at moderate prices, than we had found 
them in the more eastern part of our voyage. 
Several of the Indians inquired very anxiously 
to know if we had any dollars ; and the horses 
we procured were much fewer in number than I 
had desired, and of thin, inferior quality; the 
oldest and poorest being those that were sold to 
us. These horses, as ever in our journey you 
will have occasion to remark, are valuable for 
hardihood and great endurance. 

" November 24. At this place one of the men 
was discharged ; and at the request of ]\Ir. Perkins, 
a Chinook Indian, a lad of nineteen, who was 
extremely desirous to " see the whites," and 
make some acquaintance with our institutions, 
was received into the party under my especial 
charge, with the understanding that I would 
again return him to his friends. He had lived 
for some time in the household of Mr. Perkins, 
and spoke a few words of the English language. 

" November 25. We were all up early, in the 
excitement of turning towards home. The stars 
were brilliant, and the morning cold, the ther- 
mometer at daylight 26^. 

Our preparations had been finally completed, 
and to-day we commenced our journey. The 
Uttle wagon which had hitherto carried the in- 
12* 



138 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

struments, I judged it necessary to abandon; 
and it was accordingly presented to the mission. 
In all our long travelling, it had never been over- 
turned or injured by any accident of the road ; 
and the only things broken were the glass lamps, 
and one of the front panels, which had been 
kicked out by an unruly Indian horse. The 
howitzer was the only wheeled carriage now re- 
maining. We started about noon, when the 
weather had become disagreeably cold, with flur- 
ries of snow. Our friend Mr. Perkins, w^hose 
kindness had been active and efficient during 
our stay, accompanied us several miles on our 
road ; when he bade us farewell, and consigned 
us to the care of our guides. 

" November 27. A fine view of Mount Hood 
this morning; a rose-colored mass of snow, 
bearing S. 85° W. by compass. The sky is 
clear, and the air cold ; the thermometer 2°. 5 . 
below zero ; the trees and bushes glittering white, 
and the rapid stream filled with floating ice." 

No one can have an adequate idea of the suf- 
ferings endured, the obstacles encountered, the 
perilous adventures, and fearful experiences, in 
this journey, without reading the whole of Fre- 
mont's Report, referring from point to point to 
the geography of the country, as exhibited on 
the map, drawn from his surveys, by his associate 
Charles Preuss, in 1848, under an order of the 
Senate of the United States. Of course, in such 



CENTRAL BASIN. 139 

a work as this, only glimpses can be given of 
what the heroic party went through ; and thai 
can best be done in extracts frOm the Report of 
its commander. 

^'"December 14. Our road was over a broad 
mountain, and we rode seven hours in a thick 
snowstorm, always through pine forests, when 
we came down upon the head waters of another 
stream, on which there was grass. The snow 
lay deep on the ground, and only the high 
swamp grass appeared above. The Indians 
were thinly clad, and I had remarked during the 
day that they suffered from the cold. This 
evening they told me that the snow was getting 
too deep on the mountain, and I could not in- 
duce them to go any further. The stream we 
had struck issued from the mountain in an 
easterly direction, turning to the southward a 
short distance below ; and, drawing its course 
upon the ground, they made us comprehend 
that it pursued its way for a long distance in 
that direction, uniting with many other sti-eams, 
and gradually becoming a great river. Without 
the subsequent information which confirmed 
the opinion, we became immediately satisfied 
that this water formed the principal stream of 
the Sacramento River ; and, consequently, that 
this main affluent of the Bay of San Francisco 
had its source within the limits of the United 
States, and opposite a tributary to the Colum- 



140 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

bia, and near the head of the Tlamath River 
which goes to the ocean north of 42*^, and within 
the United States. 

'•^December 15. A present consisting of useful 
goods afforded much satisfaction to our guides ; 
and, showing them the national flag, I explained 
that it was a symbol of our nation ; and they 
engaged always to receive it in a friendly man- 
ner. The chief pointed out a course, by fol- 
lowing which we "would arrive at the big water, 
where no more snow was to be found. Cross- 
ing a hard frozen swamp on the further side of 
the Rond, we entered again the pine forest, in 
which very deep snow made our travelling slow 
and laborious. We were slowly but gradually 
ascending a mountain ; and, after a hard jour- 
ney of seven hours, we came to some naked 
places among the timber, where a few tufts of 
grass showed above the snow, on the side of a 
hollow ; and here we encamped. Our cow, 
which every day got poorer, was killed here, but 
the meat was rather tough. 

" December 16. We travelled this morning 
through snow about three feet deep, which, be- 
ing crusted, very much cut the feet of our ani- 
mals. The mountain still gradually rose ; we 
crossed several spring heads covered with quak- 
ing asp, otherwise it was all pine forest. The 
air was dark with falling snow, which every- 
where weighed down the trees. The depths of 



I 



CENTRAL BASIN. 141 

the forest were profoundly still ; and below, we 
scarce felt a breath of the wind which whirled 
the snow through their branches. I found that 
it reqmred some exertion of constancy to ad- 
here steadily to one course through the woods, 
when we were uncertain how far the forest ex- 
tended, or what lay beyond ; and, on account of 
our animals, it would be bad to spend another 
night on the mountain. Towards noon the 
forest looked clear ahead, appearing suddenly to 
terminate ; and beyond a certain point we could 
see no trees. Riding rapidly ahead to this spot, 
we found ourselves on the verge of a vertical 
and rocky wall of the mountain. At our feet — 
more than a thousand feet below — we looked 
into a green prairie country, in which a beau- 
tiful lake, some twenty miles in length, was 
spread along the foot of the mountains, its 
shores bordered with green grass. Just then the 
sun broke out among the clouds, and illumi- 
nated the country below, while around us the 
storm raged fiercely. Not a particle of ice was 
to be seen on the lake, or snow on its borders, 
and all was like summer or spring. The glow 
of the sun in the valley below brightened up 
our hearts with sudden pleasure ; and we made 
the woods ring with joyful shouts to those be- 
hind ; and gradually, as each came up, he stop- 
ped to enjoy the unexpected scene. Shivering 
on snow three feet deep, and stiffening in a cold 



142 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

north wind, we exclaimed at once that the 
names of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge 
should be applied to these two proximate places 
of such sudden and violent contrast. 

" "We were now immediately on the verge of 
the forest land, in which we had been travelling 
so many days ; and looking forward to the east, 
scarce a tree was to be seen. Viewed from our 
elevation, the face of the country exhibited only- 
rocks and grass, and presented a region in 
which the artemisia became the principal wood, 
furnishing to its scattered inhabitants fuel for 
their fires, building material for their huts, and 
shelter for the small game which ministers to 
their hunger and nakedness. Broadly marked 
by the boundary of the mountain wall, and 
immediately below us, were the first wate:.s of 
that Great Interior Basin which has the Wah- 
satch and Bear River mountains for its eastern, 
and the Sierra Nevada for its western rim ; and 
the edge of which we had entered upwards of 
three months before at the Great Salt Lake. 

" When we had sufficiently admired the 
scene below, we began to think about descend- 
ing, which here was impossible, and we turned 
towards the north, travelling always along the 
rocky wall. We continued on for four or five 
mUes, making ineffectual attempts at several 
places ; and at length succeeded in getting 
down at one which was extremely difficult of 




1 



iiiil 






I '< 



,l!i o;' 



lill ' •' 



CENTRAL BASm. 143 

descent. Night had closed in before the fore- 
most had reached the bottom, and it was dark 
before we all found ourselves together in the 
valley. There were three or four half-dead dry 
cedar-trees on the shore, and those who first 
amved kindled bright fires to light on the others. 
One of the mules rolled over and over two or 
three hundred feet into a ravine, but recovered 
himself, without any other injury than to his 
pack; and the howitzer was left midway the 
mountain until morning. 

" January 10. We continued our reconnois- 
sance ahead, pursuing a south direction in the 
basin along the ridge ; the camp following slowly 
after. On a large trail there is never any doubt 
of finding suitable places for encampments. We 
reached the end of the basin, where we found, 
in. a hollow of the mountain which enclosed it, 
^ an abundance of good bunch grass. Leaving a 
signal for the party to encamp, we continued 
our way up the hollow, intending to see what 
lay beyond the mountain. The hollow was 
several miles long, forming a good pass, the 
snow deepening to about a foot as we neared 
the summit. Beyond, a defile between the 
mountains descended rapidly about two thou- 
sand feet ; and, filling up all the lower space, 
was a sheet of green water, some twenty miles 
broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. 
The neighboring peaks rose high above ns, and 



144 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

we ascended one of them to obtain a better view 
The waves were curling in the breeze, and their 
dark-green color showed it to be a body of deep 
water. For a long time we sat enjoying the 
view, for we had become fatigued with moun- 
tains, and the free expanse of moving waves was 
very grateful. It was set in the midst of the 
mountains, which, from our position, seemed to 
enclose it almost entirely. At the western end 
it communicated with the line of basins we had 
left a few days since ; and on the opposite side 
it swept a ridge of snowy mountains, the foot 
of the Great Sierra. Its position at first inclined 
us to believe it Mary's Lake, but the rugged 
mountains were so entirely discordant with de- 
scriptions of its low rushy shores and open 
country, that we concluded it some unknown 
body of water ; which it afterwards proved to 
be. 

" Towards evening the snow began to fall 
heavily, and the country had a wintry appear- 
ance. 

" The next morning the snow was rapidly 
melting under a warm sun. Part of the morning 
was occupied in bringing up the gun ; and, 
making only nine miles, we encamped on the 
shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the 
lake, which had attracted our attention for many 
miles. It rose, according to our estimate, 600 
feet above the water ; and, from the point W8 



CENTRAL BASIN. 145 

viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the 
great pyramid of Cheops. Like other rocks 
along the shore, it seemed to be incrusted with 
calcareous cement. This striking feature sug- 
gested a name for the lake ; and I called it 
Pyramid Lake. 

" January 29. The other division of the party 
did not come in to-night, but e*ncamped in the 
upper meadow, and arrived the next morning. 
They had not succeeded in getting the howitzer 
beyond the place mentioned, and where it had 
been left by jMr. Preuss in obedience to my 
orders ; and, in anticipation of the snow-banks 
and snow-fields still ahead, foreseeing the inevi- 
table detention to which it would subject us, I 
reluctantly determined to leave it there for the 
time. It was .of the kind invented by the French 
for the mountain part of their war in Algiers ; 
and the distance it had come with us, proved 
how well it was adapted to its purpose. We 
left it, to the great sorrow of the whole party, 
who were grieved to part with a companion 
which had made the whole distance from St. 
Louis, and commanded respect for us on some 
critical occasions, and which might be needed 
for the same purpose again. 

" February 2. It had ceased snowing, and 
this morning the lower air was clear and frosty ; 
and six or seven thousand feet above, the peaks 
of the Sierra now and then appeared among the 

13 



146 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

rolling clouds, which were rapidly dispersing be« 
fore the sun. Our Indian shook his head as he 
pointed to the icy pinnacles shooting high up 
into the sky, and seeming almost immediately 
above us. Crossing the river on the ice, and 
leaving it immediately, we commenced the 
ascent of the mountain along the valley of a 
tributary stream." The people were unusually 
silent; for every man knew that our enterprise 
was hazardous, and the issue doubtful. 

" The snow deepened rapidly, and it soon be- 
came necessary to break a road. For this ser- 
vice, a party of ten was formed, mounted on the 
strongest horses ; each man in succession open- 
ing the road on foot, or on horseback, until him- 
self and his horse became fatigued, when he 
stepped aside; and, the remaining r;umber pass- 
ing ahead, he took his station in the rear. Leav- 
ing this stream, and pursuing a very dkect course, 
we passed over an intervening ridge to the river 
we had left. On the way we passed two low 
huts entirely covered' with snow, which might 
very easily have escaped observation. A family 
was living in each ; and the only trail I saw in 
the neighborhood was from the door-hole to a 
nut-pine tree near, which supplied them with 
food and fuel. We found two similar huts on 
the creek where we next arrived ; and, travelling 
a little higher up, encamped on its banks in 
about four feet depth of snow. Carson found 



SIERRA NEVADA. 147 

near an open hill-side, where the wind and the 
sun had melted the snow, leaving exposed suffi- 
cient bunch grass for the animals to-night. 

" February 4. I went ahead early with two 
or three men, each with a led horse, to break the 
road. We were obliged to abandon the hollow 
entirely, and work along the mountain-side, 
which was very steep, and the snow covered 
with an icy crust. We cut a footing as we ad- 
vanced, and trampled a road through for the 
animals ; but occasionally one plunged outside 
the trail, and slided along the field to the bottom, 
a hundred yards below. Late in the day we 
reached another bench in the hollow, where, in 
summer, the stream passed over a small preci- 
pice. Here was a short distance of dividing 
ground between the two ridges, and beyond an 
open basin, some ten miles across, whose bottom 
presented a field of snow. At the further or 
western side rose the middle crest of the moun- 
tain, a dark-looking ridge of volcanic rock. 

" The summit line presented a range of naked 
peaks, apparently destitute of snow and vegeta- 
tion ; but below, the face of the whole country 
was covered with timber of extraordinary size. 

" Towards a pass which the guide indicated 
here, we attempted in the afternoon to force a 
road ; but after a laborious plunging through two 
or three hundred yards, our best horses gave out, 
entirely refusing to make any further effort ; and, 



148 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

for the time, we were brought to a stand. The 
guide informed us that we were entering the 
deep snow, and here began the difficulties of the 
mountain; and to him, and almost to all, our 
enterprise seemed hopeless. I returned a short 
distance back, to the break in the hollow, where 
I met Mr. Fitzpatrick. 

" The camp had been all the day occupied in 
endeavoring to ascend the hill, but only the best 
horses had succeeded. The animals generally 
not having sufficient strength to bring themselves 
up without the packs ; and all the line of road 
between this and the springs was strewed with 
camp stores and equipage, and horses flounder- 
ing in snow. I therefore immediately encamped 
on the ground with my own mess, which was in 
advance, and directed Mr. Fitzpatrick to encamp 
at the springs, and send all the animals in charge 
of Tabeau, with a strong guard, back to the 
place where they had been pastured the night 
before. Here was a small spot of level ground, 
protected on one side by the mountain and on 
the other sheltered by a little ridge of rock. It 
was an open grove of pines, which assimilated 
in size to the grandeur of the mountain, being 
frequently six feet in diameter. 

" To-night we had no shelter, but we made a 
large fire around the trunk of one of the huge 
pines ; and covering the snow with small boughs, 
on which we spread our blankets, soon made 



SIERRA NEVADA. 149 

ourselves comfortable. The night was very bright 
and clear, though the thermometer was only at 
10°. A strong wind, which sprang up at sun- 
down, made it intensely cold ; and this was one 
of the bitterest nights during the journey. 

" Two Indians joined our party here ; and one 
of them, an old man, immediately began to 
harangue us, saying that ourselves and animals 
would perish in the snow, and that if we would 
go back, he would show us another and a better 
way across the mountain. He spoke in a very 
loud voice, and there was a singular repetition 
of phrases and arrangement of words, which 
rendered his speech striking and not unmu- 
sical. 

" We had now begun to understand some 
words, and, with the aid of signs, easily com- 
prehended the old man's simple ideas. ' Rock 
upon rock — rock upon rock — snow upon snow 
— snow upon snow,' said he ; ' even if you get 
oyer the snow, you will not be able to get down 
from the mountains.' He made us the sign of 
precipices, and showed us how the feet of the 
horses would slip, and throw them off from the 
narrow trails which led along their sides. Our 
Chinook, who comprehended even more readily 
than ourselves, and believed our situation hope- 
less, covered his head with his blanket, and 
began to weep and lament. ' I wanted to see 
the whites,' said he ; * I came away from my own 

13* 



150 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

people to see the whites, and I wouldn't care to 

die among them ; but here ' and he looked 

around into the cold night and gloomy forest, 
and, drawing his blanket over his head, began 
again to lament. 

" Seated around the tree, the fire illuminating 
the rocks and the tall bolls of the pines round 
about, and the old Indian haranguing, we pre- 
sented a group of very serious faces. 

^'•February 5. The night had been too cold to 
sleep, and we were up very early. Our guide 
was standing by the fire with all his finery on ; 
and, seeing him shiver in the cold, I threw on 
his shoulders one of my blankets. We missed 
him a few minutes afterwards, and never saw 
him again. He had deserted. 

" While a portion of the camp were occupied 
in bringing up the baggage to this point, the 
remainder were busied in making sledges and 
snow-shoes. I had determined to explore the 
mountain ahead, and the sledges were to be used 
in transporting the baggage. 

'•^February 6. Accompanied by Mr. Fitzpat- 
rick, I sat out to-day with a reconnoitiing party, 
on snow-shoes. We marched all in a single file, 
trampling the snow as heavily as we could. Cross- 
ing the open basin, in a march of about ten 
miles we reached the top of one of the peaks, to 
the left of the pass indicated by our guide. Far 
below us, dimmed by the distance, was a large 



'll'l ' ft 



I lllllllllillllllll 




fii!&r! 






Sll> lililill/ 



^: 






SIERRA NEVADA. 151 

snowless valley, bounded on the western side 
at the distance of about a hundi'ed miles, by a 
low range of mountains, which Carson recog- 
nized with delight as the mountains bordering 
the coast. * There,' said he, ' is the little moun- 
tain — it is fifteen years ago since I saw it ; but 
I am just as sure as if I had seen it yesterday. 
Between us, then, and this low coast range, was 
the valley of the Sacramento ; and no one who 
had not accompanied us through the incidents 
of our life for the last few months, could realize 
the delight with which at last we looked down 
upon it. At the distance of apparently thirty 
miles beyond us were distinguished spots of 
prairie ; and a dark line, which could be traced 
with the glass, was imagined to be the course 
of the river ; but we were evidently at a great 
height above the valley, and between us and the 
plains extended miles of snowy fields, and broken 
ridges of pine-covered mountains. 

" It was late in the day when we turned 
towards the camp ; and it grew rapidly cold as 
it drew towards night. One of the men became 
fatigued, and his feet began to freeze, and, build- 
ing a fire in the trunk of a dry old cedar, Mr. 
Fitzpatrick remained with him until his clothes 
could be dried, and he was in a condition to 
come on. After a day's march of twenty miles, 
we straggled into camp, one after another, at 
nightfall ; the greater number excessively fatigued, 



152 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

only two of the party having ever travelled oia 
snow-shoes before. 

"All our energies were now directed to getting 
our animals across the snow ; and it was sup- 
posed that, after all the baggage had been drawn 
with the sleighs over the trail we had made, ii 
would be sufficiently hard to bear our animals.. 
At several places, between this point and the 
ridge, we had discovered some grassy spots, 
where the wind and sun had dispersed the snow 
from the sides of the hills, and these were to 
form resting-places to support the animals for 
a night in their passage across. On our way 
across, we had set on fire several broken stumps, 
and dried trees, to melt holes in the snow for the 
camps. Its general depth was five feet ; but we 
passed over places where it was twenty feet 
deep, as shown by the trees. 

" With one party drawing sleighs loaded with 
baggage, I advanced to-day, about four miles 
along the trail, and encamped at the first grassy 
spot where we expected to bring our horses. 
Mr. Fitzpatrick, with another party, remained 
behind, to form an intermediate station between 
us and the animals. 

'"'•Fehruary 8. The night has been extremely 
cold; but perfectly still, and beautifully clear. 
Before the sun appeared this morning, the ther- 
mometer was 3° below zero ; 1° higher, when 
his rays struck the lofty peaks ; and 0° when 
they reached our camp. 



SIERRA NEVADA. 153 

" Scenery and weather combined must render 
these mountains beautiful in summer ; the purity 
and deep- blue color of the sky are singularly 
beautiful ; the days are sunny and bright, and 
even warm in the noon hours ; and if we could 
be free from the many anxieties that oppress us, 
even now we would be delighted here ; but our 
provisions are getting fearfully scant. 

" Putting on our snow-shoes, we spent the 
afternoon in exploring a road ahead. The 
glare of the snow, combined with great fatigue, 
had rendered many of the people nearly blind 
but we were fortunate in having some black 
silk handkerchiefs, which, worn as veils, very 
much relieved the eye. 

" February 11. In the evening I received a 
message from IVIr. Fitzpatrick, acquainting me 
with the utter failure of his attempt to get our 
mules and horses over the snow — the half-hidden 
trail had proved entirely too slight to support 
them, and they had broken through, and were 
plunging about or lying half-buried in snow. 
He was occupied in endeavoring to get them 
back to his camp ; and in the mean time sent 
to me for further instructions. I wrote to him 
to send the animals immediately back to their 
old pastures ; and, after having made mauls 
and shovels, turn in all the strength of his party 
to open and beat a road through the snow, 
strengthening it with branches and boughs of 
the pines. 



154 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

" February 12. We made mauls, and worked 
hard at our end of the road all the day. The 
wind was high, but the sun bright, and the 
snow thawing. We worked down the face of 
the hill, to meet the people at the other end. 
Towards sundown it began to grow cold, and 
we shouldered om* mauls and trudged back to 
camp. 

" February 13. We continued to labor on 
the road ; and in the course of the day had the 
satisfaction to see the people working down the 
face of the opposite hill, about three miles 
distant. During the morning we had the plea- 
sure of a visit from Mr. Fitzpatrick, with the 
information that all was going on well. A party 
of Indians had passed on snow-shoes, who said 
they were going to the western side of the 
mountain after fish. This was an indication 
that the salmon were coming up the streams ; 
and we could hardly restrain our impatience as 
we thought of them, and worked with increased 
vigor. 

" The meat train did not amve this evening, 
and I gave Godey leave to kill our little dog 
(Tlamath,) which he prepared in Indian fashion 
— scorching off the hair, and washing the skin 
with soap and snow, and then cutting it up 
into pieces, which were laid on the snow. We 
had to-night an extraordinary dinner — pea-soup 
mule, and dog. 



SIERRA NEVADA. 155 

" February 14. With Mr. Preuss, I ascended 
to-day the highest peak to {he right ; from which 
we had a beautiful view of a mountain lake at 
our feet, about fifteen miles in length, and so 
entirely surrounded by mountains that we could 
not discover an outlet. We had taken with us 
a glass; but, though we enjoyed an extended 
view, the valley was half hidden in mist, as 
when we had seen it before. Snow could be 
distinguished on the higher parts of the coast 
mountains ; eastward, as far as the eye could 
extend, it ranged over a temble mass of broken 
snowy mountains, fading off blue in the dis- 
tance. 

" February 16. We had succeeded in getting 
our animals safely to the first grassy hill ; and 
this morning I started with Jacob on a recon- 
noitring expedition beyond the mountain. We 
travelled along the crests of narrow ridges, 
extending down from the mountain in the direc- 
tion of the valley, from which the snow was 
fast melting away. On the open spots was 
tolerably good grass; and I judged we should 
succeed in getting the camp down by way of 
these. Towards sundown we discovered some 
icy spots in a deep hollow ; and, descending the 
mountain, we encamped on the head-water of 
a little creek, where at last the water found its 
way to the Pacific. 

" The night was clear and very long. We 



156 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

heard the cries of some wild animals, which had 
been attracted by our fire, and a flock of geese 
passed over during the night. Even these 
strange sounds had something pleasant to our 
senses in this region of silence and desolation. 

" We started again early in the morning. 
The creek acquired a regular breadth of about 
20 feet, and we soon began to hear the rushing of 
the water below the ice surface, over which we 
travelled to avoid the snow ; a few miles below 
we broke through, where the water was several 
feet deep, and halted to make a fire and dry our 
clothes. We continued a few miles further, 
walking being very laborious without snow- 
shoes. 

" I was now perfectly satisfied that v/e had 
struck the stream on which Mr. Sutter lived ; 
and, turning about, made a hard push, and 
reached the camp at dark. Here we had the 
pleasure to find all the remaining animals, 57 in 
number, safely arrived at the grassy hill near the 
camp ; and here, also, we were agreeably sur- 
prised with the sight of an abundance of salt. 
Some of the horse-guard had gone to a neigh- 
boring hut for pine nuts, and discovered, unex- 
pectedly, a large cake of very white, fine-grained 
salt, which the Indians told them they had 
brought from the other side of the mountain; 
they used it to eat with their pine nuts, and 
readily sold it for goods. 



SIERRA NEVADA. 157 

" On the 19th the people were occupied in 
making a road and bringing up the baggage; 
and, on the afternoon of the next day, February 
20, 1844, we encamped with the animals and all 
the material of the camp, on the summit of the 
Pass in the dividing ridge, 1,000 miles by our 
travelled road from the Dalles of the Colum- 
bia. 

" The people, who had not yet been to this 
point, climbed the neighboring peak to enjoy a 
look at the valley. 

" The temperature of boiling water gave for 
the elevation of the encampment 9,338 feet 
above the sea. 

" This was 2,000 feet higher than the South 
Pass in the Rocky Mountains, and several peaks 
in view rose several thousand feet still higher. 
Thus, at the extremity of the continent, and 
near the coast, the phenomenon was seen of a 
range of mountains still higher than the great 
Rocky Mountains themselves. This extraordi- 
nary fact accounts for the Great Basin, and 
shows that there must be a system of small 
lake^ and rivers here scattered over a flat 
country, and which the extended and lofty 
range of the Sierra Nevada prevents from 
escaping to the Pacific Ocean. Latitude 38*^ 
44^ longitude 120° 28^ 

" Thus this pass in the Sierra Nevada, which 
so well deserves its name of Snowy Mountain, 

14 



158 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

is eleven degrees west, and about four degrees 
south of the South Pass. 

" February 21. We now considered ourselves 
victorious over the mountain ; having only the 
descent before us, and the valley under our 
eyes, we felt strong hope that we should force 
our way down. But this was a case in which 
the descent was not facile. Still deep fields 
of snow lay between, and there was a large 
intervening space of rough-looking mountains, 
through which we had yet to wind our way. 
Carson roused me this morning with an early 
fire, and we were all up long before day, in 
order to pass the snow-fields before the sun 
should render the crust soft. We enjoyed this 
morning a scene at sunrise, which even here was 
unusually glorious and beautiful. Immediately 
above the eastern mountains was repeated a 
cloud-formed mass of purple ranges, bordered 
with bright yellow gold ; the peaks shot up into 
a narrow line of crimson cloud, above which 
the air was filled with a greenish orange ; and 
over all was the singular beauty of the blue sky. 

" We had hard and doubtful labor yet before 
us, as the snow appeared to be heavier where 
the timber began further down, with few open 
spots. Ascending a height, we traced out the 
best line we could discover for the next day's 
march, and had at least the consolation to see that 
the mountain descended rapidly. The day bad 



I 



CALIFORNIA. 159 

been one of April ; gusty, with a few occasional 
flakes of snow ; which, in the afternoon, envel- 
oped the upper mountain in clouds. We 
watched them anxiously, as now we dreaded a 
snow-storm. Shortly afterwards we heard the 
roll of thunder, and, looking towards the valley, 
found it all enveloped in a thunder-storm. For 
us, as connected with the idea of summer, it 
had a singular charm ; and we watched its pro- 
gress with excited feelings until nearly sunset, 
when the sky cleared off brightly, and we saw a 
shining line of water dkecting its course towards 
another, a broader and larger sheet. We knew 
that these could be no other than the Sacra- 
mento and the bay of San Francisco ; but, after 
our long wandering in rugged mountains, where 
so frequently we had met with disappointments, 
and where the crossing of every ridge displayed 
some unknown lake or river, we were yet almost 
afraid to believe that we were at last to escape 
into the genial country of which we had heard 
so many glowing descriptions, and dreaded 
again to find some vast interior lake, whose 
bitter waters would bring us disappointment. 
On the southern shore of what appeared to be 
the bay, could be traced the gleaming line where 
entered another large stream. 

'''•February 23. This was our most difficult 
day ; we were forced off the ridges by the quan- 
tity of snow among the timber, and obliged to 



160 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

take to the mountain- sides, where, occasionally, 
rocks and a southern exposure afforded us a 
chance to scramble along. But these were 
steep and slippery with snow and ice ; and the 
tough evergreens of <the mountain impeded our 
way, tore our skins, and exhausted our patience. 
Some of us had the misfortune to wear mocca- 
sins with parfleche soles, so slippery that we 
could not keep our feet, and generally crawled 
across the snow beds. Axes and mauls were 
necessary to-day, to make a road through the 
snow. Going ahead with Carson to reconnoitre 
the road, we reached in the afternoon the river 
which made the outlet of the lake. Carson 
sprang over, clear across a place where the 
stream was compressed among rocks, but the 
parfleche sole of my moccasin glanced from the 
icy rock, and precipitated me into the river. It 
was some few seconds before I could recover 
myself in the current, and Carson thinking me 
hurt jumped in after me, and we both had an 
icy bath. We tried to search awhile for my 
gun, which had been lost in the fall, but the 
cold drove us out ; and, making a large fire on 
the bank, after we had partially dried ourselves, 
we went back to meet the camp. We after- 
wards found that the gun had been slung under 
the ice which lined the banks of the creek. 

" Using our old plan of breaking the road 
with alternate horses, we reached the creek in 



CALIFORNIA. 161 

the evening, and camped on a dry open place 
in the ravine. 

''' February 25. Continuing down the river; 
which pursued a very direct westerly course 
through a narrow valley, with only a very slight 
and narrow bottom land, we made twelve miles, 
and encamped at some old Indian huts, ap- 
parently a fishing-place on the river. The bot- 
tom was covered with trees of deciduous foliage, 
and overgrown with vines and rushes. On a 
bench of the hill near by, was a field of fresh 
green grass, six inches long in some of the tufts, 
which I had the curiosity to measure. The 
animals were driven here ; and I spent part of 
the afternoon sitting on a large rock among 
them, enjoying the pauseless rapidity with 
which they luxuriated in the unaccustomed 
food. 

" The forest was imposing to-day in the mag- 
nificence of the trees ; some of the pines, bearing 
large cones, were ten feet in diameter ; cedars 
also abounded, and we measured one twenty- 
eight and a half feet in circumference four feet 
from the ground. This noble tree seemed here 
to be in its proper soil and climate. We found 
it on both sides of the Sierra, but most abundant 
on the west. 

'''•February 26. We continued to follow the 
stream, the mountains on either hand increasing 
in height as we descended, and shutting up the 

14* 



162 LIFE OP FREaiONT. 

river narrowly in precipices, along which we 
had great difficulty to get our horses. 

" It rained heavily during the afternoon, and 
we were forced off the river to the heights 
above ; whence we descended, at nightfall, the 
point of a spur between the river and a fork of 
nearly equal size, coming in from the right. 
Here we saw, on the lower hills, the first flowers 
in bloom, which occurred suddenly, and in con- 
siderable quantity; one of them a species of 
gilia. 

" The current in both streams (rather torrents 
than rivers) was broken by large boulders. It 
was late, and the animals fatigued ; and not 
succeeding to find a ford immediately, we en- 
camped, although the hill-side afforded but a 
few stray bunches of grass ; the horses, standing 
about in the rain, looked very miserable. 

'•''February 27. We succeeded in fording the 
stream, and made a trail by which we crossed 
the point of the opposite hill, which, on the 
southern exposure, was prettily covered with 
green grass, and we halted a mile from our last 
encampment. The river was only about sixty 
feet wide, but rapid and occasionally deep, 
foaming among boulders, and the water beauti- 
fully clear. We encamped on the hill-slope, as 
there was no bottom level, and the opposite 
ridge is continuous, affording no streams. 

" We had with us a large kettle ; and a mule 



, CALIFORNIA. 163 

being killed here, his head was boiled in it for 
several hours, and made a passable soup for 
famished people. 

" Below, precipices on the river forced us to 
the heights, which we ascended by a steep spur 
two thousand feet high. My favorite horse Pro- 
veau, had become very weak, and was scarcely 
able to bring himself to the top. Travelling 
here was good, except in crossing the ravines, 
which were narrow, steep, and frequent. We 
caught a glimpse of a deer, the first animal we 
had seen ; but did not succeed in approaching 
him. Proveau could not keep up, and I left 
Jacob to bring him on, being obliged to press 
forward with the party, as there was no grass in 
the forest. We grew very anxious as the day 
advanced and no grass appeared, for the lives 
of our animals depended on finding it to-night. 
They were in just such a condition that grass 
and repose for the night enabled them to get on 
the next day. Every hour we had been ex- 
pecting to see open out before us the valley, 
which, from the mountain above, seemed almost 
at our feet. The day was nearly gone ; we had 
made a hard day's march, and found no grass. 
Towns became light-headed, wandering off into 
the woods without knowing where he was going, 
and Jacob brought him back. 

" Near nightfall we descended into the steep 
ravine of a handsome creek thirty feet wide, and 



164 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

I was engaged in getting the liorse up the op- 
posite hill, when I heard a shout from Carson, 
who had gone ahead a few hundred yards : ' Life 
yet,' said he as he came up, ' life yet ; I have 
found a hill-side sprinkled with grass enough 
for the night.' We drove along our horses, and 
encamped at the place about dark, and there 
was just room enough to make a place for shel- 
ter on the edge of the stream. Three horses 
were lost to-day, — Proveau ; a fine young horse 
from the Columbia, belonging to Charles Towns ; 
and another Indian horse which carried our 
cooking utensils ; the two former gave out, and 
the latter strayed off into the woods as we 
reached the camp. 

'''February 29. We lay shut up in the narrow 
ravine, and gave the animals a necessary day ; 
and men were sent back after the others. De- 
rosier volunteered to bring up Proveau to whom 
he knew I was greatly attached, as he had been 
my favorite horse on both expeditions. Carson 
and I climbed one of the nearest mountains ; 
the forest land still extended ahead, and the 
valley appeared as far as ever. The packhorse 
was found near the camp, but Derosier did not 
get in. 

'•''March 1. Derosier did not get in during 
the night, and leaving him to follow, as no 
grass remained here, we continued on over the 
uplands, crossing many small streams, and 



CALIFORNIA. 165 

camped again on the river, having made »ix 
miles. Here we found the hill-side covered (al- 
though lightly) with fresh green grass ; and 
from this time forward we found it always im- 
proving and abundant. 

" We made a pleasant camp on the river hill, 
where were some beautiful specimens of the 
chocolate-colored shrub, a foot in diameter 
near the ground, and from fifteen to twenty 
feet high. The opposite ridge runs continu- 
ously along, unbroken by streams. We are 
rapidly descending into the spring, and we are 
leaving our snowy region far behind ; every- 
thing is getting green ; butterflies are swarming; 
numerous bugs are creeping out, wakened from 
their winter's sleep ; and the forest flowers are 
coming into bloom. Among those which ap- 
peared most numerously to-day was dodecatheon 
dentatum. 

" We began to be uneasy at Derosier's ab- 
sence, fearing he might have been bewildered 
in the woods. Charles Towns, who had not 
yet recovered his mind, went to swim in the 
river, as if it were summer, and the stream 
placid, when it was a cold mountain torrent 
foaming among rocks. We were happy to see 
Derosier appear in the evening. He came in, 
and, sitting down by the fire, began to tell us 
where he had been. He imagined he had been 
gone several days, and thought we were still at 



166 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

the camp where he had left us ; and we were 
pained to see that his mind was deranged. It 
appeared that he had been lost in the mountain, 
and hunger and fatigue, joined to weakness of 
body, and fear of perishing in the mountains, 
had crazed him. The times were severe when 
stout men lost their minds from extremity of 
suffering — when horses died — and when mules 
and horses, ready to die of starvation, were 
killed for food. Yet there was no murmuring 
or hesitation.'^ 

On the 2d of March, Mr. Preuss wandered 
from the party, and was lost. Guns were fired, 
and every effort made to reach him. All were 
filled with the deepest distress at his disappear- 
ance. On the 4th of March, Derosier, having 
volunteered the service, was sent back to attempt 
to find him, being charged to follow the river, 
not to continue the search more than a day and 
a half, and, at the end of that time, to turn back 
towards the point from which he stai*ted, where 
a cache of provisions would be left for him. 

" Towards evening we heard a weak shout 
among the hills behind, and had the pleasure to 
see Mr. Preuss descending towards the camp. 
Like ourselves, he had travelled to-day twenty- 
five miles, but had seen nothing of Derosier. 
Knowing, on the day he w^as lost, that I was de- 
termined to keep the river as much as possible, 
he had not thought it necessary to follow the 



CALIFORNIA. 167 

trail very closely, but walked on right and left, 
certain to find it somewhere along the river, 
searching places to obtain good views of the 
country. Towards sunset he climbed down 
towards the river, to look for the camp ; but, 
finding no trail, concluded that we were behind, 
and walked back until night came on, when, be- 
ing very much fatigued, he collected driftwood 
and made a large fire among the rocks. The 
next day it became more serious, and he en- 
camped again alone, thinking that we must have 
taken some other course. To go back would 
have been madness in his weak and starved con- 
dition, and onward towards the valley was his 
only hope, always in expectation of reaching it 
soon. His principal means of subsistence were 
a few roots, which the hunters call sweet onions, 
having very little taste, but a good deal of nutri- 
ment, growing generally in rocky ground, and 
requiring a good deal of labor to get, as he had 
only a pocket-knife. Searching for these, he 
found a nest of big ants, which he let run on his 
hand, and stripped them ofi' in his mouth ; these 
had an agreeable acid taste. One of his greatest 
privations was the want of tobacco ; and a 
pleasant smoke at evening would have been a 
relief which only a voyageur could appreciate. 
He tried the dried leaves of the live oak, know- 
ing that those of other oaks were sometimes 
used as a substitute ; but these were too thick, 



168 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and would not do. On the 4th he made seven 
or eight miles, walking slowly along the river 
avoiding as much as possible to climb the hills. 
In little pools he caught some of the smallest 
kind of frogs, which he swallowed, not so much 
in the gratification of hunger, as in the hope ol 
obtaining some strength. Scattered along the 
river were old fire-places, where the Indians had 
roasted muscles and acorns ; but though he 
searched diligently, he did not there succeed in 
finding either. He had collected firewood for 
the night, when he heard at some distance from 
the river the barking of what he thought were 
two dogs, and walked in that direction as quickly 
as he was able, hoping to find there some Indian 
hut, but met only two wolves ; and, in his disap- 
pointment, the gloom of the forest was doubled. 
" Travelling the next day feebly down the 
river, he found five or six Indians at the huts of 
which we have spoken. Some were painting 
themselves black, and others roasting acorns. 
Being only one man, they did not run off, but 
received him kindly, and gave him a welcome 
supply of roasted acorns. He gave them his 
pocket-knife in return, and stretched out his. hand 
to one of the Indians, who did not appear to 
comprehend the motion, but jumped back, as if 
he thought he v/as about to lay hold of him. 
They seemed afraid of him, not certain as to 
what he was. 



CALIFORNIA. 169 

" Travelling on, he came to the place where 
we had found the squaws. Here he found our fire 
still burning, and the tracks of the horses. The 
sight gave him sudden hope and courage ; and, 
following as fast as he could, joined us at evening. 

" March 6. We now pressed on more eagerly 
than ever ; the river swept round in a large bend 
to the right ; the hills lowered down entirely ; 
and, gradually entering a broad valley, we came 
unexpectedly into a large Indian village, where 
the people looked clean, and wore cotton shirts and 
various other articles of dress. They immediately 
crowded around us, and we had the inexpressible 
delight to find one who spoke a little indifferent 
Spanish, but who at first confounded us by saying 
there were no whites in the country ; but just then 
a well-dressed Indian came up, and made his salu- 
tations in very weU-spoken Spanish. In answer 
to our inquiries, he informed us that we v/ere 
upon the Rio de los Americanos, (the river of the 
Americans,) and that it joined the Sacramento 
River about 10 miles below. Never did a name 
sound more sweetly ! We felt ourselves among 
our countrymen ; for the name of American, in 
these distant parts is applied to the citizens of 
the United States. To our eager inquiries he 
answered, ' I am a vaquero (cow-herd) in the 
service of Capt. Sutter, and the people of this 
rancheria work for him.' Our evident satisfac- 
tion made him communicative ; and he went on 
15 



170 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

to say that Capt. Sutter was a very rich man; 
and always glad to see his country people. We 
asked for his house. He answered that it was 
just over the hill before us ; and offered, if we 
would wait a moment, to take his horse and con- 
duct us to it. We readily accepted his civil 
offer. In a short distance we came in sight of 
the fort ; and, passing on the way the house of 
a settler on the opposite side, (a Mr. Sinclair,) 
we forded the river ; and in a few miles were 
met a short distance from the fort by Capt. Sut- 
ler himself. He gave us a most frank and 
cordial reception — conducted us immediately to 
his residence — and under his hospitable roof we 
had a night of rest, enjoyment, and refreshment, 
which none but ourselves could appreciate. But 
the party left in the mountains with Mr. Fitz- 
patrick were to be attended to ; and the next 
morning, supplied with fresh horses and provis- 
ions, I hurried off to meet them. On the second 
day we met, a few miles below the forks of the 
Rio de los Americanos ; arid a more forlorn and 
pitiable sight than they presented cannot well be 
imagined. They were all on foot — each man, 
weak and emaciated — leading a horse or mule as 
weak and emaciated as themselves. They had 
experienced great difficulty in descending the 
mountains, made slippery by rains and melt- 
ing snows, and many horses fell over precipices, 
and were killed ; and with some were lost the 



CALIFORNIA. 171 

packs they carried. Among these, was a mule 
with the plants which we had collected since 
leaving Fort Hall, along a line of 2,000 miles 
travel. Out of 67 horses and mules with which 
we commenced crossing the Sierra, only 83 
reached the valley of the Sacramento, and they 
only in a condition to be led along. Mr. Fitz- 
patrick and his party, travelling more slowly, had 
been able to make some little exertion at hunt- 
ing, and had killed a few deer. The scanty sup- 
ply was a great relief to them ; for several had 
been made sick by the strange and unwholesome 
food which the preservation of life compelled 
them to use. We stopped and encamped as 
soon as we met ; and a repast of good beef, ex- 
cellent bread, and delicious salmon, which I had 
brought along, were their first relief from the suf- 
ferings of the Sierra, and their first introduction 
to the luxuries of the Sacramento. It required 
all our philosophy and forbearance to prevent 
plenty from becoming as hurtful to us now as 
scarcity had been before." 

After resting a few days, and completing pre- 
parations for the homeward journey, the party 
started on the 22d of March. The next day 
Derosier, who had returned in safety from the 
search for Mr. Preuss, and whom Fremont ever 
regarded as among his best men, wandered 
away from the camp. It was probably owing 
to a return of the mental derangement which the 



172 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

sufferings of the recent journey had brought on. 
All attempts to find him were fruitless, and he 
was never heard of more, until after the lapse of 
about two years, he found his way into St, 
Louis. 

Before touching upon the events of the home- 
ward journey, which will be briefly done, we 
may pause for a moment, and reflect upon the 
extraordinary expedition from the Dalles to the 
junction of the Americanos and the Sacramento, 
of which the disappearance of Derosier may be 
considered the final incident. 

When the season of the year at which it started 
from the Columbia, and the entirely unknown 
and forbidding character of the region it pene- 
trated, are fully considered, it must be allowed 
to be one of the boldest adventures ever under- 
taken. It was the first exploration of a vast re- 
gion, of strange features, and occupied by savage 
tribes and families that no traveller had ever 
described or seen, covering 11 degrees of latitude 
and 10 of longitude, between 4000 and 5000 
feet above the level of the sea, and shut in be- 
tween lofty ranges crowned with perpetual snow, 
the Rocky Mountains in the east and the Sierra 
Nevada on the west. Throughout this great 
basin, the streams flow not into rivers seeking 
distant seas, but into numerous and many of 
them wide lakes, having no apparent connection 
with the oceans of the globe, deeply impreg- 



GREAT BASIN. 173 

nated in some instances, with saline and mineral 
ingi'edients, in some, turbid and thick with vege- 
table matter, but often clear, pure, refreshing, 
translucent to great depths, bordered by beaches 
of the finest sand, and stocked with delicious 
fish. The shores • are surrounded by pictur- 
esque, bold, and magnificent scenery. 

Some portions of this vast tract are dreary 
deserts, in which no animal can live, and from 
which nearly the whole vegetable world shrinks 
away. Other portions are fertile and luxuriant 
in the highest degree, possessing all that valley, 
cliff, meadow, mountain, forest, and river can 
contribute to the perfection of landscape beauty. 
Above is spread a sky, with an atmosphere 
clearer, and a blue deeper and softer, than hangs 
over any other region. Of this very remarkable 
tract, constituting the central plate or basin of 
the continent, Fremont was the first explorer, and 
the heroism, resolution, and unconquerable per- 
severance of his brave party, is one of the most 
interesting chapters in that series of achieve- 
ments which has secured and subdued this 
continent to our form of civilization, and will 
bring it all, at last, under our flag. 

The expedition pursued its course southerly 
along the western base of the Sierra Nevada, 
crossing the heads of the streams that flow 
thr(mgh California to the Bay of San Francisco. 
On the 13th of April it entered a pass, a little 

15* 



174 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

above the 35th parallel of latitude, and crossed 
the summit the next day. 

" As we reached the summit of this beautifo. 
pass, and obtained a view into the eastern coun- 
try, we saw at once that here was the place to 
take leave of all such pleasant scenes as those 
around us. The distant mountains were now 
bald rocks again ; and below, the land had any 
color but green. Taking into consideration the 
nature of the Sierra Nevada, we found this pass 
an excellent one for horses; and with a little 
labor, or perhaps with a more perfect examina- 
tion of the localities, it might be made suffi- 
ciently practicable for wagons. Its latitude and 
longitude may be considered that of our last en- 
campment, only a few miles distant. The ele- 
vation was not taken, our half-wild cavalcade 
making it too troublesome to halt before night, 
when once started. 

" We here left the waters of the Bay of San 
Francisco, and, though forced upon them con- 
trary to my intentions, I cannot regret the neces- 
sity which occasioned the deviation. It made 
me well acquainted with the great range of the 
Sierra Nevada of the Alta California, and showed 
that this broad and elevated snowy ridge was a 
continuation of the Cascade Range, of Oregon, 
between which and the ocean there is still another 
and a lower range, parallel to the former and to 
the coast, and which may be called the Coast 



GREAT BASIN. 175 

Range. It also made me well acquainted with 
the basin of the San Francisco Bay, and with 
the two pretty rivers and their valleys, (the Sac- 
ramento and San Joaquin,) which are tributary 
to that bay ; and cleared up some points in ge- 
ography on which error had long prevailed. It 
had been constantly represented, as I have 
already stated, that the Bay of San Francisco 
opened far into the interior, by some river com- 
ing down from the base of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, and upon which supposed stream the 
name of Rio Buenaventura had been bestowed. 
Our observations of the Sierra Nevada, in the 
long distance from the head of the Sacramento 
to the head of the San Joaquin, and of the val- 
ley below it, which collects all the waters of the 
San Francisco Bay, show that this neither is nor 
can be the case. No river from the interior does 
or can cross the SieiTa Nevada — itself more 
lofty than the Rocky Mountains ; and as to the 
Buenaventura, the mouth of which, seen on the 
coast, gave the idea and the name of the reputed 
great river, it is, in fact, a small stream of no 
consequence, not only below the Sierra Nevada, 
but actually below the Coast Range, taking its 
rise within half a degree of the ocean, running 
parallel to it for about two degrees, and then 
falling into the Pacific near Monterey. There is 
no opening from the Bay of San Francisco into 
the interior of the continent. The two rivers 



176 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

which flow into it are comparatively short, and 
not perpendicular to the coast, but lateral to it; 
and having their heads towards Oregon and 
Southern California. They open lines of com- 
munication north and south, and not eastwardly ; 
and thus this want of interior communication 
from the San Francisco Bay, now fully ascer- 
tained, gives great additional value to the Co- 
lumbia, which stands alone as the only great 
river on the Pacific slope of our continent which 
leads from the ocean to the Rocky Mountains, 
and opens a line of communication from the sea 
to the valley of the Mississippi. 

" Our cavalcade made a strange and grotesque 
appearance, and it was impossible to avoid re- 
flecting upon our position and composition in 
this remote solitude. "Within two degrees of the 
Pacific ocean, already far south of the latitude 
of Monterey, and still forced on south by a des- 
ert on one hand, and a mountain range on the 
other, guided by a civilized Indian, attended by 
two wild ones from the Sierra, a Chinook from 
the Columbia, and our own mixture of Ameri- 
can, French, German, all armed, four or five lan- 
guages heard at once, above a hundred horses 
and mules, half wild, American, Spanish, and 
Indian dresses and equipments intermingled, — 
such was our composition. Our march was a 
sort of procession — scouts ahead and on the 
flanksj a front and rear division, the pack ani- 



GREAT BASIN. 177 

mals, baggage, and horned cattle in the centre, 
and the whole stretching a quarter of a mile 
along our dreary path. 

^' April 25. In the afternoon, we were sur- 
prised by the sudden appearance in the camp of 
two Mexicans — a man and a boy. The name 
of the man was Andreas Fuentes, and that of 
the boy (a handsome lad 11 years old) Pablo 
Hernandez. They belonged to a party consist- 
ing of six persons, the remaining four being the 
wife of Fuentes, the father and mother of Pablo, 
and Santiago Giacome, a resident of New Mex- 
ico. With a cavalcade of about thirty horses, 
they had come out from Puebla de los Angeles, 
near the coast, under the guidance of Giacome, 
in advance of the great caravan, in order to 
travel more at leisure and obtain better grass. 
Having advanced as far into the desert as was 
considered consistent with their safety, they halt- 
ed at the Archilette, one of the customary camp- 
ing grounds, about eighty miles from our en- 
campment, where there is a spring of good 
water, with sufficient grass, and concluded to 
await there the arrival of the great caravan. 
Several Indians were soon discovered lurking 
about the camp, who, in a day or two after, came 
in, and, after behaving in a very friendly manner, 
took their leave, without awakening any suspi- 
cions. Their deportment begat a security which 
proved fatal. In a few days afterwards, sud- 



178 



LIFE OF FREMONT. 



denly a party of about one hundred Indians ap- 
peared in sight, advancing towards the camp. 
It was too late, or they seemed not to have pres- 
ence of mind to take proper measures of safety ; 
and the Indians charged down into their camp, 
shouting as they advanced, and discharging 
flights of arrows. Pablo and Fuentes were on 
horse-guard at the time, and mounted, according 
to the custom of the country. One of the prin- 
cipal objects of the Indians was to get posses- 
sion of the horses, and part of them immedi- 
ately surrounded the band ; but, in obedience to 
the shouts of Giacome, Fuentes drove the ani- 
mals over and through the assailants, in spite of 
their arrows ; and, abandoning the rest to their 
fate, carried them off at speed across the plain. 
Knowing that they Vv^ould be pursued by the In- 
dians, without making any halt except to shift 
their saddles to other horses, they drove them on 
for about sixty miles, and this morning left them 
at a watering-place on the trail called Agua de 
Tomaso. Without giving themselves any time 
for rest, they hurried on, hoping to meet the 
Spanish caravan, when they discovered my camp. 
I received them kindly, taking them into my 
own mess, and promised them such aid as cir- 
cumstances might put it in my power to give." 

Fuentes was filled with the deepest anxiety 
about the fate of his wife, and Pablo about that 
of his father and mother. There was every 




GREAT BASIN. 179 

reason, indeed, to fear the worst. The sensi- 
bilities of Fremont's noble-hearted men were 
highly excited by the expressions of their grief, 
and Carson and Godey volunteered to accom- 
pany Fuentes in pursuit of the Indians, hoping 
to deliver the captives, if alive, or avenge them 
if dead. Fuentes returned the same night, hie 
horse having given out, but Carson and Godey 
kept on. 

" In the afternoon of the next day, a war- 
whoop was heard, such as Indians make when 
returning from a victorious enterprise ; and soon 
Carson and Godey appeared, driving before 
them a band of horses, recognized by Fuentes 
to be part of those they had lost. Two bloody 
scalps, dangling from the end of Godey's gun, 
announced that they had overtaken the Indians, 
as well as the horses. They informed us, that 
after Fuentes left them, from the failure of his 
horse, they continued the pursuit alone, and 
towards nightfall entered the mountains, into 
which the trail led. After sunset the moon 
gave light, and they followed the trail by moon- 
shine until late in the night, when it entered a 
narrow defile, and was difficult to follow. 
Afraid of losing it in the darkness of the defile, 
they tied up their horses, struck no fire, and lay 
down to sleep in silence and in darkness. Here 
they lay from midnight till morning. At day- 
light they resumed the pursuit, and about sun- 



180 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

rise discovered the horses ; and, immediately 
dismounting and tying up their own, they crept 
cautiously to a rising ground which intervened, 
from the crest of which they perceived the en- 
campment of four lodges close by. They pro- 
ceeded quietly, and had got within thirty or 
forty yards of their object, when a movement 
among the horses discovered them to the In- 
dians ; giving the war shout, they instantly 
charged into the camp, regardless of the number 
which the four lodges would imply. The In- 
dians received them with a flight of arrows 
shot from their long bows, one of which 
passed through Godey's shirt collar, barely miss- 
ing the neck ; our men fired their rifles upon a 
steady aim, and rushed in. Two Indians were 
stretched on the ground, fatally pierced with 
bullets ; the rest fled, except a lad that was 
captured. The scalps of the fallen were in- 
stantly stripped off; but in the process, one 
of them, who had a ball through his body, 
sprung to his feet, the blood streaming from his 
skinned head, and uttering a hideous howl. 
An old squaw, possibly his mother, stopped and 
looked back from the mountain side she was 
climbing, threatening and lamenting. The 
frightful spectacle Appalled the stout hearts of 
our men ; but they did what humanity required, 
and quickly terminated the agonies of the gory 
savage. They were now masters of the camp^ 



GREAT BASIN. 181 

which was a pretty little recess in the mountain, 
with a fine spring, and apparently safe from all 
invasion. Great preparations had been made 
to feast a large party, for it was a very proper 
place for a rendezvous, and for the celebration 
of such orgies as robbers of the desert would 
delight in. Several of the best horses had been 
killed, skinned, and cut up ; for the Indians liv- 
ing in mountains, and only coming into the 
plains to rob and murder, make no other use of 
horses than to eat them. Large earthen vessels 
were on the fire, boiling and stewing the horse- 
beef; and several baskets, containing fifty or 
sixty pairs of moccasins, indicated the presence, 
or expectation, of a considerable party. They 
released the boy, who had given strong evidence 
of the stoicism, or something else, of the savage 
character, in commencing his breakfast upon a 
horse's head as soon as he found he was not to 
be killed, but only tied as a prisoner. Their ob- 
ject accomplished, our men gathered up all the 
surviving horses, fifteen in number, returned 
upon their trail, and rejoined us at our camp in 
the afternoon of the same day. They had rode 
about one hundred miles in the pursuit and re- 
turn, and all in thirty hours. The time, place, 
object, and numbers considered, this expedition 
of Carson and Godey may be considered among 
the boldest and most disinterested which the 
annals of western adventure, so full of daring 

16 



182 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

deeds, can present. Two men, in a savage des- 
ert, pursue day and night an unknown body of 
Indians into the defiles of an unknown moun- 
tain — attack them on sight, without counting 
numbers — and defeat them in an instant, — and 
for what ? To punish the robbers of the desert, 
and to avenge the wrongs of Mexicans whom 
they did not know. I repeat: it was Carson 
and Godey who did this — the former an Ameri- 
can, born in Kentucky ; the latter a Frenchman 
by descent, born in St. Louis ; and both trained 
to western enterprise from early life." 

The foregoing passage presents a horrid spec- 
tacle of the barbarities incident to a wilderness 
life. The mind shudders at the details of the 
bloody conflict ; but it was not long before 
ample and fearful evidence appeared that the 
sudden and awful retribution inflicted upon the 
savages by the intrepid Carson and his well- 
matched associate, was fully merited. 

" April 29. To-day we had to reach the Ar- 
chilette, distant seven miles, where the Mexican 
party had been attacked; and, leaving our en- 
campment early, we traversed a part of the des- 
ert, the most sterile and repulsive that we had 
yet seen. Its prominent features were dark si- 
erras, naked and dry ; on the plains a few strag- 
gling shrubs — among them, cactus of several 
varieties. Fuentes pointed out one called by 
the Spaniards bisnada, which has a juicy pulp, 



GREAT BASIN. 183 

slightly acid, and is eaten by the traveller to 
allay thirst. Our course was generally north ; 
and, after crossing an intervening ridge, we 
descended into a sandy plain, or basin, in the 
middle of which was the grassy spot, with its 
springs and willow bushes, which constitutes a 
camping-place in the desert, and is called the 
Archilette. The dead silence of the place was 
ominous ; and, galloping rapidly up, we found 
only the corpses of the two men ; every thing 
else was gone. They were naked, mutilated, 
and pierced with an'ows. Hernandez had evi- 
dently fought, and with desperation. He lay in 
advance of the willow, half-faced tent, which 
sheltered his family, as if he had come out to 
meet danger, and to repulse it from that asy- 
lum. One of his hands, and both his legs, had 
been cut off. Giacome, who was a large and 
strong-looking man, was lying in one of the 
wiUow shelters, pierced with arrows. Of the 
women no trace could be found, a^nd it was evi- 
dent they had been carried off captive. A little 
lap-dog, which had belonged to Pablo's mother, 
remained with the dead bodies, and was frantic 
with joy at seeing Pablo; he, poor child, was 
frantic with grief ; and filled the air with 
lamentations for his father and mother. Ml 
padre I — mi madre ! — ^was his incessant cry. 
When we beheld this pitiable sight, and pic- 
tured to ourselves the fate of the two women. 



184 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

carried off by savages so brutal and so loath- 
some, all compunction for the scalped-alive In- 
dian ceased; and we rejoiced that Carson and 
Godey had been able to give so useful a lesson 
to these American Arabs, who lie in wait to 
murder and plunder the innocent traveller. 

" We were all too much affected by the sad 
feelings which the place inspired, to remain 
an unnecessary moment. The night we were 
obliged to pass there. Early in the morning we 
left it, having first written a brief account of 
what had happened, and put it in the cleft of a 
pole planted at the spring, that the approaching 
caravan might learn the fate of their friends. 
In commemoration of the event, we called the 
place Agua de Hernandez — Hernandez's spring." 

It was afterwards ascertained that the wife ol 
Fuentes, and mother of Pablo, were- both mur- 
dered at a short distance beyond, and probably 
a few hours after their capture, under circum- 
stances of the most incredible and brutal cruelty, 
and after fiendhke outrages and tortures. 

The circumstances jtist related prove that Kit 
Carson is worthy of the renown he enjoys in the 
estimation of the backwoodsmen of America, 
as the hero of the prairies and the mountains. 
His name is so intimately identified with that 
of Fremont, that these pages owe a special tiib- 
ute to his manly and noble virtues. They first 
met accidentally on a steamboat above St. 




Kit Carson 



KIT CAKSON. 185 

Louis, as Fremont was starting on his first ex- 
pedition — neither had ever heard of the other. 
But Carson's character, although then unknown 
in the settlements, had long before become an 
object of pride and admiration to every brave 
heart among the trappers and hunters of 
America. 

Christopher Carson was born in Kentucky 
about the year 1811, his father having been one 
of the early settlers of that State, and noted in 
his day as a hunter and Indian fighter. Within 
a year or two after the birth of Kit, the family 
moved to the then frontiers of Missouri. At the 
age of fifteen Kit joined a trading party to Sante 
Fe. From that point he went into the lower 
Mexican provinces, following various adven- 
tures ; among others he was employed for some 
time as a teamster, in connection with the cop- 
per mines of Chihuahua. At seventeen years 
of age he commenced life as a trapper, in the 
region of the Rio Colorado of California. After 
many perils he returned to Taos, in New Mexico, 
and joined a trapping party to the head waters 
of the Arkansas, and spent about eight years in 
that occupation, principally among the moun- 
tains where the Missouri and Columbia rivers 
take their rise. The business of trapping was 
then in its more flourishing state, and formed 
a class of men of marked and striking traits 
Nature in her original aspects, and in all her 

16* 



186 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

wildness and grandeur, was their home. Sav- 
ages, fierce, brave, and stealthy, met them at 
every point — and privation, danger, and suffering 
were an ordinary experience. This mode of life, 
in its perfect freedom and manly excitements and 
achievements, was favorable in many respects 
to the development of noble energies and sen- 
timents. Carson soon became preeminent in 
these characteristics, and was famous as a suc- 
cessful trapper, unerring shot, and reliable guide 
and leader. In conflicts with hostile Indians he 
conducted many a daring and victorious enter- 
terprise. In one of these conflicts with the 
Blackfeet he received a rifle ball in his left 
shoulder, the only personal injury he ever met 
in battle. 

He is a remarkably peaceable and quiet man, 
temperate in his habits, and strictly moral in his 
deportment. In a letter written from California, 
in 1847, introducing Carson as the bearer of 
despatches to the government, Col. Fremont 
says, "with me, Carson and truth mean the 
same thing. He is always the same — gallant 
and disinterested." He is kind-hearted, and 
averse to all quarrelsome and turbulent scenes, 
and has never been engaged in any mere per- 
sonal broils or encounters, except on one single 
occasion, which he sometimes modestly de- 
scribes to his friends. The narrative, as he gives 
it, IS fully confirmed by an eye-witness, of whose 



KIT CARSON. 18t 

presence at the time he was not aware, and 
whose account he has probably never seen or 
heard of. I shall tell the story as it is gathered 
from them both. 

In the year 1835, the Rev. Samuel Parker 
made an exploring and missionary tour, under 
the auspices of the American Board of Com- 
missioners for Foreign Missions, beyond the 
Rocky Mountains, and as far as the settlements 
on the Columbia River. In his printed journal 
he gives an account of the incident to which I am 
referring ; it occurred on the 12th of August, at 
a point on the borders of Green River, beyond 
the South Pass, on the occasion of a " rendez- 
vous," that is, on a spot selected for Indians, 
trappers, and hunters to bring to market their 
peltries, and obtain supplies from the agents of 
the Fm- Companies. There was a large con- 
course of savage tribes, and all the various deni- 
zens of the wilderness. There were Frenchmen, 
Spaniards, Dutchmen, Canadians, and Western 
backwoodsmen. The Rev. Mr. Parker happened 
to be there, to witness the strange gathering. 
Of course there were some rude characters, and 
not a little irregularity and disorder. Conflicts 
were liable to arise between quaiTelsome persons, 
growing out of the ieuds among the tribes, and 
animosities between the representatives of differ- 
ent nations, all actuated by pride of race or 
:jountry. 



188 LIFE OF FEEMONT. 

A hunter, named Shunan, a Frenchman, 
who was well known by the title of the " big 
bully of the mountains," mounted his horse with 
a loaded rifle, and dashing defiantly around, 
challenged any person, of any nationality, to 
meet him in single combat. He boasted of his 
exploits, and used the most insulting and irritat- 
ing language, and was particularly insolent and 
abusive towards Americans, whom he described 
as only worth being whipped with switches. 
Kit tlJarson was in the crowd, and his patriotic 
spirit kindled at the taunt. He at once stepped 
forward and said, " I am an American, the most 
trifling one among them, but if you wish to die, 
I will accept your challenge." Shunan defied 
him. Carson at once leaped upon his horse, 
with a loaded pistol, and both dashed into close 
conflict. They fired, almost at the same mo- 
ment, but Carson an instant the quickest. Their 
horses heads touched. Shunan's ball just grazed 
Carson's cheek, near the left eye, and cut ofl" 
some locks of his hair. Carson's ball entered 
Shunan's hand, came out at the wrist, and passed 
through his arm above the elbow. The bully 
begged for his life, and it was spared. 

This put an effectual stop to all such insolent 
proceedings, and Americans were insulted no 
longer. We shall have occasion to refer to Car* 
son at several points in the residue of this work. 
He is still living, being yet, indeed i in his prime. 



KIT CARSON. 189 

President Polk nominated him to the Senate for 
a commission in the army, corresponding to 
what he had held in the California battalion, 
that of a lieutenancy in the Hifle corps. The 
nomination was not confirmed by the Senate. 
His faithful commander has recorded his name 
on the geography of the continent, by calling 
after him a river and a lake, in the great basin 
they explored together. He is, at this time, In- 
dian agent for New Mexico. He was early 
married to a Sioux woman, to whom he was 
devotedly attached. She died, leaving one 
daughter. Carson's present wife is a New Mex- 
ican lady of great worth and respectability. 

The following passage from Fremont's Jour- 
nal conveys a vivid idea of the wilder races of 
Indians : — 

" In the darkness of the night we had made a 
very bad encampment, our fires being com- 
manded by a rocky blufi" within fifty yards ; but, 
notwithstanding, we had the river and small 
thickets of willows on the other side. Several 
times dming the day the camp was insulted by 
the Indians ; but peace being our object, I kept 
simply on the defensive. Some of the Indians 
were on the bottoms, and others haranguing us 
from the bluffs ; and they were scattered in every 
direction over the hills. Their language being 
probably a dialect of the Utah, with the aid of 
signs some of our people could comprehend them 



190 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

very well. They were the same people who had 
murdered the Mexicans ; and towards us their 
disposition was evidently hostile, nor were we 
well disposed towards them. They were bare- 
footed and nearly naked ; their hair gathered up 
into a knot behind ; and with his bow each man 
carried a quiver with thirty or forty arrows par- 
tially drawn out. Besides these, each held in 
his hand two or three arrows for instant service. 
Their arrows are barbed with a very clear translu- 
cent stone, a species of opal, nearly as hard as the 
diamond; and, shot from their long bow, are 
almost as effective as a gunshot. In these In- 
dians, I was forcibly struck by an expression of 
countenance resembling that in a beast of prey ; 
and all their actions are those of wild animals. 
Joined to the restless motion of the eye, there is 
a want of mind — an absence of thought — and 
an action wholly by impulse, strongly expressed, 
and which constantly recalls the similarity. 

" A man who appeared to be a chief, with two 
or three others, forced himself into camp, bring- 
ing with him his arms, in spite of my orders to 
the contrary. When shown our weapons, he 
bored his ear with his fingers, and said he could 
not hear. ' Why,' said he, ' there are none of 
' you.' Counting the people around the camp, 
and including in the number a mule which was 
being shod, he made out twenty-two. ' So 
many,' said he, showing the number, ' and we — 



KIT CARSON. 191 

we are a great many ; ' and he pointed to the 
hills and mountains round about. ' If you have 
your arms,' said he, twanging his bow, ' we have 
these.' I had some difficulty in restraining the 
people, particularly Carson, who felt an insult of 
this kind as much as if it had been given by a 
more responsible being. ' Don't say that, old 
man,' said he ; ' don't you say that — your life's 
in danger,' — speaking in good English ; and 
probably the old man was nearer to his end 
than he will be before he meets it. 

" I had been engaged in arranging plants ; 
and, fatigued with the heat of the day, I fell 
asleep in the afternoon, and did not awake until 
sundown. Presently Carson came to me, and 
reported that Tabeau, who early in the day had 
left his post, and, without my knowledge, rode 
back to the camp we had left, in search of a 
lame mule, had not returned. While we were 
speaking, a smoke rose suddenly from the cotton- 
wood grove below, which plainly told us what 
had befallen him. It was raised to inform the 
surrounding Indians that a blow had been struck, 
and to tell them to be on their guard. Carson, 
with several men weU mounted, was instantly 
sent down the river, but returned in the night 
without tidings of the missing man. They went 
to the camp we had left, but neither he nor the 
mule was there. Searching down the river, they 
found the tracks of the mule, evidently driven 



192 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

along by Indians, whose tracks were on each 
side of those made by the animal. After going 
several miles, they came to the mule itself, stand- 
ing in some bushes, mortally wounded in the 
side by an arrow, and left to die, that it might 
be afterwards butchered for food. They also 
found in another place, as they were hunting 
about on the ground for Tabeau's tracks, some- 
thing that looked like a little puddle of blood, 
but which the darkness prevented them from ver- 
ifying. With these details they returned to our 
camp, and their report saddened all our hearts. 

"ilia?/ 10. This morning, as soon as there was 
light enough to follow tracks, I set out myself 
with ]Mr. Fitzpatrick and several men in search 
of Tabeau. We went to the spot where the 
appearance of puddled blood had been seen ; 
and this, we saw at once, had been the place 
where he fell and died. Blood upon the leaves 
and beaten-down bushes, showed that he had 
got his wound about twenty paces from where 
he fell, and that he had struggled for his life. 
He had probably been shot through the lungs 
with an arrow. From the place where he lay 
and bled, it could be seen that he had been 
dragged to the river bank, and thrown into it. 
No vestige of what had belonged to him could 
be found, except a fragment of his horse equip- 
ment. Horse, gun, clothes — all became the prey 
of these Ai'abs of the New World. 



UTAH LAKE. 193 

" Tabeau had been one of our best men, and 
his unhappy death spread a gloom over our 
party. Men, who have gone through such dan- 
gers and sufferings as we had seen, become like 
brothers, and feel each other's loss. To defend 
and avenge each other, is the deep feeling of 
all. We wished to avenge his death ; but the 
condition of our horses, languishing for grass 
and repose, forbade an expedition into unknown 
mountains. We knew the tribe who had done 
the mischief — the same which had been insulting 
our camp. They knew what they deserved, and 
had the discretion to show themselves to us no 
more. The day before, they infested our camp ; 
now, not one appeared ; nor did we ever after- 
wards see but one who even belonged to the 
same tribe, and he at a distance." 

The circumstances of the murder, by these 
savages, of one of the tried and faithful followers 
of Fremont, shows the perils that always hang 
round a party travelling tlnough the regions over 
which they roam. 

On the 24th of May, the expedition, having 
skirted the southern rim of the great basin, 
reached the Utah Lake. At this point it is emi- 
nently proper to let Fremont himself review his 
route. 

" Early the next day we came in sight of the 
lake ; and, as we descended to the broad bottoms 
of the Spanish Fork, three horsemen were seen ' 

17 



194 LIFE OF FREMONT, 

galloping towards us, who proved to be Utah 
Indians — scouts from a village, which was en 
camped near the mouth of the river. They 
were armed with rifles, and their horses were in 
^ood condition. We encamped near them, on 
the Spanish Fork, which is one of the principal 
tributaries to the lake. Finding the Indians 
tToublesome, and desirous to remain here a day, 
we removed the next morning further down the 
lake, and encamped on a fertile bottom near 
the foot of the same mountainous ridge which 
borders the Great Salt Lake, and along which 
we had journeyed the previous September. 

" We had now accomplished an object we had 
in view when leaving the Dalles of the Columbia 
in November last; we had reached the Utah 
Lake ; but by a route very different from what 
we had intended, and without sufficient time 
remaining to make the examinations which were 
desired. It is a lake of note in this country, 
under the dominion of the Utahs, who resort to 
it for fish. Its greatest breadth is about fifteen 
miles, stretching far to the north, narrowing as it 
goes, and connecting with the Great Salt Lake. 

" In arriving at the Utah Lake, we had com- 
pleted an immense circuit of twelve degrees 
diameter north and south, and ten degrees east 
and west ; and found ourselves in May, 1844, on 
the same sheet of water which we had left in 
September, 1843. The Utah is the southern 



GEOGRAPHY OF THE CONTINENT. 195 

limb of the Great Salt Lake ; and thus we had 
seen that remarkable sheet of water both at its 
northern and southern extremity, and were able 
to fix its position at these two points. The 
circuit which we had made, and which had 
cost us eight months of time, and 3,500 miles of 
travelling, had given us a view of Oregon and 
of North California from the Rocky Mountains 
to the Pacific ocean, and of the two principal 
streams which form bays or harbors on the coast 
of that sea. Having completed this circuit, and 
being now about to turn the back upon the 
Pacific slope of our continent, and to recross the 
Rocky Mountains, it is natural to look back upon 
our footsteps, and take some brief view of the 
leading features and general structure of the 
country we had traversed. These are peculiar 
and striking, and differ essentially from the 
Atlantic side of our country. The mountains 
all are higher, more numerous, and more dis- 
tinctly defined in their ranges and directions; 
and, what is so contrary to the natural order of 
such formations, one of these ranges, which is 
near the coast, (the Sierra Nevada and the Coast 
Range,) presents higher elevations and peaks 
than any which are to be found in the Rocky 
Mountains themselves. In our eight months' 
circuit, we were never out of sight of snow ; 
and the Sierra Nevada, where we crossed it, 
was near 2,000 feet higher than the South Pass 



196 LIFE OF FREMONT, 

in the Rocky Mountains. In height, these 
mountains greatly exceed those of the Atlantic 
side, constantly presenting peaks which enter 
the region of eternal snow ; and some of them 
^volcanic, and in a frequent state of activity. 
They are seen at great distances and guide the 
traveller in his courses. 

" The course and elevation of these ranges give 
direction to the rivers, and character to the coast. 
No great river does, or can, take its rise below 
the Cascade and Sierra Nevada Range ; the dis- 
tance to the sea is too short to admit of it. The 
rivers of the San Francisco Bay, which are the 
largest after the Columbia, are local to that bay, 
and lateral to the coast, having their sources 
about on a line with the Dalles of the Columbia, 
and running each in the valley of its own, 
between the Coast Range and the Cascade and 
Sierra Nevada Range. The Columbia is the 
only river which traverses the whole breadth 
of the country, breaking through all the ranges, 
and entering the sea. Drawing its waters from 
a section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocky 
Mountains, which are collected into one stream 
by three main forks, (Lewis's, Clark's, and the 
North Fork,) near the centre of the Oregon 
valley, this great river thence proceeds by a 
single channel to the sea, while its three forks 
lead each to a pass in the mountains, which 
opens the way into the interior of the continent. 



geoghaphy of the continent. 197 

This fact in relation to the rivers of this region 
gives an immense value to the Columbia. Its 
mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from 
the sea ; its three forks lead to the passes in the 
mountains ; it is, therefore, the only line of com- 
munication between the Pacific and the interior 
of North America ; and all operations of war or 
commerce, of national or social intercourse, must 
be conducted upon it. This gives it a value 
beyond estimation, and would involve irreparable 
injury if lost. In this unity and concentration 
of its waters, the Pacific side of our continent 
differs entirely from the Atlantic side, where the 
waters of the Alleghany Mountains are dispersed 
into many rivers, having their different entrances 
into the sea, and opening many lines of commu- 
nication with the interior. 

" The Pacific coast is equally different from 
that of the Atlantic. The coast of the Atlantic 
is low and open, indented with numerous bays, 
sounds, and river estuaries, accessible every- 
where, and opening by many channels into the 
heart of the country. The Pacific coast, on the 
contrary, is high and compact, with few bays, 
and but one that opens into the heart of the 
country. The immediate coast is what the sea- 
men call iron bound. A little within, it is skirted 
by two successive ranges of mountains, standing 
as ramparts between the sea and the interior 
country ; and to get through which, there is but- 



198 . LIFE OF FREMONT. 

one gate, and that narrow and easily defended. 
This structure of the coast, backed by these two 
ranges of mountains, with its concentration and 
unity of waters, gives to the country an immense 
military strength, and will probably render Ore- 
gon the most impregnable country in the world. 
" Differing so much from the Atlantic side of 
our continent, in coast, mountains, and rivers, 
the Pacifio side differs from it in another most 
rare and singular feature — ^that of the Great in- 
terior Basin, of which I have so often spoken, 
and the whole form and character of which I 
was so anxious to ascertain. Its existence is 
vouched for by such of the American traders 
and hunters as have some knowledge of that 
region ; the structure of the Sierra Nevada range 
of mountains requires it to be there ; and my 
own observations confirm it. Mr. Joseph Walker, 
who is so well acquainted in those parts, in- 
formed me that, from the Great Salt Lake west, 
there was a succession of lakes and rivers which 
have no outlet to the sea, nor any connection 
with the Columbia, or with the Colorado of the 
Gulf of California. He described some of these 
lakes as being large, with numerous streams, 
and even considerable rivers, falling into them. 
In fact, all concur in the general report of these 
interior rivers and lakes ; and, for want of under- 
litanding the force and power of evaporation, 
which so soon establishes an equilibrium be- 



GEOGRAPHY OF THE CONTINENT. 199 

tween the loss and supply of waters, the fable of 
whii'lpools and subterraneous outlets has gained 
belief as the only imaginable way of carrying 
off the waters which have no visible discharge. 
The structure of the country would require this 
formation of interior lakes ; for the waters which 
would collect between the Rocky Mountains and 
the Sierra Nevada, not being able to cross this 
formidable barrier, nor to get to the Columbia 
or the Colorado, must naturally collect into res- 
ervoirs, each of which would have its little 
system of streams and rivers to supply it. This 
would be the natural effect ; and what I saw 
went to confirm it. The Great Salt Lake is a 
formation of this kind, and quite a large one ; 
and having many streams, and one considerable 
river, four or five hundred miles long, falling into 
it. This lake and river I saw and examined 
myself; and also saw the Wahsatch and Bear 
Hiver Mountains which enclose the waters of 
the lake on the east, and constitute, in that quar- 
ter, the rim of the Great Basin. Afterwards, 
along the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, 
where we travelled for forty-two days, I saw the 
line of lakes and rivers which lie at the foot of 
that Sierra; and which Sierra is the western 
rim of the Basin. In going down Lewis's Fork 
and the main Columbia, I crossed only inferior 
streams coming in from the left, such as could 
draw their water from a short distance only ; and 



200 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

I often saw the mountains at their heads, white 
with snow ; which, all accounts said, divided the 
waters of the desert from those of the Columbia, 
and which could be no other than the range of 
mountains which form the rim of the Basin on 
its northern side. And in returning from Cali- 
fornia along the Spanish trail, as far as the head 
of the Santa Clara Fork of the E-io Virgen, I 
crossed only small streams making their way 
south to the Colorado, or lost in sand — as the 
Mo-hah-ve ; while to the left, lofty mountains, 
their summits white with snow, were often visi- 
ble, and which must have tm^ned water to the 
north as well as to the south, and thus consti- 
tuted, on this part, the southern rim of the Basin. 
At the head of the Santa Clara Fork, and in the 
Vegas de Santa Clara, we crossed the ridge 
which parted the two systems of waters. V/e 
entered the Basin at that point, and have trav- 
elled in it ever since, having its southeastern rinf 
(the Wahsatch mountain) on the right, and 
crossing the streams which flow down into it. 
The existence of the Basin is, therefore, an es- 
tablished fact in my mind ; its extent and con- 
tents are yet to be better ascertained. It cannot 
be less than four or five hundred miles each way, 
and must lie principally in the Alta California ; 
the demarcation latitude of 42^ probably cutting 
a segment from the north part of the. rim. Of 
its interior, but little is known. It is called a 



GREAT BASIN. 201 

desert, and, from what I saw of it, sterility may 
be its prominent characteristic ; but where there 
is so much water, there must be some oasis. 
The great river and the great lake reported 
may not be equal to the report ; but where there 
is so much snow, there must be streams ; and 

■ where there is no outlet, there must be lakes to 
hold the accumulated waters, or sands to swal- 

, low them up. In this eastern part of the basin, 
containing Sevier, Utah, and the Great Salt 
lakes, and the rivers and creeks falling into 
them, we know there is good soil and good 
grass, adapted to civilized settlements. In the 
western part, on Salmon-trout Kiver, and some 
other streams, the same remark may be made. 

" The contents of this Great Basin are yet to 
be examined. That it is peopled, we know ; but 
miserably and sparsely. From all that I heard 
and saw, I should say that humanity here ap- 
J^eared in its lowest form, and in its most ele- 
mentary state. Dispersed in single families ; 
without fire-arms ; eating seeds and insects ; 
digging roots, (and hence their name ;) such is 
the condition of the greater part. Others are a 
degree higher, and live in communities upon 
some lake or river that supplies fish, and from 
which they repulse the miserable digger. The 
rabbit is the largest animal known in this desert ; 
its flesh affords a little meat ; and their bag-like 
I overing is made of its skins. The wild sage is 



202 LIFE OF FEEMONT. 

their only wood, and here it is of extraordinary 
size — sometimes a foot in diameter, and six or 
eight feet high. It serves for fuel, for building 
material, for shelter to the rabbits, and for some 
sort of covering for the feet and legs in cold 
weather. Such are the accounts of the inhabit- 
ants and productions of the Great Basin ; and 
which, though imperfect, must have some foun- 
dation, and excite our desire to know the whole. 

" The whole idea of such a desert and such a 
people, is a novelty in our country, and excites 
Asiatic, not American ideas. Interior basins, 
with their own systems of lakes and rivers, and 
often sterile, are common enough in Asia ; 
people in the elementary state of families, living 
in deserts, with no other occupation than the 
mere animal search for food, may still be seen in 
that ancient quarter of the globe; but in Amer- 
ica such things are new and strange, unknown 
and unsuspected, and discredited when relatedt. 
But I flatter myself that what is discovered, 
though not enough to satisfy curiosity, is suffi- 
cient to excite it, and that subsequent explora- 
tions will complete what has been commenced. 

" This account of the Great Basin, it will be 
remembered, belongs to the Alta California, and 
has no application to Oregon, whose capabilities 
may justify a separate remark. Referring to my 
Journal for particular descriptions, and for sec- 
tional boundaries between good and bad districts. 



OREGON. 203 

I can only say, in general and comparative terms, 
that, in that branch of agriculture which implies 
the cultivation of grains and staple crops, it 
would be inferior to the Atlantic States, though 
many parts are superior for wheat, whUe in the 
rearing of flocks and herds it would claim a high 
place. Its grazing capabilities are great; and 
even in the indigenous grass now there, an ele- 
ment of individual and national wealth may be 
found. In fact, the valuable grasses begin within 
one hundred and fifty miles of the Missouri fron- 
tier, and extend to the Pacific Ocean. East of 
the Rocky Mountains, it is the short, curly grass, 
on which the buffalo delight to feed, (whence its 
name of buffalo,) and which is still good when 
dry and apparently dead. West of those moun- 
tains it is a larger growth, in clusters, and hence 
called bunch grass, and which has a second or 
fall growth. Plains and mountains both exhibit 
them ; and I have seen good pasturage at an 
elevation of ten thousand feet. In this sponta- 
neous product, the trading or travelling cara- 
vans can find subsistence for their animals ; and 
in military operations any number of cavalry 
may be moved, and any number of cattle may 
be driven, and thus men and horses be supported 
on long expeditions, and even in winter in the 
sheltered situations. 

" Commercially, the value of the Oregon coun- 
try must be great, washed as it is by the North 



204 LIFE OF FREMONT, 

Pacific Ocean, fronting Asia, producing many of 
the elements of commerce, mild and healthy in 
its climate, and becoming, as it naturally will, 
a thoroughfare for the East India and Chinu 
trade." 

Having examined the Three Parks, or coves 
in the mountains, where the great rivers, the 
Platte, the Arkansas, and the Colorado severally 
take their rise, Mr. Fremont continued his route 
homeward with no further noticeable occurrence, 
except an occasional encounter with armed bands 
of Indians, who, always finding him ready to 
fight, limited their demonstrations to mere pre- 
liminary bravadoes. When within a fortnight 
of the end of the journey, the river suddenly 
overflowed its banks one night, and nearly all 
the perishable collections that the hard labor of 
many months had accumulated, were destroyed 
in a moment. 

The Report of Lieut. Fremont's Second Ex- 
pedition concludes as follows : — 

" Here ended our land journey ; and the day 
following our arrival, we found ourselves on 
board a steamboat, rapidly gliding down the 
broad Missouri. Our travel-worn animals had 
not been sold and dispersed over the country to 
renewed labor, but were placed at good pastm*- 
age on the frontier, and are now ready to do 
their part in the coming expedition. 

" On the 6th of August we arrived at St. 



ARUIVAL HOME. 205 

Louis, where the party was finally disbanded, a 
greater number of the men having their homes 
in the neighborhood. 

" Andreas Fuentes also remained here, having 
readily found employment for the winter, and is 
one of the men engaged to accompany me the 
present year. 

" Pablo Hernandez remains in the family of 
Senator Benton, where he is well taken care of, 
and conciliates good-wUl by his docility, intelli- 
gence, and amiability. General Almonte, the 
Mexican Minister at Washington, to whom he 
was of course made known, kindly offered to 
take charge of him, and to carry him back to 
Mexico ; but the boy preferred to remain where 
he was until he got an education, for which he 
shows equal ardor and aptitude. 

" Our Chinook Indian had his wish to see the 
whites fully gratified. He accompanied me to 
Washington, and, after remaining several months 
at the Columbia College, was sent by the Indian 
Department to Philadelphia, where, among other 
things, he learned to read and write well, and 
Bpeak the English language with some fluency. 

" He will accompany me in a few days to the 
frontier of Missouri, whence he will be sent with 
some one of the emigrant companies to the vil- 
lage at the Dalles of the Columbia." 

Appended to the Reports of the First and 
Second Expeditions, as published together, in 

18 



206 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

1845, by order of Congress, besides the usual 
scientific tables, records, specimens, and calcula- 
tions, there is a map, of which the author gives 
the following account, in the preface. 

" This map may have a meagre and skeleton 
appearance to the general eye, but is expected 
to be more valuable to science on that account, 
being wholly founded upon positive data and 
actual operations in the field. About ten thou- 
sand miles of actual travelling and traversing in 
the wilderness which lies between the frontiers 
of Missouri and the shores of the Pacific, almost 
every camping station being the scene of astro- 
nomical or barometrical observations, furnish the 
materials out of which this map has been con- 
structed. Nothing supposititious has been ad- 
mitted upon it ; so that, connecting with Capt. 
Wilkes's survey of the mouth of the Columbia, 
and with the authentic surveys of the State of 
Missouri, it fills up the vast geographical chasm 
between these two remote points, and presents a 
connected and accurate view of our continent 
from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. 

" To this geographical map, delineating the 
face of the country over which we travelled, 
there is added another in profile, showing the 
elevations, or the rise and fall of the country 
from the Mississippi to the Pacific. East of the 
Rocky Mountains, two of these profile views are 
given, — one from St. Louis to the South Pass, 



PROFILE MAP. 207 

the other from the mouth of the Great Platte to 
the same point. The latter is the shortest ; and 
following, as it does, the regular descent of the 
river, and being seven hundred miles west of the 
Mississippi, it may be that the eastern terminus 
of this line may furnish the point at which the 
steamboat and the steam-car may hereafter meet 
and exchange cargoes in their magic flight across 
this continent. These profile views, following 
the travelling routes, of course follow the lowest 
and levellest lines, and pass the mountain at the 
point of its greatest depression; but to complete 
the view, and to show the highest points as well 
as the lowest levels, many lofty peaks are 
sketched at their proper elevations, towering 
many thousands of feet above the travelling line. 
It may here be excusable to suggest that these 
profile maps here exhibited are, perhaps, the most 
extended work of the kind ever constructed, be- 
ing fr-om St. Louis (according to the route we 
travelled) near sixteen hundred miles to the 
South Pass ; from the mouth of the Great Platte 
to the same Pass, about one thousand more ; and 
then another sixteen hundred from that Pass to 
fhe tide-water of the Oregon ; in all, about four 
thousand miles of profile mapping, founded upon 
nearly four hundred barometrical positions, with 
views sketched and facts noted in the field as 
we went." 



CHAPTER IV. 

THJRD EXPEDITION ARKANSAS GREAT BASIN — 

HAWKS PEAK ON THE SIERRA TLAMATH LAKE. 

On the 29th of January, 1845, President Tyler, 
with the advice and consent of the Senate of 
the United States, conferred upon Lieut. Fre- 
mont a Brevet commission of Captain in the 
corps of Topographical Engineers. He was 
brevetted to a First Lieutenancy- and a Captain- 
cy, at the same time. For this distinguished 
compliment he was indebted, in part, to the 
instrumentality of the commanding General of 
the Army. 

In the fall of that year he started on his Third 
Expedition. This was his last under the aif- 
fchority of the Government. It terminated in 
operations and results so remote from its design, 
as a mere exploration, and led to such extraordi- 
nary, engrossing, and complicated engagements, 
that the publication of a full report has been 

( 208 ) 



ARKANSAS. 209 

necessarily postponed. The two next expedi- 
tions were at his own cost, and unconnected 
altogether with the Government. It is under- 
stood that he is availing himself of every oppor- 
tunity of leisure, to prepare for the press a 
thorough and complete Report of the last three 
expeditions. The materials are in his hands, in 
field notes, daily journals, and all the elements of 
astronomical, meteorological, and other scientific 
observations. He carried on his last exploration 
a daguerreotype apparatus, and has a very exten- 
sive set of plates, exhibiting, by that infallible 
process, the lines and features of the wild scenery 
and modes of life in the interior regions of the 
continent. Besides these he has a collection of 
pencil sketches, of great excellence of execution, 
and colored drawings made upon the spot, with 
specimens of objects natural and artificial, gath- 
ered in his long wanderings. The publication 
of this work will complete' his service, and his 
fame, as a scientific explorer. Until that is done, 
only a brief and fragmentary account can be 
given of the last expeditions. 

He went oitt, in the third expedition, by the 
northern head waters of the Arkansas, then the 
boundary line of the country, to the south side 
of the Great Salt Lake, and thence directly 
across the central basin, towards California, in a 
route of which he was the first explorer. Upon 
reaching the neighborhood of the Sierra Nevada, 

18 * 



210 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

he concluded that, in the worn and weakened 
condition of his men and animals, they would 
not be able to surmount the barrier at that point;- 
and, being short of provisions, it was necessary 
to get as speedily as possible into the country 
beyond, where supplies could be obtained. He 
therefore divided his party. Leaving all the 
provisions with the main body of it, he directed 
them to follow along the eastern border of the 
Sierra, towards the South, to' a certain pass, 
which he named ; while, with a selected company 
of fifteen men, entirely unencumbered, he would 
attempt to scale the mountains, get provisions 
on the other side at Sutter's, and go to their 
relief on the appointed route. The plan, so far 
as his part was concerned, entirely succeeded. 
He got across the mountains, with his light party, 
in six hours, proceeded to Sutter's, purchased 
fifty cattle, and drove them down the western 
side of the Sierra to meet the main body of his 
people. Unfortunately they mistook the pass, 
misled by a similarity of name ; wandered far on 
to a distant pass, towards the south, and at last 
found their way through. Fremont remained 
waiting and roaming for them, in the wild and 
mountainous country along the western slope of 
the Sierra, having frequent hard fights with the 
savage tribes that infested them, until his cattle 
were wasted by exhaustion, and destroyed by 
injuries among the sharp rocks. Finally, he 



CALIFORNIA. 211 

abandoned the search, and going down to the 
California settlements, learned that his company, 
after many sufferings, had come into the country 
by a different route from that directed by him, 
quite remote from the point where he had ex- 
pected to meet them. They had been placed 
under the command of Joseph Walker, an ex- 
perienced mountaineer and excellent traveller, 
whose name is given to one of the principal 
passes through the mountain ranges. The mis- 
take of the route was no fault of his. It seems 
that there are two rivers of the same name. 
Fremont knew of one. Walker of the other ; and 
neither knew that there was more than one. Or- 
ders were sent to Walker to go, with his party, to 
San Jose, and there remain until Fremont should 
join them. Wishing to avoid all occasion of 
ill-will, or suspicion, on the part of the Mexican 
authorities in California, he went alone to Mon- 
terey, and made himself known to Mr. Larkin, 
the consul of the United States in that city, and, 
accompanied by him, waited upon Alvarado, the 
Alcalde, Manuel Castro, the Prefecto, and Carlos 
Castro, the commanding general, who constituted 
the leading authorities of the country. He com- 
municated his object in coming into California, 
stating that he had not a single soldier of the 
United States army in his party, and that his 
sole purpose was a scientific exploration of the 
continent, with a view of ascertaining the best 



212 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

mode of establishing a commercial intercourse 
between the Atlantic and Pacific regions. He 
requested permission to winter in the country, 
recruit his company, and continue his explorations. 
His request was granted. He then repaired to 
his party at San Jose, where they remained 
several weeks. 

Shortly after this interview with General 
Castro, orders were received by that officer to 
drive Captain Fremont out of the country, or 
send him prisoner to the city of Mexico. Of 
these orders Fremont had no knowledge untU a 
long time afterwards. The first intimation he 
had of any unfriendly feeling towards him, was 
in certain movements, at various points, which 
seemed to have a threatening aspect, as if aimed 
at him. But the interview with Castro, and the 
other high officers at head quarters, was so 
recent, and had been so friendly and cordial, that 
he could hardly believe that the appearances that 
had attracted his attention were meant against 
him. At length, however, on the 3d of March, 
when within about twenty-five miles of Monterey, 
he was met by an officer, who had a detachment 
of eighty dragoons in his rear to enforce his 
message, with a letter from Castro, ordering him, 
without any explanation, peremptorily, out of 
the country. The communication was in such 
a tone, so entirely in violation of the arrange- 
ment made at Monterey, on his visit to the 



HAWKS PEAK. 213 

authorities of the country, in that place ; and the 
demonstrations were, all around, of such a 
belligerent look and character, that Captain 
Fremont felt no disposition to pay a hurried 
obedience to the order. He marched, with his 
party, directly to a lofty hill, called Hawks 
Peak. It commanded a view, to a great extent, 
all around the country. In that pure atmosphere, 
distant objects were clearly seen, and brought 
minutely to view by the aid of spy-glasses. It 
was evident that preparations were actively 
going on to attack him. The enemy was seen 
scaling his guns, and gathering Californians and 
Indians into his ranks. Captain Fremont at 
once proceeded to fortify his position, and erected 
a staff on its highest point, forty feet in length, 
and unfurled from it the flag of his country. 
His own spirit pervaded his whole party. Al- 
though few in number, and far away from aid, 
in the heart of a foreign country, thus suddenly 
assuming a hostile attitude towards them, they 
were determined to defend themselves against 
any assault, by however great a force it might 
be made, and were thoroughly prepared to meet 
the last extremity. 

On the 9th, Consul Larkin succeeded in effect- 
ing a communication with Fremont, informing 
him of the preparations going on to attack him. 
The following note, in pencil, was sent in reply. 

" My dear Sir: I this moment received your 



214 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

letters, and, without waiting to read them, ac- 
knowledge the receipt, which the courier requires 
immediately. I am making myself as strong as 
possible, in the intention that if we are unjustly 
attacked, we will fight to extremity and re- 
fuse quarter, trusting to our country to avenge 
our death. No one has reached our camp, and, 
from the heights, we are able to see troops (with 
the glass) mustering at St. John's, and preparing 
cannon. I thank you for your kindness and good 
wishes, and would write more at length as to my 
intentions did I not fear that my letter would be 
intercepted. We have, in nowise, done wrong 
to the people or the authorities of the country ; 
and, if we are hemmed in and assaulted here, 
we will die, every man of us, under the flag of 
our country. 

Very truly yours, 

J. C. Fremont. 

P. S. I am encamped on the top of the Sierra, 
at the head waters of a stream which strikes the 
road to Monterey at the house of Don Joaquin 
Gomes. 

Thomas O. Larkin, Esq., Consul for the United 
States at Monterey." 

The Delawares kept an unfailing watch from 
every peak, or lofty crag ; and with the instinc- 
tive and long-practised vigilance, clear sighted- 
ness, and quick discernment of their race, gave 
notice of every movement in all directions. One 



HAWKrf PEAK. 215 

morning at sunrise every thing indicated a near 
impending assault, by overwhelming numbers. 
Fremont addressed his people, who assured him 
.with one voice that they were ready to meet 
death with him on the spot rather than surren- 
der. The Delawares prepared themselves at 
once for their last battle. They arrayed them- 
selves in their full finery, put their red war paint 
on themselves and on their horses, and with all 
iheir weapons in order, made the circuit of the 
camp, singing their war and death songs, their 
chargers prancing, in apparent sympathy with 
their riders in the solemn but exultant enthusi- 
asm of the occasion. But the enemy shrunk 
from the crisis. On another occasion, they were 
discovered approaching, by moonlight. Fremont 
selected twenty-five of his men, and went out 
to meet them. They fled in surprise as he 
dashed down upon them. At another time, he 
went out during the day with a select band to 
reconnoitre, and ascertain more particularly the 
intentions of the enemy. After several days, as 
Castro ventured upon no attack, he concluded 
to move from his position at Hawks Peak. His 
people urged him strenuously to allow them to 
make a night assault upon Castro's camp, but 
he refused to gratify them. He was determined 
to originate no hostile movement, but confine 
himself wholly to the resistance of violence, and 
to such a course as. would show that his only 



216 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

object was to have it understood that he was 
not to be driven out of the country by any such 
summary and intimidating methods as Castro 
had adopted. He therefore moved down into 
the San Joaquin Valley, and by moderate and 
deliberate marches tin-ned up through North 
California towards Oregon and the Columbia 
River. 

Colonel Benton, in a speech in the Senate, 
characterized the course of Fremont, in hoisting 
the flag of his country at Hawks Peak, in well- 
deserved and well-expressed language : — 

" Such was the reason for raising the flag. It 
was raised at the approach of danger ; it was 
taken down when danger disappeared. It was 
well and nobly done, and worthy of our admira- 
tion. Sixty of our countrymen, three thousand 
miles from home, in sight of the Pacific Ocean, 
appealing to the flag of their country, unfurling 
it on the mountain-top, and determined to die 
under it, before they would submit to unjust 
aggression." 

At the close of Fremont's second expedition, 
Carson, in taking leave of him, promised, in 
case a tliird expedition were organized, to join 
it. In the mean time he had settled near Taos. 
On reaching Bent's Fort, when going out on 
his third expedition, Fremont sent a message 
reminding him of his promise, and saying that 
he would wait there for him. Although Carson 



11 



TLAMATH LAKE. 217 

had purchased a farm, intending thenceforth 
to lead a quiet life — so sacred did he regard his 
promise, and so strong was his affection for his 
old commander — he instantly sold his house and 
land, at a very considerable sacrifice, and joined 
the expedition in four days after receiving Fre- 
mont's note. He put his family under the care 
of Governor Bent during his absence. Their 
wives were sisters. When afterwards the In- 
dians fell upon Taos, massacring, among others, 
Governor Bent, Mrs. Carson saved her life by 
flight. 

Carson's services were as usual invaluable 
throughout the third expedition, and signal on 
many occasions. In withdrawing from Califor- 
nia, Fremont had reached the northern end of 
the Tlamath Lake in Oregon, -and was about 
exploring a new route into the Willhameth 
Valley. The Tlamath Indians are brave and 
warlike. They are rendered particularly form- 
idable by their iron arrow-heads and axes, 
procured from the British trading forts north 
of the Columbia River. Their barbed arrows 
cannot be extracted but by cutting the flesh. 

On the night of the 8th of May, a couple of 
horsemen, who did not have the appearance of 
Indians, were seen approaching in that out of 
the way and far-off place. They proved to be 
two of Fremont's companions, in his previous 
explorations, sent on by that dangerous route to 
19 



218 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

overtake him, with information that Mr. Gilles- 
pie, with three men, was behind, with despatches 
to him from the Government, that he had been 
a long time on the route searching for him, had 
endured much suffering, and encountered many 
perils by the way. Fremont the next morn 
ing took nine men, and making all haste to 
reach Gillespie, so as to protect his small party 
from the Indians, rode sixty miles that day, 
meeting him at its close. The story of that 
night was narrated by Carson some years after- 
wards. It will be related now in his words, as 
then used. When Carson told the story to the 
gentleman who noted it down at the time, Fre- 
mont had become a colonel. 

" Mr. Gillespie had brought the Colonel letters 
from home, — ^the first he had had since leaving 
the States the year before, — and he was up, and 
kept a large fire burning until after midnight ; 
the rest of us were tired out, and all went to 
sleep. This was the only night in all our trav- 
els, except the one night on the Island in the 
Salt Lake, that we failed to keep guard ; and as 
the men were so tired, and we expected no at- 
tack now that we had fourteen in the party, ^the 
Colonel did not like to ask it of them, but sat 
up late himself. Owens and I were sleeping 
together, and we were waked at the same time 
by the licks of the axe that killed our men. 
At first, I did not know it was that ; but I called 




C^l"" S"^"'^'™!'"^ ""■ W'l'^ ! 1 I ! c ■ . ul SJ>liK H' ' jlW 



NIGHT ASSAULT BY INDIANS. 219 

to Basil, who was that side : ' What 's the mat- 
ter there ? What 's the fuss about ? ' He never 
answered, for he was dead then, poor fellow, — 
and he never knew what killed him. His head 
had been cut in, in his sleep ; the other groaned 
a little as he died. The Delawares (we had 
four with us) were sleeping at that fire, and they 
sprang up as the Tlamaths charged them. One 
of them (named Crane) caught up a gun, which 
was unloaded ; but, although he could do no 
execution, he kept them at bay, fighting like a 
soldier, and did not give up until he was shot 
full of arrows, three entering his heart ; he died 
bravely. As soon as I had called out, I saw it 
was Indians in the camp, and I and Owens 
together cried out * Indians.' There were no 
orders given ; things went on too fast, and the 
Colonel had men with him that did not need to 
be told their duty. The Colonel and I, Max- 
well, Owens, Godey, and Stepp jumped to- 
gether, we six, and ran to the assistance of our 
Delawares. I don't know who fired and who 
didn't ; but I think it was Stepp's shot that 
killed the Tlamath chief ; for it was at the crack 
of Stepp's gun that he fell. He had an English 
half-axe slung to his wrist by a cord, and there 
were forty arrows left in his quiver, the most 
beautiful and warlike arrows I ever saw. He 
must have been the bravest man among them, 
from the way he was armed, and judging by his 



220 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

cap. When the Tlamaths saw him fall, they 
ran ; but we lay, every man with his rifle cocked, 
until daylight, expecting another attack. 

" In the morning we found by the tracks that 
from fifteen to twenty of the Tlamaths had 
attacked us. They had killed three of our men, 
(besides Basil and the Delaware, a half-breed 
Iroquois, named Dennie,) and wounded one of 
the Delawares, who scalped the chief whom we 
left where he fell. Our dead men we carried on 
mules ; but after going about ten miles, we 
found it impossible to get them any further 
through the thick timber, and finding a secret 
place, we buried them under logs and chunks, 
having no way to dig a grave. It was only a 
few days before this fight that some of these 
same Indians had come into our camp ; and, 
although we had only meat for two days, and 
felt sure that we should have to eat mules for 
ten or fifteen days to come, the Colonel divided 
with them, and even had a mule unpacked to 
give them some tobacco and knives." 

As Carson states, in the foregoing narrative, 
the Colonel remained awake, and up, after aU 
others in the encampment had gone to sleep. 
The letters, which brought him the first intelli- 
gence of his family and home, called back 
reminiscences and started associations that 
coursed through his mind, Idndling its deepest 
sensibilities. As he gazed upon the dyijig 



NIGHT ASSAULT BY INDIANS. 221 

embers of the camp fires, his thoughts wandered 
in a reverie of fancy and emotion. Although 
the moon was shining brightly above the forest, 
beneath its branches all was dark, and its recesses 
impenetrable to the vision. Solemn silence 
reigned over the scene and the hour. His 
wearied and faithful people were in profound 
repose, and he watched that they might rest. 
It was midnight. Suddenly the horses started 
as if some danger assailed them. As such 
alarms often spring from trivial causes, Fremont 
did not arouse his men, but taking a six -barrel 
pistol in his hand, went noiselessly around to 
the various points where the animals were 
picketed, listened from time to time, and exam- 
ined all parts of the encampment. AU was 
stiU, and no danger seemed near. The horses, 
reassured by his presence, became quiet, and 
returned to their rest. Having thus reconnoitred 
the ground, in cautious exploration, he con- 
cluded that all was safe. Indeed, he had dis- 
missed the idea of the possibility of danger from 
Indians at that time. Since the morning he had 
ridden sixty miles, too rapidly to be followed, 
and seen none by the way. The two advanced 
couriers, and after them, Gillespie with only his 
three remaining men, had just passed unharmed 
over the country, from the opposite direction, 
and it seemed quite certain that there could be 
no enemy in the neighborhood. Convinced by 

19* 



222 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

these considerations, he yielded to silence and 
fatigue, and had fallen into unconsciousness 
himself, when, the moon having sunk below 
the trees, the attack began. 

It is not unlikely that, during all the previous- 
hours of that night, savage eyes were upon him 
as he mused and watched before the fire. It i% 
always a main point with Indians, in attacking 
a party, to kill the commander. The Tlamath? 
were undoubtedly lurking around the camp, 
when the horses started ; and as Fremont went 
to find the' cause of the alarm, they m^ay have 
lost sight of him, and his life have thus been 
saved. 

To show the profound duplicity and treachery 
of those Indians, the following statement made 
by Mr. Gillespie under oath before the com- 
mittee on military affairs of the Senate of the 
United States, is presented. 

" I started upon Captain Fremont's trail upon 
the 2d of May, much against the earnest appeals 
and advice of the settlers, who informed me 
that the Indians, through whose country I would 
have to pass, were very hostile, and v/ould, in 
all probability, defeat so small a party. How- 
ever, considering their fears somewhat exagger 
ated, I determined to overtake Captain Fremont 
at all hazards. Upon the 7th of May, finding 
the signs of the camp very fresh, I ordered two 
of the men, Neal and Sigler, to proceed ahead 



NIGHT ASSAULT BY INDIANS. 223 

upon the best and fleetest horses, to overtake 
and inform Captain Fremont of my approach 
I arrived at the Tlamath Lake at sunset of the 
same day. Our provisions were exhausted, and 
game could not be found. Not being able to ford 
the river, the outlet of the lake, I determined to 
encamp upon its banks, hoping to hear the next 
morning from my men, or receive a message 
from Captain Fremont, whom I supposed at no 
great distance from me. "We remained here 
until the morning of the 9th, full forty hours, 
without any thing to eat, when, at about 8 
o'clock, a party of Indians came to us, a chief 
bringing me a fresh salmon just from the lake. 
They also brought two canoes, and took us 
across the lake, and showed us every disposition 
to be friendly. Riding about 30 miles over the 
mountains, I came to a party, about sunset, 
which proved to be Captain Fremont, with 
nine of his men, who had rode sixty miles that 
day to meet me." 

When Gillespie's men examined the body 
and countenance of the Indian, left dead in the 
camp, it was found to be the identical chief, 
who, the morning before, had brought the fresh 
salmon to them, and professed such exceeding 
friendliness of disposition towards them ! There 
can be no doubt that immediately after setting 
them across the river, and making such an ac- 
ceptable present to them, he collected his mur- 



224 LIFE OF FBEMONT. 

derous party, and dogged them, unseen, the 
whole day, indulging the confident purpose of 
cutting them off at night, which he woul^i have 
done had not Fremont made his extraordinary 
effort to meet them. Gillespie, in his testi- 
mony, says : " The Indians had followed on my 
trail, and but for the promptness of Captain 
Fremont, my small party would have been 
overpowered by superior numbers, and killed." 

This is a specimen of that instantaneous 
decision of purpose, which has marked the 
course of Fremont, and from which such con- 
sequences have often flowed, as seem to look 
like an overruling Providence, determining his 
judgment, in the apparent absence of ordinary 
considerations and inducements. Upon the 
arrival of Gillespie's advanced couriers, he in- 
stantly, and without a moment's delay, prepared 
his select troop, and rode 60 miles, feeling that 
it was necessary to reach him before another 
night. If he had not done this, he never would 
have received the communication that carried 
him back to California, and the sequel will 
show how disastrously the current of the world's 
affairs would, in that event, have been turned 
from its course. 

The circumstance of that midnight tragedy 
in the far-off wilderness that most touches the 
feeling heart, is the death of Basil. His noble 
nature has been indicated in some passages of 



BASIL LAJEUNESSE. 225 

this memoir. He was in the bloom of life. He 
was generousj disinterested, and as beautiful as 
brave. His manly energy and powers of endur- 
ance were unsurpassed. His person and char- 
acter bore the impress of Nature's choicest 
stamp. The sudden extinction of such a life is 
an affecting and impressive event. Deeply did 
his commander and companions mourn his 
death. When, in distant centuries, a civilized 
population shall surround the Tlamath Lake, the 
story of Basil Lajeunesse will give a romantic 
interest to the shore where his ashes rest. 



CHAPTER V. 

NORTH CALIFORNIA BEAR WAR CONQUEST OP 

CALIFORNIA WAH-LAH-WAH-LAH INDIANS IN- 
SURRECTION CALIFORNIA BATTALION — 'INSUR- 
GENTS SURRENDER TO FREMONT CAPITULATION 

OF COWENGA. 

Mr. Gillespie delivered to Captain Fremont 
a brief letter of introduction from Mr. Buchanan, 
Secretary of State. It was not deemed safe to 
commit to writing the communication he had 
been sent to make, and for which he had sought 
Fremont at such hazard, and at so remote a 
point. It was entrusted to his memory, to be, 
conveyed by word of mouth, and was in sub- 
stance to this effect : That a rupture between the 
United States and Mexico being not improb- 
able, it was the wish of the Government that 
Fremont should keep himself in a favorable po- 
sition to watch the state of things in California, 
conciliate the feelings of its people, encourage a 
friendship with the United States, and do what 
be could to prevent that country falling into the 

( 228 ) 



KIT CARSON. 227 

hands of Great Britain. In obedience to this 
suggestion, he began to retrace his steps into 
Cahfornia. 

On the second day after the murder of Basil 
and the two Indians, by the Tlamaths, Carson, 
who was ahead with ten men, came upon their 
village, containing more than a hundred warriors. 
Fremont had given orders to send back and let 
him come up, in case they met Indians. But it 
was too late to delay a moment, when the enemy 
was first seen, and Carson, with his small de- 
tachment, rushed at once upon the village, and, 
after a sharp conflict, put the whole to flight. 
Several of the Tlamaths were killed, and their 
village destroyed. During the same day there 
was another encounter with the Indians, in which 
Carson came very near losing his life. An In- 
dian was seen fixing his arrow to let fly at him. 
He instantly levelled his rifle, but it snapped, 
when Fremont, seeing his danger, flew to his 
rescue, dashed his horse upon the Indian and 
knocked him over. " I owe my life," as Car- 
son expresses himself, when relating the incident, 
" I owe my life to them two — the Colonel and 
Sacramento saved me." Sacramento was a 
favorite iron-gray horse of Colonel Fremont. 
He was presented to him by Captain Sutter in 
1844, and earned his name by swimming that 
river at the close of a long day's journey. After 
bearing his master several times across the con- 



228 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

tinent, he has been honorably discharged. His 
service performed and his warfare ended, he 
is now roaming in freedom his native valley. 
He has rejoined the wild horses of the California 
plains, and suffers no Indian or hunter to ap- 
proach him. His master has never attempted to 
reclaim him, and all efforts on the part of others 
to capture him have proved fruitless. 

When Captain Fremont came into North Cal- 
ifornia, he found the whole country in a state of 
great alarm. The entire population of Califor- 
nia at that period, exclusive of Indians, was 
estimated at about ten thousand, one fifth of 
whom were foreigners, chiefly from the United 
States. General Castro was the military com- 
mander, and was actively exerting his influence 
to aggravate the jealousy of the native Calif or- 
nians towards foreign residents. He had issued 
a proclamation aimed at Americans particularly, 
and requiring them to leave the country. It be- 
came evident that measures had been for aome 
time secretly concerting among many of the 
leading Spanish Californians, to transfer the 
country to the protection and control of Great 
Britain, and to drive out or exterminate all Amer- 
ican settlers ; (that is, as the word is universally 
understood, all settlers from the United States ;) 
to expel them utterly, with their families ; and to 
take possession of their lands. In order to ac- 
complish this more effectually, the Indian tribes 



BEAR WAR. 229 

were made to participate in the conspiracy, and 
instigated to burn and destroy the crops and 
houses of Americans. This condition of things, 
of course, spread the utmost alarm among the 
intended victims of the plot. When Captain 
Fremont came down into the Sacramento Val- 
ley, men, women, and children flocked to him 
for protection, and appealed to him as a country- 
man. His means of information were very ex- 
tensive and reliable. There were many American 
settlers, who had been several years in the coun- 
try, intermarrying in some cases with California 
families, men of education and large property, 
like Dr. Marsh, and all of them more or less able 
to discover Vv^hat was going on, not merely among 
the people, but in the consultations of the au- 
thorities. With them Captain Fremont kept up 
constant communication. 

From these sources of information he obtained 
intimations of a scheme, the authentic and ofli- 
cial records of which he afterwards found in the 
archives of California, while occupying the gov- 
ernment house in Los Angeles. 

A Catholic priest, named Eugenio Macna- 
mara, in the year 1845 and the early part of 
1846, was domesticated with the British legation 
at the city of Mexico. During that time he 
made application for a grant of land for the pur- 
pose of establishing a colony in California. He 
asked for a square league, containing 4,428 acres, 

2.) 



230 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

to be given to each family, and that each child 
of a colonist should have half a square league. 
The territory to be conveyed to him should be 
around San Francisco Bay, embrace three thou- 
sand square leagues, and include the entire val- 
ley of the San Joaquin. He agreed to bring a 
thousand families at the beginning. His object 
is stated in his memorial to the Mexican Presi- 
dent, in these words: — 

" I propose, with the aid and approbation of 
your excellency, to place in Upper California a 
colony of Irish Catholics. I have a triple object 
in making this proposition. I wish, in the first 
place, to advance the cause of Catholicism. In 
the second, to contribute to the happiness of my 
countrymen. Thirdly, I desire to put an obstacle 
in the waij of further usurpations on the part of 
an irreligious and anti- Catholic nationP 

His proposal was favorably entertained by the 
central government. It was referred, for a final 
decision, to the landholders and local authorities 
of California. Conventions were about being 
held to perfect the arrangement. Macnamara 
was landed, from the British frigate Juno, one of 
Sir George Seymour's fleet, at Santa Barbara, 
just at this time. Every thing was ripe for a 
final settlement of the whole matter ; and by 
virtue of this grant of land to Macnamara, the 
whole country would have passed under British 
protection. 



BEAR WAR. 231 

Some intimations of this deeply devised 
scheme had reached the public ear, and tended 
to increase the excitement, alarm, and agitation 
of the American settlers. 

The point was reached at which it became 
necessary for Fremont to decide. The Indians 
had begun to burn the crops of the American 
settlers, and were assembled in a large force of 
about six hundred warriors, at or near what is 
known as Redding's Rancho, about thirty-five or 
forty miles from his encampment. He must 
either qiiit the country, and leave the American 
settlers, with their wives and children, to utter 
ruin and a fearful fate, or he must step forward 
as their defender. He must either let that vast 
region pass into the hands of a foreign power, 
or take instant possession of it by his own 
sword. It was a fearful but a great crisis in his 
life. To head a rebellion in a country with 
which his own, so far as he then knew, was at 
peace, was assuming a most serious responsi- 
bility. But the question was then and tliere to 
be decided. He decided it in favor of those who 
sought his protection, and took the responsibility 
of his position at once. He called his men to- 
gether, laid before them the state of the case, and 
referred to the destruction impending over those 
residents of California who were their country- 
men. He told them that he had no right, as a 
United States officer, to resist the authorities, or 



232 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

make war upon the subjects, of a government 
with which his country was at peace. He would 
however release them, for the time being, from 
the conditions of their service under him as a 
United States officer, and relinquish his com- 
mand. If they wished to volunteer in defence 
of the American settlers and their families, they 
were at liberty to do so. He concluded by an- 
nouncing that he should himself do it forthwith. 
They unanimously declared their readiness to 
join him, and appointed him their commander. 
He instantly marched against the Indians, leav- 
ing about half a dozen men to defend the camp. 
He broke up and dispersed five villages in one 
day, in such rapid succession that notice of his 
approach could not be sent forward; reached 
their assembled force before sundown ; found 
them engaged in their war dance, in black paint 
and white feathers, preparatory to their med- 
itated blow upon the settlers ; attacked them on 
sight ; and, at the first charge, routed and scat- 
tered them, driving them into the river and the 
woods. At a single stroke, in one day, he thus 
utterly annihilated the Indian combination, and 
rescued the settlers from threatening ruin, with- 
out the loss of a man. 

He then returned to camp, and removed his 
force to a place called the Buttes, about sixty miles 
above Sutter^s Settlement. From that point he 
put himself into communication with all friendly 



at 




i!' ■■! -"iil li 



,'!'i :' 



mK ' 



BEAR WAR. 233 

to the movement. Not long after he received 
information that Castro had assembled about 
400 men at Santa Clara, and that he had sent 
an officer, with a detachment, to Sonoma, to 
procure horses to complete the equipment of his 
force. Fremont instantly started a small body 
of men, who volunteered for the service, and 
chose Ezekiel Merritt for then* leader, to inter- 
cept Castro's detachment on its return. The 
service was gallantly executed, and with entire 
success. The whole body, horses and all, was 
captured. The prisoners were released, but the 
horses brought in. 

By rapid and vigorous movements Castro's 
forces were all driven from the country north of 
the bay of San Francisco. At Sonoma, General 
Vallejo, two colonels, and other prisoners were 
taken. A squadron of eighty men, under Cap- 
tain De la Torre, remained for a short time on a 
peninsula, at Saucelito, on the northern side of 
the bay, directly opposite Castro's encampment 
on the east side ; but he was pressed so hard, that 
he abandoned his horses, and escaped in launches 
across the bay to Castro. Fremont found there 
a bark from the Eastern States, commanded by a 
patriotic American, Wm. D. Phelps, of Lexington, 
Mass., who entering heartily into the business lent 
him his launch, into which he jumped, with twelve 
.men, and rowed over to San Francisco, about 
eight miles, where there was a fort with a bat- 



234 LIEE OF FREMONT. 

tery of guns, mostly brass field-pieces, which 
they spiked, employing for the purpose steel 
files, used for sharpening knives, which Captain 
Phelps happened to have on board his bark. 

Having thus established the independence of 
North California, Fremont sent a message to 
Castro, that as he could not get his horses over 
the bay, if he would wait for him, he would 
pass around its head as quickly as possible, and 
meet him where he was at Santa Clara, and 
end the contest for the country at once. 

On his way round, finding himself at Sonoma 
on the 4th of July, the day was duly celebrated. 
On the next day, a great concourse of people, 
American settlers, and others sympathizing in 
the cause, having come to meet and welcome 
him, he declared the country Independent, and 
the flag of the free state of California, a grizzly 
bear on a white field, was unfurled. 

By the celerity of these bold movements, the 
Indian enemy was annihilated, the settlers saved 
from massacre, and their fields from desolation ; 
the power of Mexico over North California was 
broken down forever ; and, as we shall soon see, 
the whole of that golden empire secured to the 
United States. 

^ On the 10th of July, Fremont reached, on his 
way to Santa Clara, in the fulfilment of his 
promise to Castro, the nearest point at which, 
cavalry could get around the head of the bay, 




^*''i|||||i'!|lf^ 



BEAR WAR. 235 

at Sutter's Fort. About sunset an express 
reached him from Commodore Sloat, announc- 
ing his capture of Monterey. The next morning, 
at sunrise, he hoisted the flag of the American 
Union at the fort, under a national salute, and 
with great rejoicings. Thus ended what was 
called the " Bear war." 

He then moved down with great celerity 
along the south side of the bay. His troop 
consisted of 160 mounted riflemen. Castro fled 
before him, and on the 19th of July he reached 
Monterey. Of his entrance into that city a very 
graphic account is given by Lieutenant the Hon. 
Frederick Walpole, of the Royal Navy, in a 
work published in London, with the following 
title : " Four years in the Pacific, in her Majes- 
ty's ship < CoUingwood,' from 1844 to 1848." 

" During our stay in Monterey," says Lieu- 
tenant Walpole, " Captain Fremont and his party 
arrived. They naturally excited curiosity. Here 
were true trappers, the class that produced the 
heroes of Fenimore Cooper's best works. These 
men had passed years in the wilds, living upon 
their own resources ; they were a curious set. 
A vast cloud of dust appeared first, and thence 
in long file emerged this wildest wild party. 
Fremont rode ahead, a spare, active-looking 
man, with such an eye ! He was dressed in a 
blouse and leggings, and wore a felt hat. After 
him came five Delaware Indians, who were his 



236 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

body-guard, and have been with him tlirough all 
his wanderings ; they had charge of two bag- 
gage horses. The rest, many of them blacker 
than the Indians, rode two and two, the rifle 
held by one hand across the pommel of the 
saddle. Thirty-nine of them are his regular 
men, the rest are loafers picked up lately; his 
original men are principally backwoodsmen, from 
the State of Tennessee and the banks of the 
upper waters of the Missouri. He has one or 
two with him who enjoy a high reputation in 
the prairies. Kit Carson is as well known there 
as the duke is in Europe. The dress of these 

fmen was principally a long loose coat of deer 
skin, tied with thongs in front ; trowsers of the 

/ same, of their own manufacture, which, when 
wet through, they take off, scrape well inside 
with a knife, and put on as soon as dry; the 
saddles were of various fashions, though these 
and a large drove of horses, and a brass field- 
gun, were things they had picked up about 
California. They are allowed no liquor, tea and 
sugar only ; this, no doubt, has much to do 
with their good conduct ; and the discipline, too, 
is very strict. They were mi arched up to an 
open space on the hills near the town, under 
some large firs, and there took up their quarters, 
in messes of six or seven, in the open air. 
The Indians lay beside their leader. One man, 
a doctor, six feet six high, was an odd-looking 
fellow. May I never come under his hands ! 



FREMONT S TROOP. 237 

" In justice to the Americans I must say, they 
-seemed to treat the natives well, and their au- 
thority extended every protection to them. 

" The butts of the trappers' rifles resemble a 
Turkish musket, therefore fit light to the shoul- 
der ; they are very long and very heavy, carry 
ball about thirty-eight to the pound. A stick a 
little longer than the barrel is carried in the bore, 
in which it fits tightly ; this keeps the bullet 
from moving, and in firing, which they do in a 
crouching position, they use it as a rest." 

A lieutenant in the American Navy, (now a 
commander,) George Minor, under examination 
by the military committee of the United States 
Senate, described the impression made upon 
him, by Fremont's entrance into Monterey, in 
these words, taken from his deposition: — 

" The undersigned was on duty on shore when 
Captain Fremont arrived with his force at Mon- 
terey, from the North. The undersigned believes 
that the appearance of this body of men, and the 
well-known character of its commander, not only 
made a strong impression upon the British Ad- 
miral and officers,, but an equally impressive and 
more happy one upon those of the American 
Navy then in Monterey. For himself, the un- 
dersigned can say, that after he had seen Captain 
Fremont's command, all his doubts about the 
conquest of California were removed." 

The vital importance to this country of Cap- 



238 LIFE OF FEEMONT. 

tain Fremont's bold measures in North Cali- 
fornia is. demonstrated by a few dates and facts, 
and some obvious reflections upon them. 

Commodore Sloat with an American, and 
Admiral Sir George Seymour with a British, 
squadron, had, for several weeks, been at anchor 
in Mazatlan, a Mexican port on the Pacific, 
waiting to catch the first intelligence of the 
breaking out of hostilities between that Republic 
and the United States. Commodore Sloat got 
the first intelligence, and started for California. 
Sir George Seymour followed. The Commo- 
dore arrived first, entering the harbor of Mon- 
terey, on the 2d of July, 1846. He did not then 
take possession of the place. He probably had 
no thought of doing it, as appears by his last 
letter to the Secretary of the Navy, dated June 6, 
just one month before, and written at Mazatlan, 
in which he says : " Since my No. 50, of the 
31st of May, I have upon more mature reflection, 
come to the conclusion that your instructions of 
the 24th of June last, and every subsequent 
order, will not justify my taking possession of 
any part of California, or any hostile measure 
against Mexico, (notwithstanding their attack 
upon our troops,) as neither party has declared 
war." On the 5th of July, the third day after his 
entering the port, a launch arrived belonging to 
the United States ship Portsmouth, Commander 
Montgomery, then lying in San Francisco Bay, 



CONQUEST OF CALIFORNM. 239 

bringing information of Fremont's operations 
in North California. Commodore Sloat very 
naturally supposed that Fremont was acting 
under instructions, and that supposition led to 
the change of purpose which he stated in a letter, 
dated July 6, and sent by the retm-ning launch 
to Commander Montgomery. In it he says : 
" Since I wrote you last evening, I have deter- 
mined to hoist the flag of the United States at 
this place, to-morrow, as I would prefer being 
sacrificed for doing too much than too little. If 
you consider you have sufficient force, or if 
Fremont will join you, you will hoist the flag of 
the United States at Yerba Buena, or any other 
proper place, and take possession, in the name 
of the United States, of the fort, and that portion 
of the country." 

Accordingly, on the next day, July 7, he 
hoisted the American flag over Monterey. Sir 
George Seymour arrived in the " Collingwood," 
of 80 guns, on the 15th or 16th of July. 

These dates show that Commodore Sloat took 
possession of Monterey, on the 7th, in conse- 
quence of the information he received on the 5th 
of Fremont's operations, as, indeed, he declared 
at the time. If the American flag had not been 
flying over Monterey, when Sir George Seymour 
arrived, it is impossible to estimate the mis- 
chievous consequences that would have ensued. 
Commodore Sloat would, undoubtedly, have 



240 . LIFE OF FREMONT. 

resisted with the bravery of a tried veteran, any 
forcible attempt of Sir George to take the place, 
but it would have been impossible for him to 
have prevented a voluntary transference of the 
country to the protection of Great Britain, in 
fulfilment of the arrangements before entered 
into by its leading inhabitants and authorities. 

That the country was saved by Fremont's 
operations, from being in that way brought 
under British dominion, was the judgment, at the 
time, of all acquainted with the circumstances. 

Captain Samuel Hensley, declared under 
oath to the military committee of the Senate, 
to this effect. 

" I did understand from general report that the 
authorities of California were about to grant 
certain tracts of land in California to an Msh 
priest, for the purpose of establishing a colony 
of British subjects, the said priest, Macnamara, 
having been brought to California in an English 
vessel of war ; and my impression is that the 
timely movements on the part of the settlers 
in the north, Colonel Fremont and others, pre- 
vented the execution of the transfer." 

Similar testimony was given by many others. 
It seems that Macnamara was with Sir George 
Seymour at Monterey. But it was too late. 
The war between Mexico and the United States 
had undoubtedly begun. The American flag 
was floating over California. No neutral power 



COMMODORE STOCKTON. 241 

had a right to interfere ; and the whole scheme 
of Macnamara's grant, the Irish colony, and a 
British Protectorate, was scattered to the winds. 
This, then, is the sum of the whole matter. 

The hoisting of our flag at Monterey, on the 
7th of July, 1846, saved California and the Pa- 
cific coast to the United States, and prevented a 
disastrous collision between this country and 
Great Britain. That flao^ was hoisted in conse- 
quence of Fremont's gallant achievements in 
North California. He is therefore entitled to 
the glory of having saved California from falling 
into the hands of a foreign power, and secured 
the extension of our Union over the whole 
breadth of the continent, from shore to shore. 

Immediately after the events just related, 
Commodore Sloat sailed for the United States, 
leaving Commodore Stockton, who had an-ived 
a few day& before, in command. Fremont, with 
his volunteers, embarked on board the sloop- 
of-war Cyane for San Diego. Landing there, 
he marched to lios Angeles, the then capital 
of California. Commodore Stockton, having 
landed his force at San Pedro, reached Los 
Angeles first, and, on the 17th of August, com- 
pleted and proclaimed the conquest of Cali- 
fornia. Castro fled to Sonora. 

Fremont continued to act under Commodore 
Stockton, receiving various successive appoint- 
ments from him, as major of the California 

21 



242 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

battalion, afterwards military commandant of 
California, and finally governor and commander- 
in-chief in California. Early in September, 
Captain Fremont left Los Angeles. A few 
weeks afterwards, an extensive insurrection 
broke out in southern California. Fremont, 
who had returned to the Sacramento country, 
immediately set about raising a battalion 
among the settlers there to aid in its suppres- 
sion. 

At this time an additional panic arose from 
the report of an Indian invasion from the 
north. It was said that 1,000 Wah-lah-wah- 
lahs were advancing to attack Sutter's Fort. 
The whole country was aroused, and every 
element of disposable force was drawn out to 
meet the threatened danger. Fremont had 
already assembled a body of several hundred 
western riflemen towards the completion of his 
California battalion, when the news reached 
him. He was quite confident that the story 
was exaggerated ; but it was necessary to restore 
security in the northern frontier. He took three 
tried men with him, and went directly to meet 
the Wah-lah-wah-lahs. He found them much 
less ' numerous than had been represented, but 
assembled in considerable force, and in a state 
of the greatest exasperation. He went, with his 
three men, directly into their midst. One of 
them knew him, and all gathered round him to 



WAH-LAH-WAH-LAH INDIANS. 243 

tell their wrongs. They had been robbed, and 
one of their best young men kiUed, by the 
whites. He promised them redress if they 
would follow his advice. He told them that 
he was going to the south, and could not 
attend to them until the spring, but that he 
would then meet them, at a place agreed upon, 
and have justice done them. He advised them, 
in the mean time, to go off on a winter hunt, 
said that he would let one of his own men go 
with them, to hold over them the United States 
flag, and that whoever struck that flag struck 
him. They were perfectly subdued by his talk, 
and manner of treating them: at once gave up 
their plan of attacldng the whites ; and agreed 
to go off on a winter hunt. They gave him ten 
of their young braves to go with him, who 
proved themselves among the best in his bat- 
talion. In the spring of the year, he met them, 
although at a great inconvenience, and gave 
them of his own horses until they were satis- 
fied. In this way he not only stopped an 
Indian war, and recruited his own ranks, but he 
taught a lesson which it would be well to have 
inculcated upon those who undertake to grapple 
with our Indian difficulties, and enforced upon 
the administration of that department of our 
government. 

On the 12th of October, Fremont, with his 
battalion, arrived at San Francisco. He there 



244 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

embarked his command, in the ship Sterling, to 
go down the coast to Santa Barbara. He left 
his horses, intending to remount his men, in the 
south. Two days out, he fell in with the " Van- 
dalia," a merchant ship, and learned that no 
horses could be had below, the Californians 
having driven their entire stock into the interior. 
He Immediately determined to retm*n to Mon- 
terey and make the march over land. While in 
Monterey, on the 27th of October, he learned 
that he had been appointed a lieutenant-colonel 
of a rifle regiment in the army of the United 
States. His commission was dated May 29, 
and signed by President Polk. 

As this appointment— by which one who had 
originally entered the army in an irregular way, 
taken from the civil service, vaulted over the 
heads of so many — may possibly have had some- 
thing to do with certain unpleasant occurrences 
afterwards, the grounds on which it was made 
must be borne in mind. They were well stated 
in one of the public journals at the time, which 
expresses his eminent qualifications, as fol- 
lows : " His intimate knowledge of the country, 
in which the regiment was designed to serve, 
acquired by his indefatigable explorations of the 
whole extent of it ; his being accustomed to face 
danger in every form ; his induration to the 
hardships of the wilderness ; and his knowledge 
of the character of the tribes that wander over 
those desolate regions." 



INSUKRECTION. 245 

Having despatched a courier to the Sacra- 
mento Valley, to fill up his troops and obtain 
additional supplies, he made all the necessary 
preparations for an arduous winter march. In 
the mean time the insurrection had assumed a 
formidable character. A party of four hundred 
American sailors and marines, on their way 
from San Pedro to Los Angeles, were beaten 
back, with the loss of six men killed, by a 
strong force of Californians. Los Angeles and 
Santa Barbara were in their hands. Larkin, 
the United States consul, had been taken 
prisoner. Captains Burroughs and Foster and 
Mr. Eames, were killed in a severe skirmish 
while escorting a lot of horses to Fremont's 
camp. Captain Burroughs, on this occasion, 
rode Fremont's horse, Sacramento. When the 
captain fell, he was in front of his men. The 
sagacious animal seemed to comprehend fully 
the relations of the fight. Immediately, upon 
losing his rider, he dashed back to his own party, 
wheeled into the ranks, and was impatient to 
bear another hero against the foe. On this 
occasion, one of the Wah-lah-wah-lah Indians 
performed a remarkable feat of heroism. He 
volunteered to carry intelligence to Col. Fre- 
mont of the attack. He was closely pursued by 
the enemy, one of whom, having nearly over- 
taken him, drove his lance at him ; in trying to 
parry it, he received it through his hand ; with 

21* 



246 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

the other hand he grasped his tomahawk, and 
in an instant clave the sknll of his pursuer. 
Two others overtook him and shared the same 
fate in succession. He rode on until his horse 
gave out, and then reached Monterey on foot. 

Col. Fremont immediately started. His force 
consisted of four hundred mounted men, and 
three pieces of artillery under the command of 
Lieut. McLane of the navy. A large drove of 
beef cattle follow'ed to serve as provisions on 
the march. At San Juan, on the 29th of No- 
vember, a party of emigrants, who had recently 
crossed the country, made a most valuable acces- 
sion to his force, comprising many men of supe- 
rior intelligence and standing, and contributing 
essentially to the energy of the expedition. 
One of them, Edwin Bryant, who, in 1849, 
published a work on California, served as a first 
lieutenant of one of the companies, and became 
alcalde of San Francisco. He gives the follow- 
ing account of the regiment : — 

" There are no plumes nodding over brazen 
helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with 
lace and buttons ; a broad-brimmed, low-crowned 
hat, a shirt of blue flannel or buckskin, with pan- 
taloons and moccasins of the same, all generally 
much the worse for wear, and smeared with mud 
and dust, make up the costume of the party, 
officers as well as men. A leathern gudle sur- 
rounds the waist, from which are suspended a 



- CALIFORNIA BATTALION. 247 

bowie and a hunter's knife, and sometimes a 
brace of pistols. These, with the rifle and hol- 
ster pistols, are the arms carried by oflficers and 
privates. A single bugle composes the band." 

The staff"-ofncers were Lieutenant- Colonel J, 
C. Fremont, commanding ; A. H. Gillespie, Ma- 
jor ; P. B. Reading, Paymaster ; Henry King, 
Commissary ; J. R-. Snyder, Quartermaster ; Wil- 
liam H. Kussell, Ordnance Officer; J. Talbot, 
Adjutant ; and J. J. Myers, Sergeant-Major. 

In the course of his narrative of the march, 
Mr. Bryant bestows this encomium upon the 
regiment, which all other accounts amply jus- 
tify :— 

" The men composing the California battalion 
have been drawn from many sources, and are 
roughly clad and weather-beaten in their exte- 
rior appearance ; but I feel it but justice to state 
my belief, that no military party ever passed 
through an enemy's country and observed the 
same strict regard for the rights of its popula- 
tion. I never heard of an outrage or even a 
trespass being committed by one of the Amer- 
ican volunteers during our entire march. Every 
American appeared to understand perfectly the 
duty which he owed to himself and others in 
this respect, and the deportment of the bat- 
talion might be cited as a model for imita- 
tion." 

After marcliing one hundred and fifty miles, 



248 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

they surprised, in a night of pitchy darkness, 
San Louis Obispo, the seat of a district com- 
mandant, without firing a gun, and captured 
Don Jesus Pico, the head of the insurrection in 
that quarter. Two days afterwards, December 
16th, Pico was tried by a court-martial, and 
condemned to death, for breaking his parole. 
The next day, about an hour before noon, at 
which time the execution was to take place, a 
procession of females, headed by a lady of fine 
appearance, proceeded to the quarters of Col. 
Fremont, and with all the fervor natural to a 
mother, wife, children, and near relatives, under 
such circurhstances, implored for mercy, and, 
prostrate and in tears, begged for the life of 
the convict. Their supplication was granted. 
Pico, who had borne himself with perfect cool- 
ness and firmness at the trial, and had prepared 
to die with " the solemn dignity of a Spaniard," 
when brought in and informed of his pardon, 
flung himself with unrestrained emotion before 
Col. Fremont, clasped his knees, swore eternal 
fidelity, and begged the privilege of fighting and 
dying for him. 

His subsequent conduct proved him faithful 
to his pledge. Some have blamed Col. Fremont 
for his clemency on this occasion ; but he knew 
better than they know the great and deep laws' 
of om' nature. He knew well the people of 
California, who were more truly subdued by 



INSURGENTS SURRENDER TO FREMONT. 249 

that act of mercy, than by all the bloodshed of 
battle, and all the terrors of our power. 

On the 27th of December, the battalion 
entered without resistance the town of Santa 
Barbara, where it remained recruiting until the 
3d of January, 1847. On the 11th of January, 
while pursuing their march, they were met by 
two Californians, riding in great haste, bare- 
headed, whor informed them that the American 
forces, under Commodore Stockton, had retaken 
Los Angeles, after a victorious engagement with 
the insurgent forces. The enemy's force was 
understood to be in the vicinity, and the next 
day two California officers came into camp to 
treat for peace. After full consultation, articles 
were agreed upon on the 13th of January, 1847. 
They stipulated that all Californians should 
deliver up their arms, return peaceably to their 
homes, not take up arms again during the war 
between the United States and Mexico, and 
assist and aid in keeping the country in a state 
of peace and tranquillity. Any Californian or 
citizen of Mexico, who might desire to do so, 
was to be permitted to leave the country, and 
none be required to take the oath of allegiance 
to the United States, until a treaty of peace 
should be signed and made between the United 
States and Mexico. The articles of capitulation 
were signed by officers duly commissioned for 
the purpose, and approved by " J. C. Fremont, 



250 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Lieutenant- Colonel U. S. Army, and Military 
Commandant of California, and by Andres Pico, 
Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the 
National Forces of California." 

This was the " Capitulation of Cowenga." 
It terminated the war so far as California was 
concerned. No hostile arm was ever again 
lifted, except in the ordinary form of local In 
dian outbreaks, within the limits of that State, 
against the authority of the United States. It 
secured reconciliation as well as peace. It is in 
evidence, on the records of the government, that 
the final conquest of California could not have 
been accompKshed by any forces then on the 
Pacific coast, without the aid of the California 
battalion ; and that, had it not been consum- 
mated by the Treaty of Cowenga, a " bloody, 
vexatious, and predatory warfare " would surely 
have been protracted for an indefinite length of 
time. The whole western slope of the Sierra 
Nevada would have aiforded safe retreats, inac- 
cessible to naval and even regular military 
forces, from which ravaging parties would have 
rushed down upon the plains, and where insur- 
rectionary movements would have been fomented 
perpetually. Fremont terrified the Californians 
and the Indians by the celerity and boldness of 
his movements, and he conquered their hearts 
by the good conduct of his men, and the mod 
eration and clemency of his policy. 



CAPITULATION OF COWENGA. 251 

In a despatch from General Kearney to the 
War Department at Washington, dated Ciudad 
de los Angeles, January 14, 1847, he says : — 

" This morning, Lieutenant- Colonel Fremont, 
of the regiment of mounted riflemen, reached 
here with four hundred volunteers from the Sac- 
ramento ; the enemy capitulated with him yes- 
terday, near San Fernando, agreeing to lay 
down their arms, and we have now the prospect 
of having peace and quietness in this country, 
which I hope may not be interrupted again." 

Mr. Bryant, in his book, gives a minute ac- 
count of the course of the California battalion 
from Monterey to Los Angeles. It was in mid- 
winter, over a rough country, in rain and storm, 
one of the hardest marches ever made, exhaust- 
ing to the strength of men, and most destructive 
to the animals. On one occasion it seemed as 
if all would sink under fatigue and suffering. 
Fremont thus refers to it, in a document drawn 
out in subsequent proceedings : " We pursued 
our march, passing the towns on the way with- 
out collision with the people, but with great 
labor from the state of the roads and rains. On 
Christmas day, 1846, we struggled on the Santa 
Barbara Mountain in a tempest of chilling rains 
and winds, in which a hundred horses perished ; 
but the men stood to it, and I mention it to 
their honor." 



CHAPTER VI. 

ARRIVAL OF GENERAL KEARNEY DIFFICULTIES 

BETWEEN COMMANDERS ARREST COURT-MAR- 
TIAL. 

It is necessary at this point to go back a few 
months. After completing the original conquest 
of California, taking possession of Ciudad de 
los Angeles, its capital, and providing for the 
administration of a civil and military govern- 
ment over it. Commodore Stockton and Col- 
onel Fremont sent Carson, with fifteen men, to 
Washington with despatches, relating all that 
had taken place. He was to make the journey 
and return in 140 days, subsisting on his mules 
as he went. Having crossed the wilderness in 
about thirty days, he met General Kearney, on 
his way to California to conquer that country ! 
Upon receiving the intelligence which Carson 
brought, Kearney divided his command, and 
with a portion of it continued on towards Cali- 
fornia, taking Carson back with him. "When he 
reached the borders of California it was at the 

( 2a2 ) 



GENERAL KEARNEY. 253 

height of the insurrectionary movement, and he 
was met by the enemy in great force. After 
one or two bloody encounters, he was hemmied 
in at a particular point, reduced to a state of 
siege, and for want of grass or water brought to 
a serious extremity. It was only about thirty 
miles from San Diego. Carson, and Passed 
Midshipman Beale, volunteered to go there for 
relief. Accompanied by a Delaware Indian they 
crawled at night through the enemy's lines. To 
prevent noise they took off their shoes, and un- 
fortunately lost them. Concealing themselves 
by day, they reached their destination the second 
night ; having had to travel in a circuit, the dis- 
tance had been about fifty miles. Their flesh 
was torn and bleeding from the rocks and 
thorns, and they were haggard with hunger, 
anxiety, and sleeplessness, but relief was ob- 
tained, and General Kearney's command was 
saved. 

He had reached Los Angeles only a few days 
before the capitulation of Cowenga, and was 
there when Col. Fremont arrived with his bat- 
talion. 

At this point a very disagreeable state of 
things arose, involving many unpleasant per- 
sonal embarrassments. The government at 
Washington, being at such a great distance 
from the scene of operations, — communications 
having for the most part to pass around Gape 

22 



254 LIFE OF freMont. 

Horn, — and not knowing the state of things at 
any given time, had to frame instructions to its 
officers in general terms. It was impossible to 
be specific, for no one could tell what the state 
of facts might be when the officer or his des- 
patches should reach the fecene. General Kear- 
ney would not have been sent out at all, had the 
government imagined that Fremont and Stock- 
ton had already subdued the country. Then, 
unfortunately, a quick succession of naval com- 
manders passed over the stage — Sloat, Stockton, 
Shubrick, and Biddle — each liable to interpret 
his duty variously. Sailors were turned into 
soldiers, and performed long land marches. The 
consequence was that difierences of judgment 
arose, and questions of priority and precedence 
were entertained. 

Col. Fremont had not, it is probable, turned 
his attention much to such questions. His life 
had been crowded with far different thoughts 
and interests. The absence of the higher grades 
in our naval service tended to increase the diffi- 
culty. At any rate, in point of fact, he found 
Commodore Stockton and General Kearney 
disputing the right to command. It was to him 
an open question. He had, however, performed 
his work, and received his appointments, under 
Stockton. 

It may be proper here to quote the view he 
took of the subject at the time, as frankly given in 



DIFFICULTIES BETWEEN COMMANDERS. 255 

a letter to a friend. Although overruled, after- 
wards, by the judgment of a court-martial, it is 
evidently a sincere opinion, and however at vari- 
ance with the artificial code of military etiquette, 
one which a person of plain common sense 
might very naturally have entertained. 

" When I entered Los Angeles I was igno- 
rant of the relations subsisting between these 
gentlemen, having received from neither any 
order or information which might serve as a 
guide in the circumstances. I therefore, imme- 
diately on my arrival, waited upon the governor 
and commander-in-chief. Commodore Stockton ; 
and, a few minutes afterwards, called upon 
General Kearney. I soon found them occupy- 
ing a hostile attitude, and each denying the 
right of the other to assume the direction of 
affairs in this country. 

" The ground assumed by General Kearney 
was, that he held in his hand plenary instruc- 
tions from the President directing him to con- 
quer California, and organize a civil government, 
and that consequently he would not recognize 
the acts of Commodore Stockton. 

" The latter maintained that his own instruc- 
tions were to the same effect as Kearney's ; that 
this officer's commission was obsolete, and never 
would have been given could the Government 
have anticipated that the entire country, sea- 
board and interior, would have been conquered 



256 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and held by himself. The country had been 
conquered and a civil government instituted 
since September last, the constitution of the ter- 
ritory, and appointments under the constitution, 
had been sent to the government for its approval, 
and decisive action undoubtedly long since had 
upon them. General Kearney was instructed 
to conquer the country, and upon its threshold 
his command had been nearly cut to pieces, and, 
but for relief from him (Commodore Stockton) 
would have been destroyed. More men were 
lost than in General Taylor's battle of the 8th. 
In regard to the remaining part of his instruc- 
tions, how could he organize a government with- 
out first proceeding to disorganize the present 
one ? His work had been anticipated; his com- 
mission was absolutely void, null, and of no 
effect. 

" But if General Kearney believed that his in- 
structions gave him paramount authority in the 
country, he made a fatal error on his arrival. 
He was received with kindness and distinction 
by the Commodore, and offered by him the 
command of his land forces. General Kearney 
rejected the offer and declined interfering with 
Commodore Stockton. This officer was then 
preparing for a march to Ciudad de los Angeles, 
his force being principally sailors and marines, 
who were all on foot, (fortunately for them,) and 
who were to be provided with supplies on their 



DIFFICULTIES BETWEEN COMMANDERS. 257 

march through an enemy's country where all the 
people are cavalry. His force was paraded, and 
ready to start, 700 in number, supported by six 
pieces of artillery. The command, under Com- 
modore Stockton, had been conferred upon his 
first lieutenant, Mr. Rowan. At this juncture 
General Kearney expressed to Commodore 
Stockton his expectation that the command 
would have been given to him. The Commo- 
dore informed the General that Lieutenant 
Rowan was in his usual line of duty, as on 
board ship, relieving him of the detail and 
drudgery bf the camp, while he himself re- 
mained the commander-in-chief; that if General 
Kearney was willing to accept Mr. Rowan's 
place, under these circumstances, he could have 
it. The General assented. Commodore Stock- 
ton called up his officers and explained the case. 
Mr. Rowan gave up his post generously and 
without hesitation ; and Commodore Stockton 
desired them clearly to understand that he re- 
mained the commander-in-chief; — under this 
arrangement the whole force entered Angeles ; 
and on the day of my arrival at that place 
General Kearney told me that he did then, at 
that moment, recognize Commodore Stockton 
as governor of the territory. 

" You are aware that I had contracted rela- 
tions with Commodore Stockton, and I thought 
U neither right nor politically honorable to 

22* 



258 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

withdraw my support. No reason of interest 
shall ever compel me to act towards any man 
in such a way that I should afterwards be 
ashamed to meet him." 

These were the views which led Col. Fre- 
mont to take the position which a military 
tribunal subsequently adjudged to be erroneous. 
But entertaining them honestly, he acted upon 
them fearlessly and with decision. The follow- 
ing is his answer to an order received from Gen- 
eral Kearney two days after his entrance, with 
his California battalion, into Los Angeles. 

" Ciudad de los Angeles, January, 1847. 

" Sir : I have the honor to be in receipt of 
your favor of last night, in which I am directed 
to suspend the execution of orders, which, in my 
capacity of military commandant of this territory, 
I had received from Commodore Stockton, gov- 
ernor and commander-in-chief in California. I 
avail myself of an early hour, this morning, to 
make such a reply as the brief time allowed for 
reflection will enable me. 

" I found Commodore Stockton in possession 
of the country, exercising the functions of mili- 
tary commandant and -civil governor, as early as 
July of last year ; and shortly thereafter I received 
from him the commission of military command- 
ant, the duties of which I immediately entered 
upon, and have continued to exercise to the 
present moment. ^ 



DIFFICULTIES BETWEEN COMMANDERS. 259 

" I founfl also, on my arrival at this place 
some three or four days since, Commodore 
Stockton still exercising the functions of civil 
and military governor, with the same apparent 
deference to his rank on the part of all officers, 
(including yourself,) as he maintained and 
required, when he assumed in July last. 

" I learned also, in conversation with you, that 
on the march from San Diego, recently, to this 
place, you entered upon and discharged duties, 
implying an acknowledgment on your part of 
supremacy to Commodore Stockton. 

" I feel, therefore, with great deference to your 
professional and personal character, constrained 
to say that, until you and Commodore Stockton 
adjust between yourselves the question of rank, 
where I respectfully think the difficulty belongs, 
I shall have to report and receive orders, as here- 
tofore, from the Commodore. 

" With considerations of high regard, 

" I am, sir, your obedient servant, 
"J. C. Fremont, 
" Lieutenant- Colonel U. S. Army, and Military 

Commandant of the Territory of California. 

" Brig. Gen. S. W. Kearney, U. S. Army." 

For this letter, and the line of conduct based 
upon it, Col. Fremont was brought to a court- 
martial. The merits of the case will not be 
discussed here. It rested upon questions of 



260 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

rank, in reference to which all officers are par 
ticularly sensitive, and led to a heated contro* 
versy between gallant men. But as Colonel 
Fremont sent a message to the dying pillow of 
the principal prosecutor, of forgiveness, Christian 
sympathy, and good-will, it would ill become 
these pages to renew the controversy. 

Finding himself in this disagreeable position, 
he endeavored to procure permission to join his 
regiment in Mexico. He was prepared with 
sixty picked men, and one hundred and twenty 
horses, to set out, and would have reached the 
theatre of the war in time to have participated 
in its crowning victories, — ^but he was refused. 
A like result followed an application to be 
allowed to collect his exploring party and return 
oyer a route not then traversed. 

Upon learning that a difficulty had arisen 
between General Kearney and Col. Fremont, 
the government at Washington endeavored to 
avert the unpleasant consequences that might 
flow from it. Mr. Marcy, Secretary of War, in a 
despatch to General Kearney, dated June 11, 
1847, alludes to the subject, and explains the 
reasons why instructions given the year before 
to naval officers had borne the appearance of 
conferring on them the control of affairs in Cali- 
fornia. They knew of no force there except the 
naval. It had not, indeed, entered their dreams 
that an exploring party could be transformed 



ARREST. 261 

into an invincible battalion, — and little did they 
imagine, when they started General Kearney 
across the continent, that Fremont and Stockton 
had already conquered California. 

Mr. Marcy informs General Kearney, that 
the Government is apprised that " Lieutenant- 
Colonel Fremont bore a conspicuous part in the 
conquest of California; and that his services 
have been very valuable in that country." 
" Should Lieutenant- Colonel Fremont," he con- 
tinues, "wAo has the option to return or remain^ 
adopt the latter alternative, the President does 
not doubt that you will employ him in such a 
manner as will render his services most available 
to the pubKc interest, having reference to his 
extensive acquaintance with the inhabitants of 
California, and his knowledge of their language, 
— qualifications, independently of others, which 
it is supposed may be very useful in the present 
and prospective state of our affairs in that 
country." 

But the advice and suggestions of the secre- 
tary availed nothing. Brigadier- General Kear- 
ney came home in the com'se of the season, and 
Col. Fremont accompanied him, being ordered 
io follow in his rear ; and, upon reaching Mis- 
souri, was put under arrest, — a purpose long 
formed, but not until then made known to him. 
The court-martial assembled at the Washington 
Arsenal, in the District of Columbia, at twelve 



262 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

o'clock, November 2, 1847. The sentence of 
the court was made up, and the body dissolved, 
on the 31st of January, 1848. There were three 
charges. The first was Mutiny. The second 
was Disobedience to the laivful co7nmand of his 
superior officer. The third was Conduct to the 
'prejudice of good order and military discipline. 

In the opening of his defence, which is an 
able and manly document, after reciting the 
charges, he thus states its general ground, and 
shows the spirit in which he made it : — 

" The two superior officers in California, with 
whom the difficulties began, (Commodore Stock- 
ton and General Kearney,) have each had the 
benefit of stating his own case before this court, 
showing under what authority they went and 
acted, what they did, and how they became 
involved with one another, and how I became 
Involved in their contest. 

"An incident and a subordinate in this con- 
test where it originated, and turned up as prin- 
cipal figure in it here for criminal prosecution, 
I am happy to find that my rights, in one 
respect, are at least equal to theirs, — that of 
stating my own case as fully as they stated 
theirs, and showing how I became principal in 
a contest which was theirs before I heard of it 
or came near them. And which, as suggested 
heretofore, ought to have been settled between 
themselves, or by the Government, whose com- 



COURT-MARTIAL. 263 

missions they both bore. A subordinate in rank, 
as in the contest, long and secretly marked out 
for prosecution by the commanding general, 
assailed in newspaper publications when three 
thousand miles distant, and standing for more 
than two months before this court to hear all 
that could be sworn against my private honor as 
well as against my official conduct, I come at 
last to the right to speak for myself. 

" In using this privilege, I have to ask of this 
court to believe that the preservation of a com- 
mission is no object of my defence. It came to 
me, as did those which preceded it, without 
asking, either by myself or by any friend in my 
behalf. I endeavored to resign it in California, 
through General Kearney, in March last, (not 
knowing of his design to arrest me,) when it 
was less injurious to me than it is at present. 
Such as it now is, it would not be worth 
one moment's defence before this court. But 
I have a name which was without a blemish 
before I received that commission ; and that 
name it is my intention to defend." 

The court pronounced him guilty on every 
specification of each charge. The president of 
the court, Bt. Brig. General Brooke, Lieut. Col. 
Hunt, Lieut. Col. Taylor, and Major Baker, 
filed the following paper, with the record : — 

" Under the circumstances in which Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Fremont was placed, between two 



264 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

officers of superior rank, each claiming to com ■ 
mand-in-chief in California, — circumstances in 
their nature calculated to embarrass the mind, 
and excite the doubts of officers of greater ex- 
perience than the accused ; and, in consideration 
of the important professional services rendered 
by him, previous to the occurrence of the acts 
for which he has been tried, the undersigned, 
members of the court, respectfully commend 
Lieutenant- Colonel Fremont to the lenient con- 
sideration of the President of the United States." 

Lieutenant- Colonel Long, Lieutenant- Colonel 
Morgan, and Major Delafield, filed the following 
paper: — 

" Under all the cii'cum stances of this case, and 
in consideration of the distinguished professional 
services of the accused, previous to the transac- 
tions for which he has now been tried, the under- 
signed beg leave to recommend him to the 
clemency of the President of the United States." 

The action of the President, on the case, was 
as follows: — 

" Upon an inspection of the record, I am not 
satisfied that the facts proved in this case con- 
stitute the military crime of 'mutiny.' I am 
of opinion that the second and third charges are 
sustained by the proof, and that the conviction 
upon these charges warrants the sentence of the 
court. The sentence of the court is therefore 
approved; but, in consideration of the peculiar 



RESIGNATION OF COMMISSION. 265 

circumstances of the case, of the previous 
meritorious and valuable services of Lieutenant- 
Colonel Fremont, and of the foregoing recom- 
mendations of a majority of the members of the 
court, the penalty of dismissal from the service 
is remitted. 

" Lieutenant- Colonel Fremont will accord- 
ingly be released from arrest, will resume his 
sword, and report for duty. James K. Polk." 

Upon receiving notice of the result of the 
trial, Colonel Fremont addressed the following 
letter to the Adjutant- General: — 

"Washington City, C Street, Feb. 19, 1848. 

*' Sir: I have this moment received the general 
order. No. 7, (dated the 17th instant,) making 
known to me the final decision in the proceed- 
ings of the general court-martial, before which I 
have been tried ; and hereby send in my resig- 
nation of lieutenant-colonel in the army of the 
United States. 

" In doing this, I take the occasion to say that 
my reason for resigning is that I do not feel 
conscious of having done anything to merit the 
finding of the court; and, this being the case, 
I cannot, by accepting the clemency of the 
President, admit the justice of the decision 
against me. 

" Very respectfully your obedient servant, 

«J. C. Fremont." 

23 



266 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

The judgment of the people of the United 
States on this trial and its result, was undoubt- 
edly what is expressed in the language used by 
General Brooke and his three associates. The 
finding of the court, under the circumstances — a 
majority of its members doing what they could 
to ward off the blow, and the President nullify- 
ing in fact, while he nominally approved, the 
sentence — was regarded as reflecting no stigma 
whatever on Colonel Fremont. But the whole 
procedure created a sympathy for him in the 
hearts of the American people, which deepened 
the admiration his romantic career had excited, 
and gave him that place in their affections which 
he holds to this day, and will continue to hold 
in all coming time. 

In his own State, where he was reared to man- 
hood, the feeling in his favor was, naturally, 
particularly deep. It was the residence of his 
widowed mother, who had watched his brilliant 
but perilous career with all the fondness, anxiety, 
and pride of the maternal heart. "When she 
heard that he was brought home under arrest, 
and was to be tried on charges that touched 
his life and honor, she sunk under the blow. 
He hastened to her, but only to discharge the 
last office of filial love and sorrow. She died 
the day before his arrival. The people of 
Charleston expressed their sense of his character 
and services in a public and emphatic manner. 



PROCEEDINGS IN CHARLESTON. 267 

" At a meeting, held at the Charleston Hotel, 
on the evening of the 16th instant, for the pur- 
pose of rendering to Lieutenant- Colonel Fre- 
mont a proper tribute of respect for his gallantry 
and good conduct in his late expeditions to 
Oregon and California, Henry W. Conner, Esq. 
was called to the chak, and George H. Cameron 
appointed Secretary. 

The Chairman, in a brief and pertinent ad- 
dress, stated that Colonel Fremont, as they all 
knew, was a native of Charleston, and the city 
might well be proud of him ; for the brilliancy 
of his achievements, the important results he 
has accomplished for his country, and the high 
qualities which he has displayed in every variety 
of circumstance in which he has been placed, 
entitle him to rank as amongst the most dis- 
tinguished men of the times. This sentiment, 
he believed, was unanimous in the community; 
and, with a view of giving some public expres- 
sion of the feeling, it was proposed, some time 
since, by a number of public-spirited gentlemen, 
some of them the early friends and associates of 
Colonel Fremont, to raise, by subscriptions from 
among our citizens, of one dollar each, a sum 
of money to be appropriated to the purchase of 
a sword, or other suitable testimonial, to be 
presented to Colonel Fremont, as an evidence 
of the high estimation in which his distinguished 
services and gallant conduct are held by his 
fellow-townsmen. 



268 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

The subscription being some time since full, 
the object of the present meeting was to carry 
the design into effect. The following resolutions 
were then introduced by John E. Carew, Esq., 
and unanimously adopted. 

Resolved^ That this community highly ap- 
preciate the eminent services rendered to his 
country by their fellow-townsman, Lieutenant- 
Colonel Fremont, in his late surveys and ex- 
ploration of Oregon and California, under cir 
cum stances of extreme peril and privation, 
requiring the exercise of the utmost fortitude 
and decision of character. 

Resolved^ That we equally appreciate the 
meritorious services rendered by Lieutenant- 
Colonel Fremont to the cause of science in 
general, by his indefatigable zeal and energy, in 
extending his researches and discoveries in those 
unknown regions. 

Resolved^ That his friends and associates, in 
common with the people of Charleston in gen- 
eral, particularly admire and approve the heroic 
conduct of Colonel Fremont, in repelling an un- 
provoked and unmanly attack made upon him 
by Governor Castro with a vastly superior force, 
and the promptitude and energy with which, 
with a mere handful of men, he not only 
defeated, but pursued his enemy, surprising and 
capturing forts strongly defended with ordnance 
and men, and eventually taking possession of 



PRESENTATION SWORD. 269 

the province, and, with the American citizens 
resident therein, declaring its independence. 

Resolved^ That in testimony of the high 
estimation in which his gallant conduct and 
brilliant achievements are held by his friends and 
fellow-townsmen, a committee be appointed to 
present to Colonel Fremont, in their behalf, a 
sword, with appropriate devices and inscriptions, 
accompanied by suitable expressions of regard 
and esteem for his person and character. 

The following Committee was appointed 
under the last resolution : — 

John E. Carew, 

Henry Gourdin, 

W. C. Gatewood, 

W. H. Trescott, 

G. S. Bryan, 

S. Y. TUPPER. 

On motion of John E. Carew, Esq., the Chair- 
man of the meeting was added as Chairman of 
the Committee. 

H. W. Conner, Chairman. 

George H. Cameron, Secretary." 

The sword presented on this occasion was a 
rich and splendid specimen of highly wrought 
and elaborately executed workmanship. It is 
gold and silver mounted. The head of the hilt, 
around which is coiled a rattlesnake, belonging 
to the old arms of the State, is formed to 

23* 



270 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

represent the summit c^ the Palmetto-tree. On 
the guard is a map, with the word " Oregon," 
partly unrolled, to display the coast of the 
Pacific Ocean. On the scabbard, which is gold, 
are two silver shields, hung together, with the 
words "California" and "1846," respectively. 
Below them is the following inscription : — 

BY THE CITIZENS OF CHARLESTON 
TO LIEUTENANT-COLONEL 

JOHN CHARLES FREMONT. 

A MEMORIAL OF THEIR HIGH APPRECIATION 

OF THE GALLANTRY AND SCIENCE 

HE HAS DISPLAYED IN HIS 

SERVICES IN OREGON AND CALIFORNIA. 

Still lower down on the scabbard is a repre- 
sentation of a buffalo hunt. 

An elegant and costly gold-mounted belt, 
having the present arms of the State on its 
clasp, presented by the Ladies of Charleston, 
accompanied the sword. 

On the 1st of February, the day after the con- 
clusion of the court-martial, the military com- 
mittee of the Senate of the United States, 
consisting of Messrs. Cass, Benton, Crittenden, 
Dix, Rusk, and Davis, commenced an investiga- 
tion, in relation to California claims on the gov- 
ernment of the United States. On the 23d of 



PUBLIC SENTIMENT. 271 

that month, the chairman, General Cass, pre- 
sented a Report, of which the Senate ordered 
20,000 extra copies to be printed. It contained 
a great amount of testimony, given under oath, 
demonstrating the invaluable services rendered 
by Col. Fremont, in the various stages of the 
conquest of California, and presenting, in an 
authentic and unquestionable form, the claims of 
his heroic battalion, and of all who served under 
him. On the 5th of June, the Senate ordered 
^^twenty thousand copies of J. C. Fremont's Map 
of Oregon and California, reduced from the 
original, according to the projection to be fur- 
nished by the said J. C. Fremont," to be litho- 
gi'aphed and printed ; and on the 15th of June, also 
ordered the printing of "Fremont's Geogi-aph- 
ical Memoir (illustrative of his map) of Upper 
California." This memoir is an able, scientific, 
and condensed document, written in his felicit- 
ous* and pictorial style, describing and illustrat- 
ing the map, and particularly presenting the 
peculiar natural features — agricultural, botanical, 
and meteorological — of the " Sierra Nevada," the 
" Great Basin," the " Maritime region west of 
the Sierra Nevada," and the " Valleys of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin." In an official 
letter to the President, dated July 17, 1848, 
James Buchanan, Secretary of State, in treating 
of the population of California, speaks of Col. 
Fremont, " as entitled to the highest considera- 



272 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

tion, from his well-known ability and superior 
means of information," in reference to that coun- 
try andihe Pacific regions generally. 

These facts sufficiently show that Col. Fre- 
mont came out unscathed from the fiery ordeal 
he had been made to pass. His spirit was not 
broken — his fame impaired — his zeal reduced — 
or his devotion to the great purpose of his life 
abated, one jot or one tittle. Released from 
official entanglement, and freed from public 
control, he soon again embarked in his chosen 
enterprise. 



CHAPTER VII. 

FOURTH EXPEDITION GREAT SUFFERINGS MARI- 
POSA PURCHASE CONSTITUTION OF CALIFORNIA. 

His Fourth Expedition was undertaken, 
mainly, at his own cost and charges. Several 
public-spirited and liberal individuals, belonging 
to St. Louis, Missouri, advanced the necessary 
means, and took the risk of repayment, which 
was duly made. Among them, Col. Robert 
Campbell and Thornton Grimsley are particu- 
larly to be mentioned. O. D. Filley presented 
outright a considerable part of the camp equi- 
page. Doctor George Engleman, also of St. 
Louis, a gentleman of great personal worth and 
scientific attainments and zeal, devoted himself, 
on this as on all other occasions, to aid Col. 
Fremont in his preparations. The Expedition 
started October 19, 1848. 

As no full report of this Expedition has yet 
been published, it can only be presented in brief. 
The following letter to Colonel Benton gives an 
account of the progress and impressions made 
up to its date. 

( 273 ) 



274 LIFE or FREMONT. 

"Camp at Bent's Fort, Nov. 17, 1848. 

" My dear Sir : We have met with very rea- 
sonable success and some good results this first 
long step upon our journey. In order to avoid 
the chance of snow-storms upon the more ex- 
posed Arkansas road, I followed up the line of 
the Southern Kansas (the true Kansas River) 
and so far added something to geography. Foi 
a distance of 400 miles our route led through a 
country affording abundant timber, game, and 
excellent grass. We find that the Valley of 
the Kansas affords by far the most eligible 
approach to the mountains. The whole valley 
soU is of very superior quality, well timbered, 
abundant grasses, and the route very direct. 
This line would aiford continuous and good set- 
tlements certainly for 400 miles, and is therefore 
worthy of consideration in any plan of approach 
to the mountains. We found our friend Major 
Fitzpatrick in the full exercise of his functions 
at a point about thirty miles below this, in what 
is called the ' Big Timber,' and surrounded by 
about 600 lodges of different nations. Apaches, 
Camanches, Kioways, and Arapahoes. He is a 
most admirable agent, entirely educated for such 
a post, and possessing the ability and courage 
necessary to make his education available. He 
has succeeded in drawing out from among the 
Camanches the whole Kioway nation with the 
exception of six lodges, and brought over among 



MAJOR FITZPATRICK. 275 

them a considerable number of lodges of the 
Apaches and Camanches. When we arrived he 
was holding a talk with them, making a feast 
and giving them a few presents. We found 
them all on their good behavior, and were treated 
in the most friendly manner; were neither an- 
noyed by them, nor had any thing stolen from us. 
I hope you will be able to give him some support. 
He will be able to save lives and money for the 
government, and knowing how difficult this In- 
dian question may become, I am particular in 
bringing Fitzpatrick's operations to your notice. 
In a few years he might have them all farming 
here on the Arkansas. 

" Both Indians and whites here report the snow 
to be deeper in the mountains than has for a 
long time been known so early in the season, 
and they predict a severe winter. This morning 
for the first time, the mountains showed them- 
selves, covered with snow, as well as the country 
around us, for it snowed steadily the greater part 
of yesterday and the night before. Still, I am 
in nowise discouraged by the prospect, and be- 
lieve that we shall succeed in forcing our way 
across. We will ascend the Del Norte to its 
head, descend on to the Colorado, and so across 
the Wahsatch mountains and the basin country 
somewhere near the 37th parallel, reaching the 
settled parts of California near Monterey. 
There is, I think, a pass in the Sierra Nevada 



276 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

between the 37th and 38th , which I wish to 
examine. The party is in good spirits and 
good health ; we have a small store of pro- 
visions for hard times, and our instruments, 
barometer included, all in good order. We 
are always up an hour or two before light, 
and the breakfasts are all over, and the camp 
preparing to move, before sunrise. This break- 
fasting before daylight, with the thermometer 
ranging from 12° to 18°, is a somewhat startling 
change from the pleasant breakfast-table in 
your stove-warmed house. I think that I shall 
never cross the continent again, except at 
Panama. I do not feel the pleasure that I 
used to have in these labors, as they remain 
inseparably connected with painful circum- 
stances, due mostly to them. It needs strong 
incitements to undergo the hardships and self- 
denial of this kind of life, and as I find I have 
these no longer, I will drop into a quiet life. 
Should we have reasonable success, we shall 
be in Cahfornia early in January, say about 
the 8th, where I shall expect to hear from all 
by the steamer. Referring you for other details 
to Jessie, to whom I have written at length, I 
remain most affectionately yours, 

" J. C. Fremont." 

The people of St. Louis took a deep interest in 
this expedition, as is evident from the part they 



SENTIMENTS OP ST. LOUIS. 277 

bore in getting it up. A spirited public meeting 
was held there, on the 21st of February, 1849, at 
which speeches were made by the Mayor and 
others, and a series of Resolutions adopted set- 
ting forth the importance of a " National Road 
to the Pacific." There was also a special Reso- 
lution passed as follows : — 

" Resolved, that the thanks of this meeting be 
tendered to Colonel J. C. Fremont, for his intrep- 
id perseverance and valuable scientific explora- 
tions in the regions of the Rocky and Californian 
Mountains, by which we have been furnished 
with a knowledge of the passes and altitudes of 
those mountains, and are now able to judge of 
the entire practicability of constructing a rail- 
road over them from St. Louis to San Francisco 
in California ; and that the officers of this meet- 
ing be requested to furnish Mrs. Fremont (Colo- 
nel Fremont being in California) with a copy of 
these proceedings.'^ 

The copy of the proceedings was communi- 
cated with the following letter : — 

St. Louis, February 22, 1849. 

Mrs. Fremont, Madam : — 

As the officers of a public meeting held in 
this city, it is made our duty to transmit to you 
a copy of the proceedings had on that occasion, 
with which we most cheerfully comply by en- 
closing herewith a printed copy thereof. 

24 



278 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Permit us, Madam, in the performance of this 
pleasing duty, to say that to no one could the 
compliment intended to be conveyed by the res- 
olution, and so justly merited, be more accept- 
able than to yourself. A native of St, Louis, 
the terminus of the magnificent work, the honored 
lady of the gallant and intrepid explorer of the 
route, and esteemed daughter of the honored 
senator, who, for more than thirty years, has 
zealously and perseveringly contended for the 
trade of the Pacific, China, and the Indies, and 
now projects a monument to his foresight and 
wisdom, in putting in motion this grand thor- 
oughfare for nations. 

We sincerely congratulate you on the auspi- 
ciousness that awaits our City of the West and 
its benefactors. 

With very great respect we are. Madam, 
Your most obedient Servants, 
John M. Krum, 
George K. McGunnegle. 

It is observed that the meeting at St. Louis 
were of opinion that Colonel Fremont had, at 
that date, (February 21,) reached California. 
They little knew what he had gone through. 
The disasters of the expedition are best shown in 
the following letter. It was written in the free- 
dom of domestic affection and private corre- 
spondence, but may be presented to the reader 



• CARSON. 279 

with propriety, and will be appreciated, with 
deep sensibility, by every feeling heart : — 

Taos, New Mexico, January 27, 1849. 

My very dear Wife, — 

I write to you from the house of our good 
friend Carson. This morning a cup of -chocolate 
was brought to me, while yet in bed. To an 
overworn, overworked, much fatigued, and starv- 
ing traveller, these little luxuries of the world 
offer an interest which in your comfortable home 
it is not possible for you to conceive. While in 
the enjoyment of this luxury, then, I pleased my- 
self in imagining how gratified you would be in 
picturing me here in Kit's care, whom you will 
fancy constantly occupied and constantly uneasy 
in endeavoring to make me comfortable. How 
little could you have dreamed of this while he was 
enjoying the pleasant hospitality of your father's 
house ! The furthest thing then from your mind 
was that he would ever repay it to me here. 

But I have now the unpleasant task of telling 
you how I came here. I had much rather write 
you some rambling letters in uni&on with the 
repose in which I feel inclined to indulge, and 
talk to you about the future with which I am 
already busily occupied ; about my arrangements 
for getting speedily down into the more pleasant 
climate of the lower Del Norte and rapidly 
through into California; and my plans when I 



280 LIFE OF FREMONT. - 

get there. 1 have an almost invincible repug- 
nance to going back among scenes where I have 
endured much suffering, and for all the incidents 
and circumstances of which I feel a strong aver- 
sion. But as clear information is absolutely- 
necessary to you, and to your father more partic- 
ularly still, I will give you the story now instead 
of waiting to tell it to you in California. But 1 
write in the great hope that you will not receive 
this letter. "When it reaches Washington you 
may be on your way to California. 

Former letters have made you acquainted 
with our journey so far as Bent's Fort, and from 
report you will have heard the circumstances of 
our departure from the Upper Pueblo of the 
Arkansas. We left that place about the 25th 
of November, with upwards of a hundred good 
mules and one hundred and thirty bushels of 
shelled corn, intended to support our animals 
across the snow of the high mountains, and 
down to the lower parts of the Grand River 
tributaries, where usually the snow forms no ob- 
stacle to winter travelling. At the Pueblo, I had 
engaged as a guide an old trapper well known 
as " Bill Williams," and who had spent some 
twenty-five years of his life in trapping various 
parts of the Rocky Mountains. The error of 
our journey was committed in engaging this 
man. He proved never to have in the least 
known, or entirely to have forgotten, the whole 



DIFFICULTIES OF THE llOUTE. 281 

region of countiy through which we were to 
pass. We occupied more than half a month in 
making the journey of a few days, blundering a 
tortuous way thi'ough deep snow which already 
began to choke up the passes, for which we were 
obliged to waste time in searching. About the 
11th December we found ourselves at the north 
of the Del Norte Caiion, where that river issues 
from the St. John's Mountain, one of the highest, 
most rugged and impracticable of all the Rocky 
Mountain ranges, inaccessible to trappers and 
hunters even in the summer time. Across the 
point of this elevated range our guide conducted 
us, and having still great confidence in his 
knowledge, we pressed onwards with fatal reso- 
lution. Even along the river bottoms the snow 
was already belly deep for the mules, frequently 
snowing in the valley and almost constantly in 
the mountains. The cold was extraordinary ; 
at the warmest hours of the day (between one 
and t^vo) the thermometer (Fahrenheit) standing 
in the shade of only a tree trunk at zero ; the 
day sunshiny, with a moderate breeze. We 
pressed up towards the summit, the snow 
deepening ; and in four or five days reached the 
naked ridges which lie above the timbered 
country, and which form the dividing grounds 
between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific 
oceans. Along these naked ridges, it storms 
nearly all winter, and the winds sweep across 
24* 



282 LIFE OF FREMONT. , 

them with remorseless fmy. On our first at- 
tempt to cross we encountered a jpoiidrerie} 
and were driven back, having some 10 or 12 
men variously frozen, face, hands, or feet. The 
guide came nigh being frozen to death here, and 
dead mules were already lying about tbe fires. 
Meantime, it snowed steadily. The next day 
we made mauls, and beating a road or trench 
through the snow crossed the crest in defiance 
of the poudrerie^ and encamped immediately 
below in the edsfe of the timber. The trail 
showed as if a defeated party had passed by ; 
pack-saddles and packs, scattered articles of 
clothing, and dead mules strewed along. A 
continuance of stormy weather paralyzed all 
movement. We were encamped sorriewhere 
about 12,000 feet above the sea. Westward, 
the country was buried in deep snow. It was 
impossible to advance and to turn back was 
equally impracticable. We were overtaken by 
sudden and inevitable ruin. It so happened that 
the only places where any grass could be had 
were the extreme summit of the ridges, where 
the sweeping winds kept the rocky ground bare 
and the snow could not lie. Below these, ani- 
mals could not get about, the snow being deep 
enough to bury them. Here, therefore, in the 
full violence of the storms we were obliged to 

1 Dry sno"w driven thick through tbe air by violent wind, 
and in "wliicli objects are visible only at a short distance. 



DISASTERS OP THE ROUTE. 283 

keep our animals. They could not be moved 
either way. It was instantly apparent that we 
should lose every animal. 

I determined to recross the mountain more 
towards the open country, and haul, or pack the 
baggage (by men) down to the Del Norte. 
With great labor the baggage was transported 
across the crest to the head springs of a little 
stream leading to the main river. A few days 
were sufficient to destroy our fine band of mules. 
They generally kept huddled together, and as 
they froze, one would be seen to tumble down 
and the snow would cover him ; sometimes they 
would break off and rush down towards the 
timber until they were stopped by the deep 
snow, where they were soon hidden by the 
poudrerie. The courage of the men failed fast ; 
in fact, I have never seen men so soon discour- 
aged by misfortune as we were on this occa- 
sion ; but, as you know, the party was not 
constituted like the former ones. But among 
those who deserve to be honorablv mentioned, 
and who behaved like what they were, — men of 
the old exploring party, — were Godey, King, 
and Taplin ; and first of ail, Godey. In this 
situation, I determined to send in a party to the 
Spanish settlements of New Mexico for provis- 
ions and mules to transport our baggage to 
Taos. With economy, and after we should 
eave the mules, we had not two weeks provis- 



284 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

ions in the camp. These consisted of a store 
which I had reserved for a hard day, macaroni 
and bacon. From among the volunteers I chose 
King, Brackenridge, Creutzfeldt, and the guide 
Williams ; the party under the command of 
King. In case of the least delay at the settle- 
ments, he was to send me an express. In the 
mean time, we were to occupy ourselves in re- 
moving the baggage and equipage down to the 
Del Norte, which we reached with our baggage 
in a few days after their departure (which was 
the day after Christmas.) Like many a Christ- 
mas for years back, mine was spent on the 
summit of a wintry mountain, my heart filled 
with gloomy and anxious thoughts, with none 
of the merry faces and pleasant luxuries that 
belong to that happy time. You may be sure 
we contrasted much this with the last at Wash- 
ington, and speculated much on your doings, 
and made many warm wishes for your happi- 
ness. Could you have looked into Agrippa's 
glass for a few moments only ! You remember 
the volumes of Blackstone which I took from 
your father's library when we were overlooking 
it at our friend Brant's ? They made my 
Christmas amusements. I read them to pass 
the heavy time and forget what was around me. 
Certainly you may suppose that my first law 
lessons will be well remembered. Day after 
day passed by and no news from our express 



GOES BACK FOR RELIEF. 285 

party. Snow continued to fall almost inces- 
santly on the mountain. The spirits of the 
camp grew lower. Proue laid down in the trail 
and froze to death. In a sunshiny day, and 
having with him means to make a fire, he threw 
his blankets down in the trail and laid there till 
he froze to death. After sixteen days had 
elapsed from King's departure, I becrane so un- 
easy at the delay, that I decided to wait no 
longer. I was aware that our troops had been 
engaged in hostilities with the Spanish Utahs 
and Apaches, who range in the North River 
valley, and became fearful that they (King's 
party) had been cut off by these Indians ; I 
could imagine no other accident. Leaving the 
camp employed with the baggage and in charge 
of Mr. Vincenthaler, I started dow~n the river 
with a small party consisting of Godey, (with his 
young nephew,) Mr. Preuss and Saunders. We 
carried our arms and provision for two or three 
days. In the camp the messes had provisions 
for two or three meals, more or less ; and about 
five pounds^ of sugar to each man. Failing to 
meet King, my intention was to make the Red 
River settlement, about twenty-five miles north 
of Taos, and send back the speediest relief pos- 
sible. My instructions to the camp were, that 
if they did not hear from me within a stated 
time, they were to follow down the Del Norte. 
" On the second day after leaving camp we 



286 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

came upon a fresh trail of Indians, — two lodges, 
with a considerable number of animals. This 
did not lessen our uneasiness for our people. 
As their trail when we met it turned and went 
down the river, we followed it. On the fifth 
day we surprised an Indian on the ice of the 
river. He proved to be a Utah, son of a Grand 
River chief we had formerly known, and behaved 
to us in a friendly manner. We encamped near 
them at night. By a present of a rifle, my two 
blankets, and other promised rewards when we 
should get in, I prevailed upon this Indian to go 
with us as a guide to the Red River settlement, 
and take with him four of his horses, principally 
to carry our little baggage. These were wretch- 
edly poor, and could get along only in a very 
slow -walk. On that day (the sixth) we left the 
lodges late, and travelled only some six or seven 
miles. About sunset we discovered a little 
smoke, in a grove of timber off* from the river, 
and thinking perhaps it might be our express 
party on its return, we went to see. This was 
the twenty-second day since they had left us, 
and the sixth since we had left the camp. 
We found them, — three of them, — Creutzfeldt, 
Brackenridge, and Williams, — the most miser- 
able objects I have ever seen. I did not recog- 
nize Creutzfeldt's features when Brackenridge 
brought him up to me and mentioned his name. 
They had been starving. King had starved to 



RELIEF SENT ON. 287 

death a few days before. His remains were 
some six or eight miles above, near the river. 
By aid of the horses, we carried these three with 
us to Red River settlement, which we reached 
(Jan. 20) on the tenth evening after leaving om* 
camp in the mountains, having travelled through 
snow and on foot one hundred and sixty miles. 
I look upon the anxiety which induced me to 
set out from the camp as an inspiration. Had 
I remained there waiting the party which had 
been sent in, every man of us would probably 
have perished. 

The morning after reaching the Red River 
town, Godey and myself rode on to the Rio 
Hondo and Taos, in search of animals and sup- 
plies, and on the second evening after that on 
which we had reached Red River, Godey had 
returned to that place with al30ut thirty animals, 
provisions, and four Mexicans, with which he 
set out for the camp on the following morning. 
On the road he received eight or ten others, 
which were turned over to him by the orders of 
Major Beale, the commanding officer of this 
northern district of New Mexico. I expect that 
Godey will reach this place with the party on 
Wednesday evening, the 31st. From Major 
Beale I received the offer of every aid in his 
power, and such actual assistance as he was 
able to render. Some horses which he had just 
recovered from the Utahs were loaned to me, 



288 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

and he supplied me from the commissary's de- 
partment with provisions which I could have 
had nowhere else. I find myself in the midst 
of friends. With Carson is living Owens, and 
Maxwell is at his father-in-law's, doing a very 
prosperous business as a merchant and contrac- 
tor for the troops. 

Evening. Mr. St. Vrain and Aubrey, who 
have just arrived from Santa Fe, called to see 
me. I had the pleasure to learn that Mr. St. 
Vrain sets out from Santa Fe on the 15th of 
February, for St. Louis, so that by him I have 
an early and certain opportunity of sending you 
my letters. ' Beale left Santa Fe on his journey 
to California on the 9th of this month. He 
probably carried on with him any letters which 
might have been at Santa Fe for me. I shall 
probably reach California with him or shortly 
after him. Say to your father that these are 
my plans for the future. 

At' the beginning of February (about Satur- 
day) I shall set out for California, taking the 
southern route, by the Rio Abcijo, the Paso del 
Norte, and the south side of the Gila, entering 
California at the Agua Caliente, thence to Los 
Angeles and immediately north. I shall break up 
<ny party here and take with me only a few men. 
The survey has been uninterrupted up to this 
point, and I shall carry it on consecutively. As 
soon as possible after reaching California I will 



NEW MEXICO. 289 

go on with the survey of the coast and coast 
country. Your father knows that this is an 
object of great desire with me, and I trust it is 
not too much to hope that he may obtain the 
countenance and aid of the President (whoever 
he may be) in carrying it on eflectually and 
rapidly to completion. For this I hope ear- 
nestly. I shall then be enabled to draw up a 
map and report on the whole country, agreeably 
to our previous anticipations. All my other 
plans remain entirely unaltered. I shall take 
immediate steps to make ourselves a good home 
in California, and to have a place ready for your 
reception, which I anticipate for April. My 
hopes and wishes are more strongly than ever 
turned that way. 

Monday^ 29. My letter now assumes a jour- 
nal form. No news yet from the party, — a great 
deal of falling weather ; rain and sleet here, and 
snow in the mountains. This is to be consid- 
ered a poor country ; mountainous, with severe 
winters and but little arable land. To the United 
States it seems to me to offer little other value 
than the right of way. It is throughout in- 
fested with Indians, with whom in the course 
of the present year the United States will be at 
war, as well as in the Oregon Territory. To 
hold this country will occasion the government 
great expense, and, certainly, one can see no 
source of profit or advantage in it. An addi- 

25 



290 LIFE OF FREMO^^T. 

tional regiment will be required for special service 
here. 

Mr. St. Vrain dined with us to-day. Owens 
goes to Missouri in April to get married, and 
thence by water to California. Carson is very 
anxious to go there with me now, and afterwards 
remove his family thither, but be cannot decide 
to break off from Maxwell and family con- 
nections. 

I am anxiously waiting to hear from my 
party, in much uncertainty as to their fate. My 
presence kept them together and quiet; my 
absence may have had a bad effect. When we 
overtook King's starving party, Brackenridge 
said that he " would rather have seen me than 
his father." 

Taos, New Mexico, Februaiy 6, 1849. 

-After a long delay, which had wearied me 
to the point of resolving to set out again myself, 
tidings have at last reached me from my ill- 
fated party. Mr. Haler came in last night, 
having, the night before, reached Red River set- 
tlement, with some three or four others. Includ- 
ing Mr. King and Proue, we have lost eleven 
of our party. Occurrences, after I left them, 
are briefly these, so far as they are within Haler's 
knowledge. I say briefly, my dear Jessie, be- 
cause now I am unwilling to force myself to 
dwell upon particulars. I wish for a time to 



GREAT SUFFERINGS. 291 

shut out these things from my mind, to leave 
this country, and all thoughts and all things 
connected with recent events, which have been 
so signally disastrous as absolutely to astonish 
me with a persistence of misfortune, which no 
precaution has been adequate on my part to 
avert. 

You will remember that I had left the camp 
with occupation sufficient to employ them for 
three or four days, after which they were to 
follow me down the river. Within that time I 
had expected the relief from King, if it was to 
come at all. 

They remained where I had left them seven 
days, and then started down the river. Manuel 
— you will remember Manuel, the Cosumne In- 
dian — gave way to a feeling of despair after they 
had travelled about two miles, begged Haler to 
shoot him, and then turned and made his way 
back to the camp ; intending to die there, as he 
doubtless soon did. They followed our trail 
down the river, — twenty-two men they were in 
all. About ten miles below the camp. Wise 
gave out, threw away his gun and blanket, and 
a few hundred yards further fell over into the 
snow and died. Two Indian boys, young men, 
countrymen of Manuel, were behind. They 
rolled up Wise in his blanket and buried himp 
in the snow on the river bank. No more died 
that day, — none the next. Carver raved during 



292 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

the night, his imagination wholly occupied with 
images of many things which he fancied himself 
eating. In the morning, he wandered off from 
the party, and probably soon died. They did 
not see him again. Sorel on this day gave 
out and laid down to die. They built him a 
fire, and Morin, who was in a dying condition, 
and snow-blind, remained. These two did not 
probably last till the next morning. That even- 
ing, I think, Hubbard killed a deer. They 
travelled on, getting here and there a grouse, 
but probably nothing else, the snow having 
frightened off the game. Things were des- 
perate, and brought Haler to the determination 
of breaking up the party, in order to prevent 
them from living upon each other. He told 
them " that he had done all he could for them, 
that they had no other hope remaining than the 
expected relief, and that their best plan was to 
scatter and make the best of their way in small 
parties down the river. That, for his part, if he 
was to be eaten, he would, at all events, be 
found travelling when he did die." They ac- 
cordingly separated. With Mr. Haler continued 
five others and the two Indian boys. Rohrer now 
became very despondent ; Haler encouraged him 
by recalling to mind his family, and urged him 
to hold out a little longer. On this day he fell 
behind, but promised to overtake them at even- 
ing. Haler,*Scott, Hubbard, and Martin agreed 



GREAT BUFFERINGS. 298 

that if any one of them should give out, the 
others were not to wait for him to die, but build 
a fire for him and push on. At night Kern's 
mess encamped a few hundred yards from 
Haler's, with the intention, according to Taplin, 
to remain where they were until the relief 
should come, and in the mean time to live upon 
those who had died, and upon the weaker ones 
as they should die. With the three Kerns were 
Cathcart, Andrews, McKie, Stepperfeldt, and 
Taplin. 

Ferguson and Beadle had remained together 
behind. In the evening Rohrer came up and 
remained with Kern's mess. Mr. Haler learnt 
afterwards from that mess that E-ohrer and 
Andrews wandered off the next day and died. 
They say they saw their bodies. In the morning 
Haler's party continued on. After a few hours 
Hubbard gave out. They built him a fire, 
gathered him some wood, and left him, without, 
as Haler says, turning their heads to look at 
him, as they went off. About two miles further, 
Scott — you remember Scott, who used to shoot 
birds for you at the frontier — gave out. They 
did the same for him as for Hubbard, and con- 
tinued on. In the afternoon the Indian boys 
went ahead, and before nightfall met Godey 
with the relief. Haler heard and knew the guns 
which he fired for him at night, and, starting 
early in the morning, soon met him. I hear 

25* 



294 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

that they all cried together like children. Haler 
turned back with Godey, and went with him to 
where they had left Scott. He was still alive 
and was saved. Hubbard was dead, — still warm 
From the Kern's mess they learned the death 
of Andrews i^nd Rohrer, and a little above met 
Ferguson, who told them that Beadle had died 
the night before. 

Godey continued on with a few new Mex- 
icans and pack mules to bring down the bag- 
gage from the camp. Haler, with Martin and 
Bacon, on foot, and bringing Scott on horse- 
back, have first arrived at the Red River settle- 
ment. Provisions, and horses for them to ride, 
were left with the others, who preferred to rest 
on the river until Godey came back. At the 
latest, they should all have reached Red River 
settlement last night, and ought all to be here 
this evening. When Godey arrives I shall 
know from him all the circumstances sufficiently 
in detail to enable me to understand clearly 
every thing. But it will not be necessary to tell 
you any thing further. It has been sufficient 
pain for you to read what I have already 
written. 

As I told you, I shall break up my party here. 
I have engaged a Spaniard to furnish mules to 
take my little party with our baggage, as 
far down the Del Nort^ as Albuquerque. To- 
morrow a friend sets out to purchase me a few 



GREAT SUFFERINGS. 295 

mules, with which he is to meet me at Albu- 
querque, and thence I continue the journey on 
my own animals. My road will take me down 
the Del Norte, about 160 miles below Albu- 
querque, and then passes between this river 
and the heads of the Gila, to a little Mexican 
town called I think Tusson. Thence to the 
mouth of the Gila, and across the Colorado, 
direct to Agua Caliente, into California. I 
intend to make the journey rapidly, and about 
the middle of March ; hope for the great plea- 
sure of hearing from home. I look for a large 
supply of newspapers and documents, more 
perhaps because these things have a home look 
about them than on their own account. When 
I think of you all, I feel a warm glow at my 
heart, which renovates it like a good medicine, 
and I forget painful feelings in strong hope for 
the future. We shall yet, dearest wife, enjoy 
quiet and happiness together — these are nearly 
one and the same to me now. I make fre- 
quently pleasant pictures of the happy home we 
are to have, and oftenest and among the plea- 
santest of all I see, our library with its bright 
fire in the rainy stormy days, and the large 
windows looking out upon the sea in tiie bright 
weather. I have it all pfanned in my own 
mind. It is getting late now. La Harpe says 
that there are two gods which are very dear 
to us, Hope and Sleep. My homage shall 



296 LIFE 0¥ FKEMONT. 



««. 



be equally divided between them ; both make 
the time pass lightly until I see you, and so I 
go now to pay a willing tribute to the one, with 
my heart full of the other. Good-night. 

Socorro, Rio del Norte, February 24, 1849. 

My dear Sir : I write a line from this 
place in the hope that by way of Chihuahua 
and Vera Cruz, it will reach you sooner than 
letters by the direct mail from Santa Fe, and so 
be in advance of exaggerated reports of the 
events which have delayed my journey, and 
turned me in this direction. Letters which I 
have forwarded by Mr. St. Vrain, will inform 
you that we were overtaken, and surrounded 
by deep and impracticable snows in the Rocky 
Mountains at the head of the Del Norte. We lost 
all our animals and ten men, the mules frozen, 
and the men starved to death, Proue only 
excepted. He was frozen. The miscarriage of 
an express party, sent in under Mr. King, was a 
secondary cause of our greatest calamity in the 
loss of our men. In six days after leaving my 
camp in the mountains, I overtook his party, 
they having been out twenty-two days, and 
King having been starved to death. In four 
days afterwards I reached the settlements, in 
time to save many, but too- late to rescue 
all the men. Relief was immediately sent 
back, but did not meet them in time to save 



KII^DNESS OF OiTICEllS. 297 

all. An attempt, made with fresh animals, to 
get oar baggage out of the snow, failed entirely, 
resulting only in the loss of ten or twelve animals 
more. On the main river bottoms at the foot of 
the mountains, the snow was five feet deep and 
in the mountains impassable. Camp furniture 
of all descriptions, saddles, pack-saddles, &c., 
clothes, money, &c., all lost. I had the good 
fortune to recover one of my baggage trunks, 
which Jessie will remember to have packed for 
me, and so saved some clothes, &c. My instru- 
ments, which I always carry with me, were in 
greater part saved. 

The officers of the army stationed in the 
country have been uniformly prompt and liberal 
in their attentions to me, offering me all the 
assistance in their power. In this country, 
where supplies are scarce and extravagantly 
high, this assistance was of great value to me 
in prosecuting my journey. Among those 
whom I ought particularly to mention is Major 
Beale, who is in command of the Northern Dis- 
trict, Capt. Judd, Lt. Thomas, Dr. Webb, and 
Capt. Buford. I mention their names partic- 
ularly, knowing that you will take pleasure in 
reciprocating it to them. Colonel Washington 
desired me to call on him without reserve for 
any thing at his command. He invited me to 
dine with him, one out of the two days I spent 
at Santa Fe, and dined with me at the officers' 



298 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

quarters on the other. Major Weightman (of 
"Washington, son-in-law of ]VIi\ Cox,) was very 
friendly in his attentions to me, and Capt. Brent 
of the Quartermaster's deputy, gave me some 
most effective aid in my equipment. Among 
the citizens who have treated me with some 
attention, I make it a duty to recommend to 
your attention, when you may meet him, oui 
fellow-citizen of St. Louis, Mr. F. X. Aubry. 
You will remember him as having lately made 
an extraordinary ride from Santa Fe to Indepen- 
dence. We have been travelling together from 
Santa Fe to this place. Among other acts of 
kindness, I received from him a loan of $1000, 
to purchase animals for my journey to Cali- 
fornia. 

I reached this town at half-past 8 o'clock this 
morning, by appointment to breakfast. Capt. 
Buford, who commands here, received me with 
much kindness, and I am staying with him. 
This is a military post, and with the exception 
of a little village or two, a few miles below, the 
last settlement we see until reaching Tusson, 
even should we pass by that route. We go on 
this afternoon, and perhaps reach California in 
twenty-five days. The weather here is warm, 
and the people engaged in opening the ground 
for sowing. I will write a brief note to Jessie, 
and conclude this, as I shall be much pressed 



MARIPOSA PUECHASE. 299 

to get through the business set apart for this 
day. " Very affectionately, 

"J. C. Fremont. 

" Hon. Thomas H. Benton, Washington 

City." 

The allusions, in the foregoing letters, to a 
plan of life he had formed for the future, in- 
dicate that he had designed to spend the residue 
of his days in retirement, and in California. 
Before this time he had entrusted $3,000, to an 
agent to buy a farm or ranch for him in that 
country, suggesting a certain tract which he was 
particularly desirous of obtaining. As that was 
not available, the agent purchased another, since 
known as the Mariposa (butterfly) grant. It 
was thought by most persons, at that time, to 
have been an undesirable purchase, 'as it was 
in the wilderness, far removed from settlements, 
and infested by Chauchiles Indians, a very 
savage, warlike, and hostile tribe. The first 
night Col. Fremont spent on the tract, when he 
first visited it, six men, belonging to a party 
that had camped in the neighborhood, were 
Idlled by the Indians, and he never went there 
without having a fight with them. For these 
reasons it was not a very eligible location for a 
farm, although eomprising considerable land in 
itself well adapted for agricultural purposes. 
His plan was to use it as a grazing farm ; and 



800 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

the favorite wish and design of his heart was to 
collect upon it the faithful and brave com- 
panions of his explorations, the men whose 
friendship and worth had been proved in so 
many joint perils and sufferings, and there 
dwell in their midst, surrounded by a colony 
that would be as one family. With them 
around him, there would have been nothing 
to fear from Chauchiles or any other Indians. 
In the prosecution of this cherished purpose 
he had purchased, and sent round the cape, a 
large supply of farming tools and agricultural 
implements of every kind. But the beautiful 
vision was dispersed by the discovery of gold, 
which threw farming projects out of the ques- 
tion altogether. 

On the 25th of June, 1849, President Taylor 
appointed him commissioner for running the 
boundary line between the United States and 
the Republic of Mexico. He never entered on 
the duties of that appointment. In the mean 
while, under the auspices, and with the encour- 
agement of that truly patriotic and enlightened 
chief magistrate, the people of California took 
the usual steps to form a constitution. Col.. 
Fremont exerted his whole influence to secure 
that portion of the continent to free labor. 
The great point was gained; And he was 
elected one of the first senators of the State of 
California in the congress of the United States. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A SENATOR OF THE UNITED STATES. 

The State of California was admitted into 
the Union on the 9th of September, 1850. The 
next day, her senators elect, John C. Fremont 
and William M. Gwin, after a last desperate 
effort to prevent it, were allowed to take their 
seats, the former being introduced to the senate 
by Mr. Barnwell of South Carolina. Fremont's 
name had been made familiar to the ears of 
senators, particularly at that session, by the 
extent to which California occupied their dis- 
cussions. In reference to that country, as both 
conqueror and explorer, he was the authority on 
which they all relied. In a speech on the com- 
promise bills, delivered in the Senate on the 25th 
of June, 1850, Mr. Soule, arguing a certain 
point relating to California, uses these words : 
" This opinion is fuUy sustained by the highest 
authority which I can summon before the 
Senate — that of the learned, enterprising, and 
indefatigable officer, to whose labors the United 
States and the world are so much indebted." 

2G ( 301 ) 



302 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Such was then the universal estimate through- 
out the country of the value of the public 
services of Col. Fremont. 

As is the practice of the Senate, in the case of 
members entering the body as the first repre- 
sentatives of new States, Fremont and Gwin 
drew lots for the classes to which they were to 
belong. The term of one third of the senators 
expires on each alternate 4th March. Col. Fre- 
mont drew the shortest term, expiring with the 
31st congress on the 4th of March, 1851. Mr. 
Gwin drew the longest term, continuing to the 
close of the 33d congress on the 4th of March, 
1855. As Fremont was unable to attend the 
short term of that congress, his whole senatorial 
service consisted of what remained of the long 
session, which terminated September 30th — that 
is,, twenty-one days. 

In that short time he accomplished an extraor- 
dinary amount of work. Immediately, upon 
taking his seat, indeed, on that very day, he 
submitted a resolution describing seventeen post 
routes, covering the whole territory of California, 
and gave notice of a variety of biUs, which pro- 
vided for the extension over that State of all the 
functions of the Government, in its several de- 
partments. These bills were designed to com- 
plete the organization of the whole system of 
society. They legalized all its interests, pur- 
suits, privileges, and securities, and brought them 



cALrE'OR^^A billwS. 303 

within the sphere and under the protection of 
judicial tribunals. The titles of these bills, 
which were, in brief, as follows, show the ground 
they cover : — 

1. A bill to provide for the recording of land 
titles in California. 

2. A bill to provide for the survey of the 
public lands of California. 

3. A bill to provide for the erection of land- 
offices in California. 

4. A bill to provide for the settlement of 
private land claims in California. 

5. A bill to grant donations of land to settlers 
before the cession of the country to the United 
States, and preemption rights to all subsequent 
settlers. 

6. A bill to regulate the working of mines in 
California. 

7. A bill to extend the laws and judicial 
system of the United States to the State of 
California. 

8. A bill to refund to said State duties col- 
lected at San Francisco and other ports, before 
the custom»house laws were extended to it. 

9. A bill to grant said State public lands for 
purposes of education. 

10. A bill to grant six townships for a uni- 
versity. 

11. A bUl to grant land to aid in constructing 
public buildings. 



304 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

12. A bill to grant land for asylums for the 
deaf and dumb, for the blmd and insane. 

13. A bill to relinquish to the city of San 
Francisco certain public gi:ounds no longer 
needed for public purposes. 

14. A bill to grant to the State of California 
twelve salt springs, with a section of ground 
around each. 

15. A bill to grant to the city of Monterey 
the old government house and its grounds. 

16. A bill to provide for opening a road across 
the continent. 

17. A bill to grant land for internal improve- 
ment. 

18. A bill to preserve peace among the Indian 
tribes, by providing for the extinction of their 
titles to the gold districts. 

Col. Fremont confined himself, while in the 
Senate, mainly to the discussion of matters 
relating to California, and in the crowded hurry 
and complication of business during the last 
weeks of a summer session, abstained from long 
speeches. In only one or two instances can his 
remarks, as they are reported in the Congres- 
sional Globe, be considered as approaching that 
character. He was relied upon to explain and 
illustrate the circumstances and wants of his 
own State, and he was ever prompt to do it ; 
but in all cases, in the briefest possible terms. 
His style of debate was compact, clear, easy, 



ROAD FROM THE PACIFIC. 305 

and natural. He was thoroughly equipped with 
the requisite information, and presented his 
views sensibly and forcibly. There is a busi- 
ness aspect about his remarks that distinguishes 
him as a practical statesman. His three weeks' 
parliamentary service is very interesting, as an 
example well worthy of imitation. 

What the country needs in the halls of con- 
gress is enlightened and practical men, able to 
speak, but only speaking to the matter in hand. 
Col. Fremont's course in the Senate presents 
a fine model of such a parliamentary manner, 
and is in keeping with the modest but efficient 
character he has exhibited in his whole public 
service. 

It produced a striking effect at the time in the 
respectful confidence with which his suggestions 
were received, and in the success, which, so far 
as the Senate was concerned, generally crowned 
his efforts. 

Keeping his eye on the main purpose to which 
he has devoted his life, — that of cementing and 
consolidating the union and intercourse of the 
Atlantic and Pacific regions, — on the 12th of 
September he introduced his bill to provide for 
the opening of a road across the Sierra Nevada, 
on the line of the Rio de los Americanos and 
Carson's River, and the pass at their head, as 
the commencement of opening a common travel- 
ling road between the present western settle- 

26 * 



806 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

ments of the United States, the Territory of 
Utah, and the State of California. 

It is worthy of remark that the railroad, now 
in process of extension from San Francisco 
towards the mountains, and which is designed 
to be continued, at last, across the continent, 
follows the line marked out in Fremont's bill. 
The result of all subsequent experience and 
consideration has sanctioned his judgment, thus 
early formed, that the first thing to be done, — 
and it ought to be done without further delay,— 
is to establish a common travelling road from 
California to the head of steamboat navigation 
on the Atlantic side. It would gradually lead 
out population along its line. A series of mili- 
tary posts, and of stopping-places for the relay 
of horses and change of coaches, would be the 
points around which settlements would be made 
and villages rise. Such a post-route would serve 
important purposes in enabling the government 
to control its Indian affairs. It would lead to 
an ultimate determination of the best course for 
a Pacific railroad; and, in the mean time, would 
soon command a business in the transportation 
of passengers and specie that would well sus- 
tain it. The fevers and other perils of the isth- 
mus, the inconveniences of the voyages, through 
the Gulf of Mexico, and on the Pacific side, in 
crowded steamboats, liable to shipwreck and 
various accidents, would be avoided. The 



GOLD MINES. 307 

knotty and threatening diplomatic difficulties 
connected with Central America, would lose 
much of their importance. The countless thou- 
sands of American travellers to and from the 
Pacifi'c regions would, along their whole route, 
be in the bosom and under the protection of 
their own country. When the Government is 
compelled, by public opinion, to secure this gi*eat 
convenience to the people, to Fremont will the 
honor be due, and the thanks given, for having, 
at the very first, proposed and labored to accom- 
plish it. 

On the 14th of September he introduced his 
bill, making temporary provision " for the work- 
ing and discovery of gold mines and placers in 
California, and for preserving order in the gold- 
mine district ; " remarking, at the same time, that 
the bill was drawn up with a great deal of care 
and deliberation ; that he had looked over the 
Spanish laws, extending through the space of 
three hundred years ; that he had endeavored to 
embody in the bill the essence of all that he 
considered applicable, and had adapted the pro- 
visions, as much as possible, to our institutions. 
In the course of the same day he explained and 
advocated the bill in extended remarks, citing 
the legislation, and illustrating, by historical 
records, the policy of Spain towa^rds Indians in 
her American colonies, from 1533 to the period 
of their independence. 



308 LITE OF FREMONT. 

On the 20th September, he advocated the 
establishment of liberal judicial salaries in Cali- 
fornia, combating the opinion of those senators 
who had expressed their belief that the high 
prices ruling there were temporary, and would 
soon come down to the level of the Atlantic 
States. He predicted that the gold would be 
found inexhaustible, and gave his reasons at 
length for this conviction, in a detail of calcula- 
tions which have been remarkably confirmed by 
subsequent experience. 

Among the bills introduced into the Senate 
by Col. Fremont, was one, it will be perceived, 
to ascertain and settle private land claims in the 
State of California. When that bill came up, he 
presented its merits in these few words : " The 
bill conforms to the decisions of the supreme 
comi: and to the usual form, with but two excep- 
tions. The first is the provision which makes 
a decision in favor of the claimant by the com- 
missioners, in the first place, final against the 
United States. The other provision makes a 
decision in the district court, in favor of the 
claimant, also final against the United States. 
These provisions were introduced for two rea- 
sons ; first, to quiet the country, and to contribute 
to its general prosperity ; but a further reason 
is, that a decision of their own law officers, their 
own judges, the arbitrators of the United States, 
ought to be final against the United States. 



CALIFORNIA LAND TITLES. 809 

The people ought not to be kept waiting upon 
the law, for years perhaps, for an adjudication. 
I sl^tte these reasons, and leave the bill to the 
Senate, to stand upon its own merits." 

The bill failed, in the hurry of the closing 
session, to become a law. The experience of 
California has amply justified the views which 
Colonel Fremont so compactly and clearly ex- 
pressed. A country acquired by conquest, with 
land titles resting upon principles and practices 
of foreign law, whose people were unacquainted 
with our usages, and many of them mth our 
language, situated on the opposite side of the 
globe, ought to have had justice and right 
carried to them at once. Provision ought to 
have been made to settle, adjust, and determine 
all questions of claim and title without unneces- 
sary delajT-. Humble and feeble private parties 
ought not to have been exposed to a protracted 
and exhausting contest with a powerful govern- 
ment before its remote ultimate tribunals. Fre- 
mont's few words condense the decisions of 
common sense. 

It seems that some political opponent, in the 
recldessness of party prejudice, and to prevent 
his reelection to the Senate, threw out an inti- 
mation that Col. Fremont had introduced this 
bill, with a view to his own personal interest as 
the purchaser of the Mariposa tract. At the 
next session of the Senate, Col. Fremont not 



310 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

being able to attend, had the bill altered so as 
to except his title from its operation, as appears 
by the following extract from a speech of Col. 
Benton, delivered Jan. 3, 1851. After saying 
that, in framing his bill, " Col. Fremont felt that 
it would look ostentatious and uncalled for, to 
volunteer an exception against himself," Col. 
Benton proceeded as follows : " But, now, and 
after what has happened, he no longer feels any 
hesitation on that account; and, in conformity 
to his feehngs, I now make an exception which 
will take his case out of the general provisions 
of the bill, and subject it to run the gauntlet of 
all the courts from the lowest to the highest, and 
from the shores of the Pacific Ocean to the shores 
of the Atlantic, and against all the counsel 
which the substitute bill authorizes to be em- 
ployed. He is willing to run the gauntlet of all 
this, according to his letter in relation to the 
Mariposa estate, which was read yesterday ; but 
he is not willing that other claimants should be 
so subjected, or that his exertions in their behalf 
should be weakened by t^e supposition of an 
interested motive." 

In answer to an inquuy on the subject of his 
Indian bill, Mr. Fremont said : — 

" The general policy of Spain, in her Indian 
relations, was the same as that which was after- 
wards adopted by all Europe, and recognized by 
the United States. The Indian right of occupa- 



INDIAN BILL. 311 

tion was respected, but the ultimate dominion 
remained in the Crown. Wherever the policy, 
of Spain differed from that of the other Euro- 
pean nations, it was always in favor of the In- 
dians. Grants of lands were always made sub- 
ject to their rights of occupancy, reserving to 
them the right to resume it even in cases where 
it had been abandoned at the time of the grant. 
But the Indian right to the lands in property, 
under the Spanish laws, consisted, not merely in 
possession, but extended even to that of alien- 
ation ; a right recognized and affirmed in the 
decisions of the Supreme Court of the United 
States. A claim to lands in East Florida, 
under a title derived from grants by the Creek 
and Seminole Indians, and ratified by the local 
authorities of Spain before the cession of 
Florida to the United States was confirmed. 

" I have here in my hand a volume of Spanish 
laws published in the city of Mexico in 1849, 
and purporting to contain all the legislation on 
this subject which was in force in Mexico up to 
that date. Thes*^ laws extend from 1533, some 
twelve years after the conquest of Mexico by 
Cortez, to 1817. The policy of Spain in regard 
to the Indians, differed somewhat from that of 
the United States, and particularly in this : that, 
instead of removing the Indians from amidst the 
Spanish population, it kept them there, and pro- 
tected them' in the possession of their lands 



812 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

among their civilized neighbors, having always 
in view the leading object of converting them to 
the Christian religion. To this end the power 
of the government was always directed ; it was 
a national object, and, in great part, was a 
governing principle in the laws of which they 
were the subject. I will not occupy the time of 
the Senate by reading at length the several laws, 
but will merely make a few statements of such 
particular parts as bear directly upon the rights 
in question. 

" A royal order of Charles V., a supreme law in 
Spain, of the year 1533, decreed that the woods, 
pasture lands, and water contained in any grants 
of signiories, which had been or should be made 
in. the Indies, should be common to Spaniards 
and Indians. Another royal order of 1687 (con- 
firming and extending an ordinance of the vice- 
roy, Count Saint Stephen, of the year 1567,) 
commanded that in all the villages of Indians 
throughout all New Spain, who needed land to 
live upon and sow, there should be given to them 
a space of 500 yards, and as much more as they 
had any need of for cultivation around their 
village, measuring from the furthest outside 
house, and if the village happened to be a large 
one, an unlimited quantity should be allowed, 
and that thereafter no grant of pasture ground 
or lands should be given to any one within 



INDIAN BILL. 313 

eleven hundred yards of the most outside house 
of the population. 

" A law of Philip III. of 1618, ordained that no 
pasture grounds of black cattle should be situated 
within a league and a half of any village con- 
verted in old times to the Christian religion, and 
not within three leagues of any village of newly 
converted Indians, upon pain of forfeiting the 
pasture ground and half the cattle which there 
should be upon it; and the Indians had the right 
to kill any cattle which should be so found tres- 
passing upon their lands, and were subject to no 
penalty whatsoever from them. 

*' A decree of Philip II. of 1571, commanded 
that the Indians should have the right to alienate 
their landed property as well as their personal 
effects, prescribing only that proclamation should 
be made during a specified time, and at a place 
of public sale. 

. " In California we-have both classes of Indians 
— the Christian or converted Indians, collected 
together at the missions and in large villages of 
the sea coast and the interior, and the wild In- 
dians of the mountains, who never were reduced 
to subjection. 

" In California we are at this moment invading 
these rights. We hold there by the strong hand 
alone. The Indians dispute our right to be 
there, and they extend the privilege which the 

27 



314 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

law secured them of killing the cattle to that of 
killing the owner whenever they find an occasion. 
Our occupation is in conflict with theirs, and it 
is to render this occupation legal and equitable, 
and to preserve the peace, that I have introduced 
this bill. It recommends itself to the favorable 
consideration of the Senate by its obvious 
necessity, and because it is right in itself, be- 
cause it is politic, and because it is conformable 
to the established custom of this Govern- 
ment." 

The great service Col. Fremont rendered to 
his constituents and the country, while in the 
Senate of the United States, was in securing to 
the miner the entire product of his labor, and 
preventing a tax being levied upon the precious 
metals. When his bill to this effect came up for 
discussion on the 24th of September, a strenu- 
ous effort was made to amend it by substituting 
a provision that all gold extracted from the mines 
or placers of California, should be and remain 
the property of the United States, and delivered 
over accordingly, the miner to receive it back at 
a certain rate, which would leave a percentage 
in the hands of Government. The Senate, 
convinced by the statements of the California 
Senator, rejected this amendment. As further 
amendments continued to be urged, which would 
have essentially changed the policy of his bill, 
Col. Fremont at la-st felt constrained, on the 



GOLD NOT TO BE TAXED. 315 

25th of September, to enter, at greater length 
than was his custom, upon the defence of 
his views. He introduced his remarks as fol- 
lows : — 

" The very advanced period of the session 
when we obtained our seats, and were able to 
bring forward the California business, induced 
me to take a course in relation to our bills which 
I thought most agreeable to the Senate and best 
suited to secure for them a favorable considera- 
tion. This was not to use the indulgence of the 
Senate for making speeches, but to confine my- 
self to a brief exposition of the nature and prin- 
ciples of a bill when it should be called up, and 
then to answer, as well as I could, the inquiries 
and objections of senators either to principles or 
details. But I find such a course difficult on 
this bill, which introduces a new subject, and one 
which, from its novelty and importance, excites, 
and ought to excite, much interest, and requires 
close examination. The principles of this bill, 
as I have already stated them, are, to exclude all 
idea of maldng a national revenue out of these 
mines, to prievent the possibility of monopolies 
by moneyed capitalists, and to give to natural 
CAPITAL, that is to say, to labor and industry, 
a fair chance to work, and the secure enjoyment 
of what they find. To carry out these principles 
to their just results, all the details of the bill are 
carefully du'ected." 



S16 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

After some remarks pointing out the evils 
that would flow from the adoption of a different 
system, urged by some senators, he proceeded 
to explain that provided for in his bill, as fol- 
lows : — 

* The quantity allowed to each person is am- 
ple, considering the privilege he has of changing 
his location as often as he pleases, and selling 
his lot when he is offered a good price. Thirty 
feet square is to be the size of a lot, to be 
worked by manual labor, in a placer ; two hun- 
dred and ten feet, or about one acre, is to be the 
size of a lot in a mine, to be worked by ma- 
chinery, in the rock. 

"A placer lot, accordingly, contains nine hun- 
dred superficial feet, with a depth to the centre 
of the earth. A cube of these dimensions 
would be twenty-seven thousand solid feet ; and 
if a place of tolerable richness is found, an 
industrious man may say his fortune is made. 
Sooner or later every industrious man may 
expect to find a good lot ; and whether he sells 
it or works it, his reward will be ample. 

" If he sells, he may take another permit, and 
work on until he makes another good discovery, 
and either sells this or exhausts it ; and so on, 
until he is satisfied, or the mining exhausted. 
Wherever he may plant his stake, exclusive pos- 
session is guaranteed to the miner, so long as be 
works his mining lot, or to his assignee, if sold, 



GOLD NOT TO BE TAXED. 317 

or to his legal representatives, in the event of his 
death. All that he finds is to be his own — there 
is no tax to be paid ; no per centum — no fifth, 
or tenth, or twentieth to the government; no 
officer to stand over the miner and require him 
to give an account of all he finds, and surrender 
up a part to the Federal government, — all is his 
own that he has the industry to collect ; and for 
these multiplied advantages, with the protection 
of law and the security of order, the citizen 
pays only one dollar a month for as many 
months as he may choose, not exceeding twelve, 
with a preemptive right to continue his own lot. 
This nominal sum of one dollar a month is all 
that the bill proposes for him to pay ; and while 
it will be sufficient to indemnify the govern- 
ment for all expenses, and to yield a respectable 
sum besides, it will be no burden on the miner ; 
he will not feel it, but will pay it cheerfuUy in 
return for the advantages which the permit 
secures him. 

" I am glad to find that the Senate evinces 
no disposition to create revenue by heavy taxes 
on the gold mines of our State, and that the lib- 
eral principles of this bill, from the votes already 
taken, are likely to prevail in this Chamber. 

" I think that this Government should look for 
increase of revenues to the expanded commerce 
which the discovery of these gold mines has 
created in the Pacific Ocean. 

27* 



31.8 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

" Oppressive taxes on the precious metals are 
well suited to a government lilie that of Spain, 
which derived one of its chief supports from its 
mines in New Spain ; which used the labor of 
the people only to create revenue ; which de- 
manded from them the first fruits of the earth, 
and taxed every thing which it did not monopo- 
lize, and every thing in the same proportion — 
agricultural products as well as mines — a tenth 
of the whole, and all to support the extravagant 
expenditures of its arbitrary monarchs. In con- 
sequence of these oppressive exactions, ninety- 
nine were ruined out of a hundred who engaged 
in gold-mining operations in her dependencies. 
But we have adopted a wiser course. Reason 
and experience teach us the folly as well as the 
injustice of attempting such exactions from the 
people. We have seen their failure on a small 
scale in our own lead-mine leasing, and we have 
before us the result of their operation under the 
elaborate system and arbitrary power of Spain, 
which, with all their extravagant taxes, yielded, 
in those years of which I have any account, 
and at a flourishing period of the mines, a 
revenue of only about $60,000 per annum from 
the gold mines of New Spain. Mexico found 
out the folly of this course, and, immediately 
after her independence in 1831, abolished these 
multiplied taxes, and substituted for them all a 
simple duty of tln:ee per cent. Heavy taxes had 



GOLD NOT TO BE TAXED. 319 

almost destroyed this branch of her revenues, 
and liberal provisions were made to resuscitate 
it. The quicksilver mines were given to all who 
would work them, free of all tax and all kind of 
duty. Rewards of $25,000 each were decreed 
to the first four operators who should extract a 
certain quantity of the metal — the miners were 
'exempted from all personal contributions and 
all military service — and all to restore what 
taxation had ruined. We cannot, certainly, go 
back from what Mexico has done, and take up 
the abandoned system of old Spain ; and I trust 
that, while we repudiate taxation, we shall also 
avoid anarchy and disorder, and give to the 
country some such brief and simple code of 
regulations, as will secure to every man the 
peaceable exercise of his industry, and the pos- 
session and enjoyment of what he gains." 

It seems to be quite obvious, that great evils 
would have resulted from exacting a percentage 
from the miners upon the gold obtained by 
them. It would have led to hiding or otherwise 
concealing the gold, to false representations of 
the amount, and to endless controversies and 
altercations between miners and official agents. 
The fatal poison of such a system is in the 
alienation which contrary interests would in- 
evitably have engendered between the people 
and the Government. This will sap any polit- 
ical organization at its foundation. Nothing 



320 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

can save a state from decay and ruin, where 
the people and the government are led to regard 
each other as enemies. This would have been 
the effect had government officers watched the 
labor of the miner, and snatched away the 
product of his toil, in the form of a direct tax ; 
and the gold of California would have done no 
more for the benefit of the people, the govern- 
ment, or the world, than the precious metals in 
Mexico and Peru did under the rule of Spain. 

The public records show that it is mainly by 
the exertions of Fremont that the Senate of the 
United States was persuaded to avoid the policy 
of taxing the gold of California. It is free to 
all who toil for it. There is no inducement and 
no room left for fraud or concealment. Industry 
possesses and enjoys its full reward. Labor is 
protected from exaction, clothed with its proper 
dignity, and crowned with prosperity. The 
people feel the government only in its munifi- 
cence and guardian care. Every motive that 
can prompt to enterprise, and every spring that 
can develop energy is brought to bear ; and we 
may repose in a just confidence that the min- 
eral treasures of the Pacific coast will contrib- 
ute, with a mighty power, to fulfil the great 
design of all Fremont's labors, — in transferring 
to channels, to be opened across our continent, 
the commerce of the world. 



CHAPTER IX. 

ENGAGES IN THE CATTLE BUSINESS IN CALIFORNIA 

GOLD DISCOVERY VISIT TO ENGLAND AND 

FRANCE IMPRISONMENT IN LONDON FIFTH 

EXPEDITION PACIFIC RAILROAD MARIPOSA TI- 
TLE FINALLY CONFIRMED BY THE SUPREME 
COURT OF THE UNITED STATES. 

In returning to California by the isthmus, 
after the close of the session of Congress, in the 
fall of 1850,, he suffered from Panama fever, 
which left him for a long time quite paralyzed 
by a neuralgic affection of the left side. He 
was utterly unable, from this cause, to return to 
Washington to serve out the residue of his term. 
He was a candidate for reelection to the United 
States Senate, and was supported by the Free 
State party. Governor Charles Robinson was 
a member of the California legislature, at the 
time, and their joint struggles to save that State 
from slavery were, as they both have declared, the 
foundation of the friendship that exists between 
them, and have given additional force to the ardent 

• (321) 



322 LIFE OF FEKMONT. 

sympathy which Col. Fren%ont has expressed, 
from the first, in such decisive language and on 
all occasions, in the devotion of Robinson, and his 
heroic fellow-sufferers, to the same sacred cause 
in Kansas. There were more than 140 ballots. 
Every native Californian voted for him from the 
beginning to the end. There was no election ; 
and the whole subject was postponed to the 
next legislature. 

When his health was sufficiently restored, he 
went into the cattle-raising business. By an 
act of Congress, passed September 30, 1850, 
the President was authorized to appoint " com- 
missioners to hold treaties with the various In- 
dian tribes in the State of California." Three 
were appointed. Upon reaching California, they 
discovered that the main cause of all the Indian 
troubles there, was, that the poor creatures were 
in a state of actual starvation. The rush of gold 
diggers into the San Joaquin valley, had driven 
the Indians into the mountains, where there were 
no means of subsistence. What the Indians 
needed was food. The commissioners, there- 
fore, made treaties with twenty-one tribes, stipu- 
lating the suiTender by them of the gold-bearing 
regions, and their removal to lands of less min- 
eral value, but equally well adapted to their 
uses, and agreeing to provide them with a suffi- 
cient allowance of beef to cover the period of 
their transfer, and sustain them until able to take 



ENGAGES IN THE CATTLE BUSINESS. 323 

cave of themselves in their new location — that 
is, during the remainder of the year 1851 and 
the year 1852. Colonel George W. Barbom*, of 
Kentucky, one of the commissioners, and acting 
by their authority, contracted with Col. Fremont 
to supply the requisite amount of beef. In a 
letter to him, Barbour says : " I have had many 
proposals offered me to furnish such supplies ; 
but regarding your offer as the lowest and best 
of any yet made by a responsible man, and be- 
lieving, as I do, that your offer is a fair one, I 
have concluded to close with your proposition." 
As Col. Fremont was then engaged in the 
cattle-raising business, and was well known to 
all the peopla of the country, and in the enjoy- 
ment of universal confidence and good-will, he 
was enabled to execute such a contract. He col- 
lected a vast number of cattle in the Southern 
part of the State, hired drivers, and himself 
accompanied and superintended the drove. It 
was the dry season. The cattle were driven up- 
wards of 300 miles, in the heat of summer, at 
great labor and expense. About 400 head died 
on the route. He delivered 1,225,500 pounds of 
beef on the hoof, and accepted in payment drafts 
drawn by 'the commissioner on the Secretary of 
the Interior. This supply of food, which he col- 
lected with his usual energy and business capac- 
ity, and delivered on the faith of the Govern- 
ment, was declared by the entire delegation in 



324 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

Congress from California, in 1854, to have re- 
moved the cause of the Indian wars, to have 
given the country peace, and to have opened it 
to the secure labors of the miners. 

But the Senate rejected the treaty. Col. Fre- 
mont's drafts against the Secretary of the Inte- 
rior were not allowed, and he had no remedy 
but by a special act of Congress. For more 
than three years he was kept out of his money. 
The thirty-third Congress at last discharged this 
just debt. A bill passed both Houses unani- 
mously, paying him the principal, and a reason- 
able rate of interest, the whole amounting to 
about $240,000. 

The Mariposa purchase, which, was regarded 
as a hard bargain at the time, became a very 
different affair when the gold discovery was 
made. It is exceedingly rich in the metal, both 
as mixed with the soil, and in the quartz rock, 
as rich, perhaps, as any part of that country. 
Immediately upon this fact becoming known, 
the title by which Col. Fremont holds it was 
brought in question by private parties, and then 
by the Government. This led him to new strug- 
gles and contests, and has carried him through 
a series of experiences that have tested his firm- 
ness as much, perhaps, as any of the trials of his 
life. But, as in every thing else, he has con- 
quered success at last. 

An agent had been employed in England, 



VISIT TO ENGLAND. 325 

who had executed several leases to various par- 
ties. Finding that the title was disputed, and 
that the litigation might be protracted, he came 
back to the Atlantic States in the spring of 
1852, and went over to England, accompanied 
by his family, to prevent all further proceedings 
by his agent, and remove any difficulties or 
embarrassments that might arise from transac- 
tions based upon the supposition of the certain 
validity of the title. He finally succeeded in 
arranging the business to the satisfaction of all 
concerned. 

In England, as afterwards on the continent, 
he received attentions which showed the ex- 
tent to which his geographical discoveries and 
scientific reports had given him a European rep- 
utation. His brilliant and chivalrous proceed- 
ings in California had, no doubt, also atti-acted 
much observation. Learned and scientific socie- 
ties invited him to attend their meetings. Many 
distinguished persons, of eminent attainments 
and high position, sought his acquaintance. 

While in charge of California affairs, by ap- 
pointment as military governor of that territory 
from Commodore Stockton, in the spring of 
1847, he had drawn upon the Secretary of State 
of the United States, Mr. Buchanan, to carry on 
the government, and obtain supplies for the 
troops under his command. These drafts were 
not honored at Washington, as no appropria- 

28 



326 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

tions had been made by Congress to meet them. 
They had remained unpaid, and had passed, per- 
haps, from hand to hand. 

When Col. Fremont had been a few weeks 
in London, without having received any notice 
whatever, he was arrested, at the instance ol 
the holders of some of these drafts, by a 
Solicitor's clerk, accompanied by four constables, 
in front of the Clarendon Hotel, while handing 
his wife into a carriage, on their way to dine 
with Mr. Sturgis. It was past banking hours. 
He inquired for what he was arrested. They 
told him, for £10,000. Upon his saying that 
there must be some mistake, they replied, in a 
very rough way, that he would soon find that 
there was no mistake. They hurried him off 
to a place of confinement, commonly known 
as a " sponging-house," from the extortion prac- 
tised upon persons arrested for debt, who may 
be- supposed to have means. Mrs. Fremont 
instantly sent a message to Mr. Sturgis, explain- 
ing the cause of their absence, and drove her- 
self to the residence of Mr. Lawrence, the 
American Minister in London, to inform him 
of the affair. Mr. Lawrence was not at home. 
He had gone, with Mr. Bates and others, to Mr. 
Sturgis's to meet Col. and Mrs. Fremont. Not 
knowing upon whom -else to call for advice or 
aid, she had to retm-n to her hotel. Mr. Ban- 
croft Davis, then Secretary of Legation, also of 



FIFTH EXPEDITION. 327 

Mr. Sturgis's party, upon receiving information 
of the transaction, went, late in the evening, 
with others, to Col. Fremont, in the place of 
his confinement. The next day, it not being 
proper for Mr. Lawrence, on account of his offi- 
cial position to do it, Mr. George Peabody gave 
the necessary bail, and Col. Fremont was re- 
leased. This was one of the rewards he received 
for having saved California to his country ! To 
be publicly thrown into a British prison, and sub- 
jected to ignominy and outrage in the streets of 
London! What rendered the occurrence par- 
ticularly annoying, was the fact that the Colonel 
and Mrs. Fremont had just before been honored 
by the Queen, with a reception at a Drawing 
Room, of which the usual announcement had 
been made in the public Gazettes. 

Not long after this. Col. Fremont went to 
Paris, where he took a house, in which he 
continued about a year. In June, 1853, he 
returned to his own country. 

In August, 1853, he started upon his fifth 
and last expedition, being determined to solve 
the problem of the practicability of a trans-con- 
tinental communication, by common road, and 
by railroad. This expedition was at the joint 
expense of Col. Fremont and Col. Benton. 

The particular point to which attention was 
to be directed, was, to ascertain the winter 
condition of the country, in reference to the 



828 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

practicability of a railroad, to determine how 
far snow would be an obstruction, and whether 
the circumstances incident to that season could 
be encountered and surmounted. 

So great a length of time elapsed before hear- 
ing from him, that the most serious apprehen- 
sions began to prevail ; and as weeks and 
months wore away and no intelligence came 
from any quarter, a painful conviction deepened 
in the public mind that he had met, at last, the 
fate he had so often braved. It was not until 
the early part of April, 1854, that his safety was 
ascertained. Col. Babbitt, the Secretary of 
Utah Territory, was on his way to "Washington, 
with the United States mail. He had left the 
Great Salt Lake on the 4th of February, and 
was going by what is called the coast route, 
that is, taking passage on the Pacific side, and 
crossing by Panama. On the 8th of February, 
an Indian came to his camp and told him that, 
the day before, he had met a company of Ameri- 
cans, and " that they were hungry." That night 
Babbitt overtook Fremont at a small Mormon 
settlement. He sent a man to his camp to com- 
municate with him, but Fremont excused him- 
self |j:om taliving as he was too much worn out; 
but the next morning early, he called upon Bab- 
bitt and informed him of the route and condi- 
tion of his party. Col. Babbitt published an 
account of the meeting in the California papers, 



FIFTH EXPEDITION. 329 

and they brought the first intelligence received 
from the expedition. About the same time the 
Philadelphia Bulletin contained an extract from 
a letter of Mr. S. N. Carvallo, Col. Fremont's 
daguerreotypist, dated Feb. 8, and brought in, 
undoubtedly, by Col. Babbitt, in which he says 
that the party had " lived fifty days on horse- 
flesh, and for the last forty-eight hours had been 
without food of any kind." The National In- 
telligencer, of April 12, 1854, finally quieted the 
public apprehensions, by the following article : — 
" It gives us great pleasure to insert the sub- 
joined letter from Colonel Fremont, not only 
because it contradicts the exaggerated reports 
of deaths sustained by his party and assures us 
of the intrepid explorer's own safety, after his 
two months' bold journey through the mountain 
wilds in midwinter, but because his success 
seeips fully to have established the favorable 
nature of the central route for a railroad in 
winter as well as summer : — 

1 " Parawa-n, Iron County, Utah Territory, 

"February 9, 1854. 

^^ My dear Sir : I have had the good fortune 
to meet here our friend Mr. Babbitt, the Sec- 

1 Valley of tlie Parawan, about sixty miles east of tlie 
meadows of Santa Clara, between 37 and 38 degrees of 
\iorth latitude, and between 113 and 114 degrees of west 
longitude ; elevation above the sea about 5,000 feet. 

28* 



830 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

retary of the Territory, who is on his way to 
"Washington, in charge of the mail and other 
very interesting despatches, the importance of- 
which is urging him forward with extreme rapid- 
ity. He passes directly on this morning, and I 
have barely a few moments to give you intelli- 
gence of our safe arrival and of our general good 
health and reasonable success in the object of 
our expedition. 

" This winter has happened to be one of ex- 
treme and unusual cold. Here, the citizens 
inform me, it has been altogether the severest 
since the settlement of this valley ; consequently, 
so far as the snows are concerned, the main 
condition of our exploration has been fulfilled. 
We entered the mountain regions on the Huer- 
fano River on the 8d of December, and issued 
from it here on the 7th of this month, arriving 
here yesterday afternoon. We went through 
the Coochatope Pass on the 14th December, 
with four inches, — not feet, take notice, but 
inches — of snow on the level, among the pines 
and in the shade on the summit of the Pass. 
This decides what you consider the great ques- 
tion, and fulfils the leading condition of my 
explorations ; and therefore I go no further into 
details in this letter. 

"I congratulate you on this verification of 
your judgment, and the good prospect it holds 
out of final success in carrying the road by this 



CENTRAL ROUTE. 331 

central line. Nature has been bountiful to this 
region in accumulating here, within a few miles 
of where I am writing, vast deposits of iron 
and coal and timber, all of the most excellent 
quality ; and a great and powerful interior State 
will spring up immediately in the steps of the 
Congressional action which should decide to 
carry the road through this region. In making 
my expedition to this point, I save nearly a 
parallel of latitude, shortening the usual distance 
from Green River to this point by over a hun- 
dred miles. In crossing to the Sierra Nevada, 
I shall go direct by an unexplored route, aiming 
to strili:e directly the Tejon Passes, at the head 
of the San Joaquin valley, through which, in 
1850, I drove from two to three thousand head 
of cattle that I delivered to the Indian Commis- 
sioners. I shaU make what speed I possibly can, 
going light, and abandoning the more elaborated 
survey of my previous line, to gain speed. 

" Until within about a hundred miles of this 
place, we had daguerreotyped the country over 
which we passed, but were forced to abandon 
aU our heavy baggage to save the men, and I 
shall not stop to send back for it. The Dela- 
wares all came in sound, but the whites of my 
party were all exhausted and broken up, and 
more or less frost-bitten. I lost one, Mr. Fuller, 
of St. Louis, Missomi, who died on entering this ' 
valley. He died Like a man, on horseback, in 



832 LIFE OF FRExMONT. 



his saddle, and will be buried like a soldier, on 
the spot where he fell. 

" I hope soon to see you in Washington. Mr. 
Babbitt expects to see you before the end of 
March. Among other documents which he 
carries with him, are the Maps and Report of 
Captain Gunnison) s party. 

" Sincerely and affectionately, 

"John C. Fjiemont. 
" Col. Benton, Washington. 

" P. S. This is the Little Salt Lake settle- 
ment, and was commenced three years since. 
Population now four hundred, and one death by 
sickness since the settlement was made. We 
have been most hospitably received. Mr. Bab- 
bitt has been particularly kind, and has rendered 
me very valuable assistance." 

The St. Louis Democrat of April 8, 1854, 
speaking of this last expedition, after mention- 
ing that it was undertaken, as well as the pre- 
vious one, at his own expense, says that when 
he set out upon it, " his health was in a preca- 
rious condition, and he was even compelled to 
take with him a physician, who accompanied 
him to the E^ocky Mountains. His private 
business in California called loudly for his pres- 
ence there, having suffered by his absence in 
Europe, protracted by imprisonment for debts 
incurred in the conquest of California, and which 
was adding millions every year to the wealth of 



fuemont's explorations. 333 

our people, whilst our government neglected and 
refused to pay the debt incurred by Fremont in 
its acquisition. It was under such difficulties 
and embarrassments, in the face of so much 
personal sacrifice and danger, that this expedi- 
tion was undertaken by the heroic and intrepid 
adventurer." 

On Colonel Fremont's return to the Atlantic 
States, the St. Louis Intelligencer welcomed 
him in the following language : — 

" The maxim that fortune favors the brave, 
has been signally illustrated by the fact that the 
winter which Col. Fremont chose for exploring 
a howling wilderness of thousands of miles, 
where he was cut off for weeks from the succor 
and sympathy of civilized man, except his own 
party, has been the hardest winter ever known 
in those regions. To carry his men safely 
through the fearful hardships and perils of this 
unexampled winter, is itself a solution of the 
problem which he went to determine, besides 
showing fortitude, mental resources, and uncon- 
querable energy of will, which stamp the hardy 
explorer as one of the great men of action who 
make their mark upon their country and their 
age. It is the fit crowning achievement of a 
series of adventurous explorations, not sur- 
passed, if equalled, in respect to the qualities 
displayed and the magnitude of the results, by 
any similar career in the history of mankind. 



334 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

The career of Fremont has been characteris- 
tically western and American, at a time when 
the great work of western America is to subdue 
the wilderness. He is a mightier Daniel Boone, 
on a far more magnificent theatre, and adds to 
the sturdy qualities of the pioneer of civiliza- 
tion, those graces and attainments of science 
and literature, which only the highest civilization 
can confer." 

In the National Intelligencer, of June 13, 
1854, Col. Fremont pubhshed a letter condens- 
ing the general results of his last exploration, 
which the House of Representatives ordered to 
be reprinted among its miscellaneous documents. 
When his full report is published, it will contain a 
rigid and thorough discussion of all the obstacles 
and difficulties in the way of the construction 
of a railroad connecting the Atlantic States, cen- 
trally, with the Pacific coast. It is well known 
that he is fully convinced that it can be done. 
When the people say that it shall be done, it 
will be done. The resources of this great coun- 
try are adequate to the work. Its commerce, its 
union, and its power, require it. AU that is 
needed is a government pledged to accomplish 
it, and honest, firm, and energetic enough to 
redeem its pledge. 

After a resistance on the part of the United 
States quite unparalleled, and continued to a 
point of persistency which brought down a 



MARIPOSA PATENT. 385 

rebuke from the bench, the supreme court, dur- 
ing its last session, fully and finally established 
Col. Fremont's title to the Mariposa grant, and 
his patent was made out and delivered to him 
by the President himself. 

It is a property of very great value. To meet 
the various expenses incident to a harassing 
and tedious litigation, it was necessary to con- 
vey one half of it to another party. It contains 
seventy square miles, and includes ah-eady a 
population rising 10,000. The town of Mari- 
posa is a county seat, having a court-house that 
cost $12,000. There are six or eight other 
towns or villages, within its limits, and its 
value is rapidly increasing. While the title 
hung in doubt, its prosperity was kept in check. 
But now every thing can be placed on a firm 
basis. The Mariposa Gazette, the local news- 
paper, in a recent article, expresses the gratifica- 
tion of the people of the territory, that it has 
been secured to Col. Fremont. His countrymen 
of all parties, we may rest assm'ed, participate 
warmly in the same satisfaction. 

Although the meridian of Life is scarcely yet 
reached, its great struggles seem to be over, and 
he may well enjoy the felicity, which a retro- 
spect of usefulness and honor, and the blessings 
of a bountiful Providence, cannot fail to bestow. 



CHAPTER X. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



The career of Col. Fremont must be con- 
sidered as one of the most active, and crowded 
with service, of any in the whole circle of 
biography. Considering that we live in what is 
called a utilitarian age, and that his line of 
occupation has itself been eminently practical, 
it is remarkable how much that is romantic and 
almost marvellous is spread over it. Poetry 
has seldom indulged in visions stranger or more 
exciting than has been his reality. Chivalry has 
seldom had finer models than his camp pre- 
sented. The artist finds as many scenes of 
varied and most attractive interest, in the events 
and circumstances delineated on the foregoing 
pages, as in the experience of any feudal or 
heroic period of the world. The days of high 
adventure are not over ; life, in our times, and 
in our country, opens still a field for true hero- 
ism ; and, in every calling, presents emergencies 

( 33G ) 



PERSON AND MANNERS. 337 

that will Ixy and display the power and glory 
of courage, truth, benevolence, and fidelity. 

Of a character not yet closed, no minute or 
full portrait can be drawn. But his country- 
men justly ask to be made acquainted, in some 
detail of particulars, with the person of one who 
has attracted so much their attention ; and a 
few general reflections may, with propriety, b( 
appended to the narrative now brought to a 
close. 

Colonel Fremont is not yet old in years, and 
looks even younger than he is. He is in the 
full flower of matured strength and health. 
He is about five feet nine inches in height, but 
from his perfectly straight, erect, and elastic 
bearing, appears taller than his inches. He is 
quite slender, but weU made, of a peculiarly 
graceful bearing, quick and alert in his move- 
ments ; and by his manners and expression, 
conciliates the good-will of aU whom he meets. 
His success in life is partly owing to the favor- 
able impression he makes by his manner of 
treating others in common intercourse. Consul 
Larkin, in a letter to the Secretary of State, 
dated April 2, 1846, referring to Fremont's first 
visit to Monterey, says that he "was well re- 
ceived in this place, and to the last day we 
heard of him, by the natives individually, who 
sold him provisions and liked his presence." 
Colonel William H. Russell, a witness of the 



338 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

highest character, and great means of informa- 
tion, testified before the military committee of 
the Senate as follows : " In consequence of the 
wise and humane treatment of Colonel Fremont 
towards the conquered population, his popularity- 
became very great in the country, and enabled 
him to do what no other man, I confidently 
believe, could have done." There is much more 
testimony to the same effect. The point is 
urged as an important lesson. Nothing costs 
less, and nothing purchases so much as a kind, 
respectful, courteous, and agreeable treatment 
of others. 

This uniform justice and friendliness of man- 
ner and spirit in his treatment of others, com- 
bined with readiness to decide where the decision 
belongs to him ; rapid, and as the result has al- 
ways proved, correct judgment; cool and intrepid 
corn-age, and persevering firmness of purpose, 
constitute that great executive capacity he has 
invariably exhibited, by which perfect order and 
constant harmony were preserved among his 
men, and his force rendered efficient, invincible, 
and successful against all odds. This executive 
capacity enabled him to surmount all obstacles 
in his exploring expeditions, and was signally 
shown in the conquest and government of Cali- 
fornia. It enabled him, in concluding his spirit- 
ed defence before the court-martial, to say, in 
the bold confidence of truth : — 



PHYSICAL ENDURANCE. 339 

" My acts in California have all been with 
high motives, and a desire for the public service. 
My scientific labors did something to open Cali- 
fornia to the knowledge of my countrymen ; its 
geography had been a sealed book. My military 
operations were conquests without bloodshed; 
my civil administration was for the public good. 
I offer California, dming my administration, for 
comparison with the most tranquil portions of 
the United States ; I offer it, in contrast to the 
condition of New Mexico during the same time." 

It was said that the Secretary of "War, who 
had come into office during his absence, and had 
never seen him before, could hardly believe his 
own eyes, when a modest, light, and slender 
youth reported himself as Lieutenant Fremont, 
just returned from his expedition to Oregon and 
North California. His appearance still impresses 
a similar surprise upon those who know what he 
has gone through. The explanation is to be 
found in temperate habits, and a cheerful faith 
in success ; in calm courage to undertake, and pa- 
tient firmness to bear and go through, whatever 
duty imposes. The physical frame, if preserved 
from all enfeebling indulgences, and animated 
by a well-regulated, contented, and resolute mind, 
will retain the buoyancy of its spirits and the 
energy of its forces. An active out-of-door fife 
in the pure mountain air, and indurated by long 
usage to the elements of nature, will be very 



340 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

likely to harden a constitution to a high degree 
of firmness. In this way we are to account for 
the remarkable evidences of physical endurance 
recorded in these pages. Often Fremont rode 
sixty miles a day, swanl foaming mountain 
torrents, slept uncovered, save by a blanket, in 
pouring rains and on beds of snow, and walked 
and worked, day after day, without food. So it 
was with his men. Carson and Godey pursued, 
attacked, and routed an Indian party, slew two 
warriors whose hands were yet red with the blood 
of murdered travellers, and brought in their scalps, 
having ridden one hundred miles in thirty hours. 
Fremont accomplished a still more extraordinary 
feat. Accompanied by Pico, the CaUfornian com- 
mandant, whose life he had spared, and Jacob 
Dodson, he rode from Los Angeles to Monterey, 
four hundred and eighty miles in three days and 
ten hours, and after remaining one day, made 
the return distance within the same time. This 
is in part to be accounted for, perhaps, by the 
exhilarating effect of the atmosphere of that 
region upon all animal life, but it still remains a 
wonderful illustration of the degree to which the 
physical energies may be invigorated by habits 
adapted to strengthen them. 

In this connection it is to be observed, as 
Lieutenant Walpole mentions in the extract 
quoted from his book, that Fremont's expeditions 
were conducted on temperance principles. This 



GOOD CnAEACTER OF HIS MEN. 841 

enabled him to maintain the perfection of dis- 
cipline which won the admiration of all who 
witnessed the conduct of his battalion. With- 
out any military badges, without even a drum 
to tap, there was the most exact regularity and 
order. Without severity there was obedience. 
Combined with that precision and thoroughness 
of discipline, there was a singular equality of 
condition, a pervading, fraternal feeling, that 
knit them together as one family. Service under 
Fremont was a school of personal good conduct, 
and good feeling, and of every manly virtue. 
The consequence is that those of his men, who 
have survived their hardships, are, with scarcely 
a single exception, good citizens, useful members 
of society, men of commendable habits, and en- 
joying the prosperity which such characteristics 
will be likely, in the long run, to command. 

The expression "who have survived," leads 
me to remark that these expeditions, although 
not considered by some perhaps as entitled to 
the interest with which liability to death invests 
the ordinary sphere of warfare, were as fatal to 
life as the battle-field. Besides, those already 
mentioned as killed by Indians, frozen, or starved 
to death, " Bill Williams," the unfortunate guide 
in the fourth expedition, and one of the brothers, 
Kern, with several others, were killed by the 
Lidians shortly after Fremont separated from 
them to pursue his route. Charles Towne was 

29* 



842 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

also killed by Indians on another occasion, 
Creutzfeldt, and another of the Kerns, were mas- 
sacred with Captain Gunnison. Derosier, it is 
feared, never recovered from the effects of his 
derangement ; to which malady the life of poor 
Preuss became a voluntary sacrifice. 

A community of suffering, pride in a joint rep- 
utation, a strict discipline voluntarily preserved, 
observation of each other's worth in the most 
trying scenes, bound this company of men to- 
gether by a strength of affection and fidelity 
which it is most delightful to contemplate. They 
were severally and always ready to risk life for 
each other ; and there never appeared to be the 
least jealousy or unworthy rivalry among them. 
This is itself the highest evidence of the justice 
and wisdom of their leader. Colonel Fremont 
could the more easily maintain this unity and 
harmony among his men, because he treated 
them all alike. Without losing his dignity, he 
held the most affectionate relations with even 
the humblest of his band. Delaware Indians 
were his body-guard and followed him to the 
very last. The free colored man, Dodson, was 
often selected to share with him the most re- 
sponsible services, and was always recognized 
as standing on the same level with the rest. He 
has since married, and lives in Washington. 
Colonel Fremont has given to each of his three 
children, 20 acres of California land. In the 



ATTACHMENT TO HIS PERSON. 343 

postscript of a letter to Colonel Benton, dated 
July 23, 1855, Carson says: "If Colonel Fre- 
mont is with you, give him my kindest remem- 
brances, as also to his excellent lady. I was 
delighted to see in the papers that his IMariposa 
gi-ant had been confirmed, for if there is a man 
living who deserves the blessings of heaven and 
the gratitude of man, he is one." There is no 
doubt that every one of his men would heartily 
indorse the warm expressions of Carson's affec- 
tion. But it is not the hardy backwoodsman, 
or the humble Indian or African alone, that 
becomes thus attached to him. Persons of the 
hisrhest culture find themselves drawn towards 
him in the same manner. Captain A. Cathcart, 
an officer in the British army, nephew of Sir 
George Cathcart who recently fell in the 
Crimea, and a gentleman of extensive travel and 
observation, conversant with all the most dis- 
tinguished men of his own country, and in Euro- 
pean capitals, accompanied Colonel Fremont in 
his disastrous expedition to the St. John's Moun- 
tain. The sufferings and trials of that journey 
tested the character and qualities of aU who 
shared them, and especially of the commander 
of the ill-fated party. Captain Cathcart con- 
ceived a deep interest in Colonel Fremont, and 
established a friendship that expresses itself in a 
permanent correspondence. In 1851, he sent 
him, as a testimonial of his regard, a handsome 



344 LIFE OP FEEMONT. 

Bteel-mounted sword, expressly made for him, at 
London. On the blade is the national motto of 
the American Union, with the accompanying 
embellishments beautifully wrought, with these 
words : " The Hon. Colonel Fremont, from A. 
Cathcart." 

The case of this English gentleman leads to 
the consideration of the estimation in which 
foreigners have long held the character and 
services of Colonel Fremont. The P^oyal 
Geographical Society of London elected him a 
member, of which Mr. Lawrence conveyed 
information to him, through the Secretary of 
State. He also transmitted to him the " Found- 
er's or Victoria" gold medal of the same society. 
The Berlin Geographical Society elected him a 
member, and sent him a gold medal. The 
Reports of his first two expeditions were highly 
commended in all the foreign journals. 

The Eclectic Review, in an article on an 
English reprint of them, expresses itself in the 
following emphatic and discriminating language. 

" The expedition required much physical 
strength, great courage, and no common skill in 
meeting the contingencies which daily arose. 
These were preeminently possessed by Captain 
Fremont, in happy combination with the knowl- 
edge which enabled him t(? bring from the com- 
paratively unknown region he visited, important 
contributions to the sciences of astronomy, 
geography, botany, and geology." 



FOllEIGN REPUTATION. 345 

The reference, in this extract, to Colonel Fre* 
mont's attainments in knowledge is entirely just. 
In addition to the branches named, with which 
he is eminently conversant, his early classical 
attainments have not been allowed to fade from 
his memory. Mathematics still continue to 
engage his chief predilection ; and he writes and 
speaks the French and Spanish with the facility 
and correctness of a native. 

The following passage of a letter from the 
late Theophile Gay, one of the most eminent 
French botanists, shows the affectionate and 
respectful regard in which he is held by scientific 
men abroad: — 

"Paris, the 27th of October, 1853. ) 
"Rue de Vaugirard, No. 36. ) 

" Colonel : I received from you, some time 
since, two most agreeable proofs that you held 
me in remembrance, and I should have written 
much sooner in answer, if I had not feared 
you were already on your way to California, and 
that my letter would not find you at Washington. 

"But your last message, without date, reached 
me the 5th of October, that is to say, at a date 
when it would not be prudent to risk one's self for 
a voyage of several months' length across the 
North American continent. From that, I con- 
clude that you have deferred your expedition to 
the coming spring, and consequently will receive 
in Washington my thanks, and my most sincere 



346 LIFE OF FRElsfONT. 

and ardent wishes for the success of this new 
and perilous expedition. 

^ tP ^ tP tP * 

" In a second package, I received the PlantcB 
Fremo7itiance of Doctor Torrey, and this has 
been to me an object of new and very lively 
gratification; because it was again something 
personal to you, Colonel, and that you have 
found a historiographer perfectly up to the level 
of his task, — not only an historiographer, but 
an artist-naturalist, (peintre-naturaliste,) such as 
there exist very few of in Europe, and one 
only in France, (I speak of Riocreux.) T knew 
him already through the Planter Wightiance of 
Asa Gray, and I esteem it a great good fortune 
for the botanists of the Union to possess so dis- 
tinguished an interpreter of then- observations. 
With' drawings of such elegance and correctness, 
the value of the text is doubled." 

In Mrs. Sabine's translation of Humboldt's 
" Aspects of Nature," the high estimate which 
that truly great man places upon Fremont's Re- 
ports is seen at length. He speaks of his " com- 
prehensive observations," and enlarges on the 
importance of his expeditions to the cause of 
science. " As I was, I believe," says he, " the 
first person who undertook to represent, in 
geognostic profile, the form of entire countries, 
it has given me peculiar pleasure to see the 
graphical method of representing the form of 



Humboldt's opinio^ of him. 347 

the earth in a vertical direction, or the elevation 
of the solid portions of our planet above its 
watery covering, applied on so grand a scale as 
has been done in Fremont's map." 

A correspondent of the New York Commer- 
cial Advertiser, in an article copied into the 
Boston Journal, in describing a visit to this 
" Nestor of scientific travellers," says : " The name 
of Colonel Fremont happening to be mentioned, 
Humboldt spoke in high praise of his con- 
tributions to geographical science, and thought 
it unfortunate that he had returned, as a prisoner, 
by the road which he had travelled as an ex- 
plorer. He thought the day would come when 
Colonel Fremont's worth would be much better 
appreciated than at present." 

The opinions of the scientific men of his own 
country were expressed by Professor Silliman in 
a review of his Keports, in the American Journal 
of Science and Art, second series. Vol. iii. 
March, 1847. 

"Few travellers have encountered greater 
hardships, and none have exhibited more in- 
domitable courage or untiring zeal." " Captain 
Fremont's journal is written in a gi-aphic style, 
bearing evidence of literal accuracy in all its 
statements, and yet, in many parts, reading like 
a romance. With deep interest we follow the 
adventurous traveller, threading his pathless way 
over lojfty ridges, through dense forests, and up 



848 Lirj: of fremont. 

the icy heights." Speaking of the fact that a 
particular flower had been called " Fremontia," 
he says : " It is right that this bold explorer of 
the mountains should have his name inscribed 
among the flowers of the region, and about its 
loftiest heights, as well as upon the honored page 
of history." 

Colonel Fremont inherited from his father a 
particular interest in the Indian tribes of the 
continent ; and no man so well understands their 
peculiar traits, or knows so well how to deal 
with them. With Indian wars breaking out 
from Florida to Puget's Sound, this is no trifling 
qualification for the administration of our public 
affairs. 

It is said that the Indians of his day admitted 
General "Washington to their heaven, and were 
of opinion that no other white man would be 
allowed to enter those celestial hunting-grounds. 
The Indians of the present day have a similar 
affection for Fremont. This is not the only 
point of interesting resemblance between them. 
The same blood flowed in their veins. The 
domestic influences under which the mother of 
Fremont grew up, were derived from the same 
circle of family connections within which Wash- 
ington was nm*tured. Several of the most im- 
pressible years of her son's childhood were passed 
in that circle, among her kindred in Virginia. 
The same remarkable prediction was uttered in 



WASniNGTON. 549 

the early stages of their career. Though each 
has been exposed to every peril of the wilderness, 
and of battle, their lives have been constantly 
shielded from danger, and no hostile arm has 
ever reached their persons. When we consider 
what Fremont has encountered, in cold and 
hunger, in rapids and rushing rivers, irom the 
tomahawk and the rifle, we may well regard him 
as "a man of destiny," and believe that Heaven 
has preserved him, also, for some great purpose, 
yet to be fulfilled. They were both particularly 
devoted to the mathematical branches of learn- 
ing, by an early and natural partiality. Both 
were on the point of being committed for life to 
the naval service. Both, while scarcely more 
than boys, commenced the business of survey- 
ors ; they both ripened into rfianhood, carrying 
the chain and compass in the wildernesses of the 
Alleghany ranges; and both devoted their spec- 
ulations and explorations to the same special 
object. It is well known that more than, and 
before, all his contemporaries, Washington dis- 
cerned the importance of connecting the Atlantic 
States with the interior, and labored to promote 
it. Following in the steps of the great leader, 
the mind of Fremont has ever been engi"ossed 
with similar views and objects. He has led the 
way, in our day, in opening to view the vast 
hidden regions between the great mountain 
ranges of the continent. He first unfurled our 

30 



350 LIFE OF FREMONT. 

flag on the summits of them both. To his 
boldness and prompt decision we are indebted 
for the integrity of our Pacific empire; and, if 
the great desire of his heart and object of his 
life is to be accomplished, we shall have a 
Pacific Railroad. 

His letter to the National Intelligencer of 
June 13, 1854, closes with these words : — 

" It seems a treason against mankind and the 
spirit of progress which marks the age, to refuse 
to put this one completing link to our national 
prosperity and the civilization of the world. 
Europe still lies between Asia and America ; 
build this raikoad, and things will have revolved 
about ; America will lie between Asia and Eu- 
rope, — the golden vein which runs through the 
history of the world, will follow the iron track to 
San Francisco, and the Asiatic trade will finally 
fall into its last and permanent road, when the 
ancient and the modern Chryse throw open their 
gates to the thoroughfare of the world." 

No man can claim the glory of a true Ameri- 
can by a better title. He has made the knowledge 
and the development of the resources of this 
continent the great end of all his exertions, and 
has pursued it with a self-sacrificing devotion. 
His name is stamped with an imprint that can 
never be obliterated, over the whole breadth of 
its geography. 

Exploring the North American Continent, of 



FREE LABOR. 351 

which he has seen more than any other man, 
with this object in view, he has naturally become 
devoted to the cause of free labor. It has 
always been obvious to him, as one would sup- 
pose it could not fail to be to every intelligent 
person, that the realization of the commer- 
cial, industrial, social, and moral greatness, of 
which America is capable, depends vitally and 
wholly upon maintaining the dignity and the 
RIGHTS of Labor. He contended earnestly to 
make California a free State, and his sympathies 
are with the struggles of freemen everywhere 
against the extension of slavery, as his letter to 
Governor Robinson of Kansas shows. As this 
letter is a part of the public history of the times, 
it is presented here. 

"New York, 176 Second Avenue, March 17, 1856. 

" My dear Sir : Your letter of February 
reached me in Washington some time since. I 
read it with much satisfaction. It was a great 
pleasure to find that you retained so lively a 
recollection of our intercourse in California. 
But my own experience is, that permanent and 
valuable friendships are most often formed in 
contests and struggles. If a man has good 
points, then they become salient, and we know 
each other suddenly. 

" I had both been thinking and spealdng of 
you latterly. The Banks balloting in the House 



352 LIFE OP FREMONT. 

and your movements in Kansas had naturally 
carried my mind back to our one hundred and 
forty odd ballots in California, and your letter 
came seasonably and fitly to complete the con- 
nection. We were defeated then ; but that con- 
test was only an incident in a great struggle, 
and the victory was deferred, not lost. You 
have carried to another field the same principle, 
with courage and ability to maintain it ; and I 
make you my sincere congratulations on your 
success — ^incomplete so far, but destined in the 
end to triumph absolutely. 

" I had been waiting to see what shape the 
Kansas question would take in congress, that 
I might be enabled to give you some views in 
relation to the probable result. Nothing yet 
has been accomplished ; but I am satisfied that 
in the end congress will take efficient measures 
to lay before the American people the exact 
truth concerning your affaks. Neither you nor 
I can have any doubt what verdict the people 
will pronounce, upon a truthful exposition. It 
is to be feared, from the proclamation of the 
President, that he intends to recognize the usur- 
pation in Kansas, as the legitimate government, 
and that its sedition law, the test oath, and the 
means to be taken to expel its people as aliens, 
will all directly or indirectly be supported by 
the army of the United States. Your position 
will undoubtedly be difficult, but you know I 



GOVERNOR ROBINSON. 353 

have great confidence in your firmness and pru- 
dence. When the critical moment arrives, you 
must act for yourself — no man can give you 
counsel. A true man will always find his best 
counsel in that inspiration which a good cause 
never fails to give him at the instant of trial." 
All history teaches us that great results are 
ruled by a wise Providence, and we are but 
units in the great plan. Your action will be 
determined by events as they present them- 
selves, and at this distance I can only say that 
I sympathize cordially with you; and that, as 
you stood by me firmly and generously when 
we were defeated by the Nullifiers in California, 
I have every disposition to stand by you in 
the same way in your battle with them in 
Kansas. 

" You see that what I have been saying is 
more a reply to the suggestions which your con- 
dition makes to me, than any answer to your 
letter, which more particularly regards myself. 
The notices which you had seen of me, in con- 
nection with the Presidency, came from the 
partial disposition of friends, who think of me 
more flatteringly than I do of myself, and do 
not, therefore, call for any action from us. Re- 
peating that I am really and sincerely gratified 
in the renewal of our old friendship, or rather 
in the expression of it, which I hope will not 

30* 



354 LIFE OF FEEMONT. 

hereafter have so long an interval, 1 am yours, 
very truly, J. C. Fremont. 

" Gov. Charles Robinson, Lawrence, Kan- 
sas." 

The example of Col. Fremont has been de- 
lineated in this work, and is exhibited to his 
countrymen not for any temporary purpose, but 
because it ought, from its essential worth and 
importance, to be placed where all can con- 
template it. His personal history is, in many 
essential particulars, especially in reference to 
California affairs, the history of the country. 
But the example is held up, mainly, on account 
of its moral value to the rising generations of 
America. The course of John Charles Fremont 
is a pattern, and his success an encouragement 
to every noble mind, which, despising sloth and 
ease, folly and pleasure, aspires to an honorable 
usefulness to be achieved by meritorious exer- 
tions. 

The self-made man, sustaining himself in the 
pursuit of knowledge, by incessant labors as an 
humble teacher of private classes — ^the young 
pioneer, penetrating interior forests, climbing 
snow-clad mountains, enduring every privation, 
and braving every danger — ^the patriot soldier, 
ever ready to die beneath the flag of his country 
— ^the humane conqueror, by clemency making 
his victories complete — ^the gallant commander. 



CONCLUSION. 355 

just and kind to his men — the enlightened 
legislator, watching over the interests and rights 
of Labor and Industry — ^the scientific scholar, 
commanding the respect of the learned men 
of his country and the world — and the far- 
reaching statesman, embracing the continent in 
his policy, and giving his life, in an unparalleled 
service of toil, suffering, and peril, to open a 
channel through which^the wealth of the other 
continents may flow over its surface, are all 
before the eyes of the young bien of America, 
in the character portrayed on these pages. May 
the spectacle give ardor to every manly virtue, 
and inspire all hearts with industry and resolu- 
tion in self-improvement, with fidelity and 
courage in the discharge of duty, and with an 
exalted and comprehensive patriotism. 



APPENDIX. 



After tlie foregoing work liad been put to press, a con- 
vention of delegates assembled at Philadelphia, on the 1 7th 
of June, 1856, under a call addressed to the People of the 
United States, without regard to political divisions, unani- 
mously nominated Colonel Fremont for the office of Presi- 
dent of the United States. 

A convention of delecjates sittincr in New York at the 
same time, representing that portion of the American party- 
opposed to the repeal of the INlissouri Compromise, also unani- 
mously nominated him for the same office. 

The principles upon which these conventions acted are 
fully set forth in the Resolutions adopted at Philadelphia, 
which were as follows : — 

" This convention of delegates, assembled in pursuance of 
a call addressed to the peoj)le of the United States, Avithout 
regard to past political differences or divisions, who are 
opposed to the repeal of the Missouri Compromise ; to the 
policy of the present Administration ; to the extension of 
slavery into free territory ; in favor of the admission of 
Kansas as a free State ; of restoring the action of the Federal 
Government to the principles of Washington and Jefferson ; 
and for the purpose of presenting candidates for the offices 
of President and Vice-President, do 

1. ^^ Resolve, That the maintenance of the principles pro- 
mulgated in the Declaration of Independence and embodied 
in the Federal Constitution, is essential to the preservation 

(356) 



APPENDIX. 857 

of our republican institutions, and that tlie Federal Consti- 
tution, the rights of the States, and the union of the States, 
shall be preserved. 

2. " Resolved, That with our republican fathers we hold it 
to be a self-evident truth that all men are endowed with the 
unalienable right to life, liberty, and the pursuit of happi- 
ness, and that the primary object and ulterior design of our 
Federal Government were to secure those rights to all per- 
sons within its exclusive jurisdiction ; that as our republican 
fathers, when they had abolished slavery in all our national 
territory, ordained that no person should be deprived of life, 
liberty, or property, without due process of law, it becomes 
our duty to maintain this provision of the Constitution 
against all attempts to violate it, for the purpose of establish- 
ing slavery in the United States by positive legislation, pro- 
hibiting its existence or extension therein. That we deny 
the authority of congress, of a territorial legislature, of any 
individual or association of individuals, to slve leo-al exist- 
ence to slavery In any territory of the United States, while 
the present Constitution shall be maintained. 

3. " Resolved, That the Constitution confers upon congress 
sovereign power over the territories of the United States 
for their government, and that in the exercise of this power 
it is both the right and the duty of congress to prohibit in 
the territories those twin relics of barbarism — polygamy and 
slavery. 

4. " Resolved, That while the Constitution of the United 
States was ordained and established by the people, in order 
to ' form a more perfect union, establish justice. Insure do- 
mestic tranquillity, provide for the common defence, and 
secure the blessings of liberty,' and contains ample pro^^sions 
for the protection of the life, liberty, and property of every 
citizen, the dearest constitutional rights of the people of 
Kansas have been fraudulently and violently taken from 
them; 

" Their territory has been invaded by an armed force ; 



358 APPENDIX. 

" Spurious and pretended legislative, judicial, and executive 
officers have been set over them, by whose usurped author- 
ity, sustained by the military power of the government, 
tyrannical and unconstitutional laws have been enacted and 
enforced ; 

" The rights of the people to keep and bear arms have been 
infringed ; 

" Test oaths of an extraordinary and entangling nature 
have been imposed as a condition of exercising the right of 
suifrao;e and holding office ; 

" The right of an accused person to a speedy and pubhc 
trial by an impartial jury has been denied ; 

" The right of the people to be secure in their persons, 
houses, papers, and eifects, against unreasonable searches 
and seizures has been violated ; 

" They have been deprived of life, liberty, and property 
without due process of law ; 

" That the freedom of speech and of the press has been 
abridged ; 

" The right to choose their representatives has been made 
of no effect ; 

" Murders, robberies, and arsons, have been instigated and 
encouraged, and the offenders have been allowed to go un- 
punished ; 

" That all these things have been done with the knowledge, 
sanction, and procurement of the present Administration ; 
and that for this lilgh crime against the Constitution, the 
Union, and humanity, we arraign that Administration, the 
President, his advisers, agents, supporters, apologists, and 
accessories either before or after the facts — before the coun- 
tiy and before the world ; and that it is our fixed purpose to 
bring the actual perpetrators of these atrocious outrages, and 
their accomplices, to a sure and condign punishment here- 
after. 

5. " Resolved, Tliat Kansas should be immediately ad- 
mitted as a State of the Union, with her present Free Con- 



APPENDIX. 359 

stitutlon, as at once the most effectual way of securing to 
her citizens the enjoyment of the rights and privileges to 
which they are entitled, and of ending the civil strife now 
raging in her territory. 

6. " Resolved, That the highwayman's plea that ' might 
makes right,' embodied in the Ostend Circular, was in every 
respect unworthy of American diplomacy, and would bring 
shame and dishonor upon any government of people that 
should give it their sanction. 

7. " Resolved, That a railroad to the Pacific Ocean by the 
most central and practical route is imperatively demanded 
by the interests of the whole country, and that the Federal 
Government ought to render immediate and efficient aid in 
its construction, and, as an auxiliary thereto, the immediate 
construction of an emigrant route on the line of the railroad. 

8. ^'■Resolved, That appropriations by congress for the 
improvement of rivers and harbors, of a national character, 
required for the accommodation and security of our existing 
commerce, are authorized by the constitution, and justified 
by the obhgation of government to protect the lives and 
property of its citizens. 

9. " Resolved, That we invite the affiliation and coopera- 
tion of the men of aU parties, however differing from us in 
other respects, in suj)port of the principles herein declared ; 
and beheving that the spirit of our institutions as well as the 
constitution of our country guarantees liberty of conscience 
and equality of rights among citizens, we oppose all legisla- 
tion impairing their security." 



360 APPENDIX. 



ACCEPTANCE OF THE NEW YORK NOMINATION. 

" New York, June 30, 1856. 

" Gentlemeist : I received ■with deep sensibility your 
communication, informing me that a convention of my fellow- 
citizens, recently assembled in this city, have nominated me 
their candidate for the hifrhest office in the mft of the 
American people ; and I desire through you to offer to the 
members of that body, and to their respective constituencies, 
my grateful acknowledgment for this distinguished expression 
of confidence. In common with all who are Interested in 
the welfare of the country, I had been strongly impressed by 
the generous spirit of conciliation which influenced the 
action of your assembly and characterizes your note. A dis- 
position to avoid all special questions tending to defeat una- 
nimity in the great cause, for the sake of which it was con- 
ceded that differences of opinion on less eventful questions 
should be held in abeyance, was evinced alike In the jjro- 
ceedings of your convention in reference to me, and in the 
manner by which you have communicated the result. In 
this course no sacrifice of opinion on any side becomes 
necessary. 

" I shall in a few days be able to transmit you a paper, 
designed for all parties engaged in our cause, in which I pre- 
sent to the country my views of the leading subjects which 
are now put In issue in the contest for the Presidency. My 
confidence in the success of our cause is greatly strengthened 
by the belief that these views will meet the approbation of 
your constituents. 

" Trusting that the national and patriotic feelings evinced 
by the tender of your cooperation In the work of regenerat- 
ing the government, may increase the glow of enthusiasm 
which pervades the country, and harmonize all elements in 



APPENDIX. 361 

our truly great and common cause, I accept the nomination 
with which you have honored me, and am, gentlemen, very 
respectfully, Your fellow-citizen, 

"J. C. Fremont. 
"Messrs. Thomas H. Ford, Ambrose Stephens, W. A. 
Howard, Stephen M. Allen, Simon P. Kase, Thos. Shank- 
land, J. A. Dunham, M. C. Geer — a committee of the Na- 
tional American party." 



THE PHILADELPHIA NOMINATION. 

" Philadelphia, June 19, 1856. 

" Sir : A convention of delegates, assembled at Philadel- 
phia on 17th, 18th, and 19th days of June, 1856, under a 
call addressed to the people of the United States, without 
regard to past political differences or divisions, who are 
opposed to the repeal of the Missouri Compromise, to the 
policy of the present Administration, to the extension of 
slavery into free territory, in favor of the admission of 
Kansas as a free State, and of restoring the action of the 
Federal Government to the principles of Washington and 
Jefferson, adopted a declaration of principles and purposes 
for which they are united in political action — a copy of 
which we have the honor to inclose — and unanimously nomi- 
nated you as their candidate for the office of President of 
the United States at the approaching election, as the chosen 
representative of those principles in this important political 
contest, and with the assured conviction that you would give 
them full practical operation, should the suffrages of the 
people of the Union place you at the head of the National 
Government. 

" The undersigned were directed by the convention to 
communicate to you the fact of your nomination, and to re- 



362 APPENDIX. 

quest you in their name, and, as they believe, in the name 
of a large majority of the people of the country, to accept it. 
" Offering you the assurance of our high personal respect, 
we are, your fellow-citizens, 

"H. S. Lane, 

President of the Convention^ 
jAiiES M. Ashley, 
Anthony J. Bleecker, 
Joseph C. Hornblowek, 
E. K. HoAK, 
Thaddeus Stevens, 
Kinsley S. Bingham, 
John A. Wills, 
C. F. Cleveland, 
Cyrus Aldrich." 
" To John C. Fremont, of California." 



ACCEPTANCE OF THE PHILADELHPIA NOMINATION. 

" New York, July 8, 1856. 
" Gentlemen : You call me to a high responsibility by 
placing me in the van of a great movement of the people of 
the United States, who, without regard to past dijQferences, 
are united in a common effort to bring back the action of the 
Federal Government to the principles of Washington and 
Jefferson. Comprehending the magnitude of the trust 
which they have declared themselves willing to place in my 
hands, and deeply sensible to the honor which their un- 
reserved confidence in this threatening position of the pub- 
lic affairs implies, I feel that I cannot better respond than by 
a sincere declaration that, in the event of my election to the 
Presidency, I should enter upon the execution of its duties 
with a single-hearted determination to promote the good of 
the whole country, and to direct solely to this end all the 
power of the government, irrespective of party issues, and 
regardless of sectional strifes. The declaration of principles 



APPENDIX. 863 

embodied in the resolves of your convention, expresses the 
sentiments in which I have been educated, and which have 
been ripened into convictions by personal observation and 
experience. With this declaration and avowal, I think it 
necessary to revert to only two of the subjects embraced in 
the resolutions, and to those only, because events have sur- 
rounded them with grave and critical circumstances, and 
given to them especial importance. 

" I concur in the views of the convention deprecating the 
foreign policy to which it adverts. TJie assumption that we 
have the risht to take from another nation its domains be- 
cause we want them, is an abandonment of the honest 
charact^ which our country has acquired. To provoke 
hostilities by unjust assumptions would be to sacrifice the 
peace and character of the country, when all its interests 
might be more certainly secured, and its objects attained by 
just and healing counsels, involving no loss of reputation. 

" International embarrassments are mainly the results of 
a secret diplomacy, which aims to keep from the knowledge 
of the people the operations of the government. This sys- 
tem is inconsistent with the character of our institutions, and 
is itself yielding gradually to a more enlightened public 
opinion, and to the power of a free press, which, by its 
broad dissemination of political intelligence, secures in ad- 
vance to the side of justice the judgment of the civilized 
world. An honest, firm, and open policy in our foreign 
relations would command the united support of the nation, 
whose deliberate opinions it would necessarily reflect. 

" Nothing is clearer in the history of our institutions than 
the design of the nation, in asserting its own independence 
and freedom, to avoid giving countenance to the extension 
of slavery. The influence of the small but compact and 
powerful class of men interested in slavery, who command 
one section of the country, and wield a vast political control 
as a consequence in the other, is now directed to turn back 
this impulse of the Revolution, and reverse its principles. 



364 APPENDIX. 

The extension of slavery across the continent is the object 
of the power which now rules the government ; and from 
this spirit, have sprung those kindred .wrongs in Kansas so 
truly portrayed in one of your resolutions, which prove 
that the elements of the most arbitrary governments have 
not been vanquished by the just theory of our own. 

" It would be out of place here to pledge myself to any 
particular policy that has been suggested to terminate the 
sectional controversy engendered by political animosities, 
operating on a powerful class banded together by a common 
interest. A practical remedy is the admission of Kansas 
into the Union as a free State. The South should, in my 
judgment, earnestly desire such consummation. It would 
vindicate its irood faith — it would correct the mistake of the 
repeal ; and the North, having practically the benefit of the 
ao'recment between the two sections, would be satisfied, and 
good feeling be restored. The measure is perfectly consist- 
ent with the honor of the South, and vital to its interests. 
That fatal act which gave birth to this purely sectional strife, 
originating in the scheme to take from free labor the country 
secured to it by a solemn covenant, cannot be too soon dis- 
armed of its pernicious force. 

" The only genial region of the middle latitudes left to the 
emigrants of the Northern States for homes cannot be con- 
quered from the free laborers, who have long considered it 
as set apart for them in our inheritance, without provoking 
a desperate struggle. Whatever may be the persistence of 
the particular class which seems ready to hazard every thing 
for the success of the unjust scheme it has partially effected, 
I firmly believe that the great heart of the nation, which 
throbs with the patriotism of the free men of both sections, 
will have power to overcome it. They will look to the rights 
secured to them by the constitution of the Union, as their 
best safeguard from the oppression of the class which — by a 
monopoly of the soil, and of slave labor to till it — might, in 
time, reduce them to the extremity of laboring upon the 



APPENDIX. 365 

same terms with the slaves. The great body of non-slave- 
holding freemen, including those of the South, upon whose 
welfare slavery is an oppression, will discover that the power 
of the general government over the public lands may be 
beneficially exerted to advance their interests and secure 
their independence. Knowing this, their suffrages will not 
be wanting to maintain that authority in the Union which is 
absolutely essential to the maintenance of their own liberties, 
and which has more than once indicated the purpose of dis- 
posing of the pubhc lands in such a way as would make 
every settler upon them a freehglder. 

" If the people intrust to me the administration of the 
government, the laws of Congress in relation to the Ter- 
ritories shall be faithfully executed. All its authority shall 
be exerted in aid of the national will to reestablish the peace 
of the country on the just principles which have heretofore 
received the sanction of the federal government, of the 
States, and of the people of both sections. Such a policy 
would leave no aliment to that sectional party which seeks 
its aggrandizement by appropriating the new territories to 
capital in the form of slavery, but would inevitably result in 
the triumph of free labor — the natural capital which con- 
stitutes the real wealth of this great country, and creates that 
intelhgent power in the masses, alone to be relied on as the 
bulwark of free institutions. 

" Trusting that I have a heart capable of comprehending 
our whole country, with its varied interests, and confident 
that patriotism exists in all parts of the Union, I accept the 
nomination of your convention, in the hope that I may be 
enabled to serve . usefully its cause, which I consider the 
cause of constitutional freedom." 

" Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

"J. C. Fremont." 



END. 



FKE-MONT. 

My Jirst is a thrlUing word ! 

Dearer than life to those, 
Within whose souls its spirit stirred, 
The call to toil and strife who heard, 
And who a martyr's grave preferred 

Tq serving foreign foes ! 

Bright on my second beams 

The early morning ray ! 
There the sun lingers long, and gleams, 
Like those that haunt us in our dreams 
Of glory, flash in fitful streams, 

As loth to pass away. 

My whole is a magic name ; 
Our over-arching skies, 
Our hiUs and valleys, shall proclaim 
Each to the other, all his fame. 
And bear it up, with loud acclaim. 
Where our free mountains rise. 

M. E. M. 
March 17, 1856. 



(366) 



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